Still has more cleaning to do to remove the supports material from the mouth but the Flashforge CJ270 works! Printed 2 mimics in about 24 hours in full color

Currently testing cleaning supports in a ln ultra sonic cleaner + water vs a wash & cure station + water to see if any impacts on color etc

This simple stand allows me to dis- play my SKADIS board with a beautiful glow of LED light and have the flexible silicone light available when i want to craft, paint miniatures or just hobby in general.

I haven’t had any problems before, but my most recent batch is turning black and clogging up at 190 degrees C. Am I missing something? Thanks

People were saying to get extra little tools for my sons 3D printer (he's getting one for Xmas)...does this kit cover what a beginner would need or is it overboard?

First of all if this is not the correct sub for this, i apologize, i didnt see it is forbidden in the rules of this sub.

Said that, I used to have a BambuLab A1 mini and printed some characters for my brother, but painted by hand (i suck at painting) and the models were pretty awful, low quality and thin walls that printed pretty bad, i was pretty surprised that Cars being so popular had so few good free models out there.
Just bought a SnapMaker U1 and first thing i wanted was to Muticolor print all of the characters again for him as a christmas present (not the only present, but one of them).

I searched the most common websites, thingiverse, MakerWorld, printables, etc. but didnt find a good quality printable model, do you know any set or creator of this models that i can use?

Thundervolt is not a giga or mega coaster but its launch is punchy and we don’t have many other options in the Pacific Northwest and western Canada. Had a fun time modeling, printing, and building this one and I have more in the queue!

Hello all I am using a Creality k1 max printer. I am using Creality print software, printing at standard speed using PLA hyper series filament at 260 degrees. Bed is at 100 degrees. Why are my prints shifting and doing this?

I’m new to 3D printing, and I wanted to make a prop for cosplay, I just wanted to know how I could go about sectioning this to have the least amount of supports on the blades-

It’s a very organic piece but I need to make it to promote a game I’m voicing in.

I also commissioned someone to model this so I don’t know anything about 3D modelling

Cheers!

Created a S I file and every time I do my print comes out with a scare.

Been seeing a lot of ppl recommend filament dryers lately, but are they really worth it for PLA and PETG? Some say they made a huge difference, others just use a dry box or food dehydrator and seem fine. I'm curious what actually works, not just what looks good on paper. What's the best filament dryer setup you've used? Did your prints noticeably improve?

https://www.instagram.com/mattmakesstuff.co

I accidentally ordered 30 neodymium magnets (40 × 10 × 4 mm) instead of the 30 mm ones I actually needed.

Unfortunately, they cost me around $3 each, so I'd rather find a good use for them than leave them sitting in a drawer.

I've been brainstorming ideas, but most of the things I've come across either use much smaller magnets or require several of them.

I'm looking for practical, functional prints that could make good use of these magnets, ideally using just one per project.

I have a few FDM printers and can design my own parts in CAD, so custom designs aren't a problem.

What would you make with these? Have you seen any interesting designs that use magnets this size?

I'd love to hear your ideas or see any projects you've made!

Thanks!

Hello,

I've got X2D printer (Closed with heated chamber) and looking for a build plate.

• I want to print ABS, ASA and PA on it. If it's even possible I would like to avoid using glue.

• I also would like to have bottom surface more smooth than with PEI textured plates.

What do you recommend?

Bambu Lab Engineering plate? Cryogrip Pro Glacier? Something entirely else?

this is the bottom layer, it printed white first them red, and it bleed out quite a bit, top layer looks better, not perfect, but way better.

top layer also printed white first then red

For a senior design project, I have been trying to find a thermoplastic that has thermoforming capabilities at around the BP of water (100-110 C). I am working on a exoskeletal prosthetic, and we want it so that when it 3D printed to a generalized shape, we can then thermoform in in water or with a heat gun around the contours of the patient's ankle and shoe. The idea is that a clinician or a patient would be able to form the exoskeleton to their foot in the office or at the patients home. However, we've been having serious issues finding a filament that is stiff enough to withstand daily activities (incl. outdoor) and constant use without bending and breaking, while also having a softening or transition glass point which allows formability, while still maintaining the general shape.

Some filaments have been floated toward me including ABS, PCL, TPU, PEBA. However some are either too rubbery and flexible (TPU and PEBA) while others are a little bit less functional in printer (PCL). ABS or ASA seem like reasonable options but many of the Technical Data Sheets on Bambu etc. don't report softening or glass transition temps.

Does anyone have any suggestions, links, etc.? Would greatly appreciate any help for material selection including if GF or CF additives would be helpful.

My Mac mini had been sitting on the desk for years, contributing nothing but a footprint. So I designed a mount and moved it to the wall.

It holds the Mac mini vertically by its sides, with the ports pointing down so the cables drop straight to the desk. The logo stays on show, because what’s the point otherwise.

What it does

• Grips the Mac mini by the side rails – no glue, tape or tools, it just slides in from the top
• Rounded hooks at the bottom cradle it so it stays put
• Two large openings in the back plate for airflow (and fewer grams of filament)
• Screw holes for the wall – works under a desk too
• 210 × 154.5 × 45 mm, made for the Mac mini 2018 (197 × 197 × 36 mm)

M1/M2 minis use the same chassis and should fit, but I’ve only tested the 2018. If you try it, let me know.

Print settings

• Bambu Lab X1 Carbon, 0.4 nozzle
• PLA Basic, 0.2 mm layers
• 2 walls, 20 % gyroid infill
• Supports on for the hooks

Mounting
Level it, mark the holes, use screws and plugs that suit your wall (3.5–4 mm countersunk fit), slide the Mac in from the top with the ports facing down. The hardest part was finding the drill.

Happy to share the files if anyone wants them.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3509056-mac-mini-wall-mount-2018-clean-vertical-holder#profileId-4009530

Looking at converting my single S7 MaxV to a dual brush design. Having issues with the all-in-one gearbox. Will hopefully update once I get it functional.

Project: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3509019-roborock-s7-twin-roller-brush-gearbox-v3

I am almost done with my setup.

I have the printer, the enclosure, and I have my eyes on a fume extractor.

But I am unsure if the fumes extractor can completely pull everything out of the enclosure.

Is there a way to be sure?

I plan to have a filter attached to the fumes extractor and it is my understanding that PLA is one of the cleanest materials without the extractor.

I'm not sure if I'm missing anything.

I think one of the last things I need to figure out is if the particles can escape the enclosure if the extractor is attached.

I know most people usually say to vent through a window, but that's a different issue from this, and I was wondering if anyone would be able to tell me if the particles can escape rhe enclosure specifically.

Any advice is appreciated.

I'm having an issue with JAYO PLA+ on my Bambu Lab A1. As you can see in the photos, I'm getting small gaps and missing extrusion lines on the surface.

I'm using the Generic PLA profile for both JAYO PLA and JAYO PLA+. Regular JAYO PLA prints perfectly, but PLA+ has these defects.

I've already dried the PLA+ in a SUNLU dryer at 50°C for 4 hours, but it made no difference.

Could this be under-extrusion caused by the filament settings, or possibly a bad batch of PLA+? Has anyone experienced something similar?
maybe bad batch?

I have a feeling my downloaded models folder is becoming a hobby of its own.Every time I find something cool, I save it thinking I'll print it someday. Then I find ten more things before I even get around to the first one.
At this point, browsing models might be a bigger part of the hobby than actually printing them.

Found this little Halloween toy on Snapmaker Space

Took about 3 hours to print. I like the result.

I work at Snapmaker, btw.