So I live in a rural area with my mom and she bought Att Air which has been an upgrade from our old internet router with them. It’s faster and more consistent. HOWEVER I cannot connect my switch to it and my Xbox barely reaches 14 mbps while downloading games. Xbox wouldn’t even download a game until I changed the DNS configuration. Switch is still a no go.

I have no clue what any of these things truly mean, but I think it’s because Air essentially doesn’t provide me with a unique IP address? And Xbox and Nintendo need these things? But I read somewhere that routing the internet through VPN could solve this? I have NordVPN. How can I make this work or do I need to purchase/set up something else?

Idk if it’s helpful but whenever I try to connect the switch, it says it needs registration and takes me to a Java log in page, but I don’t know the username or password or how to set one up. Please see photo.

Please also be kind. I have no background in tech or coding. This is another language to me and also very frustrating. Thank you!

I've been trying to help out a friend with getting her router set up with an SSID on a schedule so it shuts off at night. To cut a long story short her kid is smart but has medical intervention grade impulse control problems. Ended up in the hospital over playing games every night all night after mom and dad were in bed. So we want an SSID that she can connect anything to and it will just stop working during sleep time. The kicker is that we still need the iot devices like the doorbell and mom's phone to function during the blackout. Most of the scheduling features just disable the radio completely.

I've considered a second router with a kill switch but the router isn't physically secured and the kid is smart enough to click a power button.

I'm just trying to figure out the cheapest plug and play option for this, but not sure where the "it has scheduling" and the it has a guest network you can schedule apart from the main SSID line is. Any insight?

Cost is a major factor so she is looking as cheap as possible, but at this point I'm more curious for myself at what point the switch happens... Honestly I'm considering buying a unifi dream router and saying Merry Christmas.

My broadband speed is fine, but a couple of rooms still get weak Wi-Fi and buffering.

For anyone who had the same issue, what helped more: moving the router, adding mesh Wi-Fi, or upgrading the plan?

I've been trying to find the cheapest possible router that allows VLAN/VAP, Ad/malware blocking, Encrypted DNS and tools to help with bufferbloat while gaming (wired) in a 1300sq ft apartment (need wifi for phones as i get no signal in my apartment due to it having a metal roof). That can handle a 500/25mbps connection that will be upgraded to a 500/500mbps connection at some point in the future. I also didn't want to use OpenWRT, so thought my only real option was the Express 7 for $200+ or the Dream Router 7 for $300+. I'm no network expert, but can someone tell me if my thinking here (and Gemini) is correct when it comes to something like the new MikroTik hAP be lite. Since it supports opensource adblock/malware lists that means it has better adblocking and malware blocking than the Dream Router 7 for $80 only? It also supports CAKE, while the Express 7 and Dream Router 7 have a 300mbps limit on smart queueing. CAKE should have no issues Smart Shaping on a 500/25 or 500/500 connection to help with bufferbloat? I was also looking at the hAP be³ Media which is another new MikroTik router that supports running containers on it. I was originally going to buy this as i thought i needed something like AdGuard Home to get proper adblocking/malware blocking and encrypted DNS, but now that RouterOS supports the adblock/malware lists this would be a huge waste of $180 for me? Does AdGuard Home really use the same blocking lists that you can just add to RouterOS now? Can someone who has a better understand of all this confirm that my thinking/gemini is correct and the HAP Be Lite would be the perfect router for my apartment while saving me $100-200+?

Hello all,

I am planning on a big networking project for my home to install security cameras and ethernet drops to various rooms throughout the house. I plan to put my server in the laundry room. I am wondering if the amount of cameras, ethernet drops. if ap placement is adequte for my home and if my server gear is appropriate. Each ethernet wall jack will have 2 connections.

I am planning to use Cat6a S/FTP and routing most of the cables in the crawlspace underneath the house. There is some attic access above the bedrooms as well.

I am planning a camera at least on each corner of the house + 1 on the shed aiming toward the back entrance + 1 door bell.

Thanks

Hey guys,

I have a Linksys LN1301 WiFi 6 Router that's connected in the living room to the internet (Sonic) but connecting to the wifi from my room is really, really spotty and weak. I bought an Amazon Eero 6e Pro off FB Marketplace and reset the thing, and was wondering if I can place that in my room to help out with the wifi signal/strength. I'm unsure if I can have two different kinds/brands of routers to make this work, and how to actually make it exactly work if I can.

Thanks in advance and sorry if it sounds like a dumb question.

So I just moved into a new build and have a Spectrum fiber.

I purchased MoCa Adapter and tried this.

Modem -> Router -> MoCa adapter -> Coax -> MoCa Adapter.

But Coax didn't light up and I tried every Coax in the house but none of them were connecting adapters.

So I realized that I have 7 cables hanging outside wall and did the DIY Coax installation and connected with MoCa compatible splitter and plugged them into all OUT ports. Nothing in IN port since I'm just connecting it from the modem. But still not connecting MoCa adapters.

Am I still missing a step or is there something else outside of my control that I need to call an electrician?

🧠 Los dos pilares técnicos de sping

¿Por qué funciona sin sudo siendo más avanzado?
El comando ping tradicional surgió cuando los sistemas operativos exigían abrir un socket RAW para enviar un paquete ICMP Echo Request. Como estos sockets permiten falsificar cabeceras y observar la red, Linux exigía privilegios de administrador. Para evitarlo, el binario clásico suele usar el bit SUID (se ejecuta como root oculto), lo que supone un riesgo de seguridad.
sping lo resuelve desde la base:
Emplea sockets de datagramas ICMP sin privilegios (net.ipv4.pinggrouprange), una función moderna del kernel de Linux con soporte nativo en macOS y Windows.
En lugar de pedir acceso completo a la tarjeta de red, solicita al kernel que gestione el envío del paquete ICMP de manera segura en el espacio de usuario.
Resultado: sin riesgos por escalada de privilegios, ejecución limpia en contenedores Docker minimalistas y cumplimiento de las directrices de seguridad actuales.

¿Por qué es tan brutalmente eficiente?
El ping clásico suele ser síncrono y lineal: envía un paquete, aguarda el tiempo de espera y luego lanza el siguiente. Si se intenta un ping masivo a múltiples IPs con un script en Bash, el sistema debe abrir docenas de procesos en paralelo, saturando la tabla de procesos.
sping aprovecha la arquitectura moderna de Rust:
Motor asíncrono con Tokio: usa un bucle de eventos ligero. No genera un hilo del sistema operativo por cada host; gestiona miles de objetivos en paralelo dentro de un único proceso mediante tareas virtuales muy eficientes (Green Threads).
Gestión de memoria sin coste: Rust elimina la necesidad de un recolector de basura. sping determina con precisión su uso de memoria en tiempo de compilación. Por ello, al vigilar decenas de servidores simultáneamente, su consumo se mantiene en unos ~4 MB de RAM y el uso de CPU es inferior al 1%.

Hello. I am in the market for a singular access point for my “den” room in the back of my house. My house is L shaped and my rg is currently in a far corner bedroom. I’ve struggled with wifi in the back of the house for awhile and just recently pulled two cat6 cables back there with the intention of having a single access point to help with wifi in that room and my shop in the backyard. Shop is within ten feet of the back wall where the access point will be.

I’ve read good things about unifi but wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations first. Thank you all

I am moving out on my own for the first time. I am a single person working from home. I use cloud services for modeling projects 8 hours a day (autodesk revit projects saved on the cloud). I also use streaming services on my TV for leisure time. I have zero experience with this topic. Do I need unlimited internet?

Edit: thanks for all the advice everyone! Obviously the answer is to do research about options

is there reliable way how to transfer images or stream video from security camera over Wi-Fi (or any other wireless technology/network) between 2 points 150m away with mostly direct view? There is only one big tree between both points. But it is in the city where are hundreds wifi networks...

thank you

The wired connection between my mesh router and satellite went out so I went into my crawl space to investigate. I found this damage right where the cable enters the basement from the crawl space. I live in the woods and there are a lot of mice around so it seems likely that they chewed the cable. But the dark coloring around the damage looks like maybe a short circuit and burning/melting? I’m not use PoE so I thought that would be unlikely with a basic data only cat6 cable.

Anyway what is the best way to fix this and make sure it doesn’t happen again? Should I use conduit for all cable in the crawl space? Can I splice in a length of cable here (there are slack loops on the other side) or should I replace the whole cable? Thanks!

As the title says I'm looking for suggestions for a large and pretty old brick farm house. It's my grandparents place, theyre finally getting wired with internet and want my help. Problem is, I've only ever lived in small apartments so I've never had to worry about signal and therefore I just get the cheapest router with high speeds.

I've tried doing a bunch of research but I'm not very tech savvy, and the jargon just confuses me lol.

Looking for something that is able to handle streaming, and when the family visits for holidays maybe have 2-4 people on it at once (otherwise typically just 1 device at a time).

House in question is around 2800 sq ft.

Access point where comcast will be running the wire is in the far corner of the first floor.

I'm looking for something easy to set up- but most importantly it needs to be stable. I will be the one who has to go fix it when their internet goes down lol

Unfortunately hardwired is not an option.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Looking for a mesh wifi system. 3500sqft. Home. I have an old Google mesh system (1 router bridged from my isp router and one point put upstairs). The room at the front of the house only get at best 100mb download speed on a 1gb internet package. And often just drops and completely loses wifi. ( I have a m4 Mac mini and m1 macobook for reference.) my biggest issue is constantly losing internet connection.

There’s no Ethernet wiring in the upstairs of the home. And the router is hard wired to the living room (main floor back of home). Only spot it can be placed.

Looking for something that can carry close to the 1gb speed (at least 600+mb) to the “dead room”. Price range of 300-450CAD.

I’m thinking a wifi 6e triband system with 3 points? Need advice. :)

This is what I was thinking;
TP-Link Deco AXE5400 Tri-Band WiFi 6E Mesh System (Deco XE75) $379Cad.

But if there’s better options or alternatives i’m open to hearing.

Greetings, I’m sure this has been asked and solved but I wasn’t able to find something that pertained to my exact situation. I’m looking for something advice on extending my WiFi to my shop(metal building). I previously had Starlink at my house and set up a mesh node in my shop, and with the roll up doors open I could get about 20-30mbps download speed which I was fine with. I have recently got fiber installed so I dropped the star link, the router I have now won’t reach reliably out to the shop (about 75 feet from the house) and I’m looking at getting some kind of WiFi adapter/extender/bridge. I’ve done a little research on the topic but can’t really find what the best solution would be. I’d like to be able to use the WiFi in the shop with the doors closed ideally. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

I have this, anyone else who has this know what the best settings are?
Also I have comcast out here and the "boost a device" feature on their app doesn't seem to do anything. Doesn't help that it reads my PC as "Generic Brand Windows", so idk if that is a problem.

Hey everyone!

Just curious with these MoCa adapters, I always see diagram showing the adapter plugged into the home’s entire coax system, including the line out to the provider.

Then comes the complication of needing a POE filter.

If I have a jack in my bedroom, and there is the other end to that jack in the basement next to my modem, can I not put an adapter on each end of that coax to essentially make it a sealed system?

Do I still need a POE filter in that instance? Do the adapters still work in that configuration, or does it require a being on the same line/splitter system as the drop from ISP?

I’m sorry if these are dumb questions, just a man trying to get some ethernet in a nearly century old home 😪

Edit: also is there any sort of test I can do on the wires to ensure they are capable of MoCa? I want to use the GoCoax 2.5 system but I remember reading something about certain splitters being incompatible.

Home network doesn't work. Ran a tester, it's not connected straight through. Pattern reads out as 5-4-1-8-7-2-3-6 on tester.

Hi all,

New to the group and I’ve had a scan through, but can’t find a previous post that seems to be specific to my issue.

The story so far…

I’ve run a length of Cat6A from my router into the loft, then down into an upstairs cupboard and into a TP Link unmanaged switch. The uplink has been tested and works fine. I’ve then made and ran 6A patch cables that run out of the switch and into two RJ45 modular keystone wall panels, bedroom one and bedroom two. Cat6A run through the walls and terminated at a secondary RJ45 modular keystone panel in either room. Bedroom two is running fine, cable tester shows all wires and in tact and no breaks. However, bedroom one is missing signal from several wires.

My mystery is that all runs of Cat6A from switch to termination all test fine (network switch to keystone, keystone to keystone, patch cable for testing in the bedroom), so are the keystones the problem? I purchased Cat6 modular keystone sockets from Amazon, but I’m using 6A. Could there be an interference issue here with the keystones being ungrounded? I’m reluctant to purchase shielded keystones if this is unlikely to be the issue.

Thanks in advance.

Hi all, first time posting here, would like to seek advice regarding my intended Wifi setup for my new place with 4 rooms in a high-rise flat. I have been informed of potential (highly likely) “dead zones” in similar flat layouts, and would like to not suffer from any angst as a result of it, if possible.

Adopting the access point (ceiling-mounted) method instead of relying on mesh nodes.

I’m totally not a technical person :’)

The broadband plan:
- Gonna recontract soon & also relocate to a new place at the same time. My ISP is giving a free Amazon eero Pro 7 10 Gbps Router for 10Gbps plan. From their website, it shows that the router has 2 10Gbps ports, a USB-C power slot and a reset button. (WAN is auto-sensing, ok to connect to any port)

Inside the DB box (have not bought the hardware yet):

- Patch panel & Fiber Termination Point wall box already installed by network infrastructure provider.
- TP-Link TL-SX105 5-Port 10G Desktop Switch
- TP-Link Omada POE380S 10G 90W PoE++ Injector
- Amazon eero Pro 7 10 Gbps Router and modem (from ISP)
- External USB fan for ventilation
- 4-way or 5-way power strip extension cord

Mounted on the ceiling:

- TP-Link EAP787 BE15000 Ceiling Mount Tri-Band Wi-Fi 7 Access Point
- A cat6 cable will extend from the DB box to the false ceiling (somewhere in the middle of the hallway) and connect to the ceiling-mounted Access Point (does not require a power point as an external PoE injector will “power” it)

Is the setup ok? Some of my fam work from home and do light gaming. We don’t have a smart TV or surveillance cams yet. Thanks for reading!

Can anyone tell if this is Cat3 or Cat5?

Hello this old phone patch panel is in my condo. I am trying to decide and research what it would take to convert this to Ethernet drop.

Newbie here when it comes to home internet and networking, and really need advice.

Living in the UK, new build house. Currently have BT Fibre to the house. 6 years ago I got a Linksys Velop MX4000 (2pk) from the Apple Store; plugged it in and that's been working fine until the last six months.

The main router is working fine, about six months ago the second node broke (physically) and the last weeks the main router has been playing up - cutting on/off, not best wifi signal at the backend of the house.

What should I replace it with? Just another home mesh network? - this is where it all goes over my head and need advice on.

Devices in the House

3 iPhones, 2 MacBooks, 1 iPad, 4 HomePods, 1 AppleTV, Hue Lighting systems (37 bulbs), Aqara devices (4 camera, multiple sensors), Tado Heating System (9 radiator valves).