Hello everyone I’m 24 year old who just began my start up roofing company and we specialize in anything from single ply, torch down low slope roofs, shingles, and sheetmetal roofs and siding , I keep struggling to stay profitable in some of the jobs that I’ve been completing , and my question is what would be a correct way to put a price on the material I install , I’ve gotten different answers to this from other outfits but I feel like I’d be over charging, and guidance from the veterans out there would help

My understanding is that the step flashed examples show a more professional quality job. Going around the area I came across examples of both methods. If done without steps is that considered against the best practice, but an acceptable shortcut. Is step flashing just an indication of a more experienced roofer with quality in mind?

Not a roofer, and by stepped flashing I'm assuming when the visual has stepped looking material, that is stepped flashing. Like the second photo. Are both methods considered acceptable by the standards makers? If not then there is a bunch of bad work being done.

To finish the job. Roof was completed on Aug 25th. Full deck removal and replacement . Our copper half rounds and aluminum gutters were banged up pretty badly. Showed the project manager photos of them using the copper half round gutters as footing.

We've been calling and asking for updates on when they will correct the issues.. They keep ghosting us . We have STILL NOT RECEIVED OUR FINAL BILL . They keep sending gutter contractors to our house WITHOUT contacting us first . A guy was on our roof taking down the aluminum gutters WHEN WE WEREN'T AT HOME. We were not given any notice of anyone coming. They just show up while we aren't home.

Is this normal? We have sent them several requests to NOT have anyone on the property doing any work while we are NOT home.

Yet people keep showing up while we are at work.

They can't seem to find a copper gutter guy to fix the half rounds apparently (as they sub contract out).

This is a BIG name roofing company in our area and we are trying to figure out what's going on. We called the project manager on Friday when I came home after finding the guy removing the aluminum. His truck was still running so it looked as though he was trying to do a quick one and go. Said he'd look into it and never called us back.

WTH?

Roof is about a month old and I was cleaning out gutters and noticed several bare spots on more than a few shingles. Is this normal? Feels like I shouldn’t be able to see exposed fiberglass. Some
Of the darker spots are just the color but the bare spots seem off to me.

This is a reroof on our townhouse complex the roofer said he is done and it meets gold plate warranty which we have
What is everyone else thoughts he is now saying gutters are to low but they were never touched and now he wants more money
Does this look ok or very bad workmanship

I have inherited this home as part of an estate and I am also inheriting the issues. Had I been involved with this endeavor I would have raised hell, but here I am.

A new metal roof was installed 5+ years ago by a local "handyman" (it's a small coastal town in the Gulf of Mexico.) This is a 2nd home, so although the original owner knew about a leak, they were unaware of the extent.

The home has an addition, where the pitched roof transitions into a flat roof. The owner raised issue that the roof was leaking and the "handyman" made a transition to the flat roof (B in pictures). While they were installing the transition, these idiots were lazy AF and just bent up the existing panels and shoved a flat transition piece in place and sort of screwed back down (A). It continued to leak so they used spray insulation foam under the high ridges and sort of put roof tar along it as well. It was good enough for the owner at the time to call it good.

Now it's my issues; the spay foam as expected failed, the tar was illogical for a few reasons. The transition piece they installed sloped back from the flat part of the roof to the pitched part of the roof (pooled, wouldn't drain), so a family friend installed an additional extension (C). It helped but there is still a leak. I added strip foam the best I could to the sloped part of the roof (A-ish) and siliconed along its edge since it slopes towards it. The leak has slowed significantly, but it still exists.

I don't know my best approach. Rip up the bent panels/affected area and redo that section properly (water barrier was never used from my observation). Use a sealant tape or coating to cover the affected area to see if that fixes it. Redo the entire roof. Something I haven't even considered?

I work in the trades, so likely I am going to do this myself. The idea of the "easy fix" sounds great since I don't live in the area, but I also appreciate just doing it right. I've mulled this over so much that I don't know my best approach. The pictures are at various times, but show the over all scope.

Seems weird that some sections extend past the roof line and some sections don’t reach the edge of the roof. Also interested in the roof to roof connection. Bottom of downspouts also kind of hovering 12” off the ground. Thoughts?

Bought this house a year ago, and found a leak under a bedroom window.

The baseboard is wet, but the carpet is not. How do I go about diagnosing and fixing this?

The outside is stucco, and I've noticed there is no flashing at the base where the roof meets the wall. Could that be issue?

Girlfriends manufactured home. Been looking into these flat roofs, main concerns are the way the material is stapled together, the lack of gutters, and the part that's ripping up. Any ideas on where to start, what the major items are called so I can Google diy stuff for some fixes. Any help would be awesome 😎

Trying to shore up before the big rains, lots of holes like this around the perimeter of house roof and wondering what is a good way to do this on a budget? Is expanding spray foam a good idea since the room is foam, or is it better to use a silicone roof sealant directly?

My roofer wants to install a GAF liberty SBS peel and stick roof on top of my existing bitumen roof. His guys already made the mistake of installing asphault shingles so they partially cover the old bitumen roof. He says he wants to cover the old one because it slips under the cedar shingle siding and I guess he thinks he'll have to remove them. I read the GAF Liberty instructions and it calls for a smooth surface (bitumen definitely not smooth) and for the removal of the existing roof. Can't he just tear off the old roof and slip the new sheets under the space under the shingle left by removing the old roof or will that create problems? Is covering over an existing bitumen roof acceptable? How should a roofer be doing this job? Any ideas on how to deal with this would be appreciated. If you're a roofer would you please say so in your reply so when I show this to my guy he'll know it's coming from pros? Thanks!

It’s time for a reshingle of my roof. I’ve called 3 roofing companies to come by and give quotes. They all seem to be using the same product line (GAF) and are suggesting the same amount work done. Strip down to the boards and rebuild. I’m so perplexed by the difference in the quotes that I don’t know what to do. Company #1, who has done work on the roof in the past 1.5 years came in at the lowest bid at $11,900. Company #2 came in at $16,500. Company #3 came in at roughly $22k. Company 3 is recc’d heavily by a neighbor of mine and the owner was upfront about having low turnover of workers and “doing it the right way”. I need some input into the psyche of these companies. Why would there be such a wide spread in total cost when the same product is being used? Would Company #1 give a lower price cuz they have done work on the roof in the past and value me as a customer? My head is spinning!

Want to do something to prevent water ingress. For the bit of exposed wood — would a sealant patching compound suffice or should I apply a spray or expanding foam first? For the giant gaps under the vents— expanding foam filler?

Wife is concerned about the existing skylights that are not getting replaced. Is it ok to have the new OSB resting on them?

(Realtor) My clients are buying a new construction build in South Carolina. This sheathing looks pretty lousy, but I'm not smart on roofing. Does this need to be redone? On what grounds? Thank you!

Homeowner here: I’m going to chalk it up to colder temperatures, but the attic where I had the box is much warmer than outside (about 50 degrees today). Last time I did this (same roll btw) years ago it was end of summer and I remember it sticking to itself and giving me a hard time rolling it out. Is it a good sign that hitting it with a heat gun seemed to promote adhesion to the deck? I may just have to run an extension and hit all areas. Or would a hotter (60’s or 70’s) day with a blast of sunshine do the trick? The deck is clean and I’ve removed the brown paper backing. Good thing is no wrinkles I guess. I used cap nails for now.

I'm helping a friend go over her builder's list for the lumber order for a new low-slope patio cover at her house 2' OC 3"x6" rafters, plenty of blocking.

Getting roofed with TPO. Builder has put 3/4" CDX T&G ply on the order for decking.

Is this excessive? I've only ever put 1/2" ply down for roof sheathing, but I'm no TPO expert.

Not sure if it's mechanically fastened or glued. We live in the PNW with no crazy wind considerations.

,

It was almost time for my new roof to go up, so I had an HVAC technician come out and service my rooftop AC unit plus the furnace in my house. Very thorough, chatted a lot, explaining things. We talked about my gas tank water heater too, since it is 26 years old and had a leak. I’m planning to replace it after my new roof goes up. The guy leaves. Let’s assume everything is looking good at this point.

The next week my new roof goes up, all good, no issues.

A week later it’s time to deal with the gas water heater. The contractor from the water heater company comes out to give an estimate and immediately discovers the gas water heater’s exhaust vent pipe had been disturbed - elevated by a full 12-14” and was allowing combustion gases to vent into the house (our water heater is in a closet off thr dining room). He also notices the furnace’s exhaust vent pipe has shifted upward (the furnace is also in the closet - it’s a big closet of 135 cubic feet), partially separating it from its connection. He yanks them back down and into place.

What do I say to the roofing company?

Extra details: California home. 1950s. Combination smoke / CO2 detector is 8’ away and gave no alerts. Kids and wife all got sick within the last week (classic cold symptoms only for them, whereas I had a cold and a headache for a few days). Just about all fully recovered.

I recently had my roof replaced, which included tearing out the old torch-down material and redoing my built-in (mopboard) gutters with a PVC membrane.

Upon inspection, I noticed there is loose debris—specifically loose nails and wood particles—trapped directly underneath the newly installed PVC liner.

Is it acceptable for a roofing contractor to leave debris under a fresh PVC gutter lining, or should the wood decking have been swept entirely clean before the membrane was fastened? I am concerned that walking on the roof for maintenance or the constant water weight in the gutters could cause these loose nails to puncture the PVC over time.

Has anyone dealt with a similar issue during a built-in gutter installation? Any advice on how to approach the contractor about this would be greatly appreciated!

Hello,

We've had our roof for about 10 years now and earlier this week, I noticed a few shingles that had damage on them, most likely from a cat\possum. Is this something I could patch with some type of glue\paste or do the shingles need to be replaced? Thanks in advance!

Location: Orange County, CA

Ok, I get that nothing is impossible. But more more impossibly expensive.

This is an old wooden NZ house.

We have a dropped living room floor, the room is maybe 6m by 6m. This room only joins the rest of the house on one side which is 3 steps higher and this floor is level with the rest of the house.

I want to pop the ceiling up to allow for enough room to raise the floor to create a usable footprint. My partner says absolutely not. So I said what about dropping the main connecting floor (which I think would be more painful and create two stepped locations). He just rolls his eyes. There is room to drop the floor, but this feels like way more work to me.

The ceilings are raked if that matters?

Do people do this kind of thing, or is my partner right and I am dreaming?

Had a 3 season porch replaced. The old roof was flat, new one is slanted and so it had to come up higher to meet the original roof. Now that it’s done I’m having the stucco and trim repaired around the area. The work that was done especially with the flashing seems pretty terrible? Total novice but I’d like some insight on these pictures

House is 100 years old so excuse the beat up stucco, shingles are a composite rubber slate type product. They were able to source a very close match for the new roof which I was very happy about.

I’m a homeowner in the west Toronto area collecting quotes to redo the flat roof on our 1974 house, and the proposals differ a lot in how they fix the slope. Before I pick one, I want to understand how each option affects the whole assembly, not just the membrane. Photos attached.

Current assembly (inside to outside):

• Ceiling drywall
• Kraft paper vapour retarder on R20 batts
• Ventilated air gap
• Roof deck
• Torch-down mod-bit. A core test showed the deck is dry, with no insulation above it.

Ventilation:

• Intake vents on the sides of the roof.
• I suspect some bays dead-end where the flat section meets a sloped roof section
• Another section runs into a wall at a different elevation, so those bays may not have a clear path out either
• I’m not sure there is any real exhaust, as opposed to intake on one side and nothing on the other.

Problems:

• About 800 sq ft across three flat sections.
• Ponding in several areas
• Scuppers clog constantly with needles, cones and leaves from a big pine next door.
• A bathroom exhaust fan was added last year, and it occasionally condenses or drips [

The three sloping approaches I’ve been quoted:

1. Carpentered slope on top of the existing deck.
2. Strapping under the deck.
3. Insulation-based slope. 2" of polyiso over the existing deck, then tapered polyiso to drain toward the scuppers, then the membrane.

The proposed membranes are a mix of 2-ply SBS mod-bit and TPO

Questions:

1. Option 1, slope on top. This creates a second cavity between the old deck and the new one. Should that space be vented, or is it effectively a sealed air space sitting above my vented cavity? Is there any risk of trapping moisture between two decks?
2. Option 2, strapping under. This keeps the assembly the same type but changes the depth of the vent space. At the low ends, does the air gap get too thin to vent properly? With the deck off, is this the best chance to actually fix the dead-ended bays?
3. Option 3, polyiso. This makes the roof a hybrid: about R12 or more above the deck, a vented cavity, then R20 below. Since the ventilation air runs between the two insulation layers, does the polyiso add much real thermal value, or is it mainly a sloping method that also keeps the deck warmer? Would the right move be to close off the vents and go fully unvented? If so, how much exterior R-value do I need relative to the R20 inside to stay out of condensation trouble in Zone 6? And what do I do about the paper vapour retarder?
4. Height changes. Options 1 and 3 both raise the roof surface. What does that do to the wall flashing heights, the scuppers, and the transition to the sloped roof section?
5. TPO vs mod-bit here. Does a white TPO deck meaningfully increase condensation risk in a vented cold roof? How do you rate TPO vs 2-ply SBS for snow, foot traffic, and constant pine debris?
6. Red flags. What should I insist on in writing for any of these? I’m thinking full tear-off vs overlay, deck replacement allowances, how ventilation will be handled, and flashing details. What would make you walk away?
7. Age and repair vs replace. I’m not sure how old the current single-ply torch-down is Based on the photos, roughly how old does it look? Is it near end of life, or could it reasonably be repaired and fixed for drainage instead of fully replaced?
8. Bathroom fan condensation. The exhaust fan added last year occasionally condenses. Should this be corrected as part of the reroof?

My main worry is trading ponding for a hidden moisture problem by changing how this roof dries. Option 2 seems closest to the original design but is the most invasive; option 3 seems simplest but changes the assembly the most. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks!

Beyond what I can glean from Yelp, Google Reviews, Angie's List (which is a dead heat), and price (nearly dead heat), and materials (identical from what I can see), how to choose? Same industry awards, same certifications, etc.

One guy suggested our roof line wasn't long enough for a full ridge vent, so would need a combo of ridge vent and...box vents? The other guy didn't mention anything about it.

This is a big spend, I don't know how to pick one vs. the other, or if there are other questions or intangibles to investigate. Or if I'm just in analysis paralysis.

I'm in the Atlanta suburbs, and the two companies are Dr Roof and Atlanta Roofing Specialists, if that matters. I have no idea where Dr. Roof went to medical school.