I’m troubleshooting a friend’s PC and would appreciate a second opinion before returning the motherboard. Whenever the SATA data cable is connected to the motherboard, the PC powers on but gives no display and I cannot enter BIOS. This also happens when a known-good SATA data cable is plugged into the motherboard only, with the other end left completely disconnected.

Hardware

- Motherboard: Gigabyte B550M K rev. 1.0

- BIOS: F7

- CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600XT

- RAM: Patriot Viper Elite II, 2 x 8 GB DDR4-3200

- SSD: Goodram CX400 1 TB, 2.5-inch SATA

- GPU: ASRock Radeon RX 9060 XT 16 GB

- PSU: Gigabyte GP-P650SS, 650 W

- Case: Antec AX20

What happened and what I tested

1. Before the SATA problem, the PC had a separate problem where it powered on but showed no display. We reseated the RAM and GPU and cleared CMOS; after that, the PC started normally and we could enter BIOS.

2. Only after that earlier problem was fixed did we connect the SATA SSD. From that point on, connecting the SATA data cable to the motherboard made the PC power on with no display every time, and we could not enter BIOS.

3. SATA power connected by itself did not prevent POST.

4. Connecting the SATA data cable to the SSD made the PC power on with no display every time.

5. The SSD was taken to a shop. They formatted it and confirmed that the SSD worked there. The old SATA data cable also worked there.

6. I replaced the data cable with a new cable known to work. The PC still powered on with no display every time.

7. I tried all four motherboard SATA ports. The result was the same on each one.

8. I tried different SATA power connectors/cables from the PSU. The result was the same.

9. BIOS settings checked: SATA mode is AHCI and Chipset SATA Port Enable is Enabled. The ports show “Not Installed” when no drive is connected.

10. I tested one RAM stick at a time in the A2 slot, using both sticks.

11. I reseated the GPU.

12. The most revealing test: with the SSD disconnected at the far end, I plugged the new known-good SATA cable into a motherboard SATA port only. The PC still powered on with no display, and I could not enter BIOS. With no SATA cable inserted, it started normally.

Current question

So my question is, what else could I test before RMA-ing the motherboard? I don’t have another motherboard to test. I was thinking of taking it to a repair shop so they can perhaps swap the motherboard.

Hey everyone,
Hoping someone here can help me diagnose an ongoing issue with my PC because it’s getting to the point where it’s seriously affecting my work.
I’m a full-time photographer/videographer and primarily use Adobe Premiere Pro, Photoshop and Lightroom.
Earlier this year, I upgraded from a much older PC to a brand new custom built system. I purchased it in March 2026 from a reputable PC builder here in Australia.

PC SPECS:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
CPU Cooler: Thermalright 240 ARGB Liquid Cooler
GPU: NVIDIA RTX 5070 12GB
RAM: 32GB DDR5 6000MHz
Motherboard: MSI B650M Gaming WiFi
PSU: 750W Cooler Master ATX 3.1
Storage: 2TB Biwin M350 NVMe SSD
OS: Windows 11 Home
Case: Cataclysm Voyager Black Tower with 6 case fans

Initial Problems
Pretty much ever since I purchased the PC, I’ve experienced occasional crashes, predominantly when using Adobe Premiere Pro.
Initially, the crashes would happen when doing things like:
- Importing or transferring files in and out of Premiere Pro.
- Scrubbing through timelines.
- Working with larger video projects.
- General editing and playback.

When I say crashing, I mean the entire PC instantly shuts off. No blue screen, no error message, no warning. Everything immediately loses power, including the fans and RGB lighting.

I contacted the PC manufacturer, and after some troubleshooting, they remotely disabled the CPU’s integrated graphics.

This actually seemed to improve things significantly. The crashes became much less frequent, although they would still happen occasionally.

For a while, I just dealt with it because it wasn’t happening often enough to seriously interrupt my workflow.

Recent Problems — Much Worse
Over the last month or two, the problem has progressively gotten worse, particularly over the last couple of weeks.
It’s now happening almost daily, sometimes multiple times in a single editing session.
One of the strangest things I’ve noticed is that closing an Adobe application and then reopening it seems to trigger a complete system shutdown.

For example:
- I’ll be working in Premiere Pro.
- I’ll close the application normally.
- I’ll try to reopen Premiere Pro.
- The entire PC instantly switches off.
- I’ll turn the PC back on.
- If I immediately try opening Premiere again, the PC will often shut off again.
- However, if I leave the PC sitting idle for a few minutes after restarting, I can usually open Premiere without it immediately crashing.

This behaviour is extremely consistent.

It’s No Longer Just Premiere Pro
Initially, the problem was almost exclusively happening in Premiere Pro.
However, recently I’ve experienced the same complete shutdowns when:
- Exporting photographs in Adobe Lightroom (regular Lightroom, not Classic).
- Opening Adobe Photoshop.
- Opening or reopening Premiere Pro.
- Editing and scrubbing through timelines.
- I’ve also experienced occasional crashes outside Adobe applications, although I’d estimate that around 95% of them occur while using Adobe software.

Most Recent Incident
Today, I was doing some relatively intensive editing in Premiere Pro when the entire application appeared to freeze.
My screen then went completely black, but interestingly, the PC itself remained powered on.
After a short period, the display returned, but Premiere Pro was no longer functioning properly. I couldn’t get video playback working.
This was different from my usual crashes, where the entire system instantly loses power.
I’ve also experienced instances where the computer completely freezes, including the mouse becoming unresponsive.
During one of these freezes, I held the physical power button to force a shutdown, but it took approximately 35 seconds for the PC to actually turn off.

Troubleshooting So Far
I’ve contacted the PC manufacturer about the issue previously.
They initially disabled integrated graphics, which significantly reduced the frequency of crashes but never completely eliminated them.
We’ve also performed stress testing on the PC, and everything appeared to run normally without crashing.
Unfortunately, I don’t remember exactly which stress-testing software was used.
What confuses me is that the PC can apparently handle stress tests without any problems, yet something as simple as reopening Photoshop or Premiere can cause it to instantly lose power.

My Questions
I’m trying to work out whether this is potentially:
- A faulty or unstable power supply.
- A GPU or graphics driver issue.
- Improperly seated or unstable DDR5 RAM.
- A motherboard issue.
- Something specifically related to Adobe applications and hardware acceleration.

The instant loss of power makes me wonder about the PSU,

The fact that the system often needs to sit idle for a few minutes after restarting before I can successfully launch Adobe applications is also really confusing.

Has anyone experienced anything similar?

Are there any specific diagnostic tests, Windows logs or hardware checks you’d recommend to help narrow down the actual cause?

The PC is still under warranty, but I’d ideally like to identify the issue before having to ship the entire computer interstate for repairs.

Any advice would be massively appreciated. I’m relying on this computer for my full-time work, and the constant crashes are becoming a serious problem.

• Hi everyone, I'm dealing with a very stubborn BIOS/Secure Boot issue and I'm hoping someone might have a workaround that doesn't involve a BIOS flash.

My PC has been working reliably for months, but over the past week it’s developed increasingly serious problems. I’m trying to narrow down the cause before spending money replacing components.
Specs:
CPU: Ryzen 9 3900XT
Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI
GPU: Sapphire Pulse RX 9070 (less than a year old)
RAM: 32 GB DDR4
PSU: Cooler Master MWE 750W or 850W
OS: Nobara Linux
BIOS: 2.P1 (July 2026)
Initially, the PC began spontaneously rebooting during boot and gaming. Linux reported fatal AMD machine-check errors:
```MC5_STATUS: 0xbea0000000000108
IPID: 0x000500b000000000
Syndrome: 0x000000004d000000
```
The kernel also reported an uncorrectable error causing an AMD Data Fabric sync flood.
I disabled XMP and ran four passes of Memtest86+ with zero errors, but the crashes continued.
Switching from Nobara kernel 7.2.11 to 7.2.10 initially seemed to fix things. I played Cyberpunk for hours without problems.
However, after approximately 11 hours of uptime, both monitors suddenly lost signal while gaming. Audio continued briefly before stopping, and the system completely froze.
The logs showed:

```
amdgpu: device lost from bus!
SMU: bus error ... response:0xFFFFFFFF
Failed to export SMU metrics table!
```

GPU reset attempts failed. On subsequent boots, AMDGPU also reported SMU/PSP initialization failures.
Now the PC sometimes won’t even POST. The motherboard’s VGA debug LED stays illuminated, and neither monitor receives a signal. No MSI logo or GRUB appears, so this isn’t exclusively a Linux boot issue.

I am at my wits end here and I do not know what to do. Please help.

A while back my old user file got corrupted so I had to make a whole new user profile and shift all my files there. Since the old user file took alot of space, I deleted everything in it but since then my bluetooth and graphic card has not been working at all. I tried uninstalling bluetooth from the device manager, restarted my pc but nothing appeared. And I have no idea what to do with my graphic card situation. I am not a tech person at all, nor I do know the terms. What should I do?

Update: fixed!

last July, my dad got me a headphone (a light blue Fresh n' Rebel, but I don't know the exact model) and it has always worked well, but this evening I tried connecting it to my laptop and it didn't work. It makes the sound of when it's connected, but I hear nothing for abt 10 seconds and then it automatically disconnects and makes the disconnecting sound, automatically reconnects rinse repeat...

I've tried re-starting my headphones but it keeps happening, I feel like an old granny for asking this but does anyone know what to do??

Hi all, Dell laptop on Windows 11 suddenly stopped recognizing Logitech wired mouse in the middle of using it; have worked fine together for over a year. Mouse works fine when plugged into another computer, and other devices work when plugged into the laptop's USB-A ports, but even after installing any pending driver updates and restarting the computer, the mouse doesn't turn on when plugged into either port.

So at 1 in the morning I git hit by a massive nasty virus attack. 100% Trojans, possibly Spyware but im not sure.

I secured all my accounts, ran a deep scan and bitdefender several times before hard resetting and formatting the pc. Re installing windows and all. I have now changed all passwords and enabled all possible mfa's.

Do it still need to watch out for a possible second attempt or can I go to sleep being secured?

com.rovio.angrybirds INSTALL FAILED NO MATCHING ABIS INSTALL FAILED NO MATCHING ABIS: Failed to extract native libraries, res=-113

I need help with my bluetooth.Yaar mere bluetooth ka problem aara h laptop m.Bluetooth is turning on but my bluetooth devices aren't getting discoverable and if discovered after minutes they get connected but no voice comes and then disconnectes after 5-6 seconds

Hi everyone,

I've been running into an annoying visual glitch in File Explorer recently. Occasionally, some of the common system/drive icons inside "This PC" turn into blurry, low-resolution versions (as shown in the attached screenshot).

Here are a few key details about the issue:

• Selective occurrence: It doesn't happen to every icon, only certain common/system icons inside "This PC".
• Thumbnails are unaffected: Media thumbnails and preview icons display perfectly fine at full resolution.
• Temporary workaround: Restarting explorer.exe (via Task Manager) instantly fixes the icons, but the issue eventually returns after some time.

Has anyone else experienced this? Is it an Icon Cache corruption, a display scaling (DPI) glitch, or something related to GPU caching?

Any advice on a permanent fix would be greatly appreciated!

(Windows 11)

https://postimg.cc/gallery/jR3TQ0z

4 pictures of the battery info. its about 1 yr old. hardly used, never left home, she didnt get along with the laptop. previously she had a full pc. she wanted a larger screen then the small phone. we got her some tablet instead

people asking me how much use/wear/health of the battery and I dont know how to read the info

any help appreciated

When I press Play on Stalker 2 (Steam), the status says “Launching”. It flashes “Stop” (as if the game is running) for a split second, then goes back to “Launching” until I cancel it. No window ever appears and there’s no error message.

My system

• CPU: i7-11700F
• GPU: RTX 3070
• RAM: 16GB DDR4
• Game installed on: SSD

What I’ve tried so far:

• Updated GPU drivers
• Verified game files
• Fully reinstalled the game
• Launch options -dx11 and -dx12
• Clean boot (disabled all non-Microsoft services and startup apps). RAM usage dropped from about 11.2 GB to 7.7 GB, so it did take effect.
• Checked the Steam Client Service pop-up that appeared after the clean boot. It’s not an issue.
• Deleting game save files
• Launched Stalker2-Win64-Shipping.exe directly from Binaries\Win64

What I’ve found

• I collected Stalker2.log from %localappdata%\Stalker2\Saved\Logs across several attempts, including with the clean boot. They all stop at the same point, around the FSR initialization lines.
• Each log ends with a normal “Log file closed” about a second after the last line. There’s no error, crash message, or Windows crash report in Event Viewer.
• There’s an empty GameLaunchCrashFlag file in the Saved folder. I couldn’t find any documentation for it. My guess is the game creates it at launch and removes it after a successful start, which would just confirm the launch never completes.
• The clean boot changed nothing, so background apps and overlays are probably not the cause.

It would be amazing if I could play the game I paid for, so any help would be really appreciated.

I'm using an external ssd which has all the data from my previous dead laptop, I want to use the external ssd as extra space for games and such but don't know how to move forward with freeing up the space.

Do I just save all the files I need on my local disk and delete everything afterwards?
Or do I need to cleanly uninstall them using every apps uninstall software?
Or use a third party uninstaller software?

I have a Windows 11 PC hooked up to two monitors and a TV, all directly wired through Displayport or HDMI. The two monitors are my normal use PC setup, the TV I want to leave plugged in but off so that when I use it to watch shows I can just turn it on and run everything through the PC.

My issue is that every so often while the TV is off, the two monitors will behave as if another monitor was just disconnected/plugged in. The windows briefly resize, then black out for a moment, then returns to normal. It never does this if the TV is on, it never does this if the TV is disconnected.

I have tried configuring the TV to extend the desktop, I have tried mirroring either the primary or secondary display, I have also turned off the Windows setting to minimize windows when a monitor is disconnected. Nothing I have been able to think of changes the behavior.

GPU is a 4080, monitors are ASUS ROG XG32UCWG 32 Inch 4K, ASUS ROG XG27AQDMGR 27 Inch 1440p. TV is a TCL QM7k.

Appreciate any ideas.

My iPad is new, it’s a iPad 9th generation I think (correct me if wrong).

I don’t use it excessively so I definitely haven’t worn the battery life or anything because I’ve probably used it 20 times at most since getting it which I use it for YouTube or Roblox.

It died the other night as I forgot to plug the charger in whilst using it and then I went to charge it the next morning.

In my head i believe when it’s not charging it shows a red bar and a lightning cable and when it is it just shows a red bar (if that’s what the symbols mean)

I went to plug it in and it showed just a red bar which shows battery low so I left my iPad for 2 hours charging and it wouldn’t turn on so I tried googling and it said their may be stuff in the charging port.

I got my brother to check for me and he said it looks clean and we cleaned it with a brush just to be sure and still no luck.

I’ve tried different cables and plugs and different sockets two and also at a different house.

I’m lost on what to do and I need my iPad to do my assignment which is due in a week.

I own Baldurs Gate 3 on my Microsoft account. It supports Play anywwere and I am looking for a way to stream it from my Windows PC to my Macbook using Steam. I do not want to stream it from my Xbox console (which would be possible) because the console version does not support mouse and keyboard controls while the PC version does.

Is there a way to achieve this and add Xbox app PC games to Steam as external apps that can be streamed?

I am running Windows 11 on my PC and Golden Gate on my Macbook. Both computers are on the same local Wifi.

Hey guys! have an apple ipad (I dont know which version but has a home button)

Usually, when it dies it is normal and when charged will boot back up.

Yesterday it died and when charged would turn back on and the red battery logo thing would just show up. Have tried restarting with power button, different cables, etc.

One important detail, around 3 months ago the charging port did get damaged and still, only charges when cable is put in at at angle.

Would appreciate any help thanks!

My laptop was working perfectly fine, but out of nowhere it stopped connecting to Wi-Fi. I went to my college library and couldn’t connect to either my phone’s hotspot or the school’s free Wi-Fi. I haven’t gotten home yet, so I don’t know if my home Wi-Fi will work.

Troubleshooting I’ve tried:
Reset my network settings in Windows.
Restarted my laptop. The Wi-Fi option disappeared after the network reset but came back after restarting.
Looked into possible DNS issues and tried troubleshooting with Command Prompt (ipconfig /flushdns and ipconfig /registerdns).
Checked the eero app my mom uses. My laptop shows as offline but isn’t blocked.

Everything was working fine before this happened, and I have no idea what caused it. Has anyone experienced this or knows what else I should try?

Hi everyone,
I’m posting because I’ve been trying to solve a persistent gaming smoothness issue for quite some time, and I still haven’t been able to identify the actual cause.
I’ve invested a significant amount of money into my PC and replaced almost every major hardware component, yet I continue to experience inconsistent motion smoothness, particularly in competitive games.
My main issue isn’t low FPS. It’s poor perceived motion smoothness, even when frametime graphs appear stable.
My PC Specifications
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti Windforce 16GB
Motherboard: MSI MPG X870E Carbon WiFi
RAM: 32GB G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo DDR5 6000MHz CL30
SSD: Samsung 980 NVMe 1TB
Monitor: HP OMEN 27qs, 27-inch IPS, 2560×1440, 240Hz
PSU: 1000W
CPU Cooling: 360mm AIO
Operating System: Windows 11
Network: Fiber-optic Ethernet connection, Realtek 2.5GbE controller
1. Poor Motion Smoothness Despite Stable Frametimes
While gaming, especially when moving the camera slowly or quickly, the image often feels inconsistent, jittery, or slightly shaky.
What’s particularly frustrating is that this happens even when the frametime graph looks relatively stable.
For example, I can observe frametime fluctuations between 5.7ms and 6.1ms without any obvious spikes, yet camera movement still doesn’t look completely smooth.
I’ve experienced the same behavior using both mouse and keyboard and a controller.
2. Call of Duty
In Call of Duty, particularly during more demanding campaign sections, camera movement can become noticeably inconsistent.
Multiplayer generally performs better, but I still struggle to achieve the level of smoothness I’m looking for.
I’ve tested multiple combinations of:
Low, medium, and high graphics settings.
Different DLSS modes and presets.
1080p and 1440p resolutions.
Uncapped FPS and manual frame limiters.
NVIDIA Reflex.
Different CPU and RAM configurations.
Despite all these adjustments, the experience remains inconsistent.
3. Gears of War
I’ve experienced similar issues in Gears of War.
Some campaign areas feel extremely smooth, while others suffer from inconsistent motion.
Even in multiplayer, with seemingly stable frametimes, I can perceive subtle microstutters and uneven camera movement.
I’ve tried different frame caps, including 120 and 165 FPS, using tools such as RivaTuner Statistics Server.
Additionally, in Horde mode, I’ve occasionally noticed delayed hit registration, delayed audio feedback, and enemies reacting late to shots, almost as if there were some kind of desynchronization.
4. Troubleshooting I’ve Already Done
Before suggesting the usual basic optimizations, please understand that I’ve already spent countless hours testing different configurations.
Here’s what I’ve tried:
Multiple clean installations of Windows 10 and Windows 11.
BIOS updates and CMOS resets.
Installing official motherboard chipset and device drivers.
Testing multiple NVIDIA driver versions.
RAM stability testing with TM5 and MemTest, without errors.
Adjusting PBO, Curve Optimizer, and PPT/TDC/EDC limits.
Testing different SOC and DRAM voltages.
Monitoring CPU/GPU temperatures, frequencies, and utilization.
Running LatencyMon to investigate potential driver latency issues.
Performing clean Windows boots.
Investigating startup entries, services, and drivers using Microsoft Autoruns.
Testing different FPS limiters.
Adjusting and testing Ethernet adapter settings.
CPU and GPU temperatures are consistently good, with no obvious signs of thermal throttling.
One interesting observation is that disabling certain startup entries and components using Autoruns noticeably improved perceived smoothness in some games.
This makes me wonder whether some kind of software interference, driver conflict, or Windows-level issue could be involved.
5. My Main Technical Questions
I’m particularly interested in understanding the following:
Can frametimes appear stable while actual on-screen motion remains uneven due to frame presentation or display timing issues?
Can Windows services, drivers, or background components interfere with perceived smoothness without triggering obvious warnings in LatencyMon?
Could my 240Hz IPS monitor contribute to the perceived lack of motion clarity, even when frame delivery appears consistent?
Could my Samsung 980 NVMe SSD, which lacks dedicated DRAM, affect asset streaming or introduce occasional interruptions during gameplay?
Are there more advanced diagnostic tools than MSI Afterburner and LatencyMon for investigating actual frame presentation, displayed frame timing, and motion consistency?
Has anyone experienced similar issues with AMD X3D processors combined with recent NVIDIA GPUs?
6. What I’m Actually Trying to Achieve
I’m not simply chasing higher FPS numbers.
My goal is consistent, clear, responsive camera movement without perceptible microstuttering or uneven motion, ideally without relying on adaptive synchronization technologies.
I believe my hardware should be capable of delivering an excellent gaming experience.
I’d really appreciate input from people with advanced knowledge of:
Frame pacing and frame presentation.
Windows graphics scheduling and driver behavior.
Display response times and motion clarity.
AMD Ryzen X3D architecture.
NVIDIA driver optimization.
PC gaming performance diagnostics.
I’m willing to perform detailed technical tests, but I’d prefer suggestions that help identify a measurable root cause rather than generic registry tweaks or commonly repeated Windows optimization guides.
Has anyone experienced something similar and actually managed to identify or fix the underlying problem?
Any serious technical insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!

Exactly the post Apple wont turn off the proximity sensors when on a Video call on google meets, Discord, Messenger, or anything except FaceTime and speaker calls.

It’s super annoying as I’m literally on a video call as my whole screen is being blacked out just from using my phone.

I have cleared the cache, I have cleared the data, I have Uninstalled and reinstalled.

I am on a Galaxy S21

The problem started months ago, fixed itself, and now it's back.

I have spent like 2 hours configuring settings, resetting updates, and I cannot figure it out.

Hey there, recently whichever website or app I visit and sign up in with my phone number, automatically takes an email id in the syntax myname@gmail.com and links it to the account with no chances to edit it later. I have no idea how to solve this.

Note: A few days ago while trying to clear up space from my device I came across Google Play Services taking up 2.3 gb. I was trying to inspect the matter, and thought I'd exit the window and look into it later on. However completely by mistake I clicked on confirm and cleared all data from Google Play Services. I restarted the phone, logged into most of my necessary google accounts. I mentioned this in case it is relevant.

I have an Acer ALG laptop that had a liquid spill on October 9. liquid leaked into the laptop through the bottom vents while it was inside my bag. Initially, the laptop wouldn't turn on at all. I took it to a service centre, where they cleaned the affected area and told me there had been a short circuit. They repaired a transistor/power-circuit component, and I paid. After the repair, the laptop worked normally for around three weeks. However, today it started making an alarm-like sound. Both fans are running, but one spins slowly while the other spins very fast, and the laptop heats up quickly, with a lot of hot air coming out of the vents. I'm worried that the liquid damage has caused another hardware issue or that the previous repair wasn't fully successful. Has anyone experienced something similar? What could be causing this, and would it be an expensive repair?