2001 Base C5 and (all original) 1962 C1 with the 327

One of the dealerships I work with just got this 2008 in. The previous owner left spare gaskets, a battery maintainer, and a full binder of all records including the window sticker. 124k and I would assume it’s been very well cared for. Car feels solid and runs great.

Has anyone had any real issues semi-dailying a c5z06 while already having a vehicle provided by work? My only concern is the age of these cars as they are approaching the 25-30 year mark so they will of course need some TLC.

Really what i want is a fun car that wont leave me stranded, but having already a work vehicle i’m less inclined to really need the creature comforts of a newer car. This would be my only other vehicle and mostly be used for getting groceries or going out on most weekends which is pretty much what they’re used for most of the time.

I would like to hear your experiences dailying a c5 at this current age. I’m in love with the car and would like to own one before they get too old for this kind of use now that i can afford to buy one. I would like to know the good, the bad and anything a new owner would appreciate or need to hear, where you bought it, how it’s been, pictures, etc. This would also be my first manual car :) Thanks

GPI SS3 cam, Kooks 2 inch headers/catless x pipe in to the factory axle back NPP

I'm considering getting a C4 or C5 Corvette as my first car, and I'd like to hear from people who have owned or driven both generations.

Personally, I really like the C4 Corvette because of its body shape and overall styling. There's just something about the design that I like, especially the way the car looks from the side. However, I understand that the C5 is generally considered a better car in several areas, including reliability and everyday usability.

I'm around 5'5"–5'6", and I wouldn't need much passenger space. I'm mainly interested in finding out whether either generation would make sense as a first car.

A few things I'd like to know:

• How reliable are the C4 and C5 if they're maintained properly?
• Is the C5 really that much better in terms of reliability and maintenance costs?
• Which one is easier and cheaper to work on yourself?
• How do the engines, performance, and fuel economy compare?
• What common problems should I look for when shopping for either generation?
• How comfortable are they for everyday driving?
• Would you recommend either one as a first car, or would I be better off starting with something else?

I know these are older sports cars, so I understand that condition and maintenance history matter a lot. I'd be willing to learn basic repairs, but I don't want something that's constantly breaking down or costing me money.

I'm drawn to the C4 because I genuinely prefer its body shape, but I'm also trying to be practical about reliability and ownership costs.

If you were in my position, would you choose a C4 or spend more for a C5? I'd appreciate honest opinions from actual owners.

**TL;DR:** 2017 base Stingray, auto, ~27,500 mi. Every time it sits more than ~10 hours, the first shift into D (foot on brake) gives a noticeable jolt, felt mid-to-rear of the car. The second shift is much weaker. It's fine after an couple hours sitting or once driven. No DTCs and no freeze frame in any module. Engagement time I measured is under the 3 s limit from GM TSB 16-NA-364. Looking for people who had this and what actually fixed it (clutch drive learn, fast learn, fluid, valve body?).

Car:

2017 Corvette Stingray, base (LT1, 8L90). TCM was last programmed in Sept 2023 (before I owned it), and I can't reach the previous owner, so I don't know if a fast learn was done afterwards. As far as I know, the trans fluid has never been changed. I already have all the necessary parts, including 26 liters of the correct Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP ('Blue Label') fluid for a complete triple flush, but I am intentionally holding off on the service until the vehicle undergoes a thorough diagnostic.

Symptom:

- Cold, after sitting overnight: shifting P to D with the brake held gives a jolt/clunk. It feels like the whole car jerks, mostly from the middle to the rear.

- Second time into D right after is much milder but still there.

- After sitting for couple hours, no issue. Heat doesn't matter, it's about how long it sat.

- Driving is normal, shifts are fine.

- One time, about month ago, I put it in D, added throttle and the revs flared like it was in neutral and the car didn't move. When I pressed the brake it engaged and went. This happened only once and I haven't been able to repeat it.

Tools:

VXDIAG VCX Nano clone with GDS2 v22.7.01500. I only read data with it (no flashing, no resets, no relearns, I haven't cleared anything).

What I found:

- Full module scan: 21 modules answer, all "No DTCs Stored", including TCM, ECM, ABS, EPS, steering angle sensor.

- TCM: 0 DTCs, no freeze frame. "Since DTC Clear" lists only two tests as Not Run (P16E9 and P184F).

- Measurements per the 16-NA-364 method (time from gear selected to ISS = 0, brake held). Trans temp 12 °C (54 °F), garage 11 °C, battery 14.1 V running. The car had been sitting about 3 days. My numbers are read off the GDS line graph, so ±0.3 s:

- Into Drive: ~1.9 s both times

- Into Reverse: ~1.9 s the first time, ~1.3 s the second

- After start in Park, ISS catches up with engine RPM in ~1.5 s (TSB wants 2 s or less)

- No RPM flare during any of it

- I move the lever P, R, N, D slowly, so it passes through R and N each time.

What I read:

16-NA-364, 16-NA-014, PIP5437B, 16-NA-361, 16-NA-019. As I understand it, all my numbers are inside the limits, so the TSB doesn't call for the stator shaft support or the drive learn.

My questions would be:

1. Has anyone had a jolt into D with normal engagement times and no codes? What fixed it?

2. Would you try the 20x P to D drive learn from 16-NA-364 even though my times are under 3 s? Or a proper Service Fast Learn at a dealer or shop?

3. Does a fluid and filter change after ~9 years make sense here, or is that just hoping?

4. Is ~1.9 s into D after sitting normal for these cars?

5. Any known valve body or calibration issue on the 2017 model year that I should look at?

GDS printscreens included. Thanks!

Wondering if my checked bag Dimensions: 26.5” x 17.75” x 11.75” would fit or not In the front or rear or if I have to use my carry on luggage size and a backpack

After I bought my C6 I went to a Chevrolet Dealership for my first oil change. It's time to change my oil again and I'm thinking of going to one of those express oil shops. I use them for my daily driver. What do you think?

As the title implies, i have a crack in my radiator. My question is do i need to replace the whole thing or can i replace just the part?

Hey everyone, I got a new torque tube 2 weeks ago and since then have noticed the following:

1) sounds like someone in knocking in the rear when driving any speed
2) random rumble in rear passenger at slow speeds, sounds like things moving around
3) when driving low or coming to a stop, sounds like metal moving around

I have an appt to take it back to dealership. What is the possible issue? It was already there 9 weeks for torque tube replacement.