Looking into getting a print would like to spend no more that 350 is this a good option to start out with or does anyone have some other suggestions I’ll be running it off my Mac book cause my computer is currently at my brothers as he needed something for school

It's kinda crazy tht I haven't gotten a 3d printer yet. I've been etching circuit boards for a decade and have so many just tossed in a box because building enclosures is the worst part. I was thinking about the bambu P1S, as "I'm looking to 3d print as a hobby, not tinker with 3d printers as a hobby", however as a first time purchase it's rather expensive and more than I want to spend on something I'm not familiar with. (while I'm almost certain that I'll find the device- whichever- useful because I kinda need the ability to custom make small things so I'll work through it), another thing that concerns me regarding bambu is their closed off/proprietary system- although I dont understand the whole nature of the 3d print ecosystem i.e. which parts of the hardware or software interact with which and which are locked in/proprietary. That NYS just passed a law mandating some kind of BS hardware chip that will prevent devices from printing whatever it interprets to be ghost gun parts... yea right that sounds like a disaster and I dont want another piece of software phoning home to spy on me, or not working if I dont have internet. 1 switching subjects momentarily: can someone explain to me (or direct me to a comprehensive, well written PDF on the subject. and yes. I've tried google but found it unhelpful) the nature of the software/hardware ecosystems. I know that something gets designed in cad, blender, w.e, saved as an STL file, the slicer makes it into gcode [instructions on how the xyz machine can make those stl shapes, in addition to custom settings on how to do so]- is this integral to the printers hardware, or does the printer just accept the G code? I'd obviously prefer FOSS- at the very least if I don't like one I can switch to a different one. but since I don't know shit about shit. which slicers are "best" and WHY? what's the difference between them? is a printer that accepts open source slicers going to accept most/all other FOSS within some broad range of parameters? (is g glode "universal"? like, if a printer cant complete an action dictated by the g code, it's because the action is past it's ability and not some software circumstance where it cant read/comprehend?)

1 continued so I've moved on to be looking at the ad5m and the elegoo centauri, although the ability to print with ABS and other more structurally sound materials is a requirement. If I love 3d printing and fall in stride with it, I'm good with buying a a second machine in a few months -esp with how I see people using multiple machines. I've read that I can basically enclose the printer by adding foam panels, or box it, put it in a weed tent, whatever to stabilize the heat, and that the enclosure requirement/recommendation stems almost more from the fumes generated instead of a material process limitation. by the way, that enclosure kit that flashforge sells for the ad5m looks like sych an irritating thing to buy.... like making it harder for the consumer as a means of building character (and making money) Now, about these printers and the looking to print, not build printers thing. I'm not worried about trouble shooting or repairing anything... not in the least. what I definitely DON'T WANT is a device that's designed by morons and has idiotic aspects of it (my favorite being those that are advertised as features but are really flaws). Are the mechanical design of these devices sound and well thought out? One thing that I caught on an amazon review for the elegoo is that the print head's electrical/data wire is a USB C... is that the case, because if so that's a really strange choice. that should be a pair of JSTs or something- one for juice one for data, not a friction fit. (OK, as of now, I'm going to let 23:59 pass and wait till the next order period to pull the trigger on amazon) I've also read complaints that the ad5m has a bunch of press-clip together plastic parts (the kind that are basically assemble once, not to be reassembled). Oh, tangent: why the hell does the elegoo carbon have that giant stupid clear hat on top of the printer? it doesn't seem to serve any function, the filament spools are kept outside the print enclosure...

I used to work in a place where there was a significant amount of sheet metal design done, and I have a pair of great books from the 60's by mcgraw hill "engineering data for product design" and "product engineering design manual"- the texts go over things like "ten ways to use tabs to connect components" "ways to make lids" Is there a nice fat textbook on design principals and tips for 3d printing? like how to make different hinges and connected components (like that dragon build. I saw that a few months ago and thought "wow... you can print in place interlocking links...). youtube channels are ok, but honestly... I prefer texts. they're so much less jerked off than most of what's on youtube. that being said, I'll take some good YT channels

Material strength and printer filament ability: I get that a part of strength is design and print parameters, obviously. that being said, some stuff is going to do a lot better than others. both the ad5m and the centauri can print the same filaments right? like abs...

oh, and what are the easiest design programs? I used solidworks a few years ago for work briefly and hated it (although I didn't care for what I was designing) I use photoshop, wavelabs, easyeda. I'm going to be designing mostly brackets, enclosures, mounts (my god do I need a simple enclosure to mount 3 dpdt toggle switches to the handlebars of an e bike.)

alright, I cant anymore right now. I feel like I've got enough of this for now and can return over the next few hours to add and answer.

hey guys I've tried everything possible to have prints try to stick to my diamond, carbon fiber effect 3d plates but nothing is working. Can you guys please drop some tips that may help out, I've tried everything but glue but supposedly glue ruins the final 3d effect. If I go too slow then the nozzle gets clogged with an error saying filament is too thin and is slipping.
Then I have to do a cold pull everytime to fix that. Please help me believe I didn't waste $50 on these plates.

Bambu lab plates and P2S printer. Yes I have repeatedly cleaned the plate

I just bought a Creality Ender 3 V3 SE 3D printer, and after my first print, I waited too long to remove it. Did I damage the magnetic print bed? And what did I do wrong?

Bambu revealed its pricing for this Black Friday. I’m thinking of either the P1S or the P2S to get into 3D printing. On sale, the P2S Combo is $650, while the P1S AMS2 PRO is $509. I also have a coupon from signing up to get $30 off my order of $500+

Is this the best deal I will get during black friday, or will there be other better sales through Best Buy, Micro Center etc.

Does anyone have any experience with the prices? Thank you!

Looking to get a second printer to go with my P2S, was originally thinking about the A1 but the mini at $199 for Black Friday is just too good lol. Print bed size doesn't matter that much anyways, since this one will be printing smaller PLA pieces with a 0.2 nozzle. Going to be printing a lot of minis with this

Newbie here trying to buy my first printer, was deciding between the P2S and the X2D since both are on sale for Black Friday. I understand that the AMS combo is what you want to buy for bambu printers, just want to ask is the P2S AMS combo at $649 a good deal? Will the price drop even further? Thanks for any help!

I'm writing this to save anyone that's looking at the Kobra 3 max V2 money/time and because my review won't show up on their website.

I can’t recommend this printer. I bought the 4-color combo, and the ACE unit broke during its very first filament drying cycle. I also ordered the bundle that came with random filament, and what I received was ASA, a material this printer can’t even print.

Customer support has been close to non-existent. I was asked to submit a 30-second video of the issue, but their upload system wouldn’t accept it even after I compressed it. Now I’ve been told nothing more can happen until the rep assigned to my case returns from vacation. The ticket had made zero progress up to this point.

The single-spool holder that came with the printer also caused problems. I installed it as instructed, but its feed angle is too sharp and the filament kept tangling. I ended up designing a replacement in CAD and printing it on my Bambu just to get this printer working (DM me for the .stp it's a very basic and temporary solution).

I bought this machine because the large build plate seemed perfect for bigger parts in my engineering projects. Between the broken hardware, the unusable filament, the poorly designed spool holder and the lack of support, I don’t think it’s worth it.

So I found this mega discount on the elegoo centauri 2 combo, and so I bought it instantly, I know it’s an open chamber and I’ll close it myself because I want to do some experimental things, I’m putting this post here to tell everyone that this discount is available but also to ask you all what you think about my new printer!

So the 6 cylinders were one of my first prints and they were printed standing straight up. The others were printed after I was able to tune some settings and get cleaner prints but the messed up areas are where supports were placed. I’m not sure what setting I need to tune as I keep having those messed up lines come up where supports are placed. Any help would be appreciated as I’m new and still don’t fully understand all the settings and what they mean.

I took the plunge in to 3D printing a few years ago when I bought a Bambu Labs P1S with AMS.

I have to say I've loved the printer and it's given me no problems at all, but I'm aware there are better multi-filament solutions around today and I'm not a fan of Bambu Labs recent behaviour!

So what next?

I don't do lots of prints so I want something easy, reliable, big print volume, with multiple heads to avoid slow colour changes and massive poops!

I also want something that isn't reliant on the cloud and can work offline (UK).

What's the state of the art today?

Good afternoon, I bought a used kobra 3 and I keep getting this error:

CODE: 10129 Y-axis vibration compensation abnormal

I’ve reset the printer multiple times, adjusted all the wheels, and reseated the hot bed connector. I’ve put it on the floor to prevent any shaking. I have no clue what else can be wrong. The guy I bought from tested it with me and it worked great. I’m ready to give up but wanted to see if anyone has fixed this.

The link to the troubleshoot that did not work: https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/error-codes/10129-code/k3?_sasdk=dMWExNmYyOGNhZjY1MTItMDZjNGRkMTgxNzA5NTc0LTc2NjAyZTE2LTM5NjMyOC0xYTE2ZjI4Y2FmNzJiNGU

I need help deciding. I'm looking for a new Printer and can't really decide.

I want to print PLA and ABS (closed printer !) and don't care about multicolor prints.

I want a reliable printer that works mostly plug and play.

Open for other suggestions in this price range.

Thank you everyone in advance.

Hello!

I am looking to upgrade my Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro and I need some advice.

About my needs:

• I need reliability first and foremost
• I mostly print PLA
• I also plan on printing miniatures with a .2 nozzle

I know the Q2 is more geared towards people who mainly print engineering filaments, but it's the best alternative I could find for the P2S. My primary concern with the Q2 is the ventilation, as I've heard it's not always easy to print PLA with it.

So my questions are:

• Did you have any trouble printing PLA? Is leaving everything open enough? Is the Polar Cooler Bundle worth it/ necessary?
• How is the user experience?
• Did the fix the issues with the Qidi Box? Does it work well?
• Did you have any other issues?
• Given that the P2S Combo is on sale for 599 Euros, which would you recommend?

Thank you and have a nice day:)

What would everyone recommend? I have my eyes on the Bambu H2C vortek kit and the Prusa Core One L+ index. I can get the Bambu pretty quick but will have to wait until after the 1st of the year to get the Prusa with the Prusa costing probably 600-800 more.

FYI I bought and returned the Qidi Max4 due to it being a hot mess. I 3d print items for my ebay and marketplace store and need something reliable.

Thanks!

Made to help calculate costs for filament, energy, and wear and tear—without the need for complex spreadsheets. As a beginner programming student, I would love to get feedback from other creators on areas where I could improve!

https://3d-priting-calculator.vercel.app/

I have a Chromebook and I am needing to get something that runs Fusion360 (Autodesk) for my P1S just looking for opinions.

Hello
I have a vfa problem at low speeds with my ender KE and I want to get a second printer to resolve the vfa issue and also to upgrade my setup
I was thinking about getting the p1s but my main concern at the moment is vfas but I saw a lot of issues with it and from what I read online a1 or a1 mini seems to be better with that issue
Does someone who have both printers can tell me if the p1s do better with vfas and also p1s and a1 prints are similar quality wise?

I just want to print Pla and am looking to buy a printer in the holiday season.
I am looking at the bambu p2s, very nice but expensive just for pla. Second generation a series A2l maybe, nice big prints, Kobra x has a very nice pricepoint but I read everywhere about clogging and tinkering to get the bleeding out of the prints. Also wondering how much filament advantage there is after getting the bleeding away. For multicolored printing that is. Maybe the s1 combo with ace 2 pro? And last the Elegoo centauri canvas 2 combo (emoji). Print quality is top notch I read but I am also reading about massive camera failures (checked that) because of bad modules and after updates. So my head is spinning and want to make the decision now since the prices are low. Everyone wants multi printheads but the A1 as starter for just pla miniatures or boardgame inserts is a little steep.

I keep seeing the same question here and in older threads: “is the enclosure worth it, or should I just get the regular Creator 5?” I haven’t owned either printer, so I went through the spec sheets and the owner reviews to see where the $150 gap goes.

The two share most of the hardware. Both have four toolheads, a 256 mm cube build volume, 320°C nozzles and a 120°C bed. Both are rated for 300 mm/s print speed and 30,000 mm/s² acceleration. The 600 mm/s you see on the Amazon page is travel speed, not print speed, which is easy to misread.

The Pro adds an enclosure, an active heated chamber (up to 65°C), HEPA13 plus carbon filtration, auxiliary cooling and door detection. It also has a bigger power supply (1,200 W vs 700 W).

Here’s what I took from it:

• PLA/PETG: the heated chamber does nothing for you. PLA actually likes a cooler chamber, and a hot one can cause heat creep and softening. People in the older threads said the same thing.
• Noise: this is the one real argument for an enclosure on PLA. One owner of the regular Creator 5 said some plexiglass doors and side panels cut the sound a lot. You can also build a cheap DIY enclosure for the standard model.
• ABS, ASA, nylon: this is where the Pro earns its price. A heated chamber and filtered air are the reason to buy it, and an enclosure you add later won’t give you the active heat.

So my rough rule is that if 90% or more of your printing is PLA/PETG, the regular Creator 5 saves you $150. If you know you’ll print engineering filaments, the Pro is the better buy.

Prices when I checked: Creator 5 $699, Creator 5 Pro $849. I wrote it all up with a side-by-side table here: https://3dprinteddecor.com/flashforge-creator-5-vs-creator-5-pro-2026/

Full disclosure: it’s my site, and it has Amazon affiliate links. I haven’t tested either printer, so this comes from specs and owner feedback only. If you own one, I’d like to hear where I’m wrong, especially on noise and whether the Creator 5 runs fine open.

I keep seeing the same question here and in older threads: “is the enclosure worth it, or should I just get the regular Creator 5?” I haven’t owned either printer, so I went through the spec sheets and the owner reviews to see where the $150 gap goes.

The two share most of the hardware. Both have four toolheads, a 256 mm cube build volume, 320°C nozzles and a 120°C bed. Both are rated for 300 mm/s print speed and 30,000 mm/s² acceleration. The 600 mm/s you see on the Amazon page is travel speed, not print speed, which is easy to misread.

The Pro adds an enclosure, an active heated chamber (up to 65°C), HEPA13 plus carbon filtration, auxiliary cooling and door detection. It also has a bigger power supply (1,200 W vs 700 W).

Here’s what I took from it:

• PLA/PETG: the heated chamber does nothing for you. PLA actually likes a cooler chamber, and a hot one can cause heat creep and softening. People in the older threads said the same thing.
• Noise: this is the one real argument for an enclosure on PLA. One owner of the regular Creator 5 said some plexiglass doors and side panels cut the sound a lot. You can also build a cheap DIY enclosure for the standard model.
• ABS, ASA, nylon: this is where the Pro earns its price. A heated chamber and filtered air are the reason to buy it, and an enclosure you add later won’t give you the active heat.

So my rough rule is that if 90% or more of your printing is PLA/PETG, the regular Creator 5 saves you $150. If you know you’ll print engineering filaments, the Pro is the better buy.

Prices when I checked: Creator 5 $699, Creator 5 Pro $849. I wrote it all up with a side-by-side table here: https://3dprinteddecor.com/flashforge-creator-5-vs-creator-5-pro-2026/

Full disclosure: it’s my site, and it has Amazon affiliate links. I haven’t tested either printer, so this comes from specs and owner feedback only. If you own one, I’d like to hear where I’m wrong, especially on noise and whether the Creator 5 runs fine open.

Currently, I have printers from Bambu Lab and Snapmaker, and I need to be able to initiate print jobs from a different Wi-Fi network, as I often send files to print while I’m at work.

I was considering setting the Bambu Lab printers to "LAN mode," but there are so many different "print farm" management software options—such as SimplyPrint, OctoPrint, InfinityFlow, etc...

I also heard somewhere about "Bambu Buddy" for Home Assistant, which can be configured to send notifications—for example, when a print finishes or if an error occurs. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated; I simply need a way to send files from a different Wi-Fi network, access the printer cameras, and receive notifications.