r/smarthome • • Oct 05 '25

Home Assistant Introducing Post Flair

9 Upvotes

When posting, please set your flair according to what platform you're utlizing to make it easier to receive help. The system should now force it and won't let you post without selecting flair. Please reach out if there are missing options.


r/smarthome • • 5h ago

Home Assistant Making Home Assistant a professional alternative to Control4 (& other proprietary systems) for people who don't want to DIY

19 Upvotes

Hey everyone,

I've been following some of the discussions here about Control4, and have recently seen and had people reach out with some pretty crazy quotes from proprietary systems like this.

I'm one of the founders of Selora Homes, and I've commented on a few posts here, but I figured I'd share what we're building in case it's useful to anyone.

Our whole thesis is that there's a pretty big gap between Apple Home, Google Home, Alexa, etc., and professionally installed systems like Control4, Crestron, and Savant.

Home Assistant (HA) can fill that gap, but most people don't want to learn how to set it up, troubleshoot integrations, or maintain it themselves. Most homeowners don't know it exists.

We think you should be able to get all the benefits of HA with professional installation and ongoing support, without giving up control of your system, getting locked into proprietary hardware, or signing yourself up for a second job tinkering.

For example, I love what Home Assistant can do, and I'm a big believer in open source, but I don't particularly enjoy spending my weekends troubleshooting integrations, digging through GitHub repos, or figuring out why an automation stopped working. No hate on it, just not my thing.

We sell a smart hub we call the Selora Hub, which comes with HA and our own Selora OS preinstalled. Selora OS proactively monitors HA, including device and integration health, battery levels, etc.

The hub also comes preconfigured with secure remote access, Selora AI Local (a local model we trained specifically for HA), and an MCP connection. You can copy a URL into ChatGPT or Claude and start asking it to create automations, troubleshoot issues, or audit your system without manually setting everything up.

For example, my nephews stayed over the other night, and I wanted to adjust a nightlight so that if they got up during the night, a light in my bedroom would turn on to let me know so I could check on them. Rather than going through automations and figuring out the logic myself, I could just describe what I wanted from my phone.

You have the option to pay for a support plan or not, and if you did pay for a support plan and decided to not use it (or if we disappeared in five years) your home still works because it's all built on HA.

For someone who already has a bunch of smart devices, we can bring those together into one system and get them working with each other. And for someone who's already built a Home Assistant setup, we can take over the monitoring and support without asking them to start over.

Anyway, we're a small team and still figuring things out, but I wanted to share what we're working on since I've seen quite a few discussions here that touch on exactly this problem.

TL;DR: We're building Selora to make Home Assistant a professionally installed and managed alternative to Control4, Crestron, and Savant. Whether you're building a home, connecting devices you already own, or looking for support for an existing setup, you get an open, locally controlled system with AI tools, proactive monitoring, and real human support, without having to DIY everything or get locked into proprietary hardware.

Resources:
https://selorahomes.com/docs/
https://selorahomes.com/docs/roadmap/
https://gitlab.com/selorahomes


r/smarthome • • 11h ago

Homey Need alternatives! - Dashboard, homeview like, app, to turn my old iPhone into a smart home dashboard!

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9 Upvotes

Hey y'all!

I'm new here, but I am in need of some help, and I know peeps online are more knowledgeable than me on this matter!

I use HOMEY as a main hub for all my smart home stuff, but don't love their dashboards, so I am looking for a better app than the one I'm using now to, as its trying to now, give me this always on, home view like view, of some of my lights, AC, and stuff.

Must haves:

- support matter

- Support Spotify as a media input/search somehow

- preferably free

- Always on, dashboard like mode

- customizable within reason


r/smarthome • • 4h ago

Home Assistant Should a pet camera blur people's whole body or just the face? Would love your thoughts

2 Upvotes

Hi all, I’m Wonka, a product manager. We’ve been testing person blurring for a pet camera lately. A pet camera lives in home, so it’s going to catch people sometimes. For privacy, we want it to focus on pets only and blur anyone who walks into the frame, but we’re torn on whether that should cover people's whole body or just the face.

With face-only blur, you keep the body and movement, so the picture stays more complete and it’s less likely to block the pet when they’re interacting with you. Full-body blur protects privacy more thoroughly, since what people wear or do at home isn’t necessarily something they want on camera. But once the whole person is covered, it can also block the pet during close-up moments.

I know people care a lot about privacy these days, so I’d really like to hear what you think. Which would you prefer, and why? Or do you have any other suggestions?

Test screenshots are below.👇 Any comments are welcome, and I’d really appreciate them.


r/smarthome • • 2h ago

Amazon Alexa Alexa voice commands do not recognize my smart lights

1 Upvotes

I set up five Wiz smart bulbs in my basement. I have them grouped together as "Basement Lights". While I can control them individually or all at once physically with the Alexa app, Google Home, and the Wiz app, I cannot use voice commands through my Fire Stick to turn them off and on. Alexa says there is no group called Basement Lights despite it showing as such in the app. Any suggestions?


r/smarthome • • 4h ago

I don't have a smarthome platform Unable to add Thermostat to TC2.0 / Resideo

1 Upvotes

So, changed all my network equipment out today. Everything using Ubiquiti now. With that, I re-added all my devices to the wireless network.

The SSID and it's creds are identical, thermostat automatically gets connected. I go into TC2.0, it says device is offline. It's not, it's pinging, and showing network activity in Unifi.

I open the Resideo app, and it's showing up there and communicating.

I try to re-add it to TC2.0, because that's where several of my devices are, it pulls up the list where you choose Honeywell, Resideo, etc. I select Resideo. Put my username/pw in, and it says it's incorrect, but it's not, because I used those creds to sign in to the Resideo app a few moments ago.

I am lost, not sure if it's an app issue, sync issue on their back end, or what.


r/smarthome • • 9h ago

Apple HomeKit Nanoleaf 4D V2 Screen Mirror Zickzack Lightstrip Kit für TV kurzer Erfahrungsbericht

1 Upvotes

Kurzer Erfahrungsbericht, falls jemand mit dem Gedanken spielt, sich das zu holen. Die Installation war einfacher als gedacht und schnell erledigt. Man musste sie nicht mal über eine App einrichten um sie zu testen. Die Lichteffekte sehen für den Preis richtig cool aus. Besonders gut finde ich, dass man alles auch ganz unkompliziert mit der Fernbedienung steuern kann, ohne extra eine App öffnen zu müssen.
Ich bin echt zufrieden mit dem Nanoleaf 4D V2 und kann es nur weiterempfehlen.


r/smarthome • • 16h ago

Home Assistant Device choice advice

3 Upvotes

Hello everyone! I’m looking for some advice on choosing reliable devices for home automation.

I recently bought a house and would like to automate a few things. I currently have a smart home server (Home Assistant) that supports Wi-Fi and Zigbee. I'm looking for reliable leak detectors, door open/close sensors, carbon monoxide and smoke detectors, water shut-off valve actuators (or ready-made valve solutions), radiator thermostats, and temperature and humidity sensors.

I’d prefer to use equipment that is trusted by other users of similar systems.


r/smarthome • • 23h ago

I don't have a smarthome platform Dual lens cameras: I can't tell what the second lens actually does

4 Upvotes

Every camera I click lately has a dual lens version, two lenses on one body, and the price is always higher for reasons I can't pin down. The spec sheet mentions a wide view plus zoom, or a second sensor, or something, and after three product pages I still couldn't tell you what the second lens does for me. I have a real problem it might solve: the front yard has a wide driveway and a far corner, and my current single-lens cam handles neither well. So I'm trying to figure out whether the second lens is actually the fix for that, or just a spec I'd never notice. If you own one, what's the one situation where it earned its keep?


r/smarthome • • 9h ago

I don't have a smarthome platform I wanted the Star Trek computer in my house, so I built one — meet Ada and BM-01

0 Upvotes

I wanted the Star Trek computer in my house, so I built one.

Meet Ada, my always-available household AI, and BM-01, the physical “brain module” I just finished building for her.

This started a few months ago with a pretty simple idea:

Could I build something that feels less like Alexa and more like the computer from Star Trek?

Not just “turn on the lights.”

I wanted to walk into the room, say “Hey Ada,” have a normal conversation, interrupt her naturally, have her remember things, use tools, control the house, recognize the people who live here, survive reboots without babysitting, and generally feel like a computer that is part of the house rather than an app I'm opening.

It got a little out of hand.

https://ibb.co/album/SRMpN7

What Ada is now

Ada runs continuously on a dedicated Lenovo ThinkCentre M720q Tiny running Windows.

The current system includes:

  • GPT-Live for realtime voice conversation
  • ReSpeaker XVF3800 four-microphone array
  • dedicated USB speaker
  • local “Hey Ada” wake-word detection
  • separate local “Red Alert” detection
  • persistent household memory and separate lore memory
  • tool/function calling
  • direct local WiZ lighting control
  • Samsung TV control
  • weather, time, search, diagnostics, etc.
  • speaker recognition with a conservative “Unknown” fallback
  • Red Alert / All Clear household emergency states
  • a Flight Data Recorder for diagnostic events
  • remote administration over a private connection
  • Android controls
  • automatic startup/recovery after reboot
  • and now BM-01, a physical ESP32-based telemetry/diagnostic computer panel

Ada isn't a commercial product and this isn't a company.

It's basically one guy slowly discovering how many engineering problems are hiding inside the sentence:

“I want the Star Trek computer in my living room.”

The AI turned out not to be the hardest part

One of the biggest things I've learned is that getting an AI model to talk is relatively easy.

Making the whole system pleasant enough to actually live with is much harder.

Audio alone became an absurd rabbit hole.

Ada has to hear someone across a room, ignore normal household noise, deal with a television playing nearby, hear a person while she's speaking, know when she's being interrupted, and not wake up every time somebody on TV says something vaguely resembling “Hey Ada.”

At one point I discovered that the ReSpeaker XVF3800 exposes separate processed USB audio channels and Ada wasn't explicitly using its dedicated ASR channel.

Switching to it produced an immediate improvement.

I also tried energy thresholds, beam direction, moving the microphone, different Windows audio APIs, different gain structures, hardware AEC, software AEC, VAD tuning, interruption thresholds...

Turns out Patrick Stewart is remarkably good at convincing a home AI that he's part of the conversation.

Barge-in taught me a painful lesson

An early version used OpenAI's Realtime system and technically supported interruption.

Except interrupting Ada didn't work.

I spent a bunch of time looking at VAD, microphone echo, model settings, etc.

The actual problem?

My own speaker playback was blocking the asynchronous event loop.

The AI was perfectly capable of being interrupted.

My speaker code wasn't.

I replaced the blocking playback with a callback-driven audio queue.

Suddenly barge-in worked.

That was one of the first times this project taught me that the “boring” infrastructure around the model matters just as much as the model.

Then a simple experiment blew up the entire architecture

After spending a ridiculous amount of time improving the Realtime 2.1 audio stack, I built a clean GPT-Live/WebRTC sandbox in Chromium.

It was supposed to be an experiment.

Instead, my reaction was basically:

“Dude. That was night and day.”

Natural conversation was better.

Interruptions were better.

Simultaneous speech was better.

It felt dramatically closer to the experience I had actually wanted.

So obviously I decided to migrate the whole system.

And obviously that went terribly.

By then the mature version of Ada already had memory, wake detection, smart-home tools, speaker recognition, emergency behavior, remote administration, logging, startup/recovery logic, and a pile of other systems.

Several experimental LIVE builds could do pieces of that, but getting all of Ada back around the new conversational core was much harder than expected.

At one point the new system had even left most of Ada's historical memories behind.

Eventually I stopped trying to transplant the new conversational engine into the old architecture.

I reversed the strategy:

Keep the clean Live/WebRTC conversational core working, and rebuild Ada around it.

That became the modern LIVE branch.

Memory got weird too

Ada's original memory system basically dumped everything she knew into the prompt.

That obviously wasn't going to scale.

Then I tried keyword retrieval.

That worked until I asked the same question using different words.

Then I moved to semantic embeddings.

That worked much better until I asked:

“Why is the sky blue?”

and Ada's memory system decided that my saved memory:

“My favorite color is blue.”

might be relevant.

So memory eventually grew its own categories, semantic thresholds, query classification, cached embeddings, ADD/UPDATE/IGNORE behavior, stale-memory replacement, and limits on how much personal information can be retrieved into one conversation.

There's also a separate lore database because apparently my home computer needs to understand the difference between facts about my household and facts about fictional universes.

I regret nothing.

Wake words are currently my nemesis

“Hey Ada” sounds like it should be easy.

It is not.

The challenge isn't just recognizing it.

It's recognizing different people saying it naturally, from different parts of the room, while not waking because of television dialogue or random household noise.

One experimental detector combined an ONNX wake model, Silero speech detection, and cloud transcription for ambiguous candidates.

It was extremely sophisticated.

During one household test it generated 68 transcription requests in roughly six hours.

And Ada was still annoyingly difficult to wake.

So I removed it.

Later I found cases where the wake model itself was extremely confident but another part of the pipeline vetoed it.

One Red Alert candidate scored 0.954 and was still rejected because the downstream speech gate didn't have the evidence it wanted.

That eventually led to local high-confidence fallback logic.

I'm currently testing a completely different approach: a Microsoft Advanced Custom Keyword model trained specifically on “Hey Ada.”

But I'm not letting it control Ada yet.

It's running in shadow mode.

Ada's existing wake system still has complete authority. The Microsoft recognizer receives a copy of the same microphone stream and simply logs when it thinks I said Hey Ada.

The first real test logged four Microsoft detections and three actual ONNX wake events.

More interestingly, I had actually repeated “Hey Ada” several times because the existing system wasn't waking.

So Microsoft appears to have caught some legitimate attempts earlier.

Promising?

Yes.

Enough evidence to replace the current system?

Nope.

It needs much more real-house testing first.

Red Alert exists because of course it does

Ada also has a separate emergency mode.

Say:

“Red Alert.”

and she can enter a predefined emergency state, including changing the lighting and producing the appropriate alert behavior.

Say:

“All Clear.”

and the system restores the previous lighting state rather than just dumping everything back to some default.

I deliberately keep this path separate from ordinary conversational interpretation.

I don't particularly want an LLM pondering the philosophical meaning of “Red Alert” while I'm trying to activate Red Alert.

There's also a Flight Data Recorder that can preserve diagnostic information around important events.

Yes.

My living room AI has a flight recorder.

This is apparently where my life has gone.

BM-01

BM-01 is the newest piece and the reason I finally decided this project was worth posting.

Originally I just wanted Ada to have a physical computer panel inspired by the blinking displays from Star Trek: The Original Series.

Then I realized it could actually solve a real problem.

Ada has a lot of stages between:

“the PC has power”

and

“the computer is actually ready to hear me.”

Windows might be running while Ada isn't.

Ada might be running while the wake detector isn't ready.

The wake detector might work while GPT-Live is still connecting.

The microphone might fail while everything else appears fine.

Normally I have to open logs to figure out which layer is unhappy.

So BM-01 became a real physical diagnostic annunciator.

The upper panel contains 20 resin jewels arranged in four rows of five.

Each row contains four monitored systems plus one red master-fault annunciator.

AI / Conversation

GPT-Live
OpenAI/API
Conversation engine
Tools
AI FAULT

Audio

Wake detector
XVF3800 microphone
USB speaker
Barge/interruption
AUDIO FAULT

Ada Core

Ada core service
Memory
Flight Data Recorder
Red Alert
CORE FAULT

BM-01 / External

ESP32 controller
LD2410C mmWave radar
BH1750 ambient-light sensor
External services
BM FAULT

The regular lighting isn't random.

I wanted it to resemble the electromechanical blinking of the original TOS computer panels rather than modern RGB rainbow effects.

So the ESP32 runs deterministic timing groups with different periods and phases, roughly inspired by mechanical cam/SPDT switching.

It looks complicated and irregular, but the pattern is deterministic.

Actual telemetry overrides it.

If the microphone fails, for example, the MIC jewel abandons its normal pattern and rapidly flashes.

At the exact same time, the red AUDIO FAULT jewel flashes in perfect synchronization.

If multiple systems in that bank fail, all of their jewels synchronize with the same red master fault.

I tested the complete path by injecting a simulated XVF3800 failure.

MIC + AUDIO FAULT immediately began flashing together.

When the fault cleared, both returned to the normal TOS animation.

That was probably one of the most satisfying tests in the entire project.

BM-01 also has an LD2410C mmWave radar and a BH1750 ambient-light sensor.

The lux sensor automatically adjusts the panel brightness.

The radar provides local presence information that I can eventually use for more context-aware behavior.

And importantly, the telemetry system has an UNKNOWN state.

If Ada doesn't have enough evidence to prove a subsystem is healthy, BM-01 doesn't just pretend everything is fine.

Right now some of the 16 monitored systems still need deeper health instrumentation.

That's unfinished work.

I'd rather have a light say “I don't know” than build a diagnostic panel that confidently lies to me.

Things that failed along the way

A non-exhaustive list:

  • keyword memory retrieval
  • blindly dumping all memories into every prompt
  • Windows robot TTS
  • blocking audio playback
  • several barge-in approaches
  • assuming USB audio device numbers stay put
  • accidentally using the wrong processed microphone channel
  • energy-based TV rejection
  • direction-of-arrival TV rejection
  • physically moving the microphone
  • several wake thresholds
  • a hilariously overcomplicated wake verifier
  • parts of the Realtime 2.1 audio architecture
  • several LIVE migration attempts
  • incomplete historical-memory migration
  • Windows trying to autostart an obsolete copy of Ada
  • an AI tool wrapper that turned out not to be callable like an ordinary Python function
  • a malformed Python docstring that somehow left my smart bulbs permanently red
  • a smart-light group/device naming collision that made one porch bulb look broken
  • an early BM-01 layout that was simply the wrong size
  • Windows batch syntax being defeated by a parenthesis in a status message

I've learned more from that list than from most of the things that worked immediately.

The current architecture, very roughly

Voice:

XVF3800
↓
local wake / emergency detection
↓
Chromium/WebRTC audio path
↓
GPT-Live
↓
Ada tools / memory / household services
↓
USB speaker

Household services:

Ada
├── persistent memory
├── separate lore
├── WiZ lighting
├── Samsung TV
├── weather/search/time
├── diagnostics/FDR
├── Red Alert / All Clear
├── remote administration
└── BM-01 telemetry

BM-01:

Ada/Windows health data
↓
Windows telemetry/serial bridge
↓
ESP32
├── 20-jewel diagnostic panel
├── LD2410C radar
└── BH1750 lux sensor

The ESP32 handles the normal TOS animation locally. Ada does not waste network/model traffic telling 20 lights when to blink.

She only needs to report actual state.

What's next?

Ada isn't finished, and I don't think she ever really will be.

Immediate work is mostly:

  • finishing the Microsoft-vs-ONNX wake-word comparison
  • improving speaker recognition
  • expanding trustworthy BM-01 telemetry
  • continuing to improve interruptions/audio behavior
  • cleaning up some remaining diagnostics

Longer term, I want to build remote modules around the house.

BM-01 becomes the central computer.

The remote modules become terminals.

Which means there is a very real possibility that this ends with multiple Star Trek computer panels installed around my house.

I'm okay with that.

Biggest lesson so far

The AI model is not the hard part.

Making an AI live in a house is the hard part.

Audio ownership matters.

Turn ownership matters.

Memory relevance matters.

Startup and recovery matter.

Knowing whether a tool actually executed matters.

Knowing whether your microphone silently changed device numbers matters.

Knowing whether your diagnostic system actually knows something is healthy matters.

And testing something for five minutes at a desk is absolutely not the same thing as letting your family live with it for a week.

Probably the biggest design lesson Ada has taught me is:

A complicated solution isn't automatically a better solution.

I spent months engineering the old audio path.

A clean WebRTC experiment kicked its ass.

I built an elaborate wake verifier.

It made Ada harder to wake.

I designed more elaborate BM-01 layouts.

The actual physical hardware told me what the layout needed to be.

So my development process at this point is basically:

Build it. Measure it. Put it in the house. Let reality break it. Keep what survives.

That's Ada.

And apparently I live on a starship now.


r/smarthome • • 21h ago

SmartThings Can't connect to dehumidifier

0 Upvotes

Hi all,

I have a dehumidifier which should be connected via a 2.5 Ghz network. My network is an MLO 2.5, 5, 6 network and my app states that not all clients will connect. I also can't connect 2.5 Ghz Sonos via this network.

Am I correct in thinking that I either need to switch my network over to a 2.5Ghz only (not MLO), or change out the dehum to a 5Ghz version?

Thanks in advance!


r/smarthome • • 2d ago

Home Assistant I think I found the solution to Linus Tech Tips' HDMI-CEC problem

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581 Upvotes

Linus Tech Tips has repeatedly highlighted HDMI-CEC as one of the things separating gaming PCs from proper living-room consoles. In their DIY Steam Machine video, they struggled with external CEC adapters, and in a WAN Show episode, Linus mentioned that they were sourcing practically every CEC adapter they could find to finally solve the problem.

I think the tiny open source HDMI-CEC controller shown above offers a much more compelling alternative.

The trick is to keep HDMI-CEC completely separate from the PC's video signal.

Rather than sitting between the PC and TV, it's a standalone HDMI-CEC controller and monitor. It can both send commands and listen to HDMI-CEC traffic.

As shown in the video, mine is plugged into an unused HDMI port on my AV receiver, with USB power from the receiver. It could just as easily use a spare HDMI port on the TV, as long as it's on the same CEC bus.

The gaming PC stays connected exactly as before. The dongle communicates over the HDMI-CEC control line, independently of the video signal.

That means:

  • No HDMI passthrough — no limitations on 4K/120Hz, HDR, VRR, etc.
  • No additional video latency.
  • No requirement for HDMI-CEC support in the GPU or motherboard.
  • Full CEC control and monitoring over Wi-Fi, using ESPHome.

And it's not limited to turning the TV on and off. It can also send commands to select the gaming PC's HDMI input, control other CEC devices, and react to messages on the CEC bus.

The interesting part is how you could automate it.

For example:

  • Gaming controller wakes PC → TV turns on and switches to the correct HDMI input. The PC could trigger this with a simple HTTP request to the ESP32 when it wakes up.
  • TV switches to the gaming input → PC wakes up. The dongle could detect the relevant CEC message and trigger Wake-on-LAN.
  • PC goes to sleep → TV turns off. Or you could monitor the PC's network presence and trigger CEC commands when its status changes.

There are countless possibilities, depending on your setup. You could use HTTP, MQTT, Home Assistant, or ESPHome automations. For the simplest PC-controlled setup, a couple of HTTP requests would be enough — no Home Assistant or MQTT broker required.

One important detail: the dongle needs continuous power if you want it to wake the TV. It consumes very little power, but you shouldn't power it from a TV or PC USB port that turns off in standby. My receiver's USB port stays powered even when the receiver is off, which makes it perfect for this.

Of course, HDMI-CEC commands vary somewhat between manufacturers, but I've been using this setup for years, and in my experience it's extremely reliable once you've identified the commands your TV responds to. For example, the project README includes power-on examples for Samsung (0x04), LG (0x0D) and Sony (0x44, 0x6D).

Full credit to Stéphane Lepin, who developed the HDMI-CEC component that makes this possible.

My goal was simply to make the hardware as compact and inexpensive as possible, while keeping the finished result clean and unobtrusive. Using an ESP32-C3 SuperMini and a tiny HDMI connector, I put together the little dongle and designed a 3D-printable enclosure for it as shown in the video. The complete device costs only a few dollars in parts.

Below is a video of what's inside. It's essentially just the ESP32-C3 SuperMini and an HDMI connector. You can build it either with a male HDMI plug for direct connection or a female HDMI socket for use with a regular HDMI cable.

https://reddit.com/link/1xel2rn/video/bgtrncublhxh1/player

Links:

If anyone has tried something similar with a DIY Steam Machine I'd be interested in hearing how you automated it — especially the gaming-controller-to-PC-to-TV startup sequence.

P.S. If your TV or projector supports local IP control (power, input selection, and status reporting), you obviously don't need HDMI-CEC for any of this, and therefore no HDMI-CEC controller either. You would probably still need some software, such as Home Assistant, running on always-on hardware to coordinate actions between devices.

In my case, my Samsung TV drops off the network when powered off, and my PlayStation, which I always shut down completely, can't be powered on over IP either. HDMI-CEC solves both problems for me.

My Denon and previous Onkyo AVRs, on the other hand, have excellent IP control — but that doesn't solve the limitations of my TV and PlayStation.


r/smarthome • • 1d ago

Google Home Looking for a change in smart speakers

4 Upvotes

Right now, we have an older Google smart speaker in our living room, and a Nest Hub in the bedroom. I'm increasingly disappointed with their performance (each is about 3-4 years old).

We used to have Alexa Echos and were pretty satisfied with them, but since we use Google services (Gmail, Calendar, Drive, etc) we decided to integrate with Google products.

I'll admit, the sound quality is better with their speaker, so I guess I wanted to ask which smart speaker do you recommend that has a good (especially low end) sound quality for a decent price?

I use Hubspace for most of my integration, and only use the speakers to ask them to play music from my Pandora/Spotify account or ask about the weather/boring stuff (I'm older and prefer reading over listening to a lot of things).

I'm open to Amazon products again, but wanted to see what the larger community suggest.

Thanks!


r/smarthome • • 1d ago

Home Assistant Hue motion sensor flush in the ceiling - printed gimbal mount you can aim, no screws

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20 Upvotes

My old printed holders for the Hue motion sensors never sat right in the ceiling, so I designed a recessed mount that works like a GU10 spot gimbal.

  • Fits an 83 to 84 mm hole in drywall (9.5 to 25 mm boards)
  • 3 printed parts: mounting ring with spring arms, ball with a pocket for the sensor, clamp ring
  • The spring arms pull the 100 mm flange tight against the ceiling, no screws or glue
  • The ball tilts about 15 degrees each way and rotates, and stays where you aim it
  • Printed in PETG without supports, about 1.5 h and 47 g for a set
  • Battery change: pull the whole unit down, swap the batteries, push it back in. The aiming stays

Made for the indoor sensor (the square 55 mm one). Happy to answer questions.


r/smarthome • • 1d ago

Apple HomeKit All smart devices disconnected from WIFI

7 Upvotes

I have a weird issue happening. I have no internet issue or problem with WIFI at home but ALL my smart devices are acting up. This includes LG appliances, blueair, myq, ecobee, tapo, smart lights. Funnily enough wyze is fine as it connects through its extender. The hue is fine as it connects through its hub. I already power cycled my router and modem. Id rather not start factory resetting and reconfiguring things. Suggestions on troubleshooting steps since this seems to be pervasive across multiple applications and devices. At some point i was able to recover ecobee but now it keeps hanging on connecting.

Updates after a second router reboot:

  1. MyQ - Solved itself
  2. Blueair - Solved itself
  3. LG - Solved itself
  4. Tapo - Solved itself
  5. Ecobee - reset it twice to reconnect
  6. Treatlife - 3 of 4 lights solved themselves. 4th refuses to reconnect
  7. Ecovacs (Deebot) - reset it twice to reconnect

r/smarthome • • 1d ago

I don't have a smarthome platform Air Quality Sensors

4 Upvotes

Thought my experience might be helpful to someone.
I've been looking around at cheap sensors that I can connect to my system (currently on smartthings, planning to try ha again, but ST with the advanced web interface accepting JSON code rules, I can do most of what I need).

I've narrowed down my search to 2 devices I thought were the cheapest
Ikea Alpstuga - better approval factor, heard it's good enough, still less accurate sensors, plug and play matter over thread, very cheap for what it can do.
And
M5Stack Air Quality Kit v1.1 with M5StampS3A (SEN55, SCD40) - adds VOC and a more accurate NDIR CO2 sensor, has a port that allows to add more sensors (although screen won't show them natively), but takes more messing around to set up with ESP32-S3 being wifi (needs HA / other / bridge to smartthings / custom matter over wifi firmware), costs double and read it has a self heating issue causing T&RH readings to be unreliable.

I went with the Ikea device as it was much easier and quicker for me to get, and cheaper so I got 2 of them and placed one outside.
Unfortunately it also has a T&RH heating issue skewing the measurements and found it to be off by as much as ~1.5 degrees C hotter at times compared to a kitchen thermometer.
I tried to put it on the inlet of an air purifier just to see how it affects the readings, it fixed Temp reading, at least down to ~0.4C difference if not better, but understandably gave wrong CO2 and PM2.5 readings.
If you do choose to buy it, consider that you'd have to place it in a spot with a more passive airflow and out of sunlight to get a closer to true temp reading.

Otherwise, if you're looking for a cheap solution like I did, I'd go with either the M5Stack device and plug in an extra T&RH sensor (or even more with the appropriate Grove connector), or better yet if you got the time and means, go even more DIY.

If anyone has a product I should check out, would appreciate you letting me know.


r/smarthome • • 2d ago

Home Assistant Motorized faders for house lights, with a snap mode for non dimmable lights

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370 Upvotes

This is a console I'm building to control the lights in my house: four motorized faders, a knob, four preset keys and a small screen.

  • The knob switches between banks of lights: living room, kitchen, wherever. Each fader gets assigned to a light or a group of lights.
  • The faders follow the lights. Dim a light from a switch and its fader moves to match.
  • The buttons on the left are for presets (morning, evening, etc.).
  • It works with Home Assistant and I'm adding Lutron native support too.

The video shows snap mode. I needed a solution for lights that can't be dimmed, like those on smart plugs, where a fader that slides freely would feel wrong. In snap mode the motor resists as you push, then gives way and drives the fader to the other end, like a wall switch. There's no spring or detent in the fader. It's just the motor.

Happy to answer questions about how it works or how it talks to Home Assistant / Lutron.

I post build updates on YouTube and Instagram(@sacrebleu.studio) if you want to follow along.


r/smarthome • • 1d ago

Home Assistant Rant regarding smart light switches and help please!!

1 Upvotes

I am looking for a reliable smart light switch in the UK. I used to have Fibaro switches linked with Smartthings, they go behind the lightswitch and can still use dumb switch. Over time they either died or lost connection to the hub.

Next I thought I found the answer using the Sonoff Smart light switch, they were reasonably priced and have an option for up to 3 gang. Thought I have found the answer, have generally been reliable and dont lose connection, but after 5 months 2 have died!

We are start a build for a new house and i want to be able to find a solution for this., I have heard Shelley is an option but they remind me of the Fibaro and they lost connection. Any other suggestions? Neutral wire not an issue as will be a new build. But want something reasonably priced as will have a lot switches to buy!


r/smarthome • • 1d ago

Google Home Looking for a smart speaker recommendation for my bathroom

2 Upvotes

Hi everyone!

I've been happy with my Mobvoi TicHome Mini for controlling and playing music while I'm taking a shower. However, since Google moved from Google Assistant to Gemini, it no longer works as it used to.

What alternatives are you using, and what would you recommend?

I'm mainly looking for a smart speaker that lets me control and play music by voice while I'm in the shower. It needs to be suitable for use in a bathroom, where it can handle humidity and occasional splashes of water.

What are you using, and what would you recommend?


r/smarthome • • 1d ago

Apple HomeKit Light switch for lamps

1 Upvotes

I have two Leviton light switches in 4 bedrooms and one of them controls the fan which also has a built in light.

The other switch does not control anything, checked all outlets.

Best guess from myself and others is that the plan when the house was built was to have one switch control the fan and the other switch to control the light but that was not needed for the fan they purchased.

I have two lamps that I want to figure out best solution to turn them on especially for guests.


r/smarthome • • 2d ago

I don't have a smarthome platform Advice needed! Trying to swap new slim wafer lights for my old Hue retrofit can lights, but the new house has zero cans.

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11 Upvotes

Quick note on the photos: Photos 1 to 4 show what we are running into with the current ceilings, junction boxes, and insulation mess, while the last few photos show the old retrofit lights and box from our previous house.

Hey everyone, feeling a bit defeated and could use some advice. We just moved into a new place and I really want to use my existing Philips Hue smart lights (I have around 23 Hue downlights total from our old house, plus three 6 inch Hue slim canless lights that could technically work, but our new ceilings have 4 inch holes). It feels completely insane that I wont be able to use my lights.

The problem? Every single ceiling in this house is wired with ultra thin, canless wafer lights that connect to a remote metal junction box. There are no traditional metal cans anywhere in the ceilings. To make matters worse, the previous owner had crazy paint colors on the ceilings so we already had to get them all repainted and I completely forgot about the lights until now.

When my husband tried pulling one down, it tore up some drywall around the edge and loose insulation is packed right up around the boxes, so it immediately spills out and makes a massive mess everywhere. I honestly dont remember it being this messy when we installed our can lights at our old house, but taking just one down here made me completely second guess what kind of project this would actually turn into.

Is there any way to make our old lights work, or am I just opening up a can of worms here? Is there any workaround without cutting open all our newly painted ceilings to install metal cans or even cutting larger holes to fit those three 6 inch slim lights, or am I just shit out of luck and forced to buy a mountain of super expensive Hue 4 inch Slim Canless versions instead and try to resell what I have?

Honestly, is it even worth the hassle, or is it completely dumb to try and tackle this right now? Im only weighing it because some rooms are still empty and my painters have to come back this week to do another room, but after seeing how much mess that packed insulation makes, Im worried if I do this later on it will be more of a mess with furniture in the rooms. Any advice is appreciated!


r/smarthome • • 1d ago

I don't have a smarthome platform CREATE Windcalm Sync

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0 Upvotes

Hello Guys,

For about 2 Hours now, i tried connectinh this Ceiling Fan from CREATE to the Create App. Even tried Tuya and Smart Life. Nothing.
I try to klick the 1h and 2h Button, the 1H alone. The 1h and 4h which is labeled in the Manual.
Absolutely nothing.

Thanks in Advance!


r/smarthome • • 2d ago

Aqara Aqara G3: sound an alarm only if a pet sticks around for 20 seconds?

2 Upvotes

I have an Aqara G3 camera in my kids’ playroom. I want it to detect an animal, check that it stays there for 20 seconds, then play an audible alarm through the camera. Dog keeps chewing up books!

The key is that if the pet walks away before those 20 seconds are up, nothing happens. A simple delay after detection wouldn’t do it.

I found “Animal detected” as a trigger in Aqara Home, but the only secondary conditions for the camera seem to be on/off. Am I missing a setting? Anyone managed to get this working?


r/smarthome • • 2d ago

SmartThings Help with older smart lights

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2 Upvotes

Hello! I have moved into a house that has some older LED smart lights, ive identified the brand (SMRT light) but apparently the app to control them is out of date, I managed to download the app on a older cellphone but when I try to connect to the lights it just will not connect through some googling ive found that these lights run on the 2.4g wifi and my house only has the 5g.

Is there anyway I can actually make these lights work? Or should I just replace them? I was hoping to have them working for a halloween party i am throwing


r/smarthome • • 2d ago

Home Assistant Recessed lights + smart switche recommendation

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0 Upvotes

I'm planning on adding 4 recessed lights to this room. I like yellow lighting and my wife likes bright white so I need something which we can change.

Based on me looking around I've decided to get the govee 4 inch slim smart recessed lights so that I can adjust the color to my preference. I'll be pairing them with an inovelli switch. To further complicate this setup I have a 3 way switch here for the lights so I've also ordered the inovelli auxillary switches for the other two switches.

Just need confirmation that I have this right. Also if anyone has better light suggestions I'm all ears