Here’s a neat little photo dump of my drag car project at the AHRA No Name Nationals. This was its first trip to the drag strip. It ran pretty well for its first shakedown trip. I even managed to beat a few of my friends with more sorted out cars. It ended up running an 8.33 in the 1/8 mile with the training wheels engine. These pictures were taken on 35mm film.

One of the most stunning NHRA Stock Eliminator cars that made its debut in 2016 was Travis "Tuki" Hess' A/SA "High Anxiety" 1964 Dodge 440 Race Hemi hardtop. The car was the product of an eight-month thrash at the family's autobody-shop business, Bucky's Ltd in Martinsburg, West Virginia.

Adding on hedman headers to my 1991 D150 318. Do y’all have any tips for getting the #2 & #5 bolts in? I’m having a nice time trying to get them bolted. Unfortunately I’m not able to fit a socket in there. Can the #1 and #6 be removed? Maybe the aftermarket bolts aren’t the right fit for the build. Hoping someone can point out an obvious oversight

What am I missing on this one?

My 1972 Dodge Demon. Built for autocross and back road carving.

Work in progress, but it's getting there.

Little 340 with a mild cam

thinking of swapping out the wheels on my 85 W150. first photo with chrome wheels is the current look. second with the bronze smoothies is the direction i’m leaning.

thoughts?

I'm tearing down a 325 Poly engine, and found it has Conformatic pistons in it. I was expecting them to be some oversize, but my measurements seem to have them being standard size. All the rod and main journals are measuring standard also. Is there any reason someone would need to replace pistons & rings but keep them standard? Would the factory back then run out of Dodge parts and use another brand piston?

Engine: 340 CI Motor (Fully professionally rebuilt 1.5–2 years ago with approx. 5,000–6,000 miles on it)

Transmission: 727 Automatic Transmission (Fully rebuilt 1.5–2 years ago with approx. 5,000–6,000 miles on it)

Rear End: 8-3/4” with 3.55 Posi Rear

Engine & Performance Upgrades

10¼ Pistons

Mopar Purple Cam

Edelbrock Intake

Carter AFB 4-Barrel Carburetor

M/T Valve Covers

Taylor Wires & MSD Coil

Hedman Headers

2½” Exhaust System

Suspension & Exterior

Front End: Completely new front end (including ball joints, tie rods, pitman arm, etc.) and recently aligned about 1.5 years ago.

Paint: Freshly done about 1 year ago.

Additional Details & Included OEM Parts

Numbers Matching: All original numbers-matching parts.

Full pass from the water box to the finish at the Toronto Motorsports Park, filmed by Mopar Bro Youtube Channel

Instead of buying new headlight assemblies, I thought i would drill a small hole ( 1/16" ) in the bottom. It seemed to work on my old 79 Magnum back in the day.

Thoughts?

Only a couple of Mopars out today

My candidates are as follows: 69 Charger, 70 Camaro SS, 68 C 10, 55 Nomad.

Anyone else waiting on the latest TIPM backorder? The part was due to be released Oct 15

Recently had my first overheating incident on my ‘74 Valiant. Was driving home from work and the car was running fine. When I parked and shut off the engine, I was greeted with a cloud of steam from under the hood. After letting everything cool down, I looked under the hood and unsurprisingly saw antifreeze sprayed everywhere.

Luckily I don’t think the engine suffered any damage. (Slant 6, 198) I topped off the fluid (it still had most of it) and started it up for a few minutes to look for leaks and she ran perfectly fine.

So my question is; what would be the best replacement radiator for the car? I’ve been looking around online the last few days and have seen tons of configurations, but none quite the same as the original. (Upper and lower on the passenger side, transmission lines in the bottom, overflow tank to the passenger side, etc.)

I honestly have no idea where to start at this point and am still new to mopar cars, any suggestions would be appreciated.