I was rerouting the downspouts on part of my house and couldn’t find fittings that would work for what I needed. I was connecting 2 downspouts into one, so I bumped the combined section up from 2”x3” to 3”x4”. I was unable to find an easy way to join the two sizes, so I made an adapter for that, as well as a rotating joint for the 3”x4” section to give me a much easier way to choose the angle the discharge comes out from the house.

Patch cables in my rack kept drifting sideways and tangling, so I made a 1U comb that sits right under/over the patch panel. Every cable gets its own slot (17.5 mm pitch = 24-port patch panel), the slot walls are spring tongues so the cable clicks in and stays put when bent.

• Printed front down, no supports, PETG
• Numbers as a 3-layer color inlay (AMS)
• Two halves with a 45 degree scarf joint, printed alignment pins and 2x M3 screws + nuts from the back, so it fits on a 256 mm bed
• Photos 1-2: my rack, render: the universal version with 24 slots top and bottom

My first seat size (5.2 mm) was a bit too tight for my cables, the universal version uses 5.6 mm.

New monitor, time for a new shield against the flying monsters (bird tax in the photos), custom shaped ribs underneath to deal with the bidirectional curve of the back, glued together (you can see some of the cardboard I had it on when gluing in the bird photo).

The ribs are raised so there's a gap between the shield & monitor as the vents run across the top.

Bird approval factor? The landed ~5 seconds after installation.

Made a simple attachment that sticks to the base with double sided tape to act as a magnetic catch since the Ryobi drills don’t have that anymore. Used 6x3 magnets

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3494281-razor-blade-pencil-sharpener#profileId-3990992

The square blade isnt sharpening as smooth as the other side but Its the 5th version and it works enough, so I'm tapping out for now haha.

So a while back my Dyson handheld vac gave up. The suction canister thing had a few trigger failures and eventually the motor just gave up the ghost. I had the floor head, tube and a few accessories sitting in the closet for years due to my pathological inability to throw anything away for fear it may come in handy in the future.

I have a garage Giraffe Tools Wall Mounted Vac for cleaning up cars and my lift bay and thought man it would be great to get this all running together.

I printed an adapter (after about 8 revisions) that uses an Amazon $14 M18 socket with low voltage protection so I don't kill the battery if I leave it in and forget it. The adapter fits the giraffe suction on one end and the Dyson on the other. Power goes from the M18 to the pins in the Dyson using some cheap post crimp connectors I found on amazon that I had to heat with a soldering iron to set into the plastic. Took a bit of fiddling with a knife because the Dyson pin clearance is small but it's all working now.

The small hand held motorized brushes are great for car cleanup and the floor one is good for cleaning my oil absorbent lift mat.

I needed a desk-space-saving tablet holder for cooking.

The black nubs are felt pads which are recessed into the print. It slides nicely and doesn't wobble.

A simple but very effective upgrade for any wire-frame or thin-legged outdoor furniture!

https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3494083-customizable-lawn-chair-leg-cap-any-size-angle#profileId-3990749

A few months ago I bought my first 3D printer and started solving all kinds of little problems around the house. One of them: my girlfriend loves sitting in the sun, but one or more of the chair legs would always sink into the lawn. So I designed these anti-sink feet for our specific chairs.

After a few test prints I had the perfect fit. I printed them in yellow, and now my chairs kind of look like they have duck feet.

Some people downloaded the model, but I quickly realised that not everyone has the same chairs.

Fast forward a few months: I just discovered customizable models. So, I turned it into a version that fits almost any outdoor wire-frame chair 🙂 You can set the leg shape (round, square or rectangular), leg size, leg angle and foot size, and it prints without supports.

Happy to share it, and I hope somebody can use it! Let me know what you think and please share a picture if you gave your chairs also some duckfeet. :p

Too bad summer and the sunny weather are already over…

I scanned my Shimano and Garmin mount to be able to print a piece that would hold them together while keeping charger port and led accessible.
I used Creality Sermoon S1 3D scanner.

Does your cat also gaslight you into thinking they weren't fed by another family member yet? I made this to help. It is a toggle switch box for keeping track of recurring tasks such as feeding pets, watering plants, taking medication, or completing daily chores. Magnetic, so you can stick it on your fridge and toggle the switches as you go.

There are options for boxes with one, three or seven toggles. You can also choose the toggles to have two or three positions. Mix and match to suit your needs, whether you're tracking something weekly, daily or three times a day.

Files are freely available here - including STL, STEP and F3D (Autodesk Fusion) so you can change the dimensions or number of toggles if needed. Enjoy!

https://www.printables.com/model/1887430-magnetic-toggle-switch-chore-tracker

Would have never found

i found myself in need of rail quick clamps after tackling a more tracksaw dependant project.

I designed these adapters to convert the budget clamps from amazon into specialized rail clamps for makita style tracks.

If you own a 3d printer and would find this conversion useful, the files are abailabe for free on makerwold: https://makerworld.com/models/3489904

I am a beginner at woodworking but found the courage of sharing my end result 😁

My old printed holders for the Hue motion sensors never sat right in the ceiling, so I designed a recessed mount that works like a GU10 spot gimbal.

• Fits an 83 to 84 mm hole in drywall (9.5 to 25 mm boards)
• 3 printed parts: mounting ring with spring arms, ball with a pocket for the sensor, clamp ring
• The spring arms pull the 100 mm flange tight against the ceiling, no screws or glue
• The ball tilts about 15 degrees each way and rotates, and stays where you aim it
• Printed in PETG without supports, about 1.5 h and 47 g for a set
• Battery change: pull the whole unit down, swap the batteries, push it back in. The aiming stays

Made for the indoor sensor (the square 55 mm one). Happy to answer questions.

I designed it for the Printables CoralBoard contest.

The Coralboard SL (Google I/O kit) sits in a small box on the outside of the CORE One door. Every 5 s, a camera frame goes through a YOLOv8n model on the board's NPU. When 3 of the last 5 frames show spaghetti, it pauses the print through PrusaLink.

I'm still working on the detection model in the lab: for now it catches 96.7 % of the spaghetti test images.

I'm also working on detecting the "blob of death"

Feedback is welvome.

Apparently its 'normal' and I should close the door softly. Yes, I'm sure my teenage son will start doing that.
Fridge is level. Door is level. Shutting the fridge door firmly pops open the freezer.

https://www.printables.com/model/1891090-fridgefreezer-door-magnetic-holder

I wanted three things:

1. To be able to switch between different pegboard systems later on without having to reprint everything / to use the holders at work as well, where we have a different system. 

2. To have all my tools in the same or similar holders, rather than 8 different styles.

3. To have a more stable solution—since the hooks otherwise break very quickly—I’m printing the mounting plate at a 45° angle.

I bought a cheap rack-mount ATX case with two 5.25" bays. I fit two 70mm fans into the bays, using press-fit clips to hold both the fans and the shroud to the case. Thanks to Noctua for the shroud grille design.

I’ve had multiple matte boxes over my career: Chrosziel, Vocas and Tilta. They’ve all been great, but I always wanted to make my own. So I finally did.

It’s fully 3D printed and designed for zero supports. All the plates print in about 9 hours, and it costs about $15 to build. Hardware is just M3 countersunk self-tapping screws, a few square nuts and one 1/4-20 bolt for the clamp.

It’s super strong, and the clamp holds tight.

It takes 4x4 or 4x5.65 filters, clamps onto lenses from 50 to 115 mm, and you can stack up to 3 filter stages. There’s a tilting top flag too. It’s parametric, so you enter your lens size and it builds around it. I’ve put up ready-to-print files for 4x4 (80 mm) and 4x5.65 (114 mm), plus a full assembly guide.

Free on MakerWorld!

Admittedly a very niche use case. During the process of designing this, I came up with some ideas for a more universal setup.

I needed to raise my bed to fit storage boxes under it, and I didn't like the risers that I could find to buy. I didn't want to use low percentage infill or use a kilogram of filament per riser, so I designed it to accept four 3" lengths of 1" square dowel (and then I forgot the length and did 2" lengths, and also had to shave down the ends because the dowels are wider).

The pads are cut from thick synthetic felt that was sold as a bulletin board (like a cork board alternative), which is sold in six chunks, that I cut with a snap blade box knife. They're stuck on with double-sided sticky sheets.