I knew it wouldn't be shipped on time, but its not as bad as I was expecting... I was sure it would get pushed into January!

I suppose I really should find some room for this.... and the filament dryers :)

(Edit: I ordered on August 27th 17:00 UTC-ish)

Finally have a production version of Princess Donut for my upcoming DCC Pinball Topper. She works great as a stand-alone print, so I've put the files up on Printables if anyone else wants to give it a try. Uses ColorMix tech and soluble supports.

https://www.printables.com/model/1892245-princess-donut-dungeon-crawler-carl-8-color-indx-p

Full details at the printables link. 33 hour print. Enjoy!

We've just ordered the high end hot end for our work printers (Core one L) and looking to use it to print PPA-CF and PPS-CF.

Has anyone had their 400C high temp hot end arrive yet and tried it on PPS or PPA?

In theory it should work, but chamber temp seems to be the weak point with the Core One L.

TL;DR: Drop your travel speed from 350mm/s to 330mm/s to mostly avoid a horrible new buzzing sound during travel moves.

The attached video shows the new buzzing that only occurs during travel moves under very precise circumstances. The video doesn't do it justice with how loud and harsh it is.  I levitated out of my chair the first time it happened, right after doing the Gen2 upgrade on my CORE One+.

I've been studying this off and on for nearly 2 months now, trying to figure out what exactly is resonating and, more importantly, how to stop it.  It turns out that it's caused by a firmware bug that hit the CORE One in version 6.8.1.  It's triggered by a bizarre sequence of events in both hardware and firmware. I don't know how common this buzzing is, but I've found at least one other person with it on Printables.

If you really must know, here is what needs to happen to trigger it:

• Perform Input Shaper calibration with the accelerometer, resulting in Y: MZV 45.2Hz (Increased to this value for me with 1.5GT belts.  Factory default Input Shaper settings can't trigger it.)
• Set travel moves to 350 mm/s (PrusaSlicer default)
• Set Z travel lifts to a ramping slope of 1° (PrusaSlicer default)
• Have a travel move during a print that is inclined 1.25° from either the X or Y axis

When you have all of the above, this sequence of events happens in the firmware during a print:

• During the Z lift, all moves are broken up into ~0.05 mm Z segments as an emergency-stop threshold.  At the above speeds and directions, this results in each segment taking about 8.3 ms.
• Floating-point rounding errors at the junction between these segments leads to super-tiny accelerations every ~8.3 ms.
• The MZV Input Shaper algorithm breaks every acceleration up into three smaller copies, spaced 8.34 ms apart (due to the Y shaper tuning of 45.2 Hz)
• These ~8.3 ms emergency-stop segments fall short of these Input Shaper echo lengths by 20-40 us.
• The Input Shaper echo spacing leads to a sequence of commands sent to the motors with sub-50 us duration (with some rounded down to zero length).
• Phase Stepping sends commands to the motors on precise 50 us intervals
• The firmware bug now limits the Phase Stepping to process only one motion target at a time in each 50 us window, regardless of length.
• This burst of short segments makes the stepper motors fall behind and then snap forward, once every ~8.3 ms.
• This introduces impulses to the printer frame at about 120.5 Hz, with many higher harmonics.
• The second harmonic of this, at about 241 Hz, excites a natural resonance of the print head/gantry, amplifying the sound into a loud buzz.

A bug report about this has been submitted to Prusa, along with two patches that fix it.  I have no idea if or when this will get fixed in an official firmware release.  In the meantime, if you are experiencing this buzzing, you can dial down your travel speed in the slicer to mostly hide it. Reducing from 350 mm/s to 330 mm/s seems fairly reliable for me, but other printers might need something different.

I’ve had issues in the past with ASA and the C1 with warping parts, even with long heat soaks. The smaller bed size makes it time consuming to get the chamber temp above 50 and there didn’t seem to be enough brim in the world available to keep larger footprint items from warping.

Well, over the last month or so the C1 has been pressed back into service for ASA as my Voron is down and my H2D really sucks at ASA overhangs.

A few months ago I laser cut a new side panel from steel and created a mount for a BTT PandaBreath. Using open source alternative firmware for it (Dragonbreath) I was a Guinea pig for an integration to the PrusaLink API where it can automatically turn the chamber heater on and off based off the bed temp and pre-set chamber target.

It’s like I got a whole new printer! It gets to 55C fast, no warping, 20 minutes from cold to heat soaked and I start printing. On top of that, the overhangs are flawless. Parts that my H2D cannot print without HIPS support are coming out flawless on my C1.

Is anyone printing ASA with their CORE One and INDX? I just got delivery notification it should be here this week.

First print on the Prusa Core One L with the Fiberology filament on the PA build plate, turns out it sticks a bit too well on there, even took some chunks out of the coating... Guess I don't need to add brims after all haha

Printed Solid have some good black friday deals on the previous gen - looks like they're launching new ones soon as well.... SUPER COOL!

https://www.printedsolid.com/pages/blackfriday

Now that materials and spool management is a thing in Prusa Connect, I thought I'd try switching from Octoprint to Prusalink on my Mk3s+ with MMU2S. I already have a Core1 in Connect and seems easier to manage them both together.

When I go to tools I get this:

Assign is unavailable with a warning Load a spool on the printer before assigning a material. I have loading filament to the MMU on the printer in case it needed this to trigger it. I even tried loading to the print head.

Am I doing something wrong, or is this not fully supported? PrusaLink is a fresh install and don't think I have missed a newer firmware although it is possible...

Any help appreciated before I pop the Octoprint card back in!

I opened a support ticket to Prusa about this, but thought it might be useful to someone else.

I just realized that Automatic Mesh Bed Levelling was not done on the path of the nozzles from the print/to the purge bucket

This means that if the front of your bed is a little higher, and you print with multiple nozzles on the first couple of layers, you can scratch your plate.

The scratches on the first picture are from a multi-nozzle print of an object positioned at the back of the plate.

As you can see on the second picture, of the same flipped plate, there are no scratches, since mesh bed levelling happened close enough to the path the nozzles are following during priming and after printing.

My INDX has been awesome overall. Had a few dropped tools (maybe 4 times) in the first few days, but no problem in the last 15,000 tool changes. Getting my filaments dialed in. It's going good.

But recently I've been having the problem of my filament breaking in the PTFE tubes. The run out sensor doesn't trigger because it breaks in the middle of the tube. So the printer keeps going empty. I didn't have this problem ever on any other printer or in the year and a half before the upgrade.

My humidity is slightly higher than I would like, between 31% to 37%. So it could be the filament absorbing moisture. But the conditions have been this way for a long time and I never had filament breaking before.

I'm wondering if it's something about the filament path that is doing it. Is there anything I can do about it? Does anyone else have this problem? I've heard about filament breaking in AMS units. Maybe it's just something about having multiple spools out.

Can confirm all boxes inside are ok

Maybe we'll all have it at home by November 5th already! 😀

Many people were concerned about printing regular filament as PETG/PLA after printing HT filament, for me cleaner filament like Buddy one is perfect for this.
After printing PPA-CF I always push the last bit of it in nozzle with Cleaner filament (I set as PC to push it hot), and then load any filament I want.

Cleaner is meant to be used at 280°C max, but it’s quickly cooled down to PC temperature after pushing the last bit of PPA

I will receive some PPS-CF, I don’t know if cleaning filament will handle 350°C tho, I will probably have to set nozzle to 320°C and pushing it manually

My print of the month this month was an adventure.

Getting the hang of printing with INDX. I tried to print a beautiful spinning ballerina in PLA with a PETG interface layer and organic supports. But it turns out that PrusaSlicer will happily cycle the PETG into the support structure which will break because of it.

Cue the struggle and a lot of improvisation. Some tape to keep the supports upright. Combined with paper and gluestick to make a new surface to print on. Repeat a couple of times because the makeshift support is not that great and overhangs on organic supports are really fiddly.

But it worked!

Moral of the story: Do not set your support material extruder to 0 when combining PLA and PETG for an interface layer.

Printed in Prusament Viva la Bronze and SUNLU PLA White (I've later reduced nozzle temp with SUNLU PLA to 205c to greatly reduce stringing with INDX)

Original model from: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/2663558-spinning-ballerina-fidget-radish-tower but I had to do some repainting to get clean lines.

Printables profile: Ezner

I currently have an XL and a MK3S. The MK3S is starting to piss me off so I wanna replace it. I love my XL for large PETG printing and I find I use the large volume a lot so I don't want to get a 4S or C1. I also want to print more difficult filaments like Nylon or PEEK. So far on my non-enclosed XL I only have printed PLA, PETG and TPU.

I'm wondering if there's a clear winner or not between the performance of an enclosed XL+ and the C1L for these materials. Also do these materials have soluble or non-binding support filaments that work well with them that might justify a 2nd Toolhead on an XL?

With the black Friday sales I'm looking to pull the trigger on one of them soon, does anybody have experience with both and have a preference?

After using the 8T indx for a while now, I've noticed the following.
When using Prusament and the corresponding profiles from PrusaSlicer 2.9.6, I always experience stringing and small zits.
If I lower the temperatures in the original profile by 15°, there are no stringing issues at all.

I wonder if this really only affects my machine. Actually, I don’t think so. That’s why I’m surprised that Prusa isn’t having the same experience and lowering the temperatures in their profiles.

So I took the plunge and ordered the HT hotend which will take maybe a month to arrive. While I'm waiting for that thing, I'm wondering how all of your (people already using the hotend)'s experiences are - are you happy with your purchase? What materials do you print with? Do you have any photos of prints to share? Would love to hear your opinions :)

And: I'm having a hard time understanding the HT print sheet - it seems to be sold as "you can't really print PEKK with the C1, but you could buy this thing and still try; who knows, you might actually get some parts with mystery layer adhesion for just 10 times the price of your dad's old PCCF", and that doesn't seem like a great gamble to make. If anybody did print some of that stuff, I'd really be interested in how that went ...

I heard a noise from the other room so I came to check the core one and...

Not the first time this has happened. There's nothing obstructing the built plate, no hard blobs, just decided to skip on its own I guess. No way to re-home x and y In the menu so I got it to resume by throwing it in power failure mode.

This was my first time ordering a Prusa item as soon as it was announced, my mistake I guess.

I heard the announcement for the XL to XL+ upgrade. Was excited to see the improvements in speed and cooling so I reached out to support to confirm a few details about upgrading my 2TH and went ahead and placed my order... 1-2 weeks was what the website said, that was August 16th.

Not long after, I see the website updates to 7-8 weeks, typical for Prusa it would seem, so I let my order go for a while. Outside the original payment confirmation, not a single message.

End of September, I'm getting a little curious to why nothing has shipped so I reach out to support. I get a nice response saying, it shipping this week and to look for an email. I wait 12 days, respond back, get another message saying our bad it's shipping this week.

Well, that was over a week ago so I send another message... and I get back another response that it's shipping next week.

You made a commitment, took payment, and didn't honor it. I'm trying not to be angry but come on, this unnacceptable.

I probably just need to run some new temp towers, but was surprised to see the standard nozzle with more random stringing than HF.

CoreOne+; plugged original nozzle bad and realized my spare .4 was standard.

Prusament and MH-Pro PLA, both partial rolls, but large desiccant bag inside prusament bag (for both) showed good, and both several hours in drier for good measure.

Used projects previously printed, but changed nozzle in slicer, and ran fresh g-code. Prusa slicer. Turned off HF selector on printer screen.

Brought the temps down 5C shortly after first layer and was good, but not quite as 'perfect' the HF. Tried dropping 10 and 15C, settled on 215 - I had found the HF previously happy a little lower than Prusament. Prusament slightly better even at 220, but still more strings than with HF nozzle. A couple articulated toys had stickier joints out of the printer than the last time ran as well.

Does the CoreOne really like the HF that well? The standard flow is more susceptible to strings than HF? Retract settings? I let some other variables creep in? Maybe too many impatient on the dryer, but that's not been a problem; maybe I didn't drop temp far enough to find the sweet spot. Missed something obvious when putting hot end back on?

I should order another spare .4, but now not sure I don't want to go back to HF, and get two. I'll take a bit longer print time over potential plugging though. I have a .3 and a .6 in standard flow, but probably not good for comparison.

The nylon string that's supposed to stiffen the head cable wasn't stiff enough in my printer, and the cable would sag enough that it would get pinched between the left motor and the toolhead during homing.

My first INDX print was this arm extender, it's simple and effective and you can re-use one of the velcro cable-ties to attach it.

https://www.printables.com/model/1842437-indx-extruder-cable-arm-extender/comments

Thanks to https://www.printables.com/@chmax_29107 for uploading.