Kenwood 1057xr

Audio Control DM 810 DSP

Alpine amp / Fosgate T1000

Focal Flax all the way around

Sundown SA 8's

(After hours of dinking with the 810 I got rid of the floor noise/ still going to replace as soon as my wife is done being mad about the money spent)

What’s up guys, my amp recently started to output way less sound. It would heavily chop and distort at higher volume that it previously had no problem producing. I got a sub “professionally” installed and thought nothing of it cause the sub worked fine. Turns out the guy left ground wire exposed, the other sub wire fell out, hit the exposed ground, and set my original mono amp on fire.

This was just one issue with the sub. But now my factory jbl amp is the problem. It started playing like shit and only worked on low volume (I’m a sucker for loud music). Did all the tests and they pointed to the amp itself. Opened up half my god damn car and found this lovely setup.

For context, I’ve done this exactly once before.
Here’s what I have so far:
2x kicker comp r 10"
Audio control epic 1000w
Audio control lc2i pro
Stinger wiring
Ported box
Wood and other fabrication tools (to mount my amp and lc2i in a not ugly way hopefully)
And finally about 6 hours of my life. Any recommendations, tips, or issues yall see? Thanks.

Ps. Forgot to put a picture of the box I’m actually putting the subs in in this post, they are NOT going in that long ahh box

I just got these 2 jl audio 10w3 subs off Facebook and I’m having trouble finding information about what I need. I believe each sub is 500w and 4 ohms. What amps will work these and do I need some specific type of wiring??

A few of you asked for an Android version back in August and again under the iOS update ( original post). It's on Google Play now. Same idea as on the iPhone: play a sweep through your stereo, record it with the phone, get a value for every EQ control your car actually has.

The math is the same as on iOS (both versions run against the same reference recordings), but not every iOS feature has made it over yet.

How it works:

1. Pick your car or head unit

2. Set the level with pink noise

3. Run one sweep

4. Read the value for every slider your stereo has

What's in the Android version:

- EZ Tuning: the four steps above. Profiles for Tesla Model 3/Y (standard and premium audio) and VW/Audi MIB3, plus the classic bass/mid/treble set.

- Expert mode: frequency response against a target curve, delay and SNR, parametric or fixed band EQ with 6 to 31 bands, export as a table or JSON.

- RTA: live 1/3 octave analyzer on pink noise, with the target curve as an overlay.

- Measurement mics: a UMIK-1 plugs straight into USB-C and records while playback stays on Bluetooth, with its calibration file applied. The line under the chart shows which input actually recorded.

- Every measurement is saved and can be opened again.

Not there yet: the EQ Designer (measures what each slider of your head unit actually does) and the EQ test. Both come with the next update. Room mode stays iPhone only for now.

Where I need your help:

I tested everything on a Samsung S23. There are thousands of Android devices, and the built-in mics differ a lot between them. If you also own a UMIK or another measurement mic, measure the same spot once with each and post both curves. A handful of those would show whether a per-phone correction is realistic. Android Auto is untested too, so if you run it with AA connected, tell me what the line under the chart says for output and input.

The free version covers 250 Hz to 10 kHz and the bass/mid/treble controls. A one time purchase adds the full 20 Hz to 20 kHz range, the vehicle profiles, parametric EQ and external mics. No subscription, no account, no ads.

Can anybody name one thing that a rear fill is good for im def on team no fill now.

The subwoofer in the pictures is 10" used as a reference point as I don't have an 8" sub available to test fit.

So I want to build a custom fiberglass box sealed in my wheel well.

And I'm kinda stuck between getting a 10" or 8" sub. I've done a ruff estimate at 20L. Even a 12" is fine, but I don't think it will fit with the volume, maybe If it's a slim sub.

I will have the sub at the same level as in the pictures, and a grill over it in case the trunk floor gets too much weight and presses down on the sub.

I will choose the amp after I've chosen the sub.

Car: BMW E91 2007model pre facelift.

Thanks in advance

I also don't have any pictures with a ruler.

Would it be worth it to change my passive 2 way setup to an active setup?
Speakers: Morel Maximo mk2s
Amp: D4S Jp84(would not recommend if anyone was wondering floor noise is very high)
Head unit: Sony Ax-4000

I’m not looking to fully get a dsp in the current moment. I’m happy with the time alignment on my HU. Would I notice any improvement changing from passive to active while using time alignment? I definitely noticed a huge change from using it alone.

Anybody know how hard these bump in a single cab? Or does anybody else have any other recommendations?? Thanks.

I bought a low mileage Elantra N. Not a single mod anywhere, no witness marks in the engine bay, but ... there's these holes and paint ground off in the spare tire well.

What would the prior owner have mounted here?

I have spent time looking online for an answer, but I cannot get a clear one on a mounting point. E36 97 M3/4/5. Even AI couldn't give me a clear one.

Thought I'd have a little fun while carving pumpkins this year!

Hey everyone

I recently bought my first truck, a 2018 GMC sierra 1500 SLE. I want to put subwoofers in it but have no clue where to start so I can here for advice.

First things first, my father used to have subs and is giving them to me. 3, 8 inch JL WOs. I tested them with a multi meter so I think they still work.?

Next I would need an Amp he told me? What amp would be compatible with my truck and these subs. He told me I could possible blow out my speakers if I got the wrong one? I have no budget but would like to keep it decently cheap.

And finally let me know if I missed anything crucial or need more details to help me out thanks I am a total noob so any advice is appreciated!

They were a birthday present from my mom for my 16th birthday lol. Had them before I had a car to put them in!

Anyone have experience with llj custom harness. I bought this for a 2022 yukon slt with factory bose . Juat u aure how to connect it.

Just started putting my system together. Excited to have this finally put in, just still need to find some space for a couple of components.

I’m trying to do some research on a decent radio with CarPlay to install in my 2016 Honda Fit EX.

I’d like to keep the steering wheel controls, lane watch camera & backup camera. I understand there’s additional accessories required to make them work with aftermarket radios.

Looking to get some sources for these things. I don’t have $1000 to drop on all of this so I’m balling on a budget. Any good cheaper options?

(Preferrably a unit with a volume knob, NOT buttons. I hate how Honda did the volume control in 2015-17 Fits)

Hi, I've recently gotten a backup camera installed on my car, and had the opportunity to try it out for myself today. I know I cannot expect a top tier camera for what I paid (less than $50 for the camera), but comparing this one with the one in the family suv, I feel like this is too low angled? There are no guidelines appearing either, which the box says it has.

The installer says that the angle is normal. It is on the N format, the only one that displays anything.

tldr; is this the proper angle for a backup camera

edit: thank you all for the answers, I will be taking it back for an adjustment

I’m relatively new to the car audio world,I currently have a skar sdr12 (600rms) I’m wanting to upgrade.after shopping around I’ve been left with a choice of a single 15 with 1,250 rms or a 2 12s 600rms each and I can’t decide which one to go with,I have no limit for enclosure size as I don’t use my trunk but I do have a power limit of 1,200 watts as I’m still on a stock alternator. Any advice or recommendations on wich to go with would be appreciated.

Hello everyone

I recently installed a hertz dp 4.300 mono amp and a hertz CBA 250 active subwoofer.

I understand how to set the gain with a multimeter on the amplifier but not sure how I would set the gains on the powered sub using the multimeter as there is no speaker out puts to set the meter probes on

Can anyone tell me other than the obvious overall ammount of air 2 12 can push what the benefit would be to moving to 2 12

I’ve changed all the other speakers in the car and it’s amazing, crystal clear audio and relatively punchy bass but now the sub feels like it’s let’s the overall sound down as it does struggle a bit with the really low end frequencies