ready to install a supercharger and want to add a aftermarket header to complement the forced induction

Ok so I am coming on here because I have a problem. My Knock Retard is going up to an 8.5 under about 50% throttle; I cannot figure out why. I drive a 2019 Accord 2.0T. It was on a off the shelf Ktuner tune, then I noticed the Knock Value so I set it back to stock, any ideas on what it could be, I doubt its the tune because I set it back to factory calibration and the Knock Retard still went up. Spark plugs look fine but look to be running a bit hot. Any input is appreciated

I have a USDM EP3 Si (K20A3) and I’m interested in turboing it. I’ve seen a number of people (mainly sleepyEP3 on TikTok) with turbos on these cars but I haven’t been able to get an answer on which kits they’re using or how much you’d have to do internally to make it work. If anyone has experience with it please help me out, thanks.

Build has been clacky since first fire.
K24A4 block K20A2 head.
Valve lash is done (Intake .009, exhaust .011)
CP carillo 2618 forged pistons
BC H-beam rods
Ferrea Titanium springs with stock but replaced valves/seats/retainers.
TSX cams
50* VTC

85-90 psi oil pressure on cold start

Sounds almost like VTC rattle from a worn out K series, but doesnt go away after a few seconds.
I know these engines have noisy valve train, but this seems excessive. Any advice is appreciated.

Hey all, I am looking at purchasing a 2001 MR2 Spyder with what the owner claims is a K20a type R engine. I have read that I should check the stamp on the intake side, however this engine is backwards in the MR2 so that may be pretty difficult to get eyes on. Are there any other clear indicators I could look for? Thank you for the help!

What transmission do you use on a full after market build

Using a k20z3 on a rwd swap and trying to work out the mounts. I bought some mounts that you will see in the picture that bolt further back on the engine, but they align poorly with the engine mounts on the chassis.

Im thinking about designing from scratch and using the two holes circled, but hesitant as I can't find what mounts on these and I'd hate to get to installing AC or something in the future and needing to remake the mount. Also, are these holes consistent amongst k-series? If I destroy this engine and get use a k24 next will it have the same holes?

Rear motor mount bracket in a K24 tsx. The threaded hole on the block is chipped

K20z3 head with OG Skunk2 tuner 1’s
Stock 07 TSX block with Type-S oil pump
441whp 314wtq Dynojet

I bought a knock off skunk 2 intake , just to try and port so if I messed up I wouldn’t be out 400 bucks, anyways when I cut it open it has some werid cast lines across the runners. I had my buddy try and weld them so I could then smooth them out but the cast was so porous that he really couldn’t. My question is , will running it like this cause any drivability issues ? First pic is when I cut it and second pic is after I attempted to smooth it out

Hello, I am wrapping up my first transmission rebuild on an nrh3 out of the ep3, and had a few concerns before I send it. First, the shift collar is extremely close or s touching what I believe to be 4th gear on the countershaft. I feel like somethings off but idk.

Next, I feel like this reverse gear lockout cam thing isn't aligned properly. I can't find many photos of it online but it seems to contact the shift forks at a weird angle and I can't find much info due to most rebuild videos being on the 6 speed.

Lastly, I can't for the life of me get the case on to bench shift it. I see that you need to press to get the bearings to seat in the case but I can't even get everything to align properly, so any tips would be really appreciated. thanks!!!!!

I recently bought a K24A2 head off Facebook marketplace for really cheap. The cams, valve springs and the rockers look like they are in great/good condition. The only portion of it that looks suspicious is the third cylinder chamber, yes, I bought it knowing it looked like this, but I was just wondering what could have caused it and or does it seem fixable. The person I bought it from said he got it in a storage unit that he bought so he doesn’t know the true cause of it

Also, this Ktuner part on the intake side of the head does not look centered at all. I was wondering what part this is supposed to be and why it’s off centered.

I’m just starting the process of swapping a k24a and 8hp45 into my 2020 MX5. Hoping to get around 400whp. Looking for turbo recommendations…thanks in advance

Can anyone tell me what mounts on the cracked bolt hole?

I’m due for an oil change soon and I’m getting very conflicting information about oil viscosity, the owners manual states to use 5W-20 but people who have the same car or engine (2003 Honda accord LX 2.4L) either say they use 5W-30 or oil stabilizer

Like the title says the small holes on the injector seats don’t line up with my gasket , is this an issue ? When I did a search it says there used for cold starts ? Again that was the ai google which I don’t trust . I’d rather ask the experts

I had it going NA for like 6 months but I think it’s time to make it even more ridiculous lol

I’m finally close to the end of my swap. It’s been a decent amount of work

I am building a k24a2 swapped RSX and I want to design an exhaust that is mostly free flowing and good sounding but quiet enough that it won’t wake up my neighbor that is right next to my driveway. But then I also want it to sound great at WOT. What setup would you guys choose or design? Any help is appreciated.

Hello people smarter than me !
I recently got my k24a block back from the machine shop. Stock crank, eagle rods, Wiseco pistons. The shop honed the pistons out .5 over to 87.5mm. This is a boosted build plan on running a 6466 turbo. The head is also built. Should I run a 87.5mm head gasket or go .5 over with an 88mm head gasket ? Also any suggestions on brand or type for a boosted build ?? Thank you !!