Cabinetry company didn’t measure correctly so now I have cabinets are two different heights, roughly 0.5” off. Contractor installed the cabinets (except the crown) and didn’t add a 0.5” base to try to make the cabinet heights even. I ended up firing contractor due to his lack of attention to detail amongst many other things and I am attempting to install the crown molding on my own now.

Question I have for the group is how should install the crown given the situation I am in? It’s a 2 pieces stacked crown so I have a crown riser and then a cove crown. The distance between cabinet box and ceiling is roughly 4” and crown cove is 3” tall so only 1” of the crown riser will show.

1. The easiest way for me to install the crown is to have the crown riser be flush with the cabinet face frame (so then the different in heights won’t matter with the inside mitre), then I would just have crown cove on top on that which would hide any differences in height. Potential issue is that having it flush means it could look sloppy with the line between the cabinet box and the crown riser.

2. Installing crown bumped out to match door fronts, and on the sides out by 1/4” but then the crown riser will have a small hole on the inside mitre due to difference in height of cabinets. Thinking I can just I could caulk the hole?

3. Adding a 1/2” of wood to the top (or unscrewing cabinets and adding to bottom base) to make the cabinet heights even. Issue will be the small visible strip of wood above or below the cabinets (which is sitting on top of countertops).

Open to any other suggestions that you may have! Thanks in advance!

Has anyone seen or done anything more appealing then metal window wells for basement windows?

I have this joint where my trim meets drywall on a perpendicular angle, I will have more trim on the face of the bare studs going down vertical. Need advice/ideas on what I should do to make this look clean, thanks!

Hi folks, I'm searching for a specific tools to enrich my current setup. As my side business (kitchen, closets, etc) is starting to grow, I need to invest in some tools.

I live in one of Balkans states where the main chipwood suppliers is company named Elgrad. They do the most of work, but there are always some things you have to do at the customer's place.

So, I need these tools: a plunge saw, a concrete drill hammer (SDS) and preferably an angle cutting saw for making those ends around the cabinets under the stairs and under roofs.

My goal is to spend enough money for good set of tools, but not to overspend for something like Festool, etc. because at this stage I don't want to spend too much. As far as I'm informed, I fall somewhere between Bosch Pro, Makita, DeWalt and Metabo.

Battery or not, less important.

I'd like to hear which models will suit my needs the best. I'm targeting something between 700 and 1000€ for all.

Thanks in advance.

Does anyone know where I could buy the clamp that holds the blade without the handle attached ?

Want to make my own handles but seems silly to knock the clamp out of a handle that works

side note: the mod(s) at r/milwaukeetool are fucken losers

First time making tongue and groove cabinet end panels. How did I do? What is your method to make these look like factory grade paint? I plan on spraying them and then attaching them to my cabinets. Do you all caulk the panels at all? If so that type of caulk.

Since the stair post I did earlier was received better than I thought, I figured I'd share some shop and site pics of a pool house I built a few years ago. All the timbers were felled and sawn under a 5km radius from the shop.

Hello, as the title states, I’m looking for some guidance on repairing different components of my rear exterior door, as replacement would be several thousand dollars, my family cannot afford this at the moment.

I am relatively handy with a construction background however, I am a concrete repair and coatings guy, so my main issue would be techniques and terminology for some of these components, but otherwise I think this is within my scope.

I have attached some pictures and my issues are as follows:
Loose threshold(sill pan?)
Wood rot on lower sections of brickmoulding AND jambs
Wood rot and ugly ass but functional patch job on astragal(mullion)?

I am very appreciative of any advice. Thank you

Looking for input from someone, or if you know someone, who’s attended / completed the NBSS Preservation Carpentry course. I love the idea of learning from the course but the price tag of $60,000 is exorbitant to me. Was it worth it is and has it made an impact on your life are basically the questions I’m asking. Been in carpentry for 8 years and I admire the idea of preserving old homes / history but 60k is quite a chunk of change

Replacing treads and risers and not sure if I want to fill/paint the skirt boards or cover them somehow