I fear I may be misunderstanding on a fundamental level how torque is actually produced by a motor.

I recently watched What's the deal with axial flux motors? from AKIO TV and in his explanation of how motors produce torque, he states that there are "useful" and "non-useful" sections of a stator's windings depending on the direction of Lorentz force produced by that section of the winding. This is determined using right hand rule.

In an axial flux motor, the part of the winding which runs circumferentially (from axis to circumference) is the "useful" section because the force produced is in the direction that the motor is able to spin. The part of the winding which runs radially is the "non-useful" section because the force produced is not in a direction the motor is able to spin in.

When you increase the number of slots in an axial flux motor, the stator teeth become narrower, and the ratio of "useful" to "non-useful" winding around each tooth improves, so wouldn't the torque increase as well?

I know this isn't the case, but I'm not really sure why it isn't.

Any help is appreciated.

We have these alibaba tumblers at work that are a pain in the butt to replace. I was wondering if there's anything I could buy off Amazon or something like that to power and control the speed of this motor to replace the electronics in the tumblers. I would need to power it from the 120v wall outlet.

The motor dimensions are 125mm x 82mm. And the shaft is 39mm x 10mm

I'll remove the old electronics and im planning on making the new hardware fit or extend the base with sheet metal to make room for the new stuff.

Hey all! I'm a theatre design and technology student who is currently the master electrician for a show. A part on our set (weighs about 7-10 lbs) must rotate, and I'm looking for a motor to do this with! I was wondering if there's any motors out there that can have their speed controlled via the voltage input, with a maximum voltage of 24v. Thanks in advance!!

I recently inherited my grandfather’s 14” bandsaw. It looks like it was never used and when I went to use it myself today I may have determined why, as it would not start up. I rewired the switch every way possible and still nothing. The last thing I could think was that the motor maybe wasn’t wired correctly, but I know nothing about wiring motors. Can anyone tell me if this looks correct to them? Maybe I need a new switch? I’m at a loss.

Hello, everyone.

Right, I have this stepper motor "103h8223-0814 DC3.5A 1.8 sanyo denki" that I use in my 6-head Tajima embroidery machine—it’s the Y-axis motor—and I’m having trouble finding one to purchase. I could really use some help with this. Is that possible?

Hello. I'm a intern at a robotics company and I need some assistance in figuring out a winding. The thing is I was given a stator of 36s40p motor. It's actually made at the company by previous interns. But the thing is it was in a bad shape and there was no proper documentation on how it was wound. From what I can understand here are a few points:

1. It's a 3 phase ie A,B,C

2. It's a star connection.

3. Each phase is split into 2 parallel branches which is soldered together at input and output terminals.

4. Also when i tried looking online winding calculators most showed 36s40p having a scheme like AAABBBCCC but this one was definitely not like that, it was more like ABABACAC etc like adjacent windings were never the same. I'm not sure if it wasn't same phase but it wasn't definitely same branch.

I definitely understand that the info I provided is comicaly vauge but if in ever in your experience you have come across something similar could atleast share the name of such a similar winding or point towards where I can find an answer?

I was hoping you all would be able to point me in the right direction of where to even ask.

I have an old appliance. It has a brushed motor which is controlled by an on/off switch. When it's on, it spins in one direction. You can control the speed of that spinning via a knob (rheostat?).

EDIT: CORRECTION! The two-position switch adjusts direction of spin. So the wiring is already present for clockwise and anti-clockwise control depending on switch position. Now I'd just need to find a way to alternate between the two (CW and CCW) when the switch is in one position.

I would like to make it so that there's a third setting on that switch, which is a device that alternates the spin direction of the motor every couple of seconds.

I've put this in to AI. It talks about a 3-position switch, something to step-down the voltage (5V 2-Channel Relay Module with Optocoupler Isolation), an Arduino nano, and some sort of device that alternates the polarity (it called it a DPDT). It also says this: AC-DC 5V Buck Module

Here's my problem: I truly don't know what any of this means. I should have failed physics in college. I wouldn't know which wires I'd need to connect to where. I don't know how to power any of this without burning things. I can figure out programming, but I don't know how to hook an Arduino up to something so that it could be programmed.

Is this the right place to ask? Where could I either learn about this or find someone who specifically can hold my hand and walk me through it like I'm a little idiot?

I tried to open the motor but couldn't get the leverage even with a sowing needle to pry open the metal fins holding the plastic in place.

I really want to repair this motor and not buy a new ones again. But if the motors properties change after repair I think I will have to either way.

Thanks for the help!

Hey everyone!

I'm looking for some really cool interactive websites or animations that explain how different electric motors work (DC, AC, BLDC, induction, etc.).

I'd love to actually see magnetic fields, currents, and their interactions to understand how they generate torque and rotation.

Bonus points for interactive simulations where you can play around with parameters!!!! I will love it!

Any awesome resources you'd recommend?

I have been working on a 6 wheel rover in which I am planning to use 18V motors. As for the motor driver, I am planning to use the Cytron 20A dual channel motor driver but I genuienly don't have the money left for that and I have already designed and manufactured the pcb around it. Does anyone know from where I can get a discounted price for it?

I don't know if I'm missing a screw or two but I took out the four screw rods but I can't seem to get the "end caps" to separate fully from the main body. One I've gotten loose but that's it, the other won't budge.

On The Dayton I just put back together those "caps" come off easily once the screw rods are out.

Hello. I was gifted a beautiful old and rare table saw I would like to fix. Motor humming but not turning. This area was full of grease and I’m thinking a seal broke… but this red bar looks broken and I’m thinking it should extend to the post like the yellow one does. It’s wired for high voltage if that matters. Any useful help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance

I'm new to electric motors so sorry if its a simple question. This furnace fan burnt and I wanted to know why so I broke apart to find 3 of the turns are black. Not sure what that means or how it happend. Is it possible it was just a short circuit issue?

It's a 250VAC.

Please excuse the butchery I did to get it open.

So after I bought a new 3d printer I disassembled my Creality 3d printer which had these bj42d29-08v15 stepper motors that I want to reuse for a project. The idea is to control them using a esp8266 or esp32. So far I have found that I need either a ULN2003 Driver or a A4988 driver. Would that be correct? And it accepts 12-24V DC, where 24v is the best?

So a driver like: https://ardustore.dk/produkt/stepper-driver-a4988-drv8825-expansion-module

So I'm planning to make a vertical lift for my 1:64 cars, I came across the below video (attaching the images)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNOGsPIhPhQ

I see that a lead screw is being used to lift the diecast, but I cannot seem to identify the motor that is being used. One option is to use the NEMA 17 Stepper motor, but its costly and is bulky. While the motor in this video seems to be light weight and sits on the top as shown in the pic, it uses a pulley system

Can anyone help me out finding that exact motor

Since at this point in time only pulled replacements remain available, I'm trying to figure out if this fan can be rebuilt with either new parts or frankensteined with a similar Delta-model fan. Neither cleaning, nor relubricating improved the noise, yet it spins quite well when unmounted. This lead me to assume the bearing is worn out.

• Can the bearing sleeve even be changed without damaging the assembly? There appears to be a circlip between the shell (black) and the windings mount, though it is difficult to reach let alone spread open.
• How do I remove the circuit board from the bottom housing? There's no access underneath the sticker, seems it's welded to the plastic.
• If there's information/guides out there on how to transplant a compatible fan motor, I'd appreciate any links or guidance.

This is from an A1407 Apple Thunderbolt Display 27" (model number 922-9936)
BUB0812HD-HM00
Apple P/N: 610-0157
Brushless, DC12V, 0.35A
Delta Electronics Inc., Made in China
Shaft 3mm * 12 mm; Impeller-Ø 65 mm

Have a fan motor. Stopped working and when I took it apart to oil everything…the plastic impeller broke in my hand. I’m finding the whole piece used for 25 bucks on eBay but only need the plastic impeller for the side that’s missing. Any ideas would be appreciated.

I recently was asked to help fix a friend of mines dicer for their resturant and I just wanted to verify wether or not it requries a new armature or not, they stated that they cant use the machine anymore because it overheats and the speed of the motor has slown down, I am suspecting that it is the armature based on the damage and overall wear of it. But I want a second opinoin to confirm. Thank you

Edit it appears the Rotor to be in good shape, I just openeed up the capacitor and it looks like thier is a small seam crack on the side and some rust/oxidation on it from exposure.

I looked at the bearings for the dicer/choppers rotating plate and they seem to be shot as they are leaking oil.

Would this just be a bearing replacement I am worried if the motor needs replacing or any part of it becuase these Hobart parts can be expensive oem :(

Thank you for all your efforts and help!!!

Hey all, I’m working on a rocketry payload that spins a small flywheel (~137 g) at around 10,000 RPM. The iFlight XING2 2207 1750 Kv fits almost perfectly, but I need more protruding shaft to reach a coupling, at least 13 mm past the top of the bell.

What I’m looking for:

• Similar size/mass to the XING2 2207 (≤45 mm diameter, roughly 30–60 g)
• Around 1500–2000 Kv, running on 3S
• 5 mm shaft, preferably with a smooth section rather than just prop threads
• Protruding shaft length >13 mm
• Works with a standard AM32/BLHeli ESC

Does anyone know a motor like this, or a brand that sells extended or replacement shafts for 2207-size motors? I’m also open to swapping the shaft myself if anyone has done that. Thanks!

I'm trying to get a DC treadmill motor to work in my shop tools with AC power without using the dead treadmill board. In my research, and in long discussions with my friend Claude, I think this will work, but I want someone with more expertise in electrical engineering to confirm before I do something that will kill the motor or other components prematurely.

The thermal switch is built into the motor, and I think I can salvage the freewheeling diode from the board (if not, I'll buy new). The choke and toroidal inductor will also likely be salvaged. I have an SCR and bridge rectifier in the mail.

This weekend I was changing the water in my hot tub. My father in law lets me borrow his old Simer Geyser submersible utility pump to do so. Like usual, I put the pump in the water with the hose attached and plugged it in. It immediately tripped the GFCI. I pulled the pump out of the water, reset the GFCI, plugged the pump in and it turned on. As soon as the case touched the water, the GFCI tripped. The outer jacket on the cord has been cracked for quite some time, but now it looks like the insulation has cracked too.

So I decided to pull it apart and replace the cord for him. I get the bottom screen off, but can't figure out how to get the motor off. After a few minutes of fiddling around with it, it fell off, and I ended up with oil all over my lap and shoes. The motor was sealed to the housing for so long, it was just stuck there.

Now I need to figure out what kind of oil I can put back in this thing, then replace the cord. I've been researching, and what I've found is a ton of different suggestions with the same two characteristics. It has to be non detergent mineral oil, and it has to be dialectric. I could get a gallon on McMaster Carr, but I only need a pint, quart at the most, but I can't find anything that fits the bill.

Does anyone have any recommendations on something I could pick up at a local store? Or am I going to need to order something special, or maybe check with a local electric motor rebuilder? I do have one that I can try, but something from a store is definitely easier.

Thank you in advance!

I need help with my Specna Arms Core 25 Gen 2 with HAL ETU.
I changed the motor and installed a different one to test it, and everything was working fine. Then I put the original factory motor back in, and after that, the replica stopped responding completely. There is no reaction at all when I connect the battery.
I really need some help because I'm new to this and don't know what to do.

hey im planning on using an MT6835 on stepper motors on a ground vehicle for getting absolute angle
however im not sure about the PWM output mode as it is very poorly documented.....there is also quite a bit of latency in when the encoder sends data over to the stm32(at 944Hz takes 1.006ms)
if my stepper is moving at 250rpm there is a lot of accumulative lag in my readings. I dont need velovity control but when the stepper reaches target angle i need the exact angle at that point which will be way off with a major lag

Hi everyone,

I'm building an AmazingHand robotic hand kit and I'm stuck at the very first step: changing the servo IDs.

Hardware:

- Feetech SCS009 servo (from the AmazingHand kit)

- Waveshare Serial Bus Servo Adapter (CH340)

- Windows PC

- External power supply set to 5.2V

- USB-C connected to PC

What happens:

The FD software detects a servo at ID 1 when I click Search.

However:

- The model name is displayed as random/garbled characters instead of "SCS009".

- The Programming tab is empty.

- Servo feedback shows:

- Voltage = 0.0V

- Position = 0

- State = Timeout

- Torque Enable does nothing.

- Changing Goal position and clicking Set does nothing.

- The servo never moves.

What I already checked:

- Power supply measured with a multimeter and is correct.

- Servo becomes harder to rotate when powered, so it is definitely getting power.

- Tested FD v1.9.8.2 and FD v1.9.8.3.

- Tested two different Waveshare servo adapters.

- CH340 driver is installed and COM port appears correctly.

- Adapter jumper is set to TTL mode.

- If I remove the TTL jumper, Search immediately fails and detects nothing.

- Baud rate currently set to 1000000.

- Servo is detected consistently as ID 1.

The strange part is that the software seems to detect *something*, but all data looks corrupted and communication appears partially broken.

Has anyone seen:

- garbled model names in FD software?

- empty Programming tab?

- SCS009 detected but not readable?

- compatibility issues between SCS009 and Waveshare Serial Bus Servo Adapter?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

My watch cleaning machine stopped, or technically I went to use it and it didn't go on. I have used for years and recently replaced the POT and have used it since then with no problem. I tested the 110 lines and get 110 at the motor (coils under the yellow tape). I tested the DPDT for continuity as well as all the wires, they are fine. I don't know if I should get any voltage at the brushes? How and where do I put the meter leads to test them? Since 2 wires (green and blue) run to the brushes and the white and black run to the coils, I don't understand how this works to make the motor change direction or what I should be checking for. I did find out that this is not the original motor so wiring diagrams didn't match. This is what it is now.