I have a large house with heat pumps. 3.5ton downstairs. 2 ton upstairs. if the power goes out i will just run the downstairs. i have natural gas and i bought that generator with a rushed decision because the weather man said apocalyptic ice storm with 1" of ice. end of hte world and no power ever again.

now that i have time to prepare. here are my thoughts. install soft start on the 3.5ton generator. Since we have natural gas i am thinking about selling the powerhorse and getting a trifuel.

we have heatpumps, tankless water heater. my goal would be to keep house not freezing and run other items that are a need and not a want.

what size NG generator would be good moving forward? i would prefer something that can handle a 3.5 ton trane with some other electric needs and not maxing out the unit.

additoinally, i am very handy and have done a decent amount of electric work, would doing a DIY install make sense?

Looking for real world experience, does anyone have a NG (or tri-fuel) inverter generator that starts and runs their 4 ton AC without a soft start on it?

Has anyone run into issues with Central AC after adding a soft start? We live in Louisiana so AC is not optional here and I want to protect my unit as much as I want to protect my generator.

Edit: also accepting soft-start recommendations and warnings.

TLDR: New home build (NW Indiana). Using Champion 201176 (9000W start / 5875W running on NG) with interlock. Grill stub is 16 ft of 1/2" pipe +2 elbows, (from 1" pipe to the meter) in the unfinished basement ceiling, so easy access. Plumber quoted $500 to upsize the 16 ft of 1/2" pipe to 3/4" pipe. I want full NG output for essentials + ideally one AC (with soft start). Is the current 1/2" pipe sufficient, or should I upgrade? Is $500 fair? Also future-proofing for a bigger gen later.

Long version: Building a new construction home (Northwest Indiana) and having an interlock kit installed so I can run my Champion 201176 Tri-Fuel open-frame inverter generator on natural gas during outages.

Generator specs (NG): 9000W starting / 5875W running. Manual lists minimum flow rate of 135,000 BTU/hr and requires 5–7" WC supply pressure. Champion also sells a 3/4" NG hose and states that the 3/4" diameter “delivers full natural gas flow, so the hose never restricts your unit’s output on natural gas,” which makes me think the stock smaller 1/2" hose that came with my gen is limiting, as I've also read from folks in a similar situation.

What I want to run: Main essentials (2 energy star fridges, some lights, chargers, wifi, sump pump, etc.) plus ideally one of my two central ACs (2-ton and 2.5-ton) with an Airgo soft-start installed. I know I can’t run both ACs and that even one will be pushing the NG continuous rating, but I’d like the option.

Current gas piping:

• 1" pipe comes in from the meter, then splits to various 1/2" branches (stove, water heater, two furnaces, fireplace, dryer)
• Grill hookup on the back patio is fed by 16 feet of 1/2" pipe with 2 elbows. This run is in the ceiling of the unfinished basement, so it’s fully accessible (not buried or inside finished walls). I plan to connect the generator there.
• I will also use a ~30 ft hose (planning to upgrade from the stock 1/2" one to a 3/4" hose).

Plumber quoted $500 to replace that last 16 ft of 1/2" pipe with 3/4" pipe. Given the easy access in the unfinished basement ceiling, I’m leaning toward doing it. Everything I’ve read suggests the 16' with 2 elbows of 1/2" pipe + 1/2" hose combination will not deliver the full 135k BTU/hr needed for max NG output on this generator (especially with the elbows and long hose). It would also future-proof the line if I ever upgrade to a larger generator down the road.

Questions:

1. With 16 ft of 1/2" (2 elbows) + ~30 ft of hose, will I realistically get full NG wattage from the 201176, or is the upgrade to 3/4" pipe necessary to avoid restriction?
2. Does $500 seem reasonable for this work in Northwest Indiana (easy access in unfinished basement ceiling)?
3. Any other gotchas I should watch for (gas meter capacity, pressure drop, etc.) when using a grill stub for this generator?

Appreciate any real world experience with this generator or similar setups on NG.

I have a Pulsar PGX60BiSRCO 6000W inverter generator with a 120/240V NEMA 14-50R outlet.
I'm considering the Reliance Controls 3006HDK 30A transfer switch kit.
My main electrical panel is outdoors, so I need a setup that's rated for outdoor installation.
I'm mainly looking to power:

1.5 HP well pump

2 refrigerators

Maybe a TV and my WiFi modem and basic household essentials

My questions:
Will this 30A transfer switch kit work with my generator and handle my 1.5 HP well pump?

What specific cord or adapter would I need to connect my generator's 50A outlet to the 30A transfer switch?

If this kit isn't suitable for outdoor installation, is there a similar outdoor-rated kit you'd recommend?

Since new this thing has never been able to start on NG. In the past I have started it on gasoline and then flipped it over to NG. Ive run it for days on NG using this trick. This season I can’t get it to run on NG at all. it just dies as soon as i flip it over to NG.

One time it ran for 2 minutes but then the RPMs bounced and then it died.

Watching my gas meter while doing this and its not moving at all. I dont think it is the solenoid because I can feel it clicking back and forth when on/off so I’m assuming no stuck valve.

Any ideas? Thanks!

Hello team!

I am interested in doing a tri fuel conversion for my Generac xg8000e.

Has anyone specifically done this on this model unit? Which kit did you use? Where did you mount everything on the generator (sadly, where I park my generator, I cannot have anything extend beyond the carry handle when it is folded down or behind the rear orange framing). Any complications? How about tips / tricks / advice?

Thanks!

*for those of you with a keen eye, yes I posted earlier and somehow ended up with a double post. I tried deleting one, but well, ended up deleting both. Not sure why, so I am posting here again. Sorry.

I live in Puerto Rico and I am looking to rent a small studio apartment that has a wall unit AC and a small refrigerator. There is no generator here and I’m looking to see what I can use as an alternative. I would prefer that it be electric if that’s such a thing. Thank you so much!

Attempting to start my iGen12000TFC for the first time. Will not start using the button or starting fob.

It starts when using the pull cord though. I ran it for 15 min, then powered it off and attempted to start with the button again, but nope. I can see the choke is automatically engaged. Any suggestions before I exchange it? Also, this was only on the grass because I injured my back and couldn’t move it any closer to my driveway. Thanks

Sorry, I should’ve mentioned this is hooked up to natural gas.

Just got this and am setting it up. Only one safe place to put it, and not possible to move it around too much so oil changes will occur in tight quarters. Looking for a compatible oil drain plug with hose and preferably a magnet; and waiting on a response from Votex. (Drain plug valve for WGen 6000 is not compatible.) in case anyone is interested, verified that the drain plug is 10mm with a 1.25 pitch.

If anyone has info re a compatible magnetic dipstick (in case the Votex drain plug valve isn’t an option) that would be helpful.

Hey everyone, looking for some real-world opinions on a hybrid generator + battery setup. My plan:

• Get a Honda EU2200i as the generator.
• Pair it with a ~2 kWh portable power station.
• Use the generator mainly to recharge the power station (and handle bigger loads when needed).
• Run freezers and fridges (plus some lighter stuff) off the battery for quiet, overnight, or longer runtime without the generator running constantly.
• In a few years I want the option to add solar panels and possibly expand the battery capacity.

What I’m considering so far:

• Generator: Honda EU2200i (pretty set on this for reliability, quiet operation, and clean power).
• Battery options I’ve been looking at: EcoFlow Delta 3 Max / Delta 3 Max Plus, DJI Power 2000, and some Anker Solix or Bluetti 2 kWh models. Main differences I’m seeing are continuous output (2400W vs 3000W), expandability (some take extra batteries, some don’t), and how easy/high the solar input is.

Questions for people who’ve done something similar:

1. Is the EU2200i + a 2 kWh power station a solid combo for running 2-3 freezers/fridges (plus light loads) with generator recharging as the primary method?
2. Any strong recommendations between EcoFlow Delta 3 Max / Max Plus, DJI Power 2000, or other 2 kWh stations for this use case? Especially regarding real-world fridge runtime, generator charging speed, and reliability.
3. How much does expandability and easy solar input matter if I plan to add panels and possibly more capacity in a few years?

Appreciate any experiences or suggestions. Thanks!

Been checking for a few months, I'm in the country and lose power a couple times a year due to blizzards and high winds,

Looking for a generator to purchase in the next month, I'm going down for double knee replacement on Nov 24th so losing power would be a giant pain in the ass lol.

If everything was on at once the most would be a well pump, fridge, tv, lights, sump pump, grinder pump and Furnace fan I mostly burn wood.

Looking tri fuel even though I understand that propane may freeze and not work? we do get below -30 and wind chills of -50. would those temps also be bad for gas?

We just install new electric. took from pole and ran underground (damn winds) and added the 50amp receiver with lock out.

So, dealing with extreme cold and high winds and our electric consumption (doubt all things running at once only 2 of us here) what would you recommend.

also my 50amp cord is only about 5 feet from being able to run generator in garage (to protect from wind and cold). can I add a 10ft cord or is that a bad idea, it's the longest I could get for 50 amp 50ft.

Looking for size and brand about 2k budget. I want to wait for a black Friday sale, but I will be laid up by then lol... Thanx for any help.

I’m planning to purchase an Anker SOLIX F3800 Plus with the official Generator Input Adapter (A17D0111).

My generator will be a WEN DF680iX dual-fuel inverter generator, providing 120/240V split-phase output through a NEMA L14-30R receptacle. WEN specifies that it has a bonded neutral.

Is this generator’s bonded-neutral configuration compatible with the F3800 Plus and Generator Input Adapter?
Can I safely charge the F3800 Plus from its 240V L14-30R output using the official adapter?
Are any special grounding, neutral-bonding, or charging settings required?
Will generator charging and simultaneous output through the Anker’s L14-30R or TT-30R ports work with this configuration?

(Edit: LPG, not LNG) I’m talking about standard propane.

Any thoughts on what I may be doing wrong and/or what to fix/adjust? Brand new (about 1.5 hours on gasoline). Figured I’d see how the propane did. Apparently the answer is, not.

Is this problem is due to button or dead battery it sometimes off and on for long hours

Only connected load is 15W router

I just purchased the Champion 10kw running watts (gasoline) / 12.5kw starting watts generator. It's model 201438.

The generator came with a 1/2 diameter hose. The generator needs 130,000 BTU/hr. I see online Champion also sells 3/4 diameter hoses.

I'm wondering if there is any advantage to upgrading to a 3/4 diameter NG hose for the champion generator. They are a bit expensive and more bulky, and I would prefer not to unless there was a specific advantage.

Hello y'all. Sorry if this is the inappropriate subreddit.

I am over my skies here trying to install a run timer to my generator. I can understand what to do for hooking up the timer to a simple on off switch but I am lost trying to add this timer to a rotary switch used for on/off and electric start. Any help is tremendously appreciated.

Hi,

I just bought an EZ Generator Switch which came from the factory in Bonded Neutral configuration. I installed it like explained on the website & their Youtube video (see link below) directly to my furnace incl. properly wiring up the two neutral cables (Neutral Line & Neutral Load).

In case of a power outage I would connect my Maxpeedingrods MXR3500S inverter/generator via an extension cord directly to the EZ Generator Switch and switch it to Generator mode. I confirmed that all my plugs on my MXR3500S are "Neutral Bonded to Frame”.

My question: during a power outage, do I have to connect my MXR3500S inverter/generator also to a ground rod or not? I reached out to EZ Generator Switch and they told me "Use our switch as delivered,  nothing else you need to do. Standard extension cord is fine". However, I'm still reading that a generator has to be properly grounded in such a setup.

Can anyone clarify this?

Following setup I followed:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iafpLwkgITY&t=702s

Thanks.

Hey all,

You guys probably get asked this a lot, but seeing as how indecisive I am, I figured I'd get outside input.

I have frequent outages in my area that don't usually last for more than 8 hours, and the longest I remember was 3 days.

I'm on NG, and have a 1/2" inlet rated for 7 iwc.

From my back of the napkin math, I'd probably need an 11 kW generator; 6800 running and 10900 surge:

A couple of window AC units, a 1/2 HP 230 V well pump, an 80,000 BTU gas furnace, a refrigerator, a 36,000 BTU gas water heater, (preferably) the garage door opener but that lives on the lighting circuit for whatever reason so why not, smoke detectors, bath lights, and a couple of additional dwelling area circuits.

Things I could go without during even a 3-day outage: the washer, dryer, oven (which is gas), and major kitchen appliances aside from the refrigerator. The disposal I'm up in the air about, it's a 1 HP with a 1200 watt running draw.

Usually the power goes out when I'm at work or asleep, so the whole home with ATS is the answer here, but I got a rough quote of between $14k and $20k over the phone. I have a couple different companies coming out tomorrow, plus third scheduled the day after, for a more accurate estimate.

The other option is portable. Yes, it'll be significantly cheaper, but the tradeoff is having to dig it out, hook it up, and start it, and honestly that's the last thing I want to do when I get home from a 12-hour shift and/or there's a not insignificant amount of snow on the ground.

Are there other options?

First generator so maybe I’m doing something wrong. 87 octane unleaded gas.

Oil seems fine. Start in choke, start in run- same result.

Tried doing it with the gas cap off. Same results. I’m really perplexed.

I can return it to Costco so it’s not the end of the world, but really would love to have it work.

No error lights that I can see.