My friends keep making fun of me driving a V70. I think it's really cool and fun to drive, can some people agree with me that Volvo is awesome???

Some of their R models are really surprisingly quick! And, the 850r exists

Having this issue with the hood of my Suzuki Swift. I know red paint can oxidize leading to dulling. Only have this issue on the hood; the rest of the body panels are fine. I have taken it to a couple of detailers to try to get it buffed out. However, currently it looks like this.

Is this something that I can fix myself? Or will I have to get it repainted?

Any tips are much appreciated!

My Bluetooth, AUX, and USB connections have all stopped working in my 2019 Chevy Cruze Premier.
I’m wondering if it could be a blown fuse, and I’m considering replacing it, but I don’t want to mess with anything unnecessarily.

I was wondering if such a setup exists specifically for older cars that didn't have anti lag tech.

Hoi ik heb een golf8 uit 2021 met een 1.5etsi dsg motor.
Bij elke schakelmoment hoor ik een fluit geluid en ook bij terug schakelen. Auto is naar de garage geweest en daar hebben ze de koppelingsplaten vervangen helaas heeft dat niet geholpen, ook de PCV klep is vervangen. Weet er iemand toevallig iets meer over??

Hello Everyone might just try to ask here as I've searched the internet for solutions but can't really tell what could be the problem of my car.

Just one morning my passenger side window doesnt go down anymore. It goes up and has a sound of the motor that it is going up but not down. the driver side instead can't 100% control the passenger window. it couldn't be the fuse as driver side window works perfectly fine. Gemini said it could just be the switch that does not make contact with down button of the switch, if so, then could be an easy replacement fix. can anyone with maybe electrical knowledge help me out. Thank you.

As the title says. I have a Varex Xforce variable exhaust valve set that's developed a rattle when not fully open or fully closed. I've taken the servo off the valve housing to have a look and also managed to get a flashlight into the muffler to actually see the valve rattle. It appears the issue is play between the mating teeth of the gears on the servo and the valve base.

Other than warrantying the valves which will be an additional hassle as they're welded at an awkward angle - does anyone know of any high temp grease or paste I could use to take up the play between the two gears that might dampen the rattle?

TIA

I had trouble with the car today, it's 2009 VW Passat B6 CBAB. I was driving and I noticed that the coolant temperature was 120 C degrees. So I wanted to stop, but there was not exactly a place where to. So I was driving a little bit further and the temperature started to go down somewhat quickly. But I stopped the car. Waited about 10 minutes. As I was over the half way to work I started to drive again, the car had cooled down a bit to about 90-100 degrees (90 is standard temperature). But then it was okay for a bit, it was keeping the temperature at 90. Then bit later it started to raise again to about 120. Stayed there for like 15 seconds and then went back down to 100. Stayed at 100 for some time and raised again but not so much and then went back to 90 where it stayed more or less for 10 minutes. I was driving somewhat steadily but then had to reduce the speed, go around the roundabout and accelerate. Then it started to overheat again to 130, I stopped the car again immediately for about 10 minutes. The temperature was at 100-110. I started to drive again and it was holding at about 90 and then raised a bit again but not much like to 110 and went back down to 90 for some time and then I parked the car. I had no time to check anything then, so when I get back I will take a look at the fluid level.

One thing perhaps I noticed was that when I was on the highway, I was driving slower in general but the car liked that I was in a lower gear with higher rpm, then the temperature was keeping steady. But I was not really able to fully test this if it really was so or not.

Any possible solutions for this?

I recently got a 280z from my uncle as a restoration project and I'd like to make it a fuel economic daily that also has enough power to get out of its own way, what would be a good engine to throw in it and how would I go about doing the mounts on it since its a uni body?

3 months ago i bought a 2019 chevy trax from a ford dealership with 133k miles on it , 3 months later my engine light came on . I took it to a dealership for a diagnostic and it turn’s out my transmission computer is failing , car drives perfectly fine but without a stable transmission computer it sometimes fails to switch gears and my steering wheel locks up because it cant communicate with the engine , forcing me to pull over and restart my car . —-Long story short , i owe 7k on the car and the mechanics i went to are charging 2k+ on a fix which i will not have no time soon in today’s economy . I just cannot afford it , iv’e been told that i might have to take the loss and find a car with my negative equity . Im just bummed , it hasn’t even been 3 months and now im on the verge of loosing my car to mechanical problems .

What options would you take if you knew you couldn’t afford a 2k+ fix ? I just don’t know what to do other than drive the car until it completely fails then try to find something else . Life sucks .

kind of an update of my last post about a weird squeaking noise coming from my car, but i looked at my wheels and noticed quite a bit of rust on the rotor(?). could this be the cause? regardless, how bad is it to drive like this?

So I have a Honda Civic 2012 and the D for drive is flashing with a green light and my check engine light is on. My RPM is also shooting up very quickly. If I go above 45 mph I cannot get it lower than 3. Highway speeds it will go up to 4 no matter how much I try to let off the gas pedal. The RPM just will not stay down. I also notice my car dragging especially when trying to slow down and after accelerating after remaining stopped.

Another important thing to note is that before all of this, I noticed for over a year that when I went above 2 rpm I would notice a grinding sound but it never caused any issues in driving or anything, just a noise.

All of this happened shortly after I stupidly drove over a curb. It was dark, one of my headlights was out (I have recently fixed that) and my window was extremely fogged up. I was trying to go around the speed bump but I wasn't at the speed bump yet so I hit a curb before it. Yeah dumb move, but shit happens.

Someone said it's possible I could just need fluid but I don't know. With all of the factors I think it could be more serious. I would hope that's it because that would be much better for my wallet. Especially considering my muffler is also acting up.

Hey everyone,

I just bought a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE on facebook marketplace, it runs pretty great but the only problem is my coolant keeps disappearing without a trace. I have filled it up to the max fill line 3 times in the past 2-3 weeks. Every single time I fill it, it completely empties within a few days. I’m worried I might’ve have accidentally damaged the head gasket because it overheated without me noticing. Today, before I filled it with coolant again, it completely shut off on me when I stopped for a red light, i had to restart it to get it moving. It was also was super shaky while idling.

What are the obvious signs of a blown head gasket I can look for? And how much would i be able to sell the car if it was the issue? I paid 4k for it and there’s no way Ill be able to afford replacing the head gasket

2012 Corolla, 1.8L, about 120k miles. It's my daily commuter. Lately it sometimes shakes at red lights once warmed up, but it's much less noticeable once I'm moving. The check engine light came on a couple days ago and stays on without flashing.

I scanned it with carpal obd scanner on my phone and got P0171 (system too lean). The app listed intake leaks and the MAF sensor as possible causes. I checked the intake hose between the airbox and throttle body. No obvious cracks, and the clamps seem tight.

I'm only comfortable with basic stuff like changing the air filter. I found a few threads where replacing sensors didn't fix it, so I'd like to check what I can before buying parts.

Hello all
I got this a couple months ago as a way to learn more about cars
I’m currently trying to figure out why it feels like a kayak on stairs but I think the springs are to low to do anything
I don’t currently have coilover tools but I’m working on getting some

Any help and tips are appreciated
Thank you 😊

I’m building an engine simulator. Does this sound like a flat-six to you?
I feel like it’s missing some of that high-pitched tone, but I’m curious what you guys think.

Hey so I just bought my first vehicle and its a 1999 Ford F150 with a V8 5.4 liter engine. I was just wondering what are some common problems that I should be looking out for and just general advice when driving a truck, any help would be greatly appreciated.

I’m looking around for a new car and most likely looking for a bmw, I came across a m440i xdrive m performance. I was wondering if anyone here is familiar with those series and if the engine are good or to avoid? Thanks for the help!

Just bought a 2022 Tiguan SE 4Motion with 39k miles on it today. I drove it and fell absolutely in love with it! Called my parents after I bought it and my dad is now telling me I made a horrible mistake and that they are nothing but issues. Anybody wanna reassure me that I didn’t just make a huge mistake? 🥺

I have a 2019 Smart Fortwo 453 Coupe. I ordered replacement spark plugs and the tools listed as suitable for it from Autodoc, but I've been putting the job off for three or four months.

The reason probably sounds silly: I read, or ChatGPT told me, that the car has to stand for at least 24 hours before changing the plugs. I use it every day, so finding a full day when I don't need to drive has kept me from getting started.

I want to check whether that advice is actually correct for this car. Does it really need a fixed 24-hour wait, or does the engine just need to be completely cold? Could I drive home in the evening, park it overnight, and change them the next morning before starting the engine? How do you judge when it's sufficiently cooled down?

I'd particularly appreciate experience from someone who's serviced a petrol 453, or a reference to the manufacturer's procedure. Are there model-specific reasons for waiting that long? I'm asking about the cooling requirement, not looking for permission to remove plugs from a hot engine or skip the proper procedure.

I haven't specified the exact engine variant, mileage or transmission here, so please flag if those details change the answer. I don't want to guess specifications. I've also asked in AskMechanics for a second opinion. Thanks!

Hello! Sorry if this isn't the place to ask but it seems the most fitting

Despite other's views, I'm a huge fan of speed chimes in many older cars but I'm not savvy enough to fully install one into my car. Are there any speedometers that plug in or something that I can get to play a sound file? Or some other way.

I own a 2023 Subaru impreza if that helps as well.

What I'm referring to is the 2005-2008(W164)
Mercedes ML320CDI and the 2006-2010(7L
Facelift) VW Touareg 3.OTDI, both automatic and 4x4 obviously. Here's my concern:

I need a car for towing, and I'm in the Balkans where accessibility and parts are best for German cars, but if you guys have any other suggestions around the same price range I would consider anything.

I'm having a hard time choosing between these 2 cars, so I would appreciate help with advice and first hand experience with reliability, capability etc.