I want to put single swinging gate where the red is in this photo. Latch side on the garage. Pivoting side on the wood post.

What’s the best way to mount this gate? It’s a shared post between neighbor. Ideally I can mount to the face or front of the post and not need to get on the neighbors side for a through bolt mounting.

The gate is large, probably 9ft wide. I figured making a get that’s backed by squat tubing would also be needed so it doesn’t sag. I wouldn’t mind adding a small wheel out on the end to help either.

Gate goes inbetween the middle 4x4s. Never had one swing away from the “nice-facing” side. I can’t quite see how this will work without “insetting” the gate to the back of the 4x4s so it can clear there while swinging inward.

Hey there! Thanks for at least checking out this post. I'm going to be helping a friend to build a fence in the next few weeks. Daytime temps should be in the high 50s to mid 60s, but overnight it could get as low as the mid 20s (the forecast says it will probably be closer to mid 30s, but I want to be sure). We will be using postmaster posts (8' tall, embedded 2' deep) but I'm not sure what sort of concrete I should go with, or how to help it set up if the temperature dips below freezing at night. Should I use an accelerator? Could I just stuff a bunch of bottles with warm water in the hole and pack it with fiberglass insulation? Should I use heat tape and then pack the hole with insulation? This is in an area with very low ambient humidity, and at an elevation of around 7,000 ft. Anyway, it's surprisingly hard to find information about concrete at freezing temperatures that isn't specifically about laying a pad, which is why I'm inquiring here. Hope you can give me some insight, and thanks again!

Google says 42", but that seems like very little clearance for all the fixings.

EDIT: Everything is cyclone fencing BTW.

Bought this house and there is this short section of fence that was built before we bought it. It’s been unfinished for about 6 months. I am planning on extending the fence all the way around the house and copying this design.

I do like the design in general but I am worried they used non PT wood for the thinner strips. What do you all think? And if so, should I replace them? Looked at Home Depot and couldn’t find any PT in this size.

We want to get vinyl fence in Central Florida and it’s 89ft of fence. We’ve gotten quotes from 2 companies that both have great reviews and seem very similar.

Company 1: $2800 uses Catalyst brand
Company 2: $3400 uses Homeland

Is there a big difference in quality between the 2? We plan on being in this house for a while so we don’t want to have to redo in a few years. But I haven’t been able to find much on them.

Any advice is appreciated!

About to install ~300 ft of fence around our backyard and debating between PT wood and PostMaster for the posts and gate hardware.

Material price difference is roughly ~$4500 between the two, with wood estimating at ~$7500 and PostMaster posts, gate posts, and welded frames coming to ~$12000.

Part of the struggle is finding gate hinge hardware to attach to the square tube PostMaster Gate Posts (not the U shaped line posts) for a 5 ft wide gate and a 10 ft double driveway gate (2x 5 ft sections).

The super premium is the ShutIt Badass face mount bolt on hinges, but these are $160+ each and we need 10 hinges.

Majority of the butterfly hinges or adjustable T-bolt hinges I'm seeing have gate weight ratings of like 40-45 lbs and don't seem like that's enough for a metal gate frame covered with wood pickets.

What hinges and latch hardware are you all using for PostMaster gate posts and larger gates (5ft+)?

Moved to the country and needed to have something to keep our dog contained and provide some privacy. I've never built a fence before so this was a fun project to learn a new skill. Because we live in a "very severe fire hazard zone" I opted for galvanized panels to reduce the amount of wood used. I also had to go with zero flammable materials to meet additional fire hardening requirements so the first 5 feet on each end is aluminum rail and posts and the rest is treated 4x4 and 2" redwood. Everything in the dirt is set 24" into the soil and what's on the concrete is secured with Simpson ez-posts. Nominal height is 6' and the total length is ~130' with a 5' gate on either end. Total cost was roughly $5k including tools, at the start of this project all I had was a basic toolbox and a cordless drill lol. Total install time was about a month, though that includes 7 days of zero work while the concrete cured and 2 more days I couldn't do anything due to rain. I know it isn't perfect but would love to hear some feedback!

Hello all, I just built my first welded deer fence with pipe and am wondering what I might need to improve on and what you think it’s worth per foot.

It’s schedule 40 pipe. 1 1/2” for the verticals and 1” for the top rails. I welded it all together as well as the panels.

Also built the gates. Constructive criticism is welcome.

Another successful project

I am looking at building a fence line across our back yard to seperate the back yard and what will be a small pasture for my son's 4H cattle. The property already has woven wire fence on wood posts and t-post around the perimeter.

My plan would be to use 2-3/8" drill pipe as posts and have 5 strings of high tensile that would stretch about 280' in a straight line. The ground is not flat and has several humps that I feel would make stretching woven wire difficult. I would also plan to electrify 2 of the wires.

What type of options do I have with attaching the wire to round metal pipe without them slipping/moving on the pipe? I would need some or all of the wires isolated if I am going to add electricity to any of them. I have not purchased any posts or fencing yet, but I do have access to most tools needed to drive posts, dig post holes, stretch fence and wire.

Metabo HPT 2-in x 0.113-in 21 -Degree 6d Stainless steel Ring Shank Collated Framing nails 1000 -Per Box
$100

or

Grip Rite: 2 in x .113 in Gauge 21° Plastic Collated 316 Stainless Steel Ring Shank Round Checkered Head Framing Nails 1000 per Box
$160

Had a fence installed last week. Bolt into nothing but the outer plank and not into the post. They sent repair guy and this is result. In my mind not the way I’d do it but is it acceptable?

Anyone able to give some advice on this? Based in the UK

i want to replace my backyard fencing all around. i share it with 4 neighbors.

how to approach splitting the cost and handling styling preferences with 4 parties?

i already got a quote for my perimeter and shared that with them. they said they will get back to me but they prob wont until i inquire again.

Hello all,

I am a first-time homeowner and have very, very limited knowledge about fence building. I just want to know if this is possible.

My main question is, is it possible to build a fence in my backyard using parts from another, acquired fence?

I have people that can help me build it, but I just wanted to know if I could use these materials or are they too rotted? The posts seen lying on the ground under the deck are covered in sand from the sand filled umbrella on the deck. It is not mold.

Some details: large acquired privacy fence was put up and used for less than a year. Homeowner let us take it down before they put their house on the market, and I took the scraps to my house where it has been sitting for about two years. Basically, The fence was practically new and my hope was to build this fence in my backyard.

Thank you all so much for your help.

Here’s a small job from this week. Bonus doggy nose if you zoom in between gate and post

The contractor used this for a fence. It seems to be untreated? Had it stained but it rained a few times in the last two weeks since install and needs to be shaved down multiple times already. I'm concerned about the longevity of it as it warps and expands from moisture.

I have a home where the fence is varying ages from being built in 2023, 2024, and 2025 due to the community being built around me. I want to use a semi solid stain in a lighter honey color cedar but I'm worried the stain won't match even with cleaning. Thoughts? Does anyone have experience with fences of varying ages and matching stains? I'm told I should only be using solid if I want it to match. I have fence lighting around the yard and want to use lighter because it looks best. With darker colors the fence absorbs the light which is happening in the weathered fence section. Thanks for your help.

We need opinions -- should we have them face it the correct way? Doesn't this layout make it look like it is ours? We took care of the fence for 30 years with ours facing the same way.