Hey guys anyone have a welding jig I could borrow? Will pay for shipping both ways of course! First build here..!
Also any advice you have on this specific one would be great

I picked up 2 Savage 720s over the weekend. It is late 30s and appears to operate as it should, but it has a cracked handguard. The other one is ww2 and has a broken charging handle, roll pin, and cracked barrel ring thing. I can't justify taking the complete operating one apart, and I can get the parts I need. BUT main question: What would you do to fix that barrel loop that rides on the magazine. Weld it? Silver solder it? Replace it(no idea if possible)? I would like to keep the correct ww2 barrel on it.

I recently purchased this Model 12 16ga Full choke for bird hunting & sporting clays. Well, what I and the shop thought was a 50's-ish build date, at a price I couldn't walk away from, turned out to actually be a 1942. I'm not wanting to totally restore it, as it's got a lovely charm. I'd like input on rebluing, or atleast how to protect and bring some life back into it.

The trigger group was the worst of it, evidence of it having sat upright, the guard's bluing is all but gone and light surface rusting has occurred. The magazine tube, along with the band missing a screw (Which I've already sourced the parts to repair), has the heaviest wear to where the pump rides. The barrel, particularly the muzzle is also in rough shape, I cleaned the surface rust off, but, the bluing is gone, there's heavy scratches at the slide.

I was considering the Birchwood Casey kit, but would be open to ideas, again, I'm not wanting to totally reblue it, just bring some life back, and protect it. Also, any input on what kind of paint to use to re-red the safety?

Edit: My title should have been "For gunsmithing, How Can I Immigrate to America?".

I have designed some truly unique firearms, such as unique mechanism lever action, truly hammerless revolver (not hidden hammer), hammer fired pistol with SA/DA, unique semiA shotguns, some new semiAuto-fullyAuto AR trigger mechanisms and some break barrels.

I've not made anything in real because it requires a licence in my country just to prototype.

I want to immigrate to America (USA) because I like the competitive spirit of all sciences, and want to compete in competitive shooting sports as a firearms guy with more freedom.

Is there any chance?

No beating around the bush answers please.

I recently acquired this ar from a family member. Broke it out this afternoon to take a good look at it and she's well past a little dirty. There's this sticky gunk all over it that gun scrubber ain't working on. What can I use to get a better clean. The stuff on the barrel is pretty much hard but will flake off a little. I'd imagine its been hot a time or two.

Need help with Savage 110 Tactical + Boyd’s AT-One stock installation
I have a Savage 110 Tactical with an AICS-pattern magazine, and I recently installed a Boyd’s AT-One laminate thumbhole stock.
I’ve run into a few problems and would appreciate advice from anyone familiar with this setup.
After installing the Boyd’s stock, my trigger became extremely stiff and barely moved, almost like something was physically blocking it.
I noticed the magazine hinge/trigger-guard area was contacting the stock. I had trouble getting the long threaded action screw out because the hinge was in the way.
The hinge is held in place by a small hollow-looking pin that appears to be a roll pin.
I carved out a small amount of material around the area where the trigger was interfering. The trigger now works, but the bolt has become extremely tight.
I’m wondering whether the action is binding in the stock, whether the action screws or magazine-hinge assembly are causing the problem, or whether this stock requires a different fit or hardware.
My questions:
Has anyone installed a Boyd’s AT-One on a Savage 110 Tactical and run into similar issues?
Is the magazine-hinge assembly supposed to sit flush in the stock, or should there be clearance around it?
Could the stock or action-screw fit be causing both the trigger interference and the tight bolt?
What should I check to make sure the stock is compatible and the action is sitting correctly?
I haven’t fired the rifle since these issues started. I’d appreciate advice from anyone who has experience with this exact setup. I can post pictures of the hinge, stock inlet, and trigger area if needed.

For starters this is perfectly legal in the state I’m in and it is mostly going to be for display but I’ve been doing research on how to make shotgun out of parts from a hardware store and I wanted to get some advice before I even start drawing it up so here are my questions

Has anyone tried this if so how did you do it? what’s the safest way to test it? how thick would a steel pipe need to be to handle 2 3/4 target loads ? Would I need to worry about tapering the chamber side of the pipe? Should I port the muzzle end? And is longer better than shorter? My ideal plan is to have with 28 inch barrels and another 20 for the stock. Would 18 inch barrels be safer pressure wise or the 28? Not trolling actually serious about designing and making it