This is my first time building a 5v led project box for power and control with wled, and need some feedback and tips. I see some adding a fuse between the 5v out of the psu and the GLEDOPTO controller and then also fuses for power injection. How does this setup look so far? I plan on placing the controller on its side (where the pink paper placeholder is) and i have 4 jst connectors from BTF-Lighting coming out of the box, just need to add a power injection line (what awg is best for this? was planning 18awg) but notice the jst connectors are very thin (22awg?)

I’m going to be running 400 5v fairy leds inside around windows (4 strands of 100 leds with 3 extra channels for other lights i may add later. Any feedback would be helpful before I plug power in and connect the controller.

This portion of the software is Streamed through your computer to whatever devices you want. This little showcase shows off some of the new effects and transitions available. You can access any standard WLed effects, my custom ones, or you can make your own. Import milk drop presets or shadertoy code. This does generally target large/dense matrixes. But midi support and audio reactivity could create some really awesome light shows and live performances. Not shown in this video, haven’t made a demo for it yet, but super easy video streaming to any device with custom effects, open a locally hosted web page and use your phone as a webcam or use a regular webcam. Barely scratched the surface of what is possible.

just sharing some lighting design from my living room. having a ton of fun with WLED.

I am doing some brain surgery on my beloved An-Penta_Mini. I have the cover off and found a curious little 1mm pitch 2x3-pin connector. Doing a lot of Google legwork, I believe that is for an unreleased internal I2C temperature sensor board, designed to plug directly in. I have not yet had a chance to ring the lines out to see if I am even close. No issues with it at all. I'm just curious.

What says this august group? Thanks!

Very new to LED/WLED. I see the numbered Ds (D1-D30). Do those notate that it is addressable/data? There’s no data connection pads. I have a WLED ESP32. Thank you, sorry if these are stupid questions

Howdy all,

I have a GL-C-618WL with the ethernet and 4 contacts for controlling multiple strips. I have 3 strips hooked up and everything is working great.

I currently have a big 24V PSU power the Gledopto, and then going through the controller to power the strips. What I'd like to do is use a USB power supply to keep the Gledopto on, but have it switch off the big power supply on the AC side. I'm assuming in order to do this, I'd by-pass the positive terminal and only connect the ground from the PSU or the USB power supply combined with the PSU could damage the controller/strips?

Thanks in advance.

Hey everyone,

Super excited to share my first WLED build! It had a steep learning curve: I fried two bare ESP32 dev boards early on while figuring out power and logic wiring, so I switched to an Elite 6D setup with dedicated level shifters. Everything is now fully wired, stable, and powered.

Overall, movies look great! But on synthetic test patterns (like a rotating bar or moving box), I have two final calibration issues before calling it 100% done:

* Edge Overshoot and Trailing Light (Walk-Away Delay)

* Leading/Overshoot: When a rotating bar touches an edge, the light illuminates a few LEDs too far ahead onto the adjacent rail before the beam physically arrives.

* Trailing / Walk-Away Delay: In high-contrast or dark scenes, when a bright beam leaves a side, the LEDs take a split second to fade to true black instead of cutting off instantly.

* Orange Hue Appearing Pure Crimson Red

* On color wheel sweep tests, warm amber and rich orange slices trigger pure saturated red diodes on the wall, skipping the orange transition entirely.

Hardware and Power Setup:

* Screen: 120 inch fixed-frame projector screen

* LED Strip: SK6812 RGBW 5V (Natural White, ~4000K)

* Total LEDs: 503 total (Top: 161, Bottom: 159, Left: 92, Right: 91)

* Controller: ESP32 running WLED on an Elite 6D board (DDP / UDP port 4048)

* Server/Grabber: Raspberry Pi 4 running HyperHDR

* Capture Pipeline: HDMI 2.1 splitter downscaling to an MS2130 USB capture card (/dev/video0)

* Power: 5V 60A (300W) Mean Well-style PSU with inline fuses; power injection run to start, end, and midpoint corners (no voltage drop)

Current Software Settings:

* HyperHDR Video Capture: 1280x720 @ 60fps MJPEG, Hue set to 1 (avoiding the hardware 0-default bug), Saturation ~110, Contrast ~120

* HyperHDR Layout: 4% depth, 0% overlap, 1% corner gaps

* HyperHDR Smoothing: Linear/Infinite, 20-30 ms time, 50-60 Hz, Damping 35, Stiffness 200, Anti-flicker OFF, Min backlight level 0.0

* WLED Config: Transition Time set to 0 ms, Realtime timeout 2s

Has anyone running high-density SK6812 strips with WLED over DDP encountered this edge bleed or trailing delay? Are there specific WLED buffer options, network stream configurations, or HyperHDR interpolator settings you recommend to achieve instant, razor-sharp on/off edge tracking?

Thanks for any insights!

Hello

I’m trying to control the aldi Casalux rgb light.

There are 4 Pins:
- Gnd
- 5V
- RGB data
- pin of another “warm white” led next to every rgb led connected to ground via a mosfet.

I’m not able to identify the rgb LEDs and which WLED settings I have to use to also control the “warm white” led.

Any hints?

Hi !

I'm looking to control a RGB PWM light module (24V) from a WLED driver, but the case is quite small. I've checked some of the small drivers like the Iotorero (5 PWM + 1 Digital), but I was wondering if I anyone could recommend something even smaller ?

Thank you.

I’m controlling Govee Outdoor Pro lights with WLED, basically following this video to replace the controller. https://youtube.com/watch?v=0-M5c2VUl5A

Everything is working great on v0.15.4, but when I upgraded to v16.0.1 the lights noticeably flicker especially on lower brightness. What could be causing this?

60 lights, 100ft
36V 3A power supply
Settings I remember changing:
Brightness limiter is on
Max PSU current: 2900mA
Output: SM16825 RGBCW
Color Order: GRB

I mean never seen this type of led , they do switch colors half/half

Hi looking for recomendations for my build.

Build specs
U-Channel 5' sections
WS2811 12V LEDs every 3 inches
ESP32 for control mounted in center
80 feet total, 40' each direction
Power supply mounted in center
Control/power supply most likely in attic

I already have the ground floor of my home done using uchannel and WS2811 12V BTF Lighting that has been up for 2 years, and am looking for recommendations for the second floor. I found 5 foot sections of Uchannel and would like to pre build each 5 foot section with waterproof connectors soldered in place at each end. On the ground floor it was painful to get each section wired correctly so I want to avoid it this time if possible. I do want to solder or insert the bulbs while on a lader (again...). Has anyone done this with xConnect or similar connectors every 5 feet?

I may have an installer do the mounting of the sections so I would like to keep the connections as simple as possible. I was thinking of Xconnect every 5 foot uchannel, with some kind of other connector every 10 feet added for power injection. I know I probably don't need to inject every 10 feet, but I don't want too many u channels wired together... I am not sure what connector to use for the power injection every 10 feet

Questions
-Connector recomendations for the power injection every 10 feet?
-xConnect or other connector every 5 feet?
-Can the ESP32 do a continuous pattern with the control mounted in the center? (e.g. left to right across the entire upper floor)
-Other helpful ideas/tips?
-LED Brand? I don't see the BTF lighting pixel LEDs anymore.

Thanks!

I wanted to upgrade my go-to mad scientist costume (basically a lab coat with glowy things in the pockets) and ended up with this.

Two 16 neopixel rings, two potentiometers (one changes the speed of the pattern & the other changes the color palette), plus a button to cycle through different patterns. Running on a Seeed Xiao esp32c3 and powered by a rechargeable battery I salvaged from a vape.

I 3d printed diffusers with Inland blue glass PLA and hot glued everything to some lab goggles.

I did most of it with breadboard wires so it's easy to reconfigure/upgrade later, and also adds to the look.

Did I just make the most accurate TV backlight sync out there?

108 LEDs, each matching its own patch of the screen, changing within ~0.1 s.

No camera, no $200+ HDMI sync box.

I have a 2 set of Govee CL2. I have done a fair amount of Govee Wled conversions but not the CL 2.

I know its possible, Chris Maher has done the CL Pro's. THe pros use 24V and the 2's use 36V.

I am assuming that the booster box on the 2"s is also power injections and just cutting the signal wiare at that point would work.

Last year we have bought a house. After a year of hard work transforming the shape of the garden, we can finally start with making the garden cozy.

What are your favourite WLED projects from your garden? I need some inspiration

I still need to connect this to a Raspberry Pi so it can be controlled as part of a larger setup, including sensors and motors. Any help figuring out how to integrate everything would be greatly appreciated.

This represents 3/8 of the final sphere.

Some in-depth details about the sphere

• Diameter: 530 mm (outside diameter)
• LEDs: Approximately 2,200 WS2815B addressable LEDs (12 V, IP65, 60 LEDs per meter)
• LED layout:
  • 10 × 42 LEDs
  • 10 × 40 LEDs
  • 20 × 34 LEDs
  • 40 × 18 LEDs
• Power supply: Mean Well HLG-600H-12A, 12 V, 40 A
• Diffuser: Currently using painter’s tape for testing, which will eventually be replaced with satin-finish acrylic.
• Construction: The sphere is made from more than 240 individual 3D-printed parts that fit together to create its final shape.

The goal is to integrate the sphere into the larger gyroscopic installation, with synchronized lighting effects across the sphere and the three spinning rings. (picture in the comments)

sorry for the last bit was screwing around with blink effect

Just mixing Hyperion and LED fx still in a prototype right now like I got a wire and route my wires properly but

Hey everybody, Im planning on installing some LEDs beneath my carport, the facts are as follows:
- 4x 5m LEDs under every beam of the carport
- About 7m distance from psu and controller to the beginning of the LEDs

So now, would you go for 12v or 24v?
When going for 24v, how is the power usage calucated? e.g. for BTF Lighting WS2814 Strips, every 6 LEDs count as a segment, so in the wled calculator i add the amount of segments or leds?

I recently renovated our server room and wanted to do something a little more interesting with the lighting than just, lighting up the room.

So I turned the ceiling lights into a real-time visualization of our WAN traffic. Light waves travel along the cable runs to represent download and upload activity, and the lighting changes to indicate infrastructure alerts or other system states.

Is it useful? Not particularly. Is it fun to look at? Absolutely. 😂

That is something i wanted to try and it escalated quickly, so don't take it too seriously.

Edit: Videos of the testruns post installation are in comments now