Should have the parts designed and off to the cnc cutter very soon. I’m replacing the factory spacers with ones that hold the injectors. I found long tip injectors that will reach the bore at this angle and support up to 300hp. I’m also thinking of using the old coolant passage as the fuel return line with the regulator mounted below and between the intakes. I just need to remove and weld up the freeze plugs because I don’t trust them.

Car runs pretty decent temp wise, sitting maybe just a tad past the F in the middle. Within a minute or so, turning even the blower fan on pushes the needle to about halfway between F and Hot.

Separate but possibly related issue, the A/C is inconsistent. It works very well when it decides to. The condenser was recently replaced by the previous owner. Heater also does not blow hot air.

Oil temp also seems sporadic, comes and goes as it pleases. My next step for that is to replace the oil sender unit. Help please!

Hello everyone, I am looking to part ways with my dad's old gal. Not really trying to sell it in this sub (unless that's allowed and you're interested), but really want to understand what it's worth.

My dream was for my father and I to restore this car and then drive it at my wedding, but after $18k in parts and labor, we never got the job done and now life has gotten away from us. My mother is sick and my parents are moving, and I don't have the space or time for this car. It breaks my heart to give it up but I'd love to see it go to a good home.

We are really looking to just recoup the parts $ we put into it...which is $9,800. Is that a fair price?

I have invoices and spreadsheets for everything that was done to the car. All the work was done professionally by Loriann's Restorations LLC in Dalton, PA.

I have videos of the car driving and could provide additional photos. The car is located in Scranton, PA. Please reach out if you have any info, or if you or anyone you know would be interested in this car. Thanks!

Ive been scanning parts on my 1977 280z, there not the best. But with a little of Cad editing they can be perfect. Free. There is a donation link. But its not necessary at all. More will be coming. https://odysee.com/@Jake:31

$1500 for a mk1 Apex Engineered Track Attack rear package. With cat inspection tax.

Looks like I need springs, and modify for the diff I have… I have a modern Subaru Torsen LSD R180.

I've got an 81 280zx, current and last issue before getting it on the road, my AAR valve is bad. She fires off immediately after turning the key, then I need to go through a whole song and dance to get it to start moving on the temp gauge before it idles perfectly fine. The second the temp gauge moves it's happy as can be, before that I need to press and release the gas pedal over and over again. Troubleshot down to a bad idle air controller/AAR/whatever else you wanna call it. Question is, where tf do I find one? discontinued with nissan, 90 on ebay for sketchy parts, 500 for new old stock for the Z32 chassis PN. Anyone have a solution?

Picked up my first 240 and besides some electrical gremlins it’s in great shape. Found these connectors behind the gauges to be melted. There’s continuity through the connectors so I’m wondering what may have caused them to melt. I plan on replacing the connectors and want to ensure the problem isn’t elsewhere, or if it’s simply old contacts that corroded, increased the resistance and thus the heat.

I now have my long suffering project car on site with me, and it is time to get things put back together. First things first... I am checking the condition of the fuel lines, and gearing up to put the fuel tank back in there.

This is a 260z.

Electric fuel pump that goes just in front of the fuel tank... which one do I want I am getting conflicting advice.

Person who I will be working with recommends "A red bosch electric pump." And that isn't really a thing that exists as he describes it.

Competing AI advice recommends either a Facet 40104 (or 40105) *OR* a Carter P4070.

Does anybody have a recommendation?

Also... person I am working with is in favor of deleting the fuel return (blocking it off) and I am concerned with the wisdom of that as the fuel return seems to be one of the features that prevents vapor lock.

I am interested in your thoughts in that area as well!

(not my car, unfortunately)

After a year of hard work the exterior is almost perfect. Now refreshing the engine and interior; and may be the steering rack.

ig: akuma.280z

Got the baffle/spash shield extended and the 10AN fitting welded on for the breather. I tried to blend the AN fitting so it looks like it’s part of the casting. Way more work than a valve cover deserves but I’m pretty happy with the DIY results.

My 71 240 is making a terrible noise from the rear. My mechanic said I need to find a new rear hub. I’m not sure what part he’s talking about?

I’ll post some more pics in the comments here but I bought this car a few years ago in college. It had sat since 92’ and in between classes I strung it back to life.

Since it’s resurrection I’ve driven this car over 2,000 miles, including a 600 mile weekend rally.

This subreddit has been extremely helpful and supportive and I would like to say a huge thank you! For everyone who spills their knowledge on the green, may you be blessed with immaculate dashboards.

Up next is triple 45 DCOEs!

I'm trying to get in contact about some parts, the website is mostly broken and I haven't seen anyone mention buying from them recently.

I posted this on mechanics advice, might not have been the right place as I haven’t had any replies yet. I’m hoping there might be someone here who’s solved this problem before. Let me know if I should add any more photos or info below. Thanks for the help.

Matching colored wires near my ignition coil not plugged in? There a blue wire and a black wire plugged in together but also a blue and black wire different connectors not plugged in??

Let me know if you’re interested in these housings! Will definitely start manufacturing and selling them if there is enough demand!