Been chipping away at the A-pillars, got about 25hrs in them so far. Still need to make a cover for the bolt hole at the top.

Also started work on the new amp rack (cut out new board, mounted up the amps, and designed a new wire manager (for 1/0)

Well, fingers crossed this winds up being a decent marketplace find. Wanted to upgrade the speakers in my 2012 Ram 1500 with the factory alpine system. I found some unopened infinity reference 6x9 for $80 CAD, and then got the matching older Gen infinity 3.5" mids. Was looking for some cheap 6x9s for the rear, and saw what was listed as pioneer A-series for $65. Turns out these were in the box.

Hey everyone! I’ve been working on custom firmware for the mObridge A2B and wanted to share it in case it helps anyone else that may be having various issues that the company not fixed yet.

The current release fixes a wake-up issue that could leave the system without sound, and with ignition-on and shutdown pops. It’s been working well on my DA-G2 Pro A2B for the last while.

Future plans include a real rear-fill algorithm, ability to map rear park assist chimes to rear speakers, Dolby Pro Logic 2 surround decoding similar to a Riven DSP, and dynamic EQ curves based on vehicle speed and volume. Those are still planned features—not part of this release.

The firmware download, installation instructions are here:
https://github.com/leland331/mobridge-a2b-custom-firmware
⁠
This is an unofficial project, so please check compatibility and back up your settings before updating. If you try it, I’d be interested to hear how it works for you!

Wanting to downgrade my radio to a cassette deck and ordered this head unit thinking it came with a harness sadly it doesn’t and there’s no refunds. Does anyone know where to find a new one or would a local Car AV be able to make one? This is a Sony XR-C450RDS I bought a harness for a Sony XR-450 and didn’t fit :( already got the other side of the harness for my 06 grand marquis thanks for the help.

Was thinking about getting this for my son for Christmas. He drive a 2004 Honda accord. I've been out of the game too long and since the mtx blud thunders I used to have don't exist I'm just best guessing what would be good. I don't want insane power I just want a good clean sounding setup. Any advise would be appreciated

Ok so from what ive gathered by my reaearch the only 3 ways to truely properly crimping large wire ferruels are with these 3 tools, one of which is super redundant to use, one only goes up to 1/0 or 50mm wire, and the last one costs just as much as my entire car audio system 😂 please someone come up with the same style square or hexagonal ferruel crimpers like the ones meant for small wire specifically for 4-4/0 wire, you could even sell it for like 100 bucks and we would probably still buy it

Got this old school CAP that came with a setup I bought. Dont know too much about it and can’t seem to find any real detail about it online other than it’s discontinued and was about $500 new. I’m debating should I trade/sell it or am I sitting on a hidden gem and don’t even know it?

Hi guys,
So i have my front doors sound deadened with butyl rubber. I will be repainting my car with a different color, is it ok if i remove the sound deadening material and reuse it again? I technically can repaint the car without removing it and have it cover the old paint but I don’t want to do that. Any feedback is appreciated thanks!

I’m looking to run my Morel component system active.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210MAXIM6X/Morel-Maximo-6-MK-II.html

This is my first time doing active, and I just have a few questions. First, for the tweeter, should I keep the crossover the same as it came from factory crossover(4000 hz)? Or can I lower it by mabye 500 and then match the mid ranges crossover to it?
Any other tips or recommendations?

After taking my door apart to sound deaden it, I realized where the speaker mounts to and the whole panel is some type of plastic. I will still be fully sound deadening the outer door panel fully but for the plastic part, how would I go about doing it? Should I just skip it? I have a 2011 Hyundai Elantra. My speaker is mounted to a plastic 6.5 adapter not pictured.

Buying my first car and want rave-level bass, but will a 500W RMS sub make the interior rattle so much it ruins the sound? sorry for shitty images

Hey everyone! I recently started a business doing ambient lighting and CarPlay installs, and I’m trying to improve my installation methods. My biggest challenge is finding a reliable, cost-effective way to tap into door wiring harnesses for power without cutting or soldering wires. I currently use Posi-Taps, but they can loosen over time and get expensive. I’ve also heard Scotchlok connectors aren’t great. What products or methods do you guys recommend

Currently have 2 12” rockford fosgate p3 in stock ported box 1200w rms 2400w peak, looking to get something that will hit lows better, but still sound good in the 38-40hz range. Was looking at getting a sundown SA V2 12” single 1250w rms 2500 peak and pairing it with a tru spec box made for the sundown sub. Would this be a worthy upgrade or should I stick with my current set up?

(Yes I used ChatGPT to create this description...)

I'm trying to add a bass shaker under my driver's seat, but I'm getting an extremely weak signal from the car audio system. The setup works great when I connect my phone to the mini amp over Bluetooth, so I'm trying to figure out what's going wrong with the factory audio signal or line output converter.

Car: 2011 Audi A4 Quattro Avant with the factory audio system and amplifier.

Equipment:

• Existing subwoofer: Rockville SS8P powered under-seat subwoofer (Located in my trunk)
• Bass shaker: Dayton Audio BST-2, 4 ohms, 35W RMS
• Mini amplifier: Nobsound NS-01G Pro
• Line output converter: Scosche LOC2SL-WM
• RCA-to-3.5mm AUX cable between the LOC and mini amp
• 12V power tapped from the existing subwoofer's power feed, with a 2A inline fuse for the LOC

Wiring setup:

The Rockville was previously installed by my friends dad who is experienced with car audio. Its audio input is tapped into factory wiring in the rear of the car, around the factory amplifier wiring. I tapped the Scosche LOC into the same speaker-wire connections.

The Scosche has:

• Yellow connected to fused +12V (In the photos its disconnected)
• Solid black connected to the same ground as the Rockville
• White and white/black connected to the left speaker positive/negative pair
• White RCA output connected to the Nobsound AUX input

I'm currently using only the left speaker input pair. I've disconnected the right input pair after testing it, and connecting both channels to the same speaker wires didn't help.

Symptoms and troubleshooting:

• The Rockville continues working normally.
• The Dayton BST-2 and Nobsound work very well when the Nobsound receives audio over Bluetooth.
• When receiving audio through the Scosche from the Audi, the shaker barely produces any vibration. It'll play music, just very quietly with lots of static.
  
• The Scosche's remote bass knob is connected and affects the output. Turning it all the way down stops the music reaching the shaker.
• I've adjusted the LOC's gain controls.
• The Scosche's power measures 11.97V between yellow and black.
• The white RCA output carries audio; the red output doesn't with only the left speaker input connected, which I understand may be expected.
• There is some hum/static when the music is quiet.

My question: Could I be tapping into the wrong type of factory-amplifier output, or is there something about the Audi's factory amplified/differential speaker outputs that could cause the Scosche LOC to produce such a weak signal? How would you recommend verifying the correct signal and diagnosing the LOC before replacing anything? I feel like I've troubleshot everything I can think of.

I'd really appreciate any suggestions. I'm trying to avoid randomly buying more parts or tearing apart the wiring again without knowing what to test next. Thanks.

I thought cleaning up a dash cam wire in my Civic would be a 20 minute job until I pulled the weather strip back and saw the A-pillar airbag warning staring at me. Most videos just tuck the cable into the gap and move on, but I do not love the idea of routing a wire anywhere that could affect a side curtain airbag. I would rather do the annoying version once than make a clean looking install that is unsafe. If you have done this properly, did you remove the A-pillar trim and route behind the airbag path, or is there a safe channel along the door seal that does not interfere with deployment?

I got 4 of these 6.5" pioneer speakers out of a car shell that I bought (parcel shelf and front doors) and got given this MTX Thunder 5500 Subwoofer, I believe the speakers are 75w RMS and the sub 350w?

What's the best way to power it all? I'll do all of the install myself, 5 channel sounds easiest, I was thinking the Pioneer D9705, but is 4ch and mono significantly better? Or is the best middle ground to get a 6 channel amp and bridge two for the sub?

I might be moving the battery to the boot, not sure yet, but I also want to mount the amp under a front seat.

Thanks!

If I use a 1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms amp but its being used for a 4ohm sub (600 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms) does the wiring from my battery need to be rated for the 1000w or the 600w?

What i currently have installed in my car is 4awg ofc that was powering an 800w amp at 2ohms.

--The amp im looking at is the JL Audio JD1000/1

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698363/JL-Audio-JD1000-1.html?tp=35834

The new sub is the JL audio 13tw5v2-4

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13613TW524/JL-Audio-13TW5v2-4.html

alright hooked up the epic 1500 and i’m having some issues, i bought it used. before i go buying another cable or another knob i need some input, so with the cable it came with nothing happens, the light doesn’t even turn on. i bought an rj11 phone cable from the home depot and i get a light but no control over the sub, now after some reading i see in the manual it says it uses an rj14, bad cable or bad knob?

I bought this Jeep last March and the dealership had this unit installed literally the morning of. It’s been okay up until now. Now, the touchscreen is unresponsive until I hit the reset button. It will work fine from that point until I turn the vehicle off. After which it becomes unresponsive again until I start the whole process over again. Any ideas?

Hi everyone!

I'm having trouble with my Knup KP-RA916 Android head unit. It's stuck on the Android boot logo and won't finish booting.

Device information:

- Brand/Model: Knup KP-RA916

- Platform: K2401

- Motherboard: CM215_MB_V1.4_20241018

- Firmware: PlatformVER.K24 — v0.01

- Advertised Android version: Android 15

- RAM/Storage: 2GB / 64GB

What I've already tried:

1. Pressing and holding the physical RST button for 15–20 seconds. The device simply restarts and gets stuck on the Android logo again.

2. Completely disconnecting the power supply and reconnecting it.

3. Connecting an Android smartphone through USB and testing different USB modes. No change.

4. Investigating USB ADB recovery, but I haven't been able to establish an ADB connection.

5. Inspecting the motherboard. I found pads labeled TX, RX, GND, UBOOT, DM, DP, and 5V, but haven't connected anything to them.

6. Looking for a physical button combination to access Android Recovery, without success.

I also have another identical KP-RA916 that works perfectly, with the same hardware and firmware.

What I'm trying to find out:

- Is there a way to enter Recovery Mode on this specific motherboard?

- Can I perform a factory reset without accessing Android?

- Is USB firmware recovery supported on the K2401/CM215 platform?

- Can I extract or back up the firmware from my working unit and use it to recover the stuck one?

- Has anyone successfully recovered a CM215-based Android head unit?

I don't mind losing installed apps or data. I just want to get the head unit working again.

Any guidance, documentation, compatible recovery tools, or firmware information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Hello noob here

I need help figuring out how to wire power to the CMOS 230LP. I have this ACC red wire but i do not know where to put it in my head unit. I have a kenwood ddx5707s and I do not know where to put these wires. Do they go in the head unit?

Alot of video guides are confusing me because this is "different" as I am not sure if i still need to wire anything to my back up light

I have a little project car and one of the things I am trying to do is branch out into things I haven't done before. I am thinking I want to install a sub and amp. From my research it doesnt seem that hard. That being said...

Any tips for finding good deals on facebook? I want to save money but i dont want to get ripped off. My car is pretty small so I don't need anything crazy. I just want the music a little louder. What should I be looking for? Specific specs, models, brands? After that, any tips for install would be great. I'm pretty good mechanically with cars but anything electronics makes me nervous. Anything with wires is basically black magic to me. But I'm trying to branch out!

If it matters it's a 2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse