Hi,
Recently, I’ve noticed some smoke coming from the exhaust in the mornings. Is it just normal condensation/steam, or is it something I should be concerned about? I’ve been reading about coolant intrusion and now I’m freaking out a bit 😅

I have a 1.5 EcoBoost engine, manufactured in May 2019.

After my vehicle sat at a dealership for almost 4 weeks, and had the high voltage coolant fan replaced today. Its been charging since I came home but the charge is saying i have 8 miles at 36 %

Is this normal behavior ? They didnt mention it to me.

Standard 120v wall plug in charger lvl 1

I had an issue today where my ford escape was going about 40, and I let off the gas, and it went up to 4 rpms on its own, sounding very loud, but didn't speed up. I pulled over and it stopped doing it, but i don't feel safe driving it until I know whats wrong. Thanks!

Transmission failed at 83k miles.

Hello, I’m not a car person but enough of one to know when something needs to be filled. I believe I am looking at the correct product to buy for a coolant and just need to make sure. Any advice would be great!

2006 Ford Escape XLT — random door ajar chime and factory alarm keeps going off. Need help narrowing down the cause.
My son has a 2006 Ford Escape that keeps randomly giving the door-ajar chime while driving, and when the vehicle is locked the factory alarm will sometimes go off for no obvious reason.

Here’s what I’ve done so far:

Replaced the battery

Cleaned and tightened the battery terminals/connectors

Lubricated all door latches, including hood and lift-gate

Checked all four door-ajar switches live with FORScan

All four door switches respond correctly when opening/closing the doors

None of them seem to flicker or act abnormal while I’m monitoring them

Checked GEM codes
Had an old low-voltage code and TPMS code, neither currently active

Checked FORScan alarm history

The interesting part is the alarm history. It has recorded different doors as the trigger:

Driver door several times

Right rear door several times

Left rear door once

So it doesn’t appear to consistently be one specific door.
Cleaning the battery connections and lubricating the latches seemed to stop it for a while, but now the random door-ajar beeping and false alarm are starting again.
Has anyone with a first-gen Escape dealt with this where MULTIPLE doors show up in the alarm history?
At this point I’m wondering if I’m dealing with multiple worn latch switches, broken wiring in one of the door-jamb harnesses, a shared ground/power issue, or possibly the GEM itself.
Before I start replacing three different door latch assemblies, is there a common wiring point, ground, connector, or known failure on these Escapes that can cause multiple door-ajar inputs to intermittently trigger?
I have FORScan and an OBDLink EX, so if there are specific PIDs, tests, wiring checks, or GEM diagnostics I should run, I’m able to do that.

Thanks for any ideas.

My 2018 escape sat for 2 years. Right before I could get to it to start working on getting it running again, someone stole my battery, messed with the fuses, and really just janked up the air intake and whatever else was between them and the battery to get to it.

I connected a different 12v battery to it and tested the parking brake. Went on and off fine. Half (left side exterior) of vehicle lights are on, half off.
I winched it onto a trailer to move it, put the parking brake on, but now it's stuck. It won't release. Sometimes, it'll light up with the "brakes" warning light on the dash, plus the (!) other brake warning light. Sometimes it'll even say "problem with brake system" on the center screen.

Any ideas on how to get my brake released? I can't get it worked on while it's on the trailer.
I tried buckling with door shut and touching gas pedal, nothing has worked.

Thanks for any replies.

I am planning to do these things myself to my ford escape. i’ve only done a few things myself on my car but am excited to tackle this. what’s the best order to go? front or rear first? recommendation for parts? any advice or things to look out for? i’ve watched a few youtube videos and plan to further research it before i start but wanted to ask the community as well! thanks!

Just got this car from a family member and it came with that screen off. Not sure how it can be fixed or how much it’ll be. Pretty sure the lcd cluster is fucked

I can't tell you how in love I am with my new car. I got the Hybrid SE AWD and I feel like an actual adult with a nice car. Getting sober this past year has opened so many doors for me and my blue 💙 Ford escape is a symbol of how far I've come.

Thank you to all of you guys who provided advice when I asked for it earlier while car shopping. You steered me away from the 1.5L and advised me to get the hybrid. I COULDNT BE HAPPIER WITH LIFE RIGHT NOW

Hello. Everyone. I recently got a 2013 explorer police interceptor at an auction. The dash lights keep going out , I hear a clicking sound when it happens. It's been happening a lot today. When the dash lights went out earlier the car was still running so just kind of wondering what could possibly be wrong with it. Sometimes from a fan is running I can hear it click off and then back on the car never dies but the lights keep going off and on inside the dashboard.

I have a 2016 ford escape and I’m looking to do some mods, either style or performance.

I’ve been a car guy for a long time, but never really launched into owning or doing the full mod scene. But I enjoy working on my vehicles and just want to do more than fixes and oil changes.

obviously it’s an SUV and not a skyline or Supra, but I‘d like to try something that doesn’t look outlandish or dumb. I’m first going to try to tackle adding a “ST” style spoiler on the back, similar to “How to escape” YouTube channel shows.

Does anyone have any other recommendations?

It has 72k miles, is a single owner (pretty positive fleet vehicle of sort), for 8k. Are there any things I should be looking out for when inspecting one of these guys?

Hello. I have a 2017 Escape that has been giving me a warning message that comes and goes between car starts. Sometimes I’ll start my car and all will be ok, only for me to start it again a couple hours later with a message saying “Engine Fault Seek Service” immediately followed by “Hill Assist Unavailable” and when this happens I have almost no power when going uphill, almost needing to floor it to hit 25mph. The weird thing is that even though I’m getting a message that my engine has a fault, the check engine light never turns on and there are no readable codes for my mechanic to look at. On top of that, if I turn the car off and back on a couple minutes later, the message might not pop up and I have full power when driving up hills again.

Has anyone ever experienced an issue like this before? And if so, show was the solution for you?

Thanks

So I'm turning my 2010 Escape into a camper and need to remove the passenger seat for more space. But I've been reading that the SRS system will not function if I do because it needs to register the seat otherwise it shuts the whole thing down. Obviously that's not good, I would like to have airbags in case of a crash. So, has anyone here ever permanently removed your passenger seat in your 2010 Ford Escape and if it does actually disable the SRS, how did you get around that?

It's a 2023 with 28 thousand miles

I have a 2013 Ford Escape 2.0L EcoBoost, and the drive/coupler that connects the camshaft to the vacuum pump has failed. The bolt snapped, and I need to remove the broken piece and replace the damaged parts.

I’ve come across a few Reddit posts about this issue, but they don’t seem to provide enough detail about the actual repair process, what to inspect afterward, or the correct torque specifications.

I’m hoping someone who has done this repair can help answer the following questions:

Removing the broken bolt: What is the best way to remove the snapped bolt without damaging the camshaft or its threads? Are there any special tools or techniques you recommend?

Inspecting the camshaft and threads: After extracting the snapped bolt, what should I look for to make sure the camshaft and its threads haven’t been damaged?

Metal debris: If there is metal debris from the snapped bolt or drive/coupler, should I be worried about it getting into the engine?

Torquing the drive: After installing the new drive/coupler, how do I properly torque it down?
Final checks: After reassembly, what should I check before starting the engine, and how can I verify that the vacuum pump is operating properly?

Update to my earlier post. Found the leak in a small hose. Now to figure out how to fix it.

immediately the light came ON. I don’t know if this is a TB issue at this point given the fact that it never gave me symptoms besides the light coming on. No codes . Mecs pump is new etc. Any leads to single out this light would be helpful thanks

Anyone that can help me try and identify what offset these wheels might? They’re from my old 2001 escape, I bought it used at 200,000 miles and honestly just knew they were 15’s and the tires that went on them.

They were definitely American racing outlaw 2’s, for the 15 inch with 5.114.3 bolt pattern they come in -6, -19 and -38. I wanna say these look like -19’s to me but just want someone’s opinion who has more wheel knowledge.

Planning on getting another one and want to get the same wheels again, this thing was so stable and planted with the negative offset.

2015 is leaking coolant and I have no clue what part this is. I can’t find it online at all.

Hello all! As the title suggests, I’m struggling to retrain my tpms system in my car after a tire rotation. I kinda want to rotate my tires manually until the issue goes away 😂 not sure if that’s how that works lol.. buuuuut I’m not sure what else to do. I bought a tpms19 relearn tool by firstool off amazon for like $12 but so far it doesn’t seem to be doing much. I aim the arrow at the valve stem and click the button like the directions suggest but no response. I’ve tried aiming the tool in a multitude of directions but no luck. Gas anyone run into this issue before? Do you have any suggestions? Any thoughts on the matter? I need to take my car through inspection soon and this is the only error I’m seeing when my car is running.

I have a 2012 ford escape xls and had it for over a month now. I’ve had a brake fluid leak issue since I got it where I had to put brake fluid in every few days. Then a few days ago, the abs light, tcs lights came and brake light came. At first it would come on when I start the engine and then go away. I got my front brakes and rotors done yesterday and the technician found that the leak was from one of the wires on the abs pump and tightened it because it was loose. But now I drove the car today and now the lights are coming on and off when I’m driving. Any other reasons why it’s on? The brakes seem good and not spongy. Am I able to keep driving the car?