I want to treat some TOHs just outside my fence. The largest one is roughly 12 ft tall and 6” around. I was going to do basal bark applications on smaller ones and hack and squirt on the large one, but I’m not sure if it’s too late to bother. The temps are high 60s to mid 70s during the day and high 40s at night. Too late and wait until next year or should I give it a try?

Another pile of prickly ash and honey suckle from my never ending battle with this property.

Did a foliar application yesterday of glyphosate but I’m wondering if my efforts were useless now? Most of the JKW looked like this. A little green but started yellowing. Had a freeze the day before and today.

Tried to apply earlier in the season but the flowers were a source for pollinators. It didn’t help that there were native white snakeroot below the JKW. Then there were weeks of strong winds and I was trying to avoid drift. Other thing is this area is in a wooded area with steep rock drops and coyotes.

Dense honeysuckle canopies suppress native ground-level vegetation through severe shading and allelopathy (releasing toxic chemicals that inhibit the growth of native seeds), as seen in the photo.

As the honeysuckle replaces deep-rooting native species, the bank is left completely exposed, leading to soil erosion into headwater streams.

If pulling large shrubs along streambanks, dirt stabilization and erosion control measures are needed to avoid severe soil erosion, while native plants develop to anchor the soil in place.

Last year these were confined to a small area , coming through the fence my neighbor and I share. This year, they are spreading wildly from both sides of my yard inward, taking over and strangling plants and trees. I am not able to keep up. Along with the potato vines are other smaller vines including Virginia creeper. What can I do?

Oleander aphids on my honey vine milkweed. At a distance, it looked like orange beaded rope, then I got up close and saw they were moving. Yuck.

I’m having a hard time figuring whether the worms I’m catching (using mustard water) are juvenile European species or one of the Asian jumping species. I’ve looked all over the net. Specifically:
1) I have caught some that I’m very sure are the Asian variety because of how they move, but I know they can get tired after a bit. Some have a discernible clitellum BUT some just don’t. Period.
2) It’s my understanding the two can inhabit the same soil? Is this true for a non-forested yard? Basically lawn and those annoying Chinese privets on the perimeter.
3) I can’t magnify close enough to see the number of hairs per segment, so that’s not a great way of figuring it out for me
4) how far down do the Europeans lay their eggs? Will I see their babies come up also if I do the mustard test?
5) do the babies look the same as European babies, aka short white strands?
6) what is the fastest, safest (cats and other animals come through the yard frequently), plastic free (preferably) way to kill them? I’m at a stage of my life that I don’t like to see suffering, even if it’s a super harmful being. It’s not their fault they’re here, that’s on us. Is vinegar the fastest way?

I’m just a regular degular lady trying to improve this property (even though it’s a rental and landscaping is the owner’s responsibility… sorry just venting). I don’t want to kill any less invasive worms if I can avoid it.
I’ve spent so much time trying to search for anatomical clues online. Please help a girl out.
Thank you!

Google says Duranta Erecta (golden dewdrop, gold mound) is not invasive in zone 7b north Alabama.

Is it invasive?

This stuff is really taking over.

How is honeysuckle impacting your property?

The bush honeysuckle are upright deciduous shrubs with long arching branches that commonly reach 6 to 20 feet tall. These plants are aggressive invaders of housing developments, parks, abandoned fields, roadsides, right-of-ways, woodland edges, and the interiors of open woodlands where they thrive in full sunlight and moderate shade.

The plant's ambitious growth mechanisms, shallow root exploitation, and dense shading systematically decimate the diversity and density of native seedlings, saplings, and herbaceous plants. As native plants are eliminated by honeysuckle, pollinators and other wildlife relocate to life supporting habitats.

ClearLand Ohio uses heavy equipment compact track loader (CTL) with attachments are used to pull mature bush honeysuckle instead of cutting them off at ground level. The removal process is a more impactful restoration approach. Pulling removes larger shrubs that are more likely to grow back quickly from the root crown and sprout new growth shoots from a network of runners.

Progress accelerates as we chop and pull the shrubs out of the ground. Removing vast amounts of plants will result in large areas of mulched soil that can be seeded or left to grow wild.

In summary, honeysuckle can be controlled given time and effort. If you are losing ground to these aggressive invaders, let's coordinate a time to create a plan of attack and takeback your property.

Moved into a new house and now that all the leaves are falling I'm realizing how much buck thorn is in my backyard, I've been pulling the small ones but I'm pretty sure these two massive ones are also buckthorn unless I'm totally wrong, they are surrounded by what I think is all buckthorn shoots, how do I remediate this large area best? MN, USA for reference.

Hi all,

I live in Germany and we have our fair share of invasive species. One I'm particularly invested in is the raccoon, because I live in an area important for amphibians, and seeing those getting decimated by raccoons is heartbreaking. I don't hate racoons, quite the contrary, they are fantastic animals, but they need to be removed, if possible.

Now there are some good hunting laws in place that make it easy to hunt them, but it's tedious to hunt them and most hunters don't use the meat/fur so many don't actively hunt for them.

Whenever there is some initiative that encourages hunters to hunt them (i.e. small financial compensation), so called "Animal Rights Activists" come in and do everything to stop the hunters. It starts with brigading comment sections of any news media that write about that topic, and very often leads to them making actual death threads to hunters that publicly say they hunt raccoons. They also actively tell people to damage any raccoon traps they find.

Those people seem fanatic and any attempt to reason are useless (at least as far as I have witnessed it).

Have you witnessed similar problems in your country/area? How do you deal with it? I don't know how big this group of people is, but I'm afraid they will ruin any chance to save the parts of nature that are threatened by invasive species.

Is this an Asian mantis and what's the impact for my native insects, assuming there's more next summer?

I have a Philly rowhome with a cement back patio - just purchased a few months ago. There’s an alley between my house and other rowhomes. A paper mulberry tree is rooted beneath the patio and is about 1.5-2 stories tall.

I know common method is hack and squirt herbicide so the tree dies and then remove. Logistically, I can’t wait for the tree to die and risk it damaging up to 4-5 properties should it fall.

Knowing this, what’s the best way to efficiently remove it so I can have a new patio put in without risk of new roots lifting the cement?

I live in Upstate, SC. (NW corner of the state) After hurricane Helene, people became scared of trees (including my husband!). Many just pushed over invasives which led to a massive invasion in my forest. I’ve been cutting and daubing these starting at the top section of my property and then going downhill. Despite going out at least 4 days/week since late August, there’s no way I can get finished before winter arrives. It’s absurd how many have I still haven’t treated. I know Fall is the best time, but will it help to treat these during the winter??

I want to eradicate stands of kudzu scattered about in residential areas. Cut&paint allowed but no spraying (and no goats).

Please offer contacts with experienced "kudzu killers" so we can discuss, contrast, and compare methods. I feel like I'm on my own because I'm encountering some old growth stands which seem to defy the methods described in Internet, utube, and AI sources.

I'm actually hoping there are enough of us kudzu hunters to start a subreddit. Anybody out there interested? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I have a very large tree of heaven that i hacked and squirted with glyphosate about 2 months ago. Most of the leaves died pretty quickly, but a quick hack into the bark still shows live tissue. I also have a few off shoot branches that seem to remain unharmed. (See photos. Most of what you see that is green at the top is a different adjacent tree; closer photo shows unharmed offshoots.)

Questions:
1. What now? Just wait? Repeat procedure?
2. This large tree hangs over structures on my property (and power lines). If I have the arborist come and just take off the large limbs but leave middle trunk for now am I still susceptible to it trying to come back with a vengeance? (What I don’t want is a large tree losing dead limbs over the next six months of winter if they are dying.)

Thank you!

Tree of Heaven is about 50 feet away on the other side of the house, mean this would be running through our entire foundation (the brick is our foundation skirt) The tree is on the neighbor’s property and on their side of the fence so i don’t have access to the tree itself. There are 2 large, mature trees. Used to be 3 but they cut one down last year without proper measures and the root suckers went crazy-literally hundreds spread into our yard. I’m so worried about the damage to our foundation and potential costs. Would they be liable at all? Thank you in advance!