This was my very first watercooled rig I made in this handmade walnut case I designed and built in my shop.

Drew it out on some scratch paper and kind of went from there once I had the case mock up for the parts I was using. Turned out really nice in the end.

Got this idea from “Handy Dandy Brandy”

Made a couple of these charcuterie boards for us and some family members. I used birch, mahogany and yellow heart for the mustard. Speaking of the mustard, I made a quick pattern in Fusion 360 and printed it as a template to use with a router and inlay bushing kit.
I know they’re pretty simple but we get a lot of comments on them. Definitely a conversation piece!

We were gifted this beautiful vase but it's extremely delicate, so I made a display case for it. Cherry, with a shellac finish.
Here's a build album with all the steps: https://imgur.com/a/ybaaQBM

Just got back from Bohnhoff Lumber in LA with my last ever load before they close at the end of the week. Very sad time for the community.

And since they don’t deliver any more, I figured I could get it all in the car (checked for 8’ depth before I went to pick it up!). This is 280 bf of white oak (35% off). Thought I might pick up a couple more things and then I thought about how much I was already pushing my luck.

Anyway, curious to hear (and see pics) of the most wood you’ve hauled without the benefit of a truck bed!

Any reason why my replication of hacksmans sliding book shelf design is binding up? Is the horizontal distance between my trolleys too close? 12x2/-1/4 shelf for reference. Pics in comments

I decided to update the top of my mudroom counter.
Design took a while because i didnt want it to look too simple. I didnt want to do melamine, so decided to paint mdf and learn something.
Veneering white oak was certainly one of the more stressful part of this build. I paid way way too much because i decided this should be an open budget project to see if i can make something of the highest quality. Im happy with what came out of it. Ill certainly set a cap on a build next time.

Walnut and ash leftover from other projects. Donated this to the Tool Library in Baltimore for their upcoming fundraiser raffle (link forthcoming). Floating splines in the legs (with pin nails to be sure), dowels on the cross beams. Wedged dowels on the top because I wanted it to float above the table. No, they're not tapered. Yes, that would have been better. I held them in place from below with some 18Ga nails up through the dowel into the top to be sure. No, it is not going to literally explode from wood movement.

And band-aid because it's fun.

Some build pics in there too - happy to take any questions.

Made with scraps of mahogany, thermory ash, walnut, white oak, tavara colorada, pine, cherry and some sort of squiggly oak. Finished with Danish oil.

I inherited my grandfather’s desk, it’s something I always wanted for 30 years

And now that I finally have it, I cannot figure out how to open the drawers.

There’s no obvious keyhole and I don’t understand how it’s locked

The middle drawer opens and is not locked, but the two side cabinet drawers are locked.

There a medallion in the middle drawer that says “Leopold Desk”

I scrolled back several days in this sub to see if this had been posted and didn’t see it. My apologies in advance if it’s a repost!

https://www.humblebundle.com/books/woodworking-turning-and-carving-an-encore-by-taunton-press-abrams-books

Humble Bundle has a bunch of woodworking books available, and it seemed like others might want to know about them.

So I got a clean looking planer off the eBay and I'm learning my way around it. I never used a hand planer before, and first thing when I try to roll, there wasn't anything coming out from the planer. So I just played around and now I could able to get some shavings. After a few swipes I thought I was doing good but the result was like the first img I've sent. So I tried to shave leaning the other way and now I've shaved towards the other way. Feels like until I'm just gonna end up shaving the whole timber to get a 90 degree. What am i doing wrong?

After a couple of months of whatever spare time I could find over weekends, my latest build is finally finished... a modern wardrobe designed for a friend's kid's bedroom. Wanted to make it a bit playful with some fun pops of cobalt blue for the clothes rail mounts, drawer pulls, and on the door, and chose a deep earthy red for the inside & back which turned out super nice. Left the shelves open so they can put their LEGO on display.

Built out of white oak veneered birch plywood with plain birch for the drawer boxes, back panel and underneath the drawers. Lot of challenges in this one: routing out space for the blue inserts, hanging the door with 3 hinges, and doing all the calculations for getting the undermounted drawers installed in the right spot (always lots of fun...). Finished the whole thing with hardwax oil.

Finally upgrading my dust collection in the shop. Coming from 15-year-old harbor freight heavily modified unit. At the hard is 5 horsepower cyclone. Figured if I'm upgrading going to do all the bells and whistles. Added bucket for easy fine dust removal, filter Shaker with timer, remote control and full dust drum sensor and alarm. Ductwork almost complete. Just waiting on couple of gates and to finish printing all the couplings from the holes to the door. All connections will be magnetic.

A few pictures of the chessboards my 1-day marquetry students made, from pre-drawn designs. We use a laser, and although they are always very satisfied I feel like it leaves little space for personalization.

Any idea how to make it more personal ? The whole thing has to be done in 7 hours.

Hi, I'd like to build a console table with similar corner features (inner and outer roundovers). I'm looking for advice on the process. Here's what I'm thinking so far:

- The panels would be about 20mm (3/4 in thick)

- I'd like the roundover to be continuous along the depth of the piece (not just a separate trim detail)

- Therefore the corners would be separate pieces, inner radius about 25mm (1 in), outer radius 45mm (1 and 3/4). The radii do not need to be precise, but I would say at least 25mm inner radius for desired effect.

I can think of 2 ways to prepare the corner pieces, both would produce a cove for 2 corners, and then the piece would be ripper in half

Option 1: Cove cut on a table saw. Start with a piece twice the width of a corner (basically 2 corners). Cut a cove by slowly raising the blade height. Once desire cove depth is achieved, rip the piece in half to produce 2 corner pieces. I've experimented with cove cutting before, so I would be comfortable performing this. But I'm having difficulties estimating the temporary fence angle, as well as figuring out what sort of diameter cove would be produced (I guess using smaller blade would be better?)

Option 2. Again start with 1 wider piece, but cut the cove with a router bit on a router table, slowly raising the cut height. I am a bit concerned of using a bit this large, and I currently only have much smaller router bits.

Is there anything that I'm missing? Any easier way to achieve this?

For the outer roundover I'm thinking of this gluing on the parts, then marking the roundover with a pencil, and using electric planer / belt sander / orbit sander until the even thickness is reached.

Made from 10 segments and then cove cut on a tablesaw. Hand sanded and hand plane to blend everything together. I need to get a glass insert for it to hold water right now we just use a coke bottle with the top cut off to hold water.

Hey guys, thought you may like this. It's your garden style Shoji lamp, but a great learning exercise for me as I progress through my Kumiko journey. I started with the basics six years ago but put it down when my daughter was born. Now that I've picked it back up, I swore to myself I'd finish a lamp by Christmas.

Here is my prototype just playing around, but it came out better than I expected. There are some flaws but relatively well hidden. Things I learned: 1 - belt sanders just don't go with fine woodworking. 2 - Tolerances need to be real tight, like 1/32" tight or better to keep things square and pretty. The lamp measures 14 inches high and is designed with the golden ratio in mind, and small errors get amplified over longer distances.

The frame was made with my Dewalt table saw and planed down to final dimensions with a planing jig. The kumiko is all cut by hand with angle jigs.

Hope you enjoy!

Discovered some white oak I recently purchased in Portland, Oregon is likely infested with the Mediterranean oak borer bug.

The supplier is saying cut off the sap wood and they won’t eat any of the heartwood.

What do y’all think? Should I push for replacement or a refund? It looks like 1-2 boards.

Edit: the Mediterranean oak borer bug leaves black stains around their holes. My situation does not have black staining.

my first thought is to fill the structure with pegs, remove the nails. use slightly bigger tack nails. reinforce with wood glue. what do you guys think? the bench has sentimental value, so I would like to preserve it if possible.

My first real woodworking project, a chessboard. Padauk, Purple Heart, and Peruvian walnut. Mistakes were made, but I’ll learn from them going forward. I also made this with a good friend of mine since he has more tools than I. It was a shared effort and we got to learn together. I made this to go with the chess pieces hand carved following a u/JohnnyTheLayton tutorial.

First, we started with 4 foot boards. I knew I wanted pieces to be a little less than 1.25 inches to account for blade kerf. So of course we set the table saw to exactly 1.25inches. That was then chopped into 4 pieces and glued alternating Purple Heart, padauk. As you can guess, we ended up with only 3 of each type of wood to proper length of 12 inches and had to cut one more strip of each.

Once we glued those and cut across the alternating colors and cut the rows, we ended up with 7 good rows. The remaining row was much too small for the blade kerf. The last row we made by cutting individual squares and glueing those together.

During all of the glue ups, we placed a little bit of salt on the glue joints, hoping to keep it from sliding while we glued to keep the seams aligned. As you may be able to see, some of the salt didn’t dissolve and I ended up with some viable gaps.

To handle this, we cut down each edge again on the table saw, which means the outside edges are all a little less than 1.25 inches.

Next, we cut 4 pieces of the walnut to size. Naturally, we made the same mistake as when we started and ripped down the length of the 4 foot board and ended up with again 3 proper sized edge pieces. We cut a fourth at the proper size.

After mitering (? Is that the word?) the edge banding, we glued them in a 90 degree clamp, two at a time. Then we placed the two glued edges onto the edge of the board for the final glue up.

Next, I sanded, maybe not enough. Started at 80 grit, then 120, 220, and 320. For the last two grits I would wipe with a damp cloth to clean off some of the sawdust and let it dry slightly then sand again.

Then I chamfered the edge, sanded the edge with block sanders (220, 320). Cleaned as much sawdust as I could with compressed air and a tack cloth and did just one coat of tung oil.

This was done with a good friend, as a gift for a different good friend and I thoroughly enjoyed the whole process. I’m looking forward to taking what I’ve learned forward into whatever my next project is.

Hi all! I made this coffee table, but looking to determine what type of caulk to use between the tile and wood. I’ve already grouted the tile onto cement backboard (not sealed yet) but worry that if I use the same grout it’ll crack with time - hence silicone. But then it won’t look the same. Any suggestions?

Anybody else noticed over the last five years that finding a woodworking magazine in an airport shop has become an exceedingly rare event?

It used to be my favorite thing about taking a flight, picking up the magazine to read on the way.

Nowadays, if I don’t bring it with me, then I don’t have one. Obviously, they must not have been selling, which is a bummer. People going digital, and a decline in the strength of the hobby to blame I suppose.

I did epoxy to fill in an area and the board wasn’t flat so a large amount spilled to the left. I sanded it flat, installed the board, and then sanded everything again. As you can see there is still epoxy in that spot. Should I try to sand it down more or just call it and try to match it (if so any suggestions). This is red oak that is unfinished and sanded up to 220.