Bought this Mauser 3 years ago but just noticed this crack in the butt stock the other day. It seems to be repaired. It appears to have some kind of glue along the seam and it doesn’t move when I apply force. I don’t know a lot about stock repairs so I wanted opinions on if this seems concerning. I haven’t had the chance to shoot it yet, so I’m not sure if it would worsen if I decided to do so.

It’s an all matching near mint example besides the crack, so I’m hoping it’s not a big deal.

My state passed an AWB so I've been busy buying other stuff; however, I've still added some "milsurp" to the collection.

Swedish M/41B - Got it "cheap" because it was missing the scope and the top scope bracket was a repro. Threw on a Weaver K4-1 I had lying around until I find an Ajack that isn't over $1k.

STGW-57 - Always thought these were pretty neat but too expensive until the parts kits started coming in. Found a completed kit on GB for a fraction of the cost of a factory AMT 510. Now I've got 12 mags for this thing and burning through my stockpile of 7.5 Swiss.

Israeli FAL - Stumbled into this one as a kit while picking up some AKs from the builder. $1250 and came with 5 mags, a DSA Israeli marked receiver and barrel, so I had him build it for me.

FEG PJK-9HP - Always like hi powers and from what I can find, a lot of these were build on FN tooling

Mauser HSc - It's a post war mfg imported by Interarms. Found it for $250 at Cabela's and picked it up because my grandparents used to work at Interarms.

CUR-2 - Had this guy for a while but finally got around to putting the correct FSB and brake on it.

Recently inherited some old guns. Can you guys tell me what I got?

Paid about $350 all together for it

I'm trying to learn more about my rifle, my friend sold it to me alongside his ps4 for 100 bucks about a month and a half ago. I was still working on getting my apartment so I stashed it at a buddy's place

I made a post about it then mostly because I didn't really know what it was.

I'm moved into my apartment now so I was able to take a much closer look at it and I noticed a lot of markings, I'm curious what they all mean

And most importantly why it has 2 sling mounts, there has to be a story there...

Hello everyone.

I traded a Russian capture 1942 P.38 with an additional spare wartime magazine for this Winchester 1917. The bore on the P.38 was a 5/10. It’s a mixmaster of course and has several stamps on its stock. The bore is minty and shoots great. I’m wondering if I did well?

My grandad died last week and cleaning out his home I found this its a 1943 U.S Army issue 1911. W
hat do you think something like this is worth??

Ive always wondered why Japanese surplus never shot up in price like German weaponry did. For the longest time up till id say up to about Covid Japanese type 99's, 38's and even other models could be found on average for 1 to 4 hundred. My example is found at a LGS for 350 and its a all matching. Dont get me wrong im not complaining about Cheap Milsurp but it doesnt seem Japanese firearms in general seem to sidelined for the German and even Italian. Anyone have any insight worth sharing id love to hear it

Found a good buy on Gunbroker recently, always wanted a Tokarev, so I had to have it. I also picked up some surplus 7.62x25 over the weekend. I'm excited to put some rounds down range!

Recent inheritance. I know only what stupid intelligence told me. Is anyone here familiar with old German guns?

Turns out that law enforcement and government agencies can save lots of money on flashbangs if they just pop off a TT-33 with some 85gr PPU in it lmao.

Bought Tru Oil and BLO today because I've been looking to protect the stock on my M24/47 since I live in a very wet area this time of year. An employee where I was shopping recommended I try both to see what I like. Did some more research when I got home and now I think I want to get Tung instead.

As far as I can tell, Tru Oil makes the stock look really glossy and dark, but adds a thick protective layer. Because of the way it changes the look, I doubt I'll ever even open this bottle.

BLO has little to no visual modification, and soaks into the wood instead of covering it, but is much less protective.

Tung also has little to no visual modification, also soaks in, but is somewhere in the middle protective-wise.

They all sound like a pain in the ass to apply and cure over and over again, taking like a week at minimum? With BLO taking the longest and Tru Oil being the quickest. Am I missing anything? Anyone in here who have done similar projects have any input? Any advice for when I actually go to do it?

This here is an Afghan bring-back from the GWOT.I picked it up last weekend for $ 350. This has been a puzzle for the mind. It seems to have been re-cambered, but the rim size would still be .43 Mauser. What I have gotten from my research is that it was most likely shortened and re-cambered in Martini-Henry .577/450 “11mm Mauser rimmed”. Then they snuck them into Afghanistan. I would like to know if anyone knows if that is correct or it could be something totally different and even could add some history before it was chopped up and sent to afghanistan.

I imagine there are a lot of these posts, but I just got my service grade 1911 from the CMP and was wondering how I did. It's a Remington Rand slide and frame with a 1945 serial number. The hammer, slide catch, and safety appear to be replacements, as is the barrel. I know it's how it works, but it is a little unnerving to pay this much for something sight unseen.

Hello im looking for some advice on how to get the firing pin unstuck on this husqvarna m40 its really stiff firing pin moves back and forth but the hole for the pin is small reslly small I can't seem to find a small enough punch to fit into the hole and the watch punch I used just bent easily any advice appreciated thanks.

Recently picked up a Vz. 22 pistol which was the prototype (and later adopted) pistol for the eventual Vz. 24 and 27. These were chambered in 9mm Nickl, a rimless version of the 9mm Browning Short, which we now know today as .380acp. This one was accepted in 1923 and unit marked on the grip strap for the 10th Border Guard Battalion pistol # 93.

Question for the experts here:
Picked up this super condition 1944 cz27. The waffenamt mark on the frame is almost invisible to the naked eye. Also, see the grips. Really good condition except there doesn’t appear to have any logo. Was this gun refinished? Or is it original? Thanks!

Tried out some of my dads handloads he developed for his M38 mauser. My M96 loved them to say the least lol. Also pictured was my RTI M91 Carcano I've been working on restoring. It shot somewhat decently with Steinelammo 123gr sp ammo. It really prefers the heavier .268 139gr fmj ammo though. Also did some shooting my with Steyr m95/34 and the steyr 1912 Columbian contract short rifle in 7mm I purchased for my wife. Good day overall.

Hello. I created a new account as my old one is gone.

I recently found this Ex-dragoon mosin from 1922 in a pawn shop. I’d like to thank Red-Management for helping me properly explain what it is. It’s a rarer year version as it was made during the Russian civil war. It was 460$.

Found it in my grandmas basement lol

Finally got to fire it but 6 of the 8 casings cracked (3 hairline 3 notable) and also 6 had dents where the bullet sat (2nd pic). the ammo cracking im assuming is really bad luck but can't place the dents. (potentially) aside from the ammo, is any of it normal? and no i never disabled the bolt.