Laptop will charge for like 30 seconds after connecting the mag charger than stop charging until I unplug the charger and plug it back in where it will do the same thing, what’s wrong with it?

I have a surface pro 8, old I know, and it just started running slow and idk what to do to make it work better. If I restore it to factory settings do you think it’ll improve performance?

Hey all,

I've got a Surface Laptop 4 15" that's gone completely dead on me.

For a while it was randomly shutting down on me, and a couple of times it wouldn't charge for a couple hours/ 1 day, then it would just start working again like nothing happened. Now it won't charge or turn on at all. Nothing happens on the Surface Connect charger, and USB-C doesn't do anything either.

I'm comfortable opening laptops and have already opened this one to take out my SSD, so I'm happy to take it apart. What I really want is to diagnose the problem properly before I spend money on parts, rather than guessing and buying a new Surface Connect port or battery for nothing.

Right now I'm leaning towards the battery, mainly because of the random shutdowns, and because USB-C not working either makes me think the port alone isn't the problem.

My main question: how do I check if the battery is actually working when I can't turn the laptop on?

Thanks in advance, any tips or horror stories welcome. I'd rather hear them before I start poking around inside.

If you're on SP11 or 12 and you have a Thunderbolt dock with 10GBE using Aquantia (AQCxxx) chips, Marvell has now created drivers. Tested good on my OWC dock which uses AQC107.

Go to Marvell driver download page: https://www.marvell.com/support/downloads.html# and follow: (You need to select AQC113 to make the driver show up. Not guaranteed to work on all Aquantia chips, but mine although being 107 still works with this driver)

The drivers are super new, built on Oct. 12th and released on Oct. 17th

I’m the developer. I built this because OneNote on Windows always made me stop writing to go and find a tool,

For Surface pen users in particular:

• hold the side button and the pens, colours and undo open in a ring around the nib
• pressure ink, palm rejection, and shapes that snap neat when you hold still
• mark up lecture slides and PDFs while it records the lecture
• search finds your handwriting

It’s in the Microsoft Store, it’s free during the beta, and you don’t need an account. I’d really like to hear how it feels on different Surface models, and bug reports are very welcome.

deltella.com

My first surface pro has been a great experience. Lucked up and got a like new pro 5 16gb for only $100.

From notebookcheck,

Microsoft's answer to the Apple MacBook Pro, the Surface Laptop Ultra, comes with the novel Nvidia RTX Spark line of processors and an oddball display choice. Not that the Mini-LED panel of the Microsoft Surface Laptop Ultra isn't bright and beautiful, as tested in our review, but it comes with issues like screen flicker, ghosting, lack of local dimming, or slow response times, and most of these can't be fixed with software.

https://www.notebookcheck.net/Microsoft-fixes-Surface-Laptop-Ultra-screen-flicker-and-boot-times.1434395.0.html

Hey all, I just encountered this weird issue. I'm charging my SP11 with a 65w usb c charger for the first time. Immediately after plugging it in, the entire OS slowed to a halt and the keyboard mouse works on and off- the haptics will stop working, most inputs are delayed or missed. Makes getting any sort of work done impossible.

Unplugging the charger immediately fixes the issue. Plugging it back in reproduces it.

Has anyone encountered this before? Any idea why this is happening? Thanks.

I have a surface pro 1 and I'm experiencing some weird battery issues and just wondering if there's anything I can try to sort it out.

I noticed a few months ago that the battery icon display was pretty erratic and would take a while to count down even when it's been on the battery power for a while, but now it's got a lot worse it will just sit at 100% even though it's been running over 3 hours and eventually it will just turn off without showing a low battery warning or anything. I've installed pure battery analytics and that is the same, the odd thing is that program show my design capacity as 42002 but full charge capacity as 87594 mWh

Obviously that's not right and it shows the same reading in the windows battery report, I've tried installing Microsoft AC adapter and ACPI control method and let it reinstall itself but there's no difference. It still just sits at 100% and 9 hours run time remaining. I know it's pretty old and the battery is probably well past it's lifespan but is there anything I can try to get it showing the battery state correctly or just forget about it and keep it on AC power.

Thanks 🙏

Hi,
I have following issue and maybe you can help me out😇

My Surface Laptop 7 (Intel version) suddenly stopped booting. It was working fine and was plugged in. Nothing strange, but now, whenever I press the power button or simply open the lid, the Windows logo flashes for a split second and then the screen goes black. Nothing else happens.

Has anyone experienced this before? Any ideas what might be causing it or how to fix it?

Thanks everyone!

Hi! Quick favor for anyone with a Surface Studio (gen 1 or 2) running Windows. I'm researching how the Studio's touch and pen connect internally, and two screenshots would help a lot:

1) Device Manager > Human Interface Devices: do you see "Intel(R) Precise Touch Device" in addition to "HID-compliant touch screen" and "HID-compliant pen"?

2) A USB device tree (e.g. USB Device Tree Viewer, free): is there a Genesys Logic USB 3.1 hub, and which devices are listed under it (webcam, microphones, touch, pen)?

I'm trying to understand whether the touch controller talks to the base over USB (already-processed HID) or through Intel IPTS (raw data processed by the host). Thanks in advance, and no worries if you can't check!

Hey everyone,

Since there are already plenty of guides covering how to replace the stock M.2 drive in the Surface Laptop Studio, I wanted to focus specifically on fitting a full-size 2280 SSD with a slim 2mm copper heatsink and sharing real-world thermal data.

The Laptop Specs:

• Model: Microsoft Surface Laptop Studio
• Specs: Intel Core i7 / 16GB RAM / NVIDIA RTX 3050 Laptop GPU

The SSD & Cooling Setup:

• Drive: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB NVMe SSD (2280 form factor)
• Heatsink: 2mm Copper Heatsink with thermal conductive adhesive backing (sourced from aliexpress.com — basic 2mm copper plate meant for 2280 drives).

Fitment & Clearance (Important Detail):

The 2mm copper heatsink fits flush against the back cover without applying direct pressure.

• If you press hard on the bottom casing near the drive area, you can actually see the SSD flex slightly through the ventilation slots.
• However, this is completely fine and safe because the M.2 mounting socket itself has some natural clearance and play. The minor movement doesn't affect drive operation or stability at all.
• Removing Stock Pad: I also removed the stock foam/pad that was attached to the inside of the bottom cover. The original pad had a metallized cover, which was safe for the fully shielded OEM drive. However, on a bare retail drive like the 970 EVO with exposed SMD components, I was worried that metallized pad could potentially cause a short circuit. In my opinion, because of its porous structure, it acted more as a mechanical damper than a proper thermal interface anyway—making the 2mm copper plate a much safer and thermally superior solution.

Thermals (Sensor 1 / Sensor 2):

• Idle / Light Web Browsing: 34°C / 44°C
• Sustained Heavy Load (Full Disk Encryption): 43°C / 61°C Max

Full disk encryption is one of the heaviest continuous read/write workloads you can throw at a drive. Keeping the controller under 62°C peak inside such a thin chassis is a massive win for a cheap $2–$3 mod.

Why Proper Heat Dissipation Matters (And a Quick Note on NAND Memory):

When squeezing a 2280 drive into tight spaces like the Surface Laptop Studio, thermal management is key:

1. The Controller (Sensor 2 / Higher Temp): This is the component that desperately needs cooling. NVMe controllers produce intense localized heat and will thermal-throttle performance if they cross ~70°C+. The copper heatsink rapidly pulls these thermal spikes away from the chip.
2. NAND Flash Memory (Sensor 1 / Lower Temp): Unlike CPUs or GPUs, NAND flash memory actually performs better and lasts longer when operating warm during write operations! Keeping the NAND chips around 40°C–50°C reduces cell degradation, whereas writing to over-cooled NAND can actually increase wear.

The 2mm copper plate hits the exact sweet spot for tight laptop clearances: it safely tames dangerous peak controller temperatures while keeping the NAND flash right in its optimal operating window.

If you're upgrading your Surface Laptop Studio with a 2280 drive, these slim 2mm copper pads with thermal adhesive are definitely worth adding to your build!

Feel free to ask any questions about clearances or temperatures!

Ok so i have the SurfaceBook laptop and i tried to install linux on it , but my dumbahh deleted windows and now im stuck on the UEFI and i cant boot an usb stick , it just simply dosen't lets me

I also tried to reformat the stick like 100 times , and even tried to put windows back , but still didnt work

I'm not a big musician. Mainly just make things for fun. I use Splice and an Arturia keystep. I have maybe 8 plugins/VSTs but never have them all open. I was looking at a surface pro 8, i5 16gb ram 512gb. I know these don't have fans. But I was looking for something pretty portable and inexpensive. I don't want some 15" laptop lol or an old MacBook that's $800+

Hello all! My Surface laptop 7 recently had issues (people at Geek Squad thought that it was likely water damage). I was just wondering if there was another replacement laptop for cheaper that still has 60Hz, LCD IPS LED-backlight Pixelsense flow (Pixelsense flow not required for me if it doesn't affect the display), the same antiglare coating, fairly high resolution (~200ppi or a little higher), no detected backlight flicker, sRGB, very low minimum brightness; whether or not it has a touchscreen or the same aspect ratio doesn't matter to me. I honestly don't care about the RAM or Storage too much; I'm ok with 8GB of RAM and 128GB of storage.

I accidentally broke the touchpad on my MS Surface Typecover. My machine self-identifies as a MS SURFACE PRO (11th Edition) my typecover shows "Model # 1095". The web states these two are COMPLETELY INCOMPATIBLE but I've been using them together for years with no issues.

All images attached. I just want to try and find an AMAZON RENEWED replacement for cheap or, barring that, buy a brand new one .... but I am HOPELESSLY LOST on which model to buy.

Any help is sincerely appreciated.

My Surface Pro 4 had this issue 11 years ago. I am surprised it is still a thing in 2026.

My Surface Laptop 6 for Business 13.5", Core Ultra 7, 16 GB RAM, 256 GB SSD was stuck in an automatic repair loop. It would reach the Microsoft logo stating “Preparing Automatic Repair”, but never loaded the Windows or Windows Recovery Environment. I have a working booting from a Windows installation USB that I know works on other machines which failed on this laptop. In UEFI, USB was confirmed as the first boot device, and Secured-core and Secure Boot were relaxed to allow third-party media. Neither change made a difference.

I then used Surface Recovery Image (Windows 11 Pro 25H2) that was downloaded for the device’s serial number and written to a USB stick on a Windows PC. The Surface then accepted the stick at boot, but hung at the Microsoft logo with the loading dots, and on some attempts powered off, like before.

To rule out some of the fault, the original SSD was removed and a replacement SSD fitted. With the new ssd, the device POSTed and correctly reported no boot option. However, booting the recovery USB still hung at the Microsoft logo. The same USB boots normally on other hardware, so the boot media, the original SSD and the UEFI boot configuration have all been ruled out.

The device POSTs and UEFI is accessible, but it cannot load any Windows environment from any source. The RAM is soldered to the motherboard, so a motherboard fault is the most likely cause, and it can’t be repaired in-house.

Has anyone had anything to do like this? And if so what was the fix?

This device is out of warranty.

Hey everyone, I'm thinking about buying a new tablet that I can use for drawing/animating. I currently have the old Apple iPad 6th gen and urgently need something current.
Since I have a PC myself and am comfortable with Windows, I was thinking about getting a Microsoft Surface tablet.
My question is: Which model is currently very popular and also equipped with Intel so that you can use programs like Krita, Photoshop, Clip Studio Paint, or OpenToonz?
My budget is around 1.2k €

Figured I’d make this review as these are the two mainstream devices in this niche of device and i had a chance to have both and return the one I didn’t like.

To preface i had a surface pro 6 for many years and grew attached to the form factor.

Summary: The Flow Z13 has higher highs and lower lows, but i went with it for my use case.

The Surface device is an absolute pleasure to pick up and hold as a tablet. It gives you a novel amazement that so much computing power can be fit in a small lightweight package. That sleek cold smooth metal is a pleasure to touch. The Z13 in comparison is awful tactilely to feel in your hands and heavy, but usable.

The surface has wayy better speakers and the display (IPS) is better to look at; the colors have a neutral vibrancy you’d expect of a flagship Microsoft/Apple tier device. The Flow Z13 in comparison has a blooming effect and more “desaturated” look despite which color profile you set it to.

With that said, the 180hz refresh rate of the Z13 along with 64gb of ram makes it seem way more responsiveness than the surface pro’s 120hz, and possible nearly-imperceptible stuttering due to the 16gb ram this one had. The Z13 just feels more responsiveness, fast, and is the better experience in this regard.

The large trackpad of the Z13 is a pleasure, and this surface didn’t have the Flex keyboard but I’m being mindful of this. The smaller trackpad of the regular keyboard on surface is honestly unacceptable in this day and age, it seems it’s only small to upsell you on the Flex keyboard.

Now I’m not sure if the flex keyboard is sturdier in regards to how the edges are glued on, but with my experience with the older surface pro 6 keyboard, these surface keyboards are a time bomb for the corners to delaminate and begin peeling after about 5-6 years, amplified by humid weather, though it seems the newer ones appear a bit sturdier in this regard. The Z13 however has a much sturdier feeling keyboard that I’m much more confident will not delaminate around the corners for a decade at least if at all.

Both have strong magnets, which imo is stupid because you have to be careful when yanking off the keyboard. The surface pro 6 i had had a weak magnet which is actually great, strong enough to hold onto tablet but you can yank it off without a care in the world about damage.

For future repairability, I like that the Z13 does not use any adhesive around the screen, it’s only clipped on, while the Surface has adhesive. Better than previous years, possibly necessary so it never creaks, but still makes me think of it as future e-waste if you gotta get past glue to open it.

Final word:

The Asus Flow Z13 has both higher highs but lower lows compared to the Surface. The Surface is aesthetically and tactilely pleasing, it’s a beautiful minimalistic device that’s a pleasure to own and use. The Lunar Lake processor is used in gaming handhelds, so it’s fully competent for older and light gaming.

Obviously the Z13 is stronger in raw power, giving you solid local LLM capability with at least 64gb ram and plays the latest AAA games with ease on 1440p. In receiving this power though, you trade those beautiful minimalist aesthetics and the tactile pleasure that comes with the surface. It’s a more crude machine.

I decided i valued the raw power more and returned the Surface, but if local LLM and gaming isn’t a concern to you, and you’d rather prefer a great tablet experience, lightweight, minimalist design and feel, you might be better suited for the Surface. You could still attach an eGPU and get on par for gaming.

I see Surface pro 11 with flex keyboard for $1200 at the lowest on eBay for 16gb ram, while i got this open box Z13 with 64gb ram for $1600 at Best Buy, so it was a no brainer for me to sacrifice the tactile pleasure of the surface for 4x more RAM, double the SSD in the Z13.

I’ve had my SB2 for a few years now and I loved it but the gpu had stopped working a few months ago due to both batteries being basically dead. As the title suggests, I was wondering if the dgpu would work again if i only replace the keyboard battery? I wouldnt wanna replace the tablet battery and risk damaging the display.

Hello! Has anyone who owns a Surface Headphones 2 notice that after a recent update to the Surface app their Surface Headphones has disappeared?

FYI My computer is a Surface Laptop Studio 2 running Windows 11 Pro.

This is reproducible if you are pairing to Bluetooth the first time or after unpairing and re-pairing. I've also discovered it will also sometimes disappear from the Surface app by updating to the latest version published on the Microsoft store.

Unrelated to this problem, I had to do a factory reset via the Surface BMR recovery image and after installing the latest Windows 11 and Microsoft store updates, the Surface Headphones will disappear from the app after it installs the latest update.

recently purchased a surface pro flex keyboard and I’ve heard it is a bit sensitive in the ribbon cable region from where it folds. I want to know what’s the best way to use it to keep it running as long as possible. Can’t throw this kind of money around for a type cover, this is literally arm and a leg price for a keyboard cover.

I won’t fold it around like in tent mode and strain it but can I keep it connected and just use it like folio cover when putting it in my bag or should I detach it completely and keep the keyboard separately inside to keep the ribbon cable straight.

Can keeping it connected and using it just like book cover cause the ribbon cable issue.