Hello all !

I will have tons of questions in a near future !

Starting with, how do i know the spindle specs juste with the spindle ? 🤣

As I mentioned in my previous post, I am looking at Sorotec Alu-Line 1510. I just found a similar size CNC from BZT, the PFE 1510. It is made of steel rather than aluminium.

Does anyone has experience with these machines? Shouldn't be the steel frame BZT machine stiffer?

​Hey everyone, I'm looking to cut small plastic enclosures/boxes and do some basic laser engraving—nothing too crazy or complicated, just pretty simple tasks.

​I stumbled upon this kit and it seems like one of the best options for the price. Would love to hear your thoughts or get some advice before pulling the trigger!

​Thanks!

Hi everyone! Here’s a little update on how my first homemade CNC is coming along: LINK.
This is my first surfacing test (with a less-than-ideal end mill 😅).
I’ve upgraded the spindle to a 500W one, and it’s definitely performing much better.
The frame seems pretty stable, although there are still some vibrations caused by the PLA enclosure mounted on it.
The 500W spindle produces quite a lot of vibration at maximum RPM, probably due to the cooling fan being slightly off-center.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this issue?

Here is my DIY CNC with all CAD Models and Instructions published on github. Take whatever you like. mallemann/mycnc: My CNC Router Design, Open-source DIY CNC router (V1–V4) with 4th axis, 4th/5th-axis AC/BC rotary table for 5-axis machining and a 6-axis CNC controller (UCCNC, GRBL)

Hi everyone, I'm new to CNC and I'm having trouble holding down my workpiece. I tried clamps and they work pretty well, but I'm really afraid of hitting them with the bit and breaking it. In some cases I don't even have enough room to use them. Once I tried securing the piece with just two screws and the result was completely irregular: the straight lines weren't straight, they were full of wobbles. The same job on a larger piece held down with clamps came out fine, so I don't think it's the machine's fault, but rather that the small piece was only held by two screws and was shifting while the machine was cutting. How do you hold down your workpieces? Do you have any tips for keeping them in place without damaging them? Thanks in advance!

Hi

I am trying to source a cutter to machine internal threads for wooden nuts. What I am looking for is essentially a flag on a stick; the router shank being either 6.35mm or 12.7mm with a cutter tip sticking out horizonatly so as my helical toolpath decends into the pre made pocket the cutter creates a groove on the inside of the pocket being the female part of the thread.

I can already generate the code for the male bolt part using a simple VEE cutter in my four axis machine but making the female part has go me stumped.

Any and all suggestions welcome.

Thanks

Preferably ones geared towards using the Haas NGC. I am a traditional learner with ADHD. I really struggle with learning in choppy, no-so-fluid "learn a little of this, then go there and watch this video, then go to download a PDF from here..."

I'm looking for a linear training program style text (with visuals), video series, or online program (that doesn't cost a fortune) that will teach me CNC from knowing nothing to cutting my first part of the Haas Mini Mill.

Thank you in advance for your help. It's tough to find the right resources with SEO's throwing me off and thousands of options available.

not looking for a brand yet, trying to understand machine first. ive been comparing a few manufacturers on alibaba and two machines can look almost identical in videos while price is 3x different. where is that difference normally hiding? tension control? servo quality? tooling? PLC? sensors? im okay with semi automatic if its reliable. fully automatic doesnt help much if one little sensor fails and support disappears. anyone bought one from overseas? what question did you wish you asked before paying? spare parts list seems obvious now. remote support also feels more important than i first thought. im trying to avoid buying impressive demo video and then finding out machine is nightmare to keep running.

This machine is kind of like an AliExpress VMC-215, but it's even smaller, and uses a cast iron base, column, and Y-axis saddle. It's about 20 inches wide, 22 inches deep, and 36 inches tall, with a 1.5 kW, 24,000 RPM ISO20 ATC spindle, ballscrews, linear rails, and servo motors.

Basically, I'm trying to squeeze as much actual VMC capability as possible into something that can run on a regular 110V outlet and fit in an apartment.

X travel is about 8 inches, Y around 5" and Z is 10". These are still changing as the design evolves, but I think this is about as compact as I can get it.

Still very much a work in progress, but I'm hoping to have it making chips by the end of November. Eventually I'd like to turn the design into something that could be shipped "flat-packed" and assembled without needing a full machine shop.

Hello Everyone,

I am thinking about getting a CNC in the near future. I am located in Europe, Sorotec seems to be a good quality choice. I have limited budget but I do want to get a better quality frame if possible even if i have to pair it with a simple router spindle with basic electronics first.

First I would use it to mill sheet goods (MDF/HDF, plywood, HPL), later when I can afford to upgrade to a better VFD spindle, hardwood, brass and aluminum too.

Is there anyone who has experience with Sorotec Alu-line? I was thinking to get 1610. That is the biggest in this line, would that be stiff enough for aluminum milling?

I'd appreciate some advise

My question is what do I need to make this serviceable and where can I find it? I need a power supply and some sort of a at to program it. (I’m sure you can tell, I know nothing about this be merciful!)

I am building the indymill cnc. I am attaching the gantry plates and getting binding on one side. It seems like the plate is not perfectly flat so when I all the screws I get binding because the blocks are being twisted. If I put a ruler on the plate where it attaches to the blocks I can put paper under in the center. I am thinking I need to shim somewhere but haven't been able to get it. In the attached picture tightening the circled screws causes the binding. If I fully tighten the outer 4 and just get the inner 4 in all the way it moves fine but fully tightening the inner 4 makes it stop.

I did try some washers between the plate and two of the inner screws but maybe I need something thinner.

Any advice would be great!

As the title suggests, since the cast frame is hollow, could I pour concrete into it and make the machine more rigid for steel? I would just get a tooldance x1 but I don't have the space. Can't currently afford a proper mill and an enclosure is a requirement. I know this is kind of a ridiculous question so feel free to drop recommendations for better machines. Thanks in advance.

I'm new to the cnc hobby. I just purchased a Masuter S3 and I'm still setting it up. Looking for any tips or suggestions getting started.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I run a hobby router and wanted a cheap way to carve reliefs (plaques, pets, portraits, signs) without buying desktop CAM. So I built ReliefCAM: upload an image, or a photo and let it estimate a 3D relief, set up your machine and bits once, and download G-code for your controller. If you don't have an image to hand, there's a small free library of reliefs to start from.

The part I care about most: every G-code file is cut in a simulator before you can download it. If the simulated tool would go below the design anywhere, the job fails, no file is produced and the credit comes back automatically. It checks the toolpath; zeroing, clamping and the right bit are still on you.

   - Posts for GRBL, grblHAL, FluidNC, Mach3, Mach4, LinuxCNC, Masso and DDCSV
   - Rough and finish passes; ball, flat, bull-nose, V and tapered bits
   - Straight G1 moves only, no arcs, and no line over 80 characters, so a GRBL buffer keeps up
   - See roughly how long the carve will take before you spend a credit
   - Optional frame round the piece (rectangle or oval), simulated with the rest
   - Pay per file, no subscription: your first job is free, then packs from US$9

Honest status: the picture is the simulated cut, not a photo of a carving. I haven't cut this one on my own machine yet. If you run one of those controllers and try it, I'd really like to hear what your machine did with the file, good or bad.

https://reliefcam.com/?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=forum&utm_campaign=rc-forum&utm_content=hobbycnc

I have access to a Boxford vmc190xi 3 axis cnc mill, with no software, but I believe i have the windows USB driver, what CAM software should I consider using? I mainly use fusion and 3d studio max for CAD.

My only goal is to learn, this is not some commercial venture