My friends keep making fun of me driving a V70. I think it's really cool and fun to drive, can some people agree with me that Volvo is awesome???

Some of their R models are really surprisingly quick! And, the 850r exists

Having this issue with the hood of my Suzuki Swift. I know red paint can oxidize leading to dulling. Only have this issue on the hood; the rest of the body panels are fine. I have taken it to a couple of detailers to try to get it buffed out. However, currently it looks like this.

Is this something that I can fix myself? Or will I have to get it repainted?

Any tips are much appreciated!

I did the same exact procedure on both headlight. alcohol clean first, sanded 400-600-100-1500-2000, polished with a microfiber polish pad, and then clear coated.

Hello, noticed on my way to work that my engine sounds different. Everything seems to work and shift properly, but something feels off. Drove from Johnson city to Memphis this morning and it seemed the noise got worse the closer I got to Memphis. It’s a 2020 Impreza manual with 145k miles.

Was quoted $4500 . Is that reasonable?

I have had my manual, FWD hot hatch since new and it will be 20 years old soon. Early on, I spent thousands on mods early on - coilovers, exhaust, bigger turbo, big brake kit, LSD, and more. It's the car that I learned everything on and installed almost everything myself. Because of all the travel I did for work all the time, it barely has any miles on it. A few years ago, I bought a Toyota truck as a daily and as a second car, which I really enjoyed for its versatility for our winters here. And, it only needed oil changes and prop shaft lubrication. No drama.

But, since I no longer commute to work or travel for work, most of my driving is now done on the weekends when I work my second job where I drive 3 to 4 hours a day.

My car is still in mint condition, no rust, no mechanical issues, but things here and there are starting to need work. It needs new coilovers, the sagging headliner fixed, and the A/C fixed. The repairs would cost around 6K because of the high end coilovers that I refuse to compromise on. However, it made me realize that these same coilovers would cost exactly the same on a more modern and more capable car if I were to spend that type of money (or just to spend the money towards a new car). The thing I value most in a car are its driving dynamics first. The other realization is that this FWD platform won't benefit from any more power or handling upgrades.

Lately, I wondered if it made sense to consolidate both cars for something newer that I could drive daily. But also, the beauty of having two cars makes it easy to have a weekend car that is purely impractical too, such as a real sports car instead of a hot hatch if I decide to sell my hot hatch. In that case, I have been considering an 86/BRZ with a manual for an honest, amazing handling, analog, rear wheel drive experience.

What would you do?

2016 MK VII 1.4 TSI Golf on a cold engine

Cold engine on a MK VII 2016 Golf 1.4 TSI

Most modern cars have a display showing the outside air temperature, but how does the sensor not factor wind chill?

Need some help; I bought a 2020 Toyota Yaris from Stevenson Toyota, in April 1921, it had 400 miles. It is common for me to go to the eight days without driving my car. I replaced the battery three months ago, the terminals, etc. Last week I came out after three days of my car sitting and it would not start. No response whatsoever from the engine, which requires the brake to be pressed to start. The only activity was the key icon and the door open icon on the dash. Tried two different battery, pack, starters, and two different volt meters to test the battery, including the cold, crank amps. No go. Towed it into Toyota, and they quoted me $435 to diagnose the problem – two hours of diagnostic labor. The next day, the car was in the shop, but sat for three or four days until the appropriate tech got back. Once he was there, they performed a diagnostic and said that there was a missing fuse, and were confused about how it could go missing. I said it was the fuze that served for the brake pedal to light up the tail lights, which relay a message back to the ignition so that it could start. Despite the problem happening for multiple tries, and multiple delay delays before Toyota popped open the ignition panel, they said this was the fix, and replaced that fuse.

When I picked up the car, I was told the battery was dead, and they had to jumpstart it to bring it around. The technician tried to spin a story about how common it is for batteries to drain and go dead. If left sitting for as little as three days, which I knew was BS. I’ve done about that for years, my family and I’ve had many Toyotas, and I’ve literally never heard of that. Unless the battery has a parasitic drain of some sort, that would never happen. And again, battery was tested.

I drove the Toyota home from the dealership, made sure the battery was charged for 25 minutes before turning off the car. Three days later, I went to start the car again, and it’s the same problem. Between the battery drain story, Toyota not knowing my battery was dead until I arrived to pick it up, and the $219 diagnostic/$130 tow bill, I do not have confidence in Stevenson Toyota to properly fix this.

Does anyone know if this could be an ignition or electrical problem? My key fob also does not respond to lock/unlock the doors, though the two dash lights tell me there is connection and power from the battery. Any input would help, including whether or not, I should go somewhere else to have the problem diagnosed.

Thanks to all!

The ol good classic nail in the tire. I put in my spare tire for now but is this too close to the sidewall? Is this an easy patch job or would I need to buy new tire?

I have a 2011 Toyota auris sr in white and
Im trying to decide between black and white action sport seat covers or orange and black
The inside of the car has some orange stitching on the seats and door cards already hence why im thinking the orange would match
Also thinking of doing orange calliper paint too
Let me know what your thoughts are
Thanks!

A few days ago, the check engine light came on in my 2006 Civic with about 230k miles on it. Along with this, the D (Drive) indicator light began flashing. i use my car for work and could not immediately stop driving for the day, but after the car was turned off and back on again, the D indicator remained solid (though the engine light stayed on). About 25 minutes later, the D light began flashing again.

After returning home, i stopped driving the car and was able to use a loaner for a couple days while i researched the issue. From what i'm seeing, the flashing Drive light indicates a problem with the transmission. i just had the car serviced in August and they had indicated nothing wrong with the transmission fluid, but i checked it myself (after driving the car for 20 minutes to warm it up) just in case and can see it's full but a dark-brown color, indicating it probably needs to be replaced. Interestingly, the check engine light turned off after i checked the fluid level, and it didn't come back on after driving for another 15 minutes or so.

There are no other symptoms that i'm concerned about - no lurching or late shifting, no grinding or unusual noise coming from the engine. i'm thinking i can just get the fluid drained and replaced, but the mechanic i called can't get me in for about a week.

my question is, how concerned should i be about driving the car until i can get the fluid replaced? Is it something where driving it could risk destroying the transmission, or an i safe to use it for work over the next few days until i can get the fluid change done? i'd rather not have to try and arrange another loaner car if i can avoid it.

hi there! kind of a bizarre situation, but I own a 2012 toyota camry, and somehow the line that connects from the front of my car to the trunk rusted and broke… so the release lever does not work, and i cannot open my trunk.

was changing out my license plate bulbs yesterday and realized that the little “trunk escape” lever (that’s definitely NOT what that’s called, but ANYWAYS) does work though!

so after 5+ years of not being able to open my trunk, i am intrigued to see if there is something i can buy that would be able to pull that lever… say maybe from pushing a button? or something?

and before you ask! YES! i have taken it to multiple mechanics who all have stressed how time consuming and expensive it would be to run a new line from the front to the back.

i know NOTHING about cars, but i just wanted to see what y’all thought? please be nice! i am not looking to fight! i’m normal hahah

THANK YOU

Hey guys, this is the broken exhaust flexi pipe on my Kia ceed 2007, I’ve been driving with it for about 3 months and nothing has happened, is it ok to continue to drive on it? I am scheduled to get it fixed but that won’t be for another few weeks, there doesn’t seem to be any smell or anything coming from it it’s just loud

I was wondering if such a setup exists specifically for older cars that didn't have anti lag tech.

My Bluetooth, AUX, and USB connections have all stopped working in my 2019 Chevy Cruze Premier.
I’m wondering if it could be a blown fuse, and I’m considering replacing it, but I don’t want to mess with anything unnecessarily.

I had trouble with the car today, it's 2009 VW Passat B6 CBAB. I was driving and I noticed that the coolant temperature was 120 C degrees. So I wanted to stop, but there was not exactly a place where to. So I was driving a little bit further and the temperature started to go down somewhat quickly. But I stopped the car. Waited about 10 minutes. As I was over the half way to work I started to drive again, the car had cooled down a bit to about 90-100 degrees (90 is standard temperature). But then it was okay for a bit, it was keeping the temperature at 90. Then bit later it started to raise again to about 120. Stayed there for like 15 seconds and then went back down to 100. Stayed at 100 for some time and raised again but not so much and then went back to 90 where it stayed more or less for 10 minutes. I was driving somewhat steadily but then had to reduce the speed, go around the roundabout and accelerate. Then it started to overheat again to 130, I stopped the car again immediately for about 10 minutes. The temperature was at 100-110. I started to drive again and it was holding at about 90 and then raised a bit again but not much like to 110 and went back down to 90 for some time and then I parked the car. I had no time to check anything then, so when I get back I will take a look at the fluid level.

One thing perhaps I noticed was that when I was on the highway, I was driving slower in general but the car liked that I was in a lower gear with higher rpm, then the temperature was keeping steady. But I was not really able to fully test this if it really was so or not.

Any possible solutions for this?

Hoi ik heb een golf8 uit 2021 met een 1.5etsi dsg motor.
Bij elke schakelmoment hoor ik een fluit geluid en ook bij terug schakelen. Auto is naar de garage geweest en daar hebben ze de koppelingsplaten vervangen helaas heeft dat niet geholpen, ook de PCV klep is vervangen. Weet er iemand toevallig iets meer over??

Hello Everyone might just try to ask here as I've searched the internet for solutions but can't really tell what could be the problem of my car.

Just one morning my passenger side window doesnt go down anymore. It goes up and has a sound of the motor that it is going up but not down. the driver side instead can't 100% control the passenger window. it couldn't be the fuse as driver side window works perfectly fine. Gemini said it could just be the switch that does not make contact with down button of the switch, if so, then could be an easy replacement fix. can anyone with maybe electrical knowledge help me out. Thank you.

As the title says. I have a Varex Xforce variable exhaust valve set that's developed a rattle when not fully open or fully closed. I've taken the servo off the valve housing to have a look and also managed to get a flashlight into the muffler to actually see the valve rattle. It appears the issue is play between the mating teeth of the gears on the servo and the valve base.

Other than warrantying the valves which will be an additional hassle as they're welded at an awkward angle - does anyone know of any high temp grease or paste I could use to take up the play between the two gears that might dampen the rattle?

TIA

kind of an update of my last post about a weird squeaking noise coming from my car, but i looked at my wheels and noticed quite a bit of rust on the rotor(?). could this be the cause? regardless, how bad is it to drive like this?

I recently got a 280z from my uncle as a restoration project and I'd like to make it a fuel economic daily that also has enough power to get out of its own way, what would be a good engine to throw in it and how would I go about doing the mounts on it since its a uni body?