My Frigidaire Professional doesn't seal all the way at the bottom. Gasket seems to be good. I think my door is slightly bent? Honestly can't think of what could cause this to not fully seal. I did take a caliper to measure the distance distance between door and freezer, and there's definitely a difference between the top and bottom.

I have a GE Gas stove range model #p2b918sem3ss. My dad lifted the stove top too high when we tried to clean it and the tube connected to the orfice holder broke off. The replacement part is now discontinued and I can’t it find anywhere, not even eBay. None of the parts stores could provide a substitute either. Considering the stove was not cheap and less than 20 years old I really don’t want to have to buy a new one. Oh yeah I forgot to mention that both the front right and left ones are broken😬.

Is there any way to fix it or come up with an alternate solution? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

The part I can’t find is the right one #WB28K10424. I did find the left one #WB28K10388.

Whirlpool LER7646EQ2 - When i turn the Dry Type dial the heating element comes on. When i depress the door switch the light cuts off. All dyer wheels spin freely.

When i press the start button I get No sound from the motor. i Used my non-contact tester to confirm power is going to the motor. I can spin the rear plastic caged part of the motor easily. I will attest that it was incredibly dusty behind the drum and dust had built up around the cables and inside the motor. I cleaned it all off. Not hearing the humming sound even when pressing the start has me thinking zebras not horses. What do you think?

I got the E15 code so tore into the machine to figure out where the leak was coming from. toward the end of the cycle I see the stream of water pouring from the plastic shroud at the top. I tried tightening the screws from the inside slightly but they were not loose by any means and it only leaked at the end of cycle. any ideas?

I have a Bosch Serie 8 (SMS88TIC1A/38) dishwasher, which is ~8 years old. It makes this intermittent sound even when the control panel is switched off (but still plugged in at the wall socket). Any idea what it could be?

My washer stopped working earlier and left the clothes wet. When I try to start a cycle, it will drain fine and put water into the detergent holder, then just stop. Doesn’t throw an error, doesn’t spin, the time just stays the same and it does nothing. When I put it into the diagnostic mode it says error 3C2. When looking at the drum, it twitches slightly like it wants to start and that is when I get the error code. I have read that this may be either the inverter board or the motor control board. I don’t want to throw money at a somewhat older washer, but I also don’t wanna buy a new washer when the matching dryer is working fine. Should I try the inverter board?

Hello hope everyone is well.

I have an Amana dishwasher that the start button won't work. I have tried turning it off and back on as well as taking the cover off and pushing the button with a screwdriver. The button won't light up or do anything with the dishwasher. I tried also tried to reach out to Amana/ Whirlpool about possibly a warranty but got a bit of the run around by AI answering services. I did not purchase this dishwasher, it came with the house I purchased however I believe it's about 2 years old. Is there a reliable place to buy replacement parts for machines that does not cost an arm and a leg? This part from Whirlpool is $200+.

The circuit board appears to have yellow in some areas but nothing jumps out when looking at it. The wires look intact and I did not see any visible corrosion or anything. Wondering if anyone has more experience with these?

My partner seems set on an LG pair but I've never had good luck with any of their other appliances. What brand should I look into? Is LG ok ?

Thanks!

Bosch Series 6 dishwasher, 5 years old, model SMU6HCS01A/10, Manufactured 2021, error E61-02

Any Bosch technicians out here? I have a bit of puzzle with this one, was hoping someone may further suggestions. It seems very similar to an issue described here before (https://www.reddit.com/r/Appliances/comments/1vjzza1/bosch_diswasher_wont_drain/) but the waste doesn't seem blocked the same way.

SUMMARY

A. The dishwasher started showing E61-03 error. Did some investigation and realised the waste pump died.

When I did a conductivity test, one of the three windings was burnt. I don't know the root cause for that.

B. Initially, I ordered a wrong pump (part#620774). Could not fit it in as the propeler extrudes a bit more but connected it to the motherboard anyway before realising this may be a wrong idea. When the water leaked, I did more research, realised it was a wrong part and fitted a correct pump in (part#631200).

C. The dishwasher still would not finish the cycle as it would not expell the water ending up with error E61-02 (wastewater pump blocked or the pump cover is loose).

SYMPTOMS

1. With a bit of water in the dishwasher, the pump would try to spin for about a second or two and stops. It would repeat 2x times and comes up with an error.
2. When there is no water in the dishwasher the pump spins freely for a period of time at a full speed. I even took it from the waste assembly and tried to slow down the propeller by holding it and there seems to be plenty of power in it as I could not make it stop due to the resistance on the propeller. This I think should eliminate the motherboard motor driver issue.
3. When there is water, it makes 3 splashes of water that gets pumped out but stops, waits, tries again 5 minutes later and eventually goes into E61-02 error mode.
4. I tried disconnecting the waste hose from the sink to eliminate a blockage in the sink. Same symptoms.
5. I tried disconnecting the hose internally from the water pocket to eliminate a blockage within the water pocket (or whatever is the plastic container called). Same symptoms.
6. I checked the return valve attached to the pump assembly, took it out, cleared and confirmed that it is not obstructed. I even tried blowing into it and was able to, with some resistance, to “blow through” the dishwasher, with some initial resistance.

Just to state the obvious:

1. I have reseated the white/gray pump cover, checked it for any cracks, nothing. It seems to be firmly in place and have "clicked" when being pushed in.

2. I confirmed no visible kinks on the hose

3. I have taken out the motherboard out and tested the relays for correct functioning. There are 2 relays that switch the motor controller between the heat pump and the waste pump. They both are switching correctly.

4. The heat pump seems to be working fine as it circulates the water and the water gets hot.

NEXT STEPS?

I am at loss as to what else to try to eliminate the E61-02 problem. I am not clear how the dishwasher concludes that there is a problem with the waste pump. I am assuming there must be higher current drawn which trips the board and wonder if there is a problem with the board and how to diagnose it as I seem to have tried everything. Any suggestions (or solutions 😊) would be greatly appreciated.

10 year old GE electric dryer, has been great for a decade. I always use low heat. Today I heard a loud humming, on and off. Like a stuck contactor while it’s calling for heat. Any advice? Do these use a contactor and not a Solid State relay like they should? Thank you! 👍🏼

Model MVW6230HW0

Error code F7E7

Washer will fill, wash/agitate, drain and spin on a regular cycle…but then gets stuck spinning in the sensing mode when trying to transition to the rinse portion of the cycle

Was making an awful screeching noise so I replaced the belt and that fixed that issue, but still have the same error code and problem

Is it a capacitor issue? Splutch?

We do way too much laundry for this machine to be non operational 😅

Could anyone possibly help me understand what is going on here, and how to fix it?

Water is splashing out of the opening in the plastic while the dishwasher is running.

Literally any help, advice, or recommendations on how to fix and repair it would be tremendously appreciated 🙏🏻

Can't decipher these beeps as far as how the manual explains it. The heated dry and extended heated dry button will blink as well. It tries to run while doing these errors and does this show (all the beeping in the video), but it always ends up stopping. The filter is clean. I have tried a reset. The bottom float tray is dry. What is this error code and how can I clear it?

My particular refrigerator is a French Door, Bottom Freezer Model in the PFE line, specifically PFE28KSKSS purchased July 2019. You likely have another letter between the last K and the SS that follows it - that is apparently a color code.

It uses water filter RPWFE.

I am a consumer not a repairman and just want to give people a heads up who may not already know that the design of the water filter was changed at some point in the last 6 years. I have no idea when.

This may or may not apply to models starting with DFE, GFE, GFS, GNE, PFH, PFD or GFE models. (standard depth models)

This may or may not apply to models starting with GYE, GYS, PYE, DYE, PWE, ZWE or PYD models. (counter depth models).

^^^These models are listed on the cover of my manual so I thought I'd mention them here. My situation may not apply to your fridge so please check your manual and your filters!

After having trouble replacing a filter, damaging the filter holder, replacing the filter holder, and sort-of damaging yet another filter, I have found that GE changed the design of the water filter.

I have been following the instructions in my refrigerator manual (purchase date 2019) on page 17, and when you are installing a new water filter, it specifically says you have to turn the filter 1/4 turn clockwise after you have seated it and before swinging the filter back into the housing. (You insert the filter with the word FRONT facing upward - then you rotate it 1/4 turn clockwise so that the word FRONT is facing to the right, and then you swing it back into the holder.)

Only today, after struggling to replace my filter, did I discover a tiny paper insert inside the box of my water filter. The last two filters I've removed from the boxes I did not see or feel this. It does not slide out with the filter. I just happened to look inside the box and see it at the bottom when I went to flatten and recycle the box.

The filter insert says, if you have a grey filter holder, DO NOT twist the cartridge.

Well, $%^&@!#$%, I have a grey filter holder. Of course I do. *sigh*

I can only imagine that there was trouble with people not following the instructions before, or rotating too far or not enough, so they made it "easier" by changing the design of the filter and how the tabs line up with receptacles in the housing. Thereby f**king over people who use the refrigerator manual and never saw the insert with the new filters.

If you have a grey filter holder, you DON'T install the new filter with "FRONT" facing up, but facing outward instead. Just gently push the filter into the housing with FRONT facing outward. Everything should line up properly and the filter should seat properly before you swing it back into the housing.

THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO ANYONE WITH A BLACK FILTER HOLDER.

I hope this helps someone.

Have a great day!

I have a Frigidaire gallery fridge I’ve been using for about a month. I woke up in the middle of the night to a beeping and the fridge saying high. In the morning it was still doing it and fridge temps were in the 50s.

I am hoping to find some troubleshooting advice to find the culprit as it will be a week minimum before the company for warranty will come out.

Any help is appreciated

It came with 2 springs, directions said match color that is in my current machine. I did that, but the other spring matches the length of the old spring(new one is about 1cm longer). Is this a new clutch just breaking in, wrong spring, or something else? It appears to be working fine, but that creaking, if it doesn't go away with a little use, seems like it will lead to premature wear. Thanks in advance

Whirlpool WRF560SFHW02. Inside the fridge, you can hear this incredibly loud 60Hz hum. Even with the doors closed this hum is shooting out of this fridge somehow, going into the basement below even, and all over the house.

The throbbing can be turned back into a constant hum by turning down the temp so the compressor stops, shaking the hell out of it, and wedging a piece of cardboard between the exterior and the counter it's next to.

The sound is loudest seemingly from the big flat panel at the bottom of the fridge. I defrosted the evaporator coils and that didn't help at all. The sound didn't appear to be coming from the fan in the freezer. I also strapped heavy pieces of rubber to all the pipes coming off the compressor, no change.

Inside the fridge compartment, you can feel the vibration along that back air tower and cover.

Washer seems to want to spin but can’t during washing phase. Anyone know what the issue is?

UPDATE: Washer spun violently once in rinse cycle.

Took out shelves in LG fridge and can’t for the life of me figure out this one.

I’ve gotten quite familiar with how fridges work having had to repair this one (GE Profile, French door, bottom freezer PFCS1N) too many times but I’m stumped by this issue.

My fridge is warm (60 F) and my freezer is very cold (-19F). I’ve cleared out excess stuff, defrosted the vents and de-iced the rear of the freezer. The Evaporator Fan is running; the damper responds, the compressor is running. No pooling water and the rear and bottom vents are clean.

After all of these steps, once the freezer returned to temp, it continued to drop and the fridge won’t cool.
Should I replace the damper assembly anyway? (I left it closed and checked ~ 30 min later and it had opened, suggesting it is functioning). I have an extra one from a repair a few months ago that fixed itself.

I can’t loosen a screw to access the rear freezer panel (where I previously replaced the evaporator fan motor)- is there a component here that could frost over and restrict air movement?

Thank you in advance for any insight!