My green and black filament was bambu pla,

Gold was Silk from overture.

Any recommendations or advice on how to fix this. One side came out good, other side came out very rough. The black was supposed to be full shape as well.

Thanks

Overnight print, 14 hours, could it be the falling temperature of the room?

Prusa Mk3 i3
0,4 nozzle
Filament unknown 😬

Bambu lab A1 - I have had this printer for a while and have about 1500 print hours with no issues whatsoever. As of a week or so, every print comes out with these lines. I have made the picture as extreme as possible but these lines are visible and compromise every print I do.

I sliced in orca, used bambu lab Matte PLA - multiple spools different colours, which again, have historically worked perfectly for me.

When you run your finger along the hull you will also feel the rough texture as opposed to a somewhat smooth surface as I am used to. On the voron cubes the same thing takes place and there I find the top is also rougher than usual.

I thought it could be fillament, but I got a new spool out of its packaging and I store all of my filament in dry boxes with silica in there. I then thought maybe tuning the filament manually would be worth a shot. Running calibration prints for flow rate, pressure advance etc. but this did nothing and prints still turn out the same.

I also thought there could be something out of alignment with the mechanical components of the printer so I took it apart as far as I could and looked up some videos about tensioning the belt and aligning the X axis with the bed. The left side seemed about 2mm lower than the right so I fixed that, but to no avail.

I have done nothing crazy with the printer, I have run the calibration sequence a million times but this obviously did nothing. The build plate is also not bent or anything and I tried a different one.

I figure there has to be something off or loose in the printer itself which is causing this effect but also looking around online I cannot really find a clear source for "hey it is this for sure". So I am turning to you guys to see if anyone can maybe recognize this and knows of a possible fix. I am losing my mind a little bit.

Thanks in advance!

Why did this show up with holes.

I have gold silk from overture,

White, green, black pla from bambuu.

The desgin was faced up - away from plate .

Hi all, i'm trying to print a custom gantry (https://www.printables.com/model/1841711-centauri-carbon-1-and-2-improved-x-y-gantry-blocks) for my CC2 with Elegoo ASA but i'm experiencing lot of problem in the overhangs.

I'm using the project settings and i tried to use:

1. 255/260/265 °C
2. 0.12 layer height (as per project suggestion)
3. sport/default/silent mode
4. 0/5% model fan
5. 40/80% model fan on overhang
6. 39°C chamber
7. 110 °C Plate on side A
8. PA calibration 0.04
9. Flow calibration 0.94

i'm not experiencing warping but only bad corners and only one one side of the printer (mainly)!!

What else can i try? Feel free to ask for more details

PS i had a loooong chat with AI but it cannot solve this issue, we are circling around.

I want to say first that I’m still a beginner, recently started to draw my designs such as the one in the photo.

But I noticed that some of my designs made in fusion fail. They seem to detach and at some point (almost immediately in the first photo) they get lifted and it the head of the printer.

Searching on line a dirty plate might have been the cause so I washed it with dish soap but still no issue, even more flipping the design 180 degrees the problem switched side.

I tried again with brims and supports but it failed anyway (2nd photo) .

I tried to print from the bambù store one of the diagonal things without supports to test adhesion and it worked fine.

Am I missing something obvious ?

Bambù lab p1s with original basic pla

I have a Bambu Lab A1, and I’m using the default settings along with the brand’s own filament (PLA Lite). Everything was going well, but I’ve been encountering layer-related issues (Image 1), and today, the print shifted (Image 2).

I’m using a 0.4 mm nozzle at 220°C, with the textured build plate set to 65°C.

I started with the default print speed and later 166% speed. The retraction settings are the defaults provided in the Bambu Lab slicer. The solution I found was to lower the print speed and pause the print to allow the nozzle to cool down; I also set up a fan, positioned so that it doesn’t blow directly onto the printer.

Does anyone see any differance? I dont know which is the best.

Neptune 4 Pro. 0.2 nozzle. Elegoo rapid PLA

Hi all! Recently got an Anycubic Photon Mono 4 and have been trying to calibrate using the Sirayatech Calibration model. I am also using the Sirayatech Fast resin. Can't seem to get the cube to print out as supports are failing.

I'm using Sirayatech's settings for Lychee (see last photo) I also found that 15s was the ideal burn-in time without making it an issue to remove the print to the point of snapping them.

Exposure times for normal layers I've tried are 2.6s, 3.2s, and 3.5s.

Some guidance would be very appreciated!

Thanks!

Need advice on how to fix this issue, this model doesn’t want to keep the layers connected and it keeps messing up, especially on one side
Flashforge Creator Pro
Flash maker
Black Jaycar home brand pla
Nozzle temp 220c bed temp 55c
Speed unsure
No retractions

How do i improve the quality of the overhang sections? i tried to slow down, fan to 100%, lower nozzle temp as well but still not looking good, any suggestion is greatly appreciate,
My settings layer height 0.2, Bambu studio slicer

Need help identifying the type of malfunction/what parts need attention.

Print on the left is what it’s supposed to look like. Printed on Printer 1.

Print in the middle and on the right is printed on the same printer. Will call this one printer 2.

Both printers are BBL P1S

Printer 2 used to print this model with no issues, then randomly started acting up. It can still print different models with no issue, it only has issues printing these Ammo holder inserts.

I’ve replaced the nozzle, extruder assembly, and the build plate with no change.

Hi! I’m relatively new to 3D printing, and I’ve been struggling with tall, narrow prints, even when they’re fairly small.
They keep coming unstuck from the bed somewhere around the middle or towards the end of the print.

I’m using a Bambu Lab H2S with Sunlu PLA and Bambu Studio as my slicer. My nozzle temperature is 220°C and my bed temperature is 65°C as of the last attempt.

So far, I’ve tried:
-Both textured and smooth build plates
-Cleaning the plates with blue Dawn dish soap
-Gradually increasing the bed temperature, up to 75°C
-Using ridiculously huge brims
-Enabling Z-hop in case the nozzle is knocking into the print
Nothing seems to help.

Here’s a video of the last failed attempt. It got to the higher point than the rest.
https://youtu.be/PctCjGa0wIg

I know printing these parts on their side would probably be easier, but I’m really trying to avoid supports if possible.
I tried different kinds of shapes, but the second it’s taller than it is wide, it fails.

Is there anything else I can tweak to get these prints to stay on the bed, or is this just impossible to print vertically?

I'm printing PETG at 240°C nozzle temperature and 70°C bed temperature, using a 0.4 mm nozzle and PrusaSlicer.

My printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a replacement extruder, a BLTouch, and a modified print head using the Satsana design. I bought the printer second-hand, so I didn't install these modifications myself.

The bed is the standard perforated glass build plate.

The firmware is Marlin, and it supports creating a bed mesh. The BLTouch works as expected.

It's been three months since I bought the printer, and I still can't get it to print the way I want. The print quality is very inconsistent, and sometimes it works while other times it doesn't.

I have this 3 faded towards the buildplate and there is a 0.6mm distance between the bottom layer and the red star shape. I can not change this to be on the top as on the top I have another portruding number with a star pattern as well.

• P2S
• Bambu Studio
• PLA Basic Red & White, PLA Matte Dark Green (Bambu)
• 220 / 55

What is the best approach here to make the red part not sag and print well? I wold prefer not to make the whole layer red or use support.

Is this just me having to configure my bridge settings?

Hi friends! I finally got my flow ratios dialled in (I think lol) but now I have a question!

Do I change all flow ratio categories to the new value? Top, bottom, internal and external bridges are all set to the new value. Do I click “set other flow ratios” and change every other flow value as well? If my initial flow was .98 but all the others start at 1, should I increase it to my new value plus .02?

I tried googling first and it just kept saying flow ratios should be different for each filament type which is not what I’m asking🫩

Pic of settings for reference; AD5X, orca/flash studio, printing inland pla at 220/60

Any idea what could cause this? Just on the back.

Hi, I am pretty new to 3d printing and got my dads old printer from when he used to use it. Its a Mono-price Maker Select v2. I am using PLA with bed temp at 60 and Nozzle Temp at 205. Recently when I use it the print quality is absolutely horrendous. I has a very hard time coming off the bed when prints or done also. If anyone could let me know any possible solutions it would be greatly appreciated. I'm open to any questions.

I’ve tried larger line width, slowing print down, upping infill overlap. Any ideas I’m grateful for. Also tried new nozzle, filament is dry, and changed temp up and down seemingly made no difference.

K2 plus, Creality slicer, petg-cf, 270/265, bed temp 85/80.