2001 Base C5 and (all original) 1962 C1 with the 327

Has anyone had any real issues semi-dailying a c5z06 while already having a vehicle provided by work? My only concern is the age of these cars as they are approaching the 25-30 year mark so they will of course need some TLC.

Really what i want is a fun car that wont leave me stranded, but having already a work vehicle i’m less inclined to really need the creature comforts of a newer car. This would be my only other vehicle and mostly be used for getting groceries or going out on most weekends which is pretty much what they’re used for most of the time.

I would like to hear your experiences dailying a c5 at this current age. I’m in love with the car and would like to own one before they get too old for this kind of use now that i can afford to buy one. I would like to know the good, the bad and anything a new owner would appreciate or need to hear, where you bought it, how it’s been, pictures, etc. This would also be my first manual car :) Thanks

One of the dealerships I work with just got this 2008 in. The previous owner left spare gaskets, a battery maintainer, and a full binder of all records including the window sticker. 124k and I would assume it’s been very well cared for. Car feels solid and runs great.

I love my ZL1, it’s a great car, but something about a corvette has been calling my name lol. Found this blue 2015 Z51 with 29k miles for sale and I’m tempted to trade in my ZL1 for it. Any information on the C7 Z51’s that you owners would like to share? Reliable? Quick? I like to hear from actual owners so that’s why I didn’t just google. Any suggestions or feedback on this move is much appreciated!

GPI SS3 cam, Kooks 2 inch headers/catless x pipe in to the factory axle back NPP

Wondering if my checked bag Dimensions: 26.5” x 17.75” x 11.75” would fit or not In the front or rear or if I have to use my carry on luggage size and a backpack

**TL;DR:** 2017 base Stingray, auto, ~27,500 mi. Every time it sits more than ~10 hours, the first shift into D (foot on brake) gives a noticeable jolt, felt mid-to-rear of the car. The second shift is much weaker. It's fine after an couple hours sitting or once driven. No DTCs and no freeze frame in any module. Engagement time I measured is under the 3 s limit from GM TSB 16-NA-364. Looking for people who had this and what actually fixed it (clutch drive learn, fast learn, fluid, valve body?).

Car:

2017 Corvette Stingray, base (LT1, 8L90). TCM was last programmed in Sept 2023 (before I owned it), and I can't reach the previous owner, so I don't know if a fast learn was done afterwards. As far as I know, the trans fluid has never been changed. I already have all the necessary parts, including 26 liters of the correct Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP ('Blue Label') fluid for a complete triple flush, but I am intentionally holding off on the service until the vehicle undergoes a thorough diagnostic.

Symptom:

- Cold, after sitting overnight: shifting P to D with the brake held gives a jolt/clunk. It feels like the whole car jerks, mostly from the middle to the rear.

- Second time into D right after is much milder but still there.

- After sitting for couple hours, no issue. Heat doesn't matter, it's about how long it sat.

- Driving is normal, shifts are fine.

- One time, about month ago, I put it in D, added throttle and the revs flared like it was in neutral and the car didn't move. When I pressed the brake it engaged and went. This happened only once and I haven't been able to repeat it.

Tools:

VXDIAG VCX Nano clone with GDS2 v22.7.01500. I only read data with it (no flashing, no resets, no relearns, I haven't cleared anything).

What I found:

- Full module scan: 21 modules answer, all "No DTCs Stored", including TCM, ECM, ABS, EPS, steering angle sensor.

- TCM: 0 DTCs, no freeze frame. "Since DTC Clear" lists only two tests as Not Run (P16E9 and P184F).

- Measurements per the 16-NA-364 method (time from gear selected to ISS = 0, brake held). Trans temp 12 °C (54 °F), garage 11 °C, battery 14.1 V running. The car had been sitting about 3 days. My numbers are read off the GDS line graph, so ±0.3 s:

- Into Drive: ~1.9 s both times

- Into Reverse: ~1.9 s the first time, ~1.3 s the second

- After start in Park, ISS catches up with engine RPM in ~1.5 s (TSB wants 2 s or less)

- No RPM flare during any of it

- I move the lever P, R, N, D slowly, so it passes through R and N each time.

What I read:

16-NA-364, 16-NA-014, PIP5437B, 16-NA-361, 16-NA-019. As I understand it, all my numbers are inside the limits, so the TSB doesn't call for the stator shaft support or the drive learn.

My questions would be:

1. Has anyone had a jolt into D with normal engagement times and no codes? What fixed it?

2. Would you try the 20x P to D drive learn from 16-NA-364 even though my times are under 3 s? Or a proper Service Fast Learn at a dealer or shop?

3. Does a fluid and filter change after ~9 years make sense here, or is that just hoping?

4. Is ~1.9 s into D after sitting normal for these cars?

5. Any known valve body or calibration issue on the 2017 model year that I should look at?

GDS printscreens included. Thanks!

Hey just bought my dream vette and wondering do I need to add a x-pipe to my NXT Step axle back to add more sound?

My son is going to be 19 on the 30th of October. My ‘01 has been off the road pending some work that I need to do to make it road-worthy, mainly the harmonic balancer among other mechanical things, and a few cosmetic things that will take time and money. It stays in the garage under cover at my elderly parents’ home, but every now and then, I start it up and take it on a lap around the loop of their gated community.
Yesterday was my son’s 2nd time going out after a quick but required refresher course on clutch control and confidence to know that he knows what to do. It’s also his first drive in daylight hours with the roof down, enjoying the crisp fall air and the colors of the trees!
I’m in the midst of cancer treatment so this was a welcome moment of triumph and bliss for both of us!

They may be a bit noisy and will fade during track use, but at least they leave an enormous amount of dust on my wheels

Hey everyone, I got a new torque tube 2 weeks ago and since then have noticed the following:

1) sounds like someone in knocking in the rear when driving any speed
2) random rumble in rear passenger at slow speeds, sounds like things moving around
3) when driving low or coming to a stop, sounds like metal moving around

I have an appt to take it back to dealership. What is the possible issue? It was already there 9 weeks for torque tube replacement.

Never seen this color combo before and it looked great. The plate ties the whole thing together. Random to see it at my local Planet Fitness in Wareham, Massachusetts

First Corvette - 2005 C6 Auto

Hey everyone,
Looking to get into my first Corvette and I’ve always been a big fan of the C6. I’m still pretty young, so I’m trying to stay in a more realistic budget. I recently found a 2005 automatic that’s still being negotiated it’s currently looking like it’ll land between $13–14k. The car is owned by an older gentleman and is super clean all around but it has 130k miles. It has been garage kept its entire life.
My main concerns are the 4-speed transmission and the typical first year issues. I’m not planning any major modifications, just an exhaust and maybe headers down the road.
Is $13–14k a fair price for a 2005 auto with this mileage? Also, would like to hear from anyone who’s owned a 2005 automatic and what your experience has been like.
Thanks in advance!

UPDATE!!!! -

I went and saw the car, test drove it as well on some open back roads. Everything runs smooth didn’t feel sluggish to me. It shifted well and I didn’t notice any hesitation that some people complain about. The car is overall super clean. Owner has service records of transmission, rear differential, new tires, brakes, rims all within the past year. He also had the seats professionally reupholstered.

parts he wants to go with the car such as:

Flowmaster Catback exhaust (not installed)

New oem head unit (bluetooth compatible aftermarket head unit is installed now).

New set of Oem headlights and extra set of lenses

Extra Targa top

Oem rims

Door opening assembly’s

Air Intake system (not installed)

Other misc. switches and buttons

He’s asking around $15,500. Being that this is my first corvette does this seem like a reasonable deal?

Thanks again.

I loved this car, but damn, she just started to have so many problems. Both trunks leaked, the side window leaked, the dash peeled out twice, the door panel started to peel out. The radio wouldn’t shut even with the car off and door open. The dealership said they couldn’t fix it. No, I didn’t have any mods done it. Kind of stressful since it was only 2 years old.

I went to a very small Cars and Coffee on Saturday. But it was big enough for a C3, a C2 and my C8.

Really considering pulling the trigger on this. It has all the cosmetic mods I’d want to do to a c6, and it’s in flawless condition. It’s paint corrected with full ceramic coating. It’s a manual, 92.5k miles but rides like new. New tires new brakes. We agreed to 26k. Thought everyone?

I’m looking to get an exhaust for my 2018 C7 Z06, but want to get some insight before doing so. The Corsa Xtreme Axle Back + Corsa X-Pipe is currently at the top of my list, but I have never heard it in person nor have I heard any non-stock Z06s in person. Does anyone have any recommendations on other systems that may be better?

Just picked this up yesterday.

2017, Stingray, 1LT, coupe, manual. Had 27405mi on it.

It's a nice counterpoint to my WRX.

Hi guys,

I've had my C7 Z51 (manual) for over a year now and I really enjoy the car. However, the one thing I find disappointing about it is the lack of traction. You have to really feather the throttle in first and second gear to not spin the tires. I feel like the car was designed with the widebody in mind and the Stingray is an incomplete product. I'm currently running Michelin PS4S ZPs as my tire and I've read that swapping to non-runflats improves traction and handling. I was also thinking about going up to 295s from 285s in the rear. Would this significantly help maintaining traction under hard acceleration and cornering or would it not make much of a difference? Thanks.