Hey guys anyone have a welding jig I could borrow? Will pay for shipping both ways of course! First build here..!
Also any advice you have on this specific one would be great

I picked up 2 Savage 720s over the weekend. It is late 30s and appears to operate as it should, but it has a cracked handguard. The other one is ww2 and has a broken charging handle, roll pin, and cracked barrel ring thing. I can't justify taking the complete operating one apart, and I can get the parts I need. BUT main question: What would you do to fix that barrel loop that rides on the magazine. Weld it? Silver solder it? Replace it(no idea if possible)? I would like to keep the correct ww2 barrel on it.

I recently purchased this Model 12 16ga Full choke for bird hunting & sporting clays. Well, what I and the shop thought was a 50's-ish build date, at a price I couldn't walk away from, turned out to actually be a 1942. I'm not wanting to totally restore it, as it's got a lovely charm. I'd like input on rebluing, or atleast how to protect and bring some life back into it.

The trigger group was the worst of it, evidence of it having sat upright, the guard's bluing is all but gone and light surface rusting has occurred. The magazine tube, along with the band missing a screw (Which I've already sourced the parts to repair), has the heaviest wear to where the pump rides. The barrel, particularly the muzzle is also in rough shape, I cleaned the surface rust off, but, the bluing is gone, there's heavy scratches at the slide.

I was considering the Birchwood Casey kit, but would be open to ideas, again, I'm not wanting to totally reblue it, just bring some life back, and protect it. Also, any input on what kind of paint to use to re-red the safety?

Edit: My title should have been "For gunsmithing, How Can I Immigrate to America?".

I have designed some truly unique firearms, such as unique mechanism lever action, truly hammerless revolver (not hidden hammer), hammer fired pistol with SA/DA, unique semiA shotguns, some new semiAuto-fullyAuto AR trigger mechanisms and some break barrels.

I've not made anything in real because it requires a licence in my country just to prototype.

I want to immigrate to America (USA) because I like the competitive spirit of all sciences, and want to compete in competitive shooting sports as a firearms guy with more freedom.

Is there any chance?

No beating around the bush answers please.

For starters this is perfectly legal in the state I’m in and it is mostly going to be for display but I’ve been doing research on how to make shotgun out of parts from a hardware store and I wanted to get some advice before I even start drawing it up so here are my questions

Has anyone tried this if so how did you do it? what’s the safest way to test it? how thick would a steel pipe need to be to handle 2 3/4 target loads ? Would I need to worry about tapering the chamber side of the pipe? Should I port the muzzle end? And is longer better than shorter? My ideal plan is to have with 28 inch barrels and another 20 for the stock. Would 18 inch barrels be safer pressure wise or the 28? Not trolling actually serious about designing and making it

I recently acquired this ar from a family member. Broke it out this afternoon to take a good look at it and she's well past a little dirty. There's this sticky gunk all over it that gun scrubber ain't working on. What can I use to get a better clean. The stuff on the barrel is pretty much hard but will flake off a little. I'd imagine its been hot a time or two.

Need help with Savage 110 Tactical + Boyd’s AT-One stock installation
I have a Savage 110 Tactical with an AICS-pattern magazine, and I recently installed a Boyd’s AT-One laminate thumbhole stock.
I’ve run into a few problems and would appreciate advice from anyone familiar with this setup.
After installing the Boyd’s stock, my trigger became extremely stiff and barely moved, almost like something was physically blocking it.
I noticed the magazine hinge/trigger-guard area was contacting the stock. I had trouble getting the long threaded action screw out because the hinge was in the way.
The hinge is held in place by a small hollow-looking pin that appears to be a roll pin.
I carved out a small amount of material around the area where the trigger was interfering. The trigger now works, but the bolt has become extremely tight.
I’m wondering whether the action is binding in the stock, whether the action screws or magazine-hinge assembly are causing the problem, or whether this stock requires a different fit or hardware.
My questions:
Has anyone installed a Boyd’s AT-One on a Savage 110 Tactical and run into similar issues?
Is the magazine-hinge assembly supposed to sit flush in the stock, or should there be clearance around it?
Could the stock or action-screw fit be causing both the trigger interference and the tight bolt?
What should I check to make sure the stock is compatible and the action is sitting correctly?
I haven’t fired the rifle since these issues started. I’d appreciate advice from anyone who has experience with this exact setup. I can post pictures of the hinge, stock inlet, and trigger area if needed.

I asked S&W as well as Bowen Classic Arms and sadly couldn't help me. I'm trying to source a .222" tall rear sight blade for my model 29-3 silhouette in .44 magnum. I bought it last year knowing the blade was broken. The rear sight base seems fine still. Can anyone help me out or perhaps point me towards someone who could make one?

I’ve used just about everything (spirit levels, Arisaka leveling tool, feeler gauges, eyeballing it, etc.). Currently mounting an older MK4 that was visibly off when using the Arisaka leveler due to the shape of the body. Is a plumb bob and flashlight my best bet or is there something more reliable? I know nothing is ever truly perfect but I wanna get as close as possible.

I shot about 8,000 rounds with my Beretta 686. The ejector on the upper barrel works fine only about 90% of the time if you open up quickly. If you do it a little bit too slow only the lower barrel ejector spring will eject the spent shell, the upper one stays pushed in and will eject a couple seconds later while you‘re already trying to get the shell out with your fingers. As one can imagine that is quite annoying.

Now, I‘ve cleaned the bloody thing with brake cleaner and got quite a bit of dirt out. I‘ve flooded it with gun oil on several occasions and pressing the ejector in it comes right back out with no resistance or scratching. What else could I do?

Also I‘ve had on a few occasions now, that the upper barrel will not fire after shooting the lower one. There‘s no imprint on the primer, the trigger just doesn’t do anything. It almost feels like the trigger is blocked.

I‘m usually only shooting single targets so not that problematic but still not like it‘s supposed to be.

Any advice?

I have a Mosin Nagant that my brother used corrosive military surplus ammo then put away without cleaning it. It sat in the safe for about a year.

I’m hoping to save it and would appreciate recommendations for cleaning products or methods to remove the rust. Has anyone dealt with something similar?

I’ve already ordered a carbon fiber cleaning rod, .30 caliber and 8mm bronze brushes, and bore mops.
Any advice would be appreciated!!

P.S. Lesson learned my brother’s Mosin privileges have been revoked.

Built out my first 300 blk AOW and trying to diagnose why my bolt won’t lock open on the last round of my mag. For reference, I am using an Andro Corp upper with an 8 in barrel and using an Armaspec SRS gen 4 H2 weight buffer system. What I find weird is that the bolt does actually lock open if only shooting with one round in the mag but not if I load in more. It’s tough to gauge ejection timing because I only have access to an indoor range but I am noticing the casings landing on the shooting platform and some behind me so I think it might be under gassed. If I swap out the weight to the “H” weight, could this lead to a catastrophic failure if I’m wrong about it being under gassed?

I've been taking machining, welding, and a few carpentry/furniture making classes at my local community college (Integrated studies degree) and I've been looking into the summer technician certificate Trinidad State offers. I might do the custom pistolsmithing and NRA safety instructor course as well if possible. I have the GI bill so tuition isn't a concern and I won't have to take out any loans or anything to support myself. I'd like to get into gunsmithing, but even if I just end up using what I learn for my own projects it's not the end of the world to me.

Has anyone here done any of those three certs? Would you do it again if you could go back?

How specialized is the pistolsmithing cert? Did the skills you learned translate much to other firearms?

General Trinidad questions: How was living in Trinidad and what's the school like?

I'm not a gunsmith, just a young collector. What you see is a total of seven separate stocks. I own several vetterli's and a mannlicher in desperate need of repair. The first six photos are three separate "tipo p" vetterli's. If possible, I'd like to repair as many of these to a shootable condition as possible.

I'm still in the process of cleaning everything.

I understand stripping the oils is generally necessary, but Is it possible to repair these without stripping what gives them their unique colors?

How would you go about these repairs? Is acraglas enough for some of these? Or will I need to drill holes and install wooden dowells and/or metal pins of some kind?

I want to do this correctly. But, some of these either appear too damaged for repair or simply stump me as to how I'll get glue or dowells/pins into the cracks for repair.

For example, photo #5 and #6 show's cracking and splitting, but the stock is still in one piece. I'm stumped as to how I'll get acraglas into it without causing more damage, or if that will even be enough to handle recoil.

As for photo's #7 and #8, how should i go about repairing the splits INSIDE of the stock?

Photo #1 and #2, although split/shattered, may be easier to repair since the stock is in several pieces already, only being held together by wire.

Thank you in advance, I appreciate any and all advice. I understand the possibility that I myself might not be capable of doing these repairs myself, but as I'm a broke collector, I'd prefer to repair them myself since professional repairs may cost more than the rifles themselves.

Civet 12 super shorty just need to square up, crown and thread the muzzle. Fabricate an actual barrel to replace the 3d printed placeholder and refinish.

I got an SAS Suppressor in that I was told was direct thread to 5/8-24, but which ended up being a TOMB thread 11/16-16 made specifically for SAS suppressors. They are out of business and though Area 419 was manufacturing adapters for them for years... they no longer do, and no longer have stock.

I have hit up Mile High and everyone else I knew that carried them, they are all out of stock.

I have tried everywhere I can think and can not locate one, so this suppressor is unusable to a find an adapter.

With that said, Any one know where I can get, I guess a custom, adapter for 5/8-24 female (rifle barrel side) to 11/16-16 male (suppressor side) that is rated for up to 300 mag?

If you have a direct link please feel free to DM me.

Hi All,

Over the last year, i've been on-and-off developing a precision chassis for one of my rifles.

I've been prototyping with my 3D Printer and I'm at the stage where I'd like to start an aluminium (or alloy whichever is cheaper at this point) prototype, however much like 99% of the population I don't own a 5-axis milling machine.

Has anyone done anything similar and can recommend a company that I can send the files to, have them manufacture it, and ship it back to me?

Edit: ideally, somewhere in Australia

Heritage Settler .22 rifle

I have a 3 week old 10/22 carbon fiber non-takedown (model 32014). Put 200 rounds of cci mini mag through it so far. While cleaning, I noticed an almost ramp-like wear on the breech face right above the extractor cut-out. Is this normal? The extractor is sitting nicely centered in that cutout, and when I slide the bolt back and forth by hand the extractor makes no contact with the edges of the cutout. Just goes right into it. What could possibly be causing this? Photo attached.

Edit: I have not experienced a single malfunction so far.

Brand new bought yesterday any idea where to get replacement