Do I need clamp here for this SER? If yes, can I use the one on the second picture? That’s the only one I found in stock nearby
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The house I bought recently, have to replace some light switches, they seem to have some back stab wiring in it but no release mechanism.

Any idea how I get the wire out since I don't have much wire to work with, so I would rather not cut the wire.

Also why would this switch be wired like this (single phase) with the wire connected to the screw and the other wire connected to the back stab terminal?

I need to get power to overhead lights and I'd like to know if it's ok to drill through the top plate of my garage.

Prestige 1600W induction cooktop has stopped working suddenly yesterday with above issue. Actually the same happened before too last month with 2000W prestige induction cooktop. And I replaced it with new one. Now again this!! I am wil nil savings so hindering my day to day food Needs.

Please do suggest me what exactly should I expect or say to my House owner electrician as I feel this is something to be treated from electrical side.

I have a stud detector (jaxwq) that has an electrical caution symbol on the display when I put it up against the entire wall that has the circuit breaker switches. I really need to utilize this wall space for hanging a mirror and a couple other decorative and functional pieces like shelves and stuff. But I don’t wanna die about it either

Should I trust this cheap device and stay away from hanging anything on this wall or how can I get a better more accurate idea of where is acceptable to nail or screw into?

I understand I wouldn’t want to probe any long metal beams through there, but a short nail or two should be fine right?

Starting a non-union electrician apprenticeship next week. I have been picking up basic hand tools here and there for the past several months and will pick up a drill and impact driver today. I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions for tool belts/bags/Pouches they like or any unconventional things that may be useful early on (outside of work ethic and a broom)!! I believe the contractor I’m working for does mostly new build homes, barndos, shops, barns that sort of thing. Appreciate the help in advance! (Pic isn’t everything I own just an attention grabber)

I have this Belmont heater that’s not currently turn on but it keeps making the ticking noise like you turn on the timer all the time. Anyone know how to turn it off. The plug is also not available I think it is connected to the wall.

Hello all,

I am new to the sub, I have a GFCI outlet on the exterior of my house that keeps tripping, I reset the GFCI then it will work for the night then keeps tripping after working the whole night. The line side of the outlet has been disconnected at the downstream outlet, the only thing plugged into the outlet is outdoor Govee lights. Any ideas what could be causing this to happen?

I appreciate your help!

My electrician pulled a 4 AWG cable run for my new hot tub, but he miscalculated and came up about 5 feet short.

​His solution is to install a junction box in the attic to splice the last 5 feet.

​Is this safe for a continuous 50/60A load, or should I hold out and insist he pull a brand new, continuous wire? If a junction box is allowed, what specific connectors/box should he be using so it's done right?

Update: I'm paying an electrician $1,800 to run a 4G cable for my hot tub per the specs I was told for a 60amp hot tub. I figured he would run one cable but then it was short and he wanted to put a split in the attic. What I read online was mixed. I'm having him run a new one and all is good. I hope you all treat your customers as nice as you are here. Thanks for your professionalism.

What is the purpose of this box? There is no holes that allow a cord inside. What is the purpose of the clear space?

it’s a tiny little shock, feels even less than those like fake gum pranks, curious what could be causing it? turned off the vent switch and it still shocks.

Here's a weird one:

I recently had to replace a tv mounted above my electric fireplace. They were both plugged into the same electrical circuit (outlets are directly connected.) It had a power board issue, so I replaced the power board. It worked for awhile, then went out. Ok, not a very expensive tv, so I bought another one on Offer Up. It has worked for a few months, but I have noticed it gives an error code (blinking light) and power cycles, but ONLY when the fireplace is turned on. Different brand of TV, but the error code shows an issue with the power board.

For context, the fireplace has a 1000w heater on it, but also a small motor that turns a spindle which makes little fire effects with a few light bulbs.

I started to suspect some weird voltage feedback or spikes from the motor, possibly in combination with the heater.

Then last night, as soon as I started the fireplace up, a CFL bulb in a lamp across the room (same circuit) started to blink. I turned the fireplace off, and the blinking stopped. Turned it back on, and the bulb failed and actually started a small internal fire (inside the bulb.) It is not a new bulb, we have had it for many years so it failing might be a coincidence.

Is my fireplace generating feedback that is damaging my electronics? Or is this a series of odd coincidences caused by old TVs and bulbs? I am a licensed electrician, but I do not do much service work, so I am at a loss as to how to diagnose this.

Got a new place with a detached garage. This is the anxient sub panel in said garage. The main/meter going into the house is ~20 feet away. Is is worth trying to use this box as a basis for the 240v (specially need 18A) or starting a new lead from the main?

Open to the finished product being a standalone RV style receptacle if I have too. Need to feed a NEMA 20-R

*Bonus old breakers just left in the bottom of of the box

Worried about this being a fire risk. Any advice?

Is this normal? It only has top and left holes punched out, but the previous bracket is installed 180° left and right from each other

Crazy electrical at my daughters apartment. Central [FL]

(audio on, no jump scares)

This is an apartment in a converted hotel. One side is kitchen/living room, second side is bedroom bathroom.

When she took this video, all power had flipped itself off to the kitchen side, including the PTAC unit. The second side was full power with the exception of PTAC & bathroom GFCI. Apparently this has happened a few times now.

Maintenance arrived a few hours after she reported it, told her 3 other units in that building (property has 12 buildings, \~350 units) have the same issue & it's due to 'old outdated breaker panels'. This was apparently beyond their work scope, so they called in the electric company serving the property. Provider flipped power to the entire building for an hour or so, then back on. Unsure what they actually did while power was off.

My knowledge on electrical is very very little, but I do know a 220 line shouldn't affect anything on separate 110 & 220 switches.

Is this a low worry situation where she should just wait out the permanent solution, or is this a potential fire hazard that she should request to be transferred to another unit? Has an 8 y/o and 5 mo old kiddo.

Id rather not waste anyones time coming out if its fine

I've got electrical motor and I'm trying to test it with a multi meter to see if it's still good. Does anybody have any recommendations?