I wanted to do the Apennine Mountain Traverse, so I packed my bike and went pedaling. The route starts in Bologna (Italy), so from my town (little village close to Salzburg, Austria) I just went.
After 3 hours/40-50km I had to call my girlfriend and ask her to come to me because my rear brake wasn't working right. She took me all the tools I needed for the side road repair, I fixed the brake, kissed her goodbye again and continued.
I took the train from Innsbruck to Bolzano, to cheat a bit and dodge the rain. Then I continued to pedal.
I got rained on while sleeping, because I was lazy to set up the fly over my hammock. I realized it was raining when water went through the side of the sleeping bag onto my back. I woke u, "fuckfuckfuck", I checked the weather radar and ultimately I decided to not jump out the hammock to set up the fly because the rain was about to stop in 10'. I thought it was better to have hammock and sleeping bag a bit wet instead of having hammock, sleeping bag, myself and the fly wet.
I took a train from Mantova to Modena because that flat part of Italy was boring.
I visited friends and got drunk.
I started the route I wanted, I followed the GPS track one pedal strike after the other.
The GPS track... the pedals, my bike, took me to beautiful landscapes, magical forests, villages, mountain passes, sweets long singletracks, towns, fast tarmac sections, sttep uphills, steep downhills, creeks, water fountains, rocks, churches... history, culture... noisy and busy forest at night, birds, squirrels, boars, small and "big" animals around my hammock... and... is that howling in the distance coming from a wolf? I want to believe so.
I reached the town of ForlƬ, but I was felling I wasn't done with the Apennines. So I took the train back to Bologna and started the Via degli Dei. This route was shorter, more popular with hikers, and less "backcountry", but more demanding: fewer kms with way more elevation. So many Hike a Bike sections, but the views and the singletracks...oh yes, that's good stuff.
I reached Firenze. So.Many.People. So.Many.
I took the train to Pistoia. One more stretch in the Apennines. I pedaled toward a friend that lives in Castel di Casio area. More Apennines, more autumns colors, more singletracks, more hike a bike. Just more, but the "more" that's soothing, that help cement memories and process all what I saw and experienced.
Also the "more" that finally killed my rear brake definitely leaving me to chose the easy road back, because I did everything I wanted and more. I felt finally I could cruise on tarmac till the next train station and head home.
I pedaled, I pushed my bike.
I sweated, I got rained on, I got dehydrated.
I got hungry, I ate everything I had with me, till the last crumble.
I jumped in rivers and creeks. I washed myself and my tshirt in water fountain taps. I was stinky and freshly cleaned and stinky again.
I ate delicious cheeses, focaccia, tigelle, crescentine, erbazzoni... and I ate boring plain porridge and stale bread.
I explored. I looked around. I read info panels.
I was in awe.
I hang my hammock in beautiful places and less so.
I gaze the night sky.
I listen to all the sounds nature can make.
I saw birds, deers and boars.
I heard owls, squirrels, hogs, horses, cows...
Wolfs where howling at the moon, right? Just on the other side of the valley. They must be wolfs.
I met few people and had nice interactions.
I've pet cats.
I struggled sometimes with managing time on and off the pedals, distances, batteries, water and food, but I think I learned a lot.
I pedaled 120km in one day and also 30km another day. And also none at all.
I pushed that heavy bike so much, sometimes one step at the time, but I knew I could do it, just slower, another push, 15cm more, every step will sum as progress. Will get me there.
I took terrible pictures. I'm bad at telling my story.
It was a small big adventure. I lived that. I was there.
There's beauty, and all kind of things out there. I want to reach them with my bike.