so the TL is cooked. blown head gasket blah blah blah. whether i fix it or swap it’s gonna cost me about 3-4K. despite the time and money i put into it selling it is the better option.

When i was looking for the TL i was cross shopping: TSX, V6 accords, 7th gen maxima (09-14), is200,250,350, LS400, g35/7 (cop magnet now)

If you guys could help out with any generally reliable suggestions i should look out for, preferably cars with a v6 or a powerful enough 4 cylinder, sunroof, maybe leather seats, and generally around 5K on the used market

I have this loose ground in my car and I can’t seem to find where it goes. It’s a ‘96 with the 3.2

[❗️SOLVED❗️]Just finished my head gasket that I started a few months ago and everything seems to be in place, other then this one connector. I need help identifying

So I made a bonehead mistake . I’m doing my wheel bearing -front right . And I put a screw driver on the sensor end by the bearing to get ready to press out the bearing . I used a flat head and pressed against what I assume is the sensor / magnet part of the abs/wheel speed sensor . I figured this out because when I went to grab something from my car I the headlights were flickering a bit so I put the car in the on position and the traction and abs light came on . Do I just need to replace that sensor or did I make a more expensive mistake ? Because I had turned the wheel 5 min before that in on position to unlock steering wheel and it was fine . Thanks .

This is my first time opening this part up of my car and the OBD connector should be there, but there’s nothing there

Hey guys. I just bought a 2008 Acura TL with 119,000 miles for $4500. According to the Carfax Carcare app, it was serviced by an Acura dealership at least once a year until 2018 and then by local mechanic shops until late 2024 (still serviced at least once a year).

The report also said that it got a new owner early 2025 and the owner only drove it around 6k miles that year. The only service info I could find for that year was a trip to Walmart's car care center for an inspection. I actually found the printed report in the glovebox and everything looked good.

The car ended up being donated at 118,000 miles to a charity and some FB marketplace dealer snatched it up at auction. All that to say.... should the timing belt be the first thing I replace? The Carfax report indicated that it had been getting the recommended maintenance throughout it's life but there was no indication that the timing belt was replaced.

I guess I just find it crazy that it might still have its original belt after almost 20 years. The car runs and drives like a dream otherwise 🤷. Should I just bite the bullet and get it replaced immediately or are there obvious sounds/signs that a belt is failing? Thanks!

Recently acquired a 2010 TL from my father in law - we are the third family members to own the car. Grandfather bought it new.

231k miles. Motor mounts are shot - otherwise car runs and drives fine. Worth the $$$ to get the mounts replaced?

Do we see these cars go much longer than this?

Looking for insight as to what to do. Thanks!

Looking to get a set of tires for my 08 Tl looking for something with good contact and sticks to the ground any recommendations? Also looking to get a set of rims that won’t cost an arm and a leg any recommendations?

When I was about to take off the valve covers for a valve adjustment I decided to reassemble everything due to it getting dark outside. During reassembly I broke a bolt to the high pressure power steering hose that connects near the intake manifold. Thinking that since the other bolt was in (and not torqued to spec at all) it would be fine.

So once I had everything back together I started my engine and heard a high pressure spraying noise that instantly got louder. I instantly turned my engine off to check the engine bay to see basically all my power steering fluid sprayed across my engine bay, my hood, bumper, and the ground infront of it. My serpentine belt, alternator, all the pulleys, exhaust and intake manifold were covered.

I tried cleaning the best I could with towels and brake cleaner but couldn't get it all off. I checked the high pressure hose and the other bolt broke (it was basically in half when I pulled it out originally) along with my power steering pump being drained of fluid.

Luckily my buddy is a mechanic and helped me extract the broke bolt bits and happened to have some bolts of the same size to replace the broken ones. He also helped me bleed the system.

I've basically been stuck with whatever fluid on the exhaust manifold smoking after starting my car so I've just been turning my car on and off periodically to burn whatever is there off. I also rinsed the body off to get rid of any fluid that was on there. My car still smokes when it's on but runs smoothly and I even took it for a drive to see what would happen.

So moral of the story is torque everything to spec and make sure any hose that undergoes high pressure is exactly the way it should be because it'll add hours to your job and cause a massive headache.

Has anyone dealt with power steering fluid getting all over their exhaust manifold?

Got better audio/footage to hopefully showcase the transmission research I've been working on to innovate on the 6AT transmission. Working on longer format content soon.

Been trying to research on FB, here and on Acurazine. The info is all over the place as far as possibitlies. So my transmission is slipping around 45 mph. I was wondering if it could be the 3th and 4th gear pressure switches as this doesn't happen on the low end and shifts fine. The fluid is good and clean. But I haven't done the filter yet in my 2005, Plus there's no CEL or the D isn't flashing. Any ideas or input is greatly appreciated it. The car has 311K miles on it and was driving great. Thank you.

I think its my timeing belt tensioner im at 225k should not be due for like 40 50k more miles the sound is definitely louder on cold start

Are the climate controls supposed to light up?

Just got it today and wanna get it connected with Bluetooth what are some options I can do?

Hey guys. Any help or thoughts on these codes? I just engine swapped this new to me 06 TL and im getting this. All the engine bay grounds are freshly cleaned.

So I've replaced my camshafts on the 4th gen tl and im trying to get bank 1 to tdc but its off by like 4 teeth while I was able to get bank 2 off by 1 so the sprocket isn't wanting to rotate clockwise it can rotate counterclockwise but stops i have the timing belt off and im confused what to do now as I dont want to damage anything

Seller says it has a slight transmission jerk. I remember my 04 did the same. Should I buy this??

Having trouble figuring out what this could be

2008 Acura TL Type-S — transmission won’t upshift under hard acceleration
I have a 2008 Acura TL Type-S automatic with 326,000 km. Under hard acceleration in regular Drive, when I floor the gas pedal, the engine revs to around 5,500 RPM but doesn’t shift into the next gear until I let off the gas. It will bounce like that and stay at high RPM until I ease off the accelerator and then it’ll shift. It only happens when putting heavy acceleration not normal driving. The + paddle shifters work tho

I was told the transmission had been replaced around 150,000km but I cant confirm.
Acura dealership initially thought transmission pressure switches because a technician had fixed a similar issue on his 2004 TL by replacing them. After road testing they thought the PCM/engine computer, suggesting an incorrect tune or calibration, even though my car has never been tuned. But they didn’t really know

Earlier this year, the PCM firmware was updated to deal with an existing electrical issue. Acura redownloaded the latest firmware but it made no difference to the shifting problem.

My check engine light is almost always on for a P0420 code—catalytic converter not heating up to the right temp.

Has anyone experienced this on their TL? Could it be my catalytic converter’s? I also have an oil leak from my oil pump but my oil level and my transmission fluid checked out.

Where would you start with this issue?

TLDR:

2008 TL Type-S automatic, 326,000 km. Under full throttle in Drive, it revs to ~ 5,500 RPM and won’t upshift until I let off the gas, but the + paddle shifter works normally. Transmission was allegedly replaced at 150,000 km. Acura initially considered pressure switches but later suspected the PCM/engine computer, possibly an incorrect tune or calibration, despite the car never having been tuned. They redownloaded the latest PCM firmware, but it didn’t fix the issue. Looking for ideas on what to do next.

I just picked up a tl stated in the title. It has 158k never had a timing belt replacement, trans fluid has been a lot changed or flushed. apparently the trans was replace give or take 80k miles ago can’t recall off the top of my head atm but what parts need to be changed or replaced soon for maintenance. I have a terrible breaking shudder but once I filled my tires almost to max (lmk if that’s bad for tire life) then the shutter went away, thinking that it’s the issue but seems to have a slow leak. My door actuator randomly locked and unlocks but can’t really tell because my handle lock doesn’t ever move unless it’s been manually closed or opens. Ps the unlock/ lock doesn’t open close the handle switch.

Do these engine have a form of cylinder deactivation if they do can someone please link a product that’s been used that is liked? Thanks in advance

Saw this on marketplace. The seller posted saying he does not know which car the exhaust belongs to and he found it in storage. It was listed for 100$ CAD.

I know little about exhausts. Wasnt sure if it will fit my 07 j35a8 swap but A.I said its 100% bolt on. Is it a good deal? Its long-tube j pipe.