r/Leather • • Jul 29 '25

Let' get a little more accurate when it comes to leather grades

14 Upvotes

Genuine is a broad term that encompasses all levels of quality, just like saying plastic or steel or wood...broad categories that can vary a lot. The idea that it's some specifically bad leather comes from the mostly correct assumption that when they don't give more info then you can assume low quality. Like if you see a sticker that or advertisement that says "real beef"...it's probably a good bet they're not giving you a cut of prime beef, but that change the fact that a prime cut of A5 wagyu is also still "real beef"...

It's a broad term not a specific one...and the other terms bandied about are also much broader than people assume and can also be pretty low quantity.

People and articles repeat that leather comes in these specific grades: genuine, top grain and full grain.

But it’s simply not true terms are inclusive...all leather is genuine, everything that's not suede is top grain and full grain is unsanded top grain.

It annoys me immensely that all the articles call these terms "grades" because most people think of grading as taking objective measures that would be the same regardless of the source: The purity of metals, amount of marbling in beef, octane in gas, etc...but leather quality and price is going to vary by tannery more than these factors and there are thousands of tanneries all over the world. Those terms talk about what is or isn't done to a leather's surface mechanically (splitting and sanding), nothing more. They don't even tell you the animal, which can have a much bigger impact on quality!

If you're saying "genuine" specifically means a bad low quality leather then I'm sure you've seen the other side of that coin: "full grain is the absolute best/the highest grade"

Both of those things are 100% false. Cheap crappy full grain exists...and there are products stamped "genuine leather" made with high quality full grain.

Exhibit A: SB Foot Tannery is the largest by volume tannery in the USA they are full owned by Red Wing Boots and they use "Genuine leather" to refer generally to all their leather, even those that are explicitly full grain like Featherstone: https://imgur.com/a/Tdtbjge

Exhibit B: Horween tannery in Chicago is probably the most "famous" tannery in the world...just search "Horween" on or . This is Horween's explanation: https://www.thetanneryrow.com/leather101/understanding-leather-grains

Leather quality is much more nuanced than terms like genuine, top grain and full grain can tell you... there are hundreds of other factors that go into tanning "good leather"...it's a bit like judging something that has many components, like a computer, by one factor and nothing else. What would would happen if you just maxed out one component on your PC and left the rest at the lowest level? Ram, hard drive space, the CPU, the GPU, monitor, type of hard drive and dozens of other things come together to make a good machine...the same is true with good leather. Remember when people bought cameras based on megapixels? Any photographer will tell you that's not an accurate way to judge.

You can view the Full Grain>Top Grain>Genuine hierarchy as a "quick and dirty" way to pick quality if you're in a hurry and not spending a lot of cash on a leather item.

However, those terms do have actual meanings that don't always equate to good quality:

Full Grain is a leather that has only had the hair removed and hasn't been sanded (corrected).

Top Grain is a broader term that actually includes full grain: It's everything that's not suede, a split, this means that full grain is a type of top grain. However, when you see "top grain" in a product description chances are it's a leather that's been corrected (sanded). Nubuck is an example of a sanded leather (often used on the interior of watch straps and construction boots because it's more resilient to scratches), but so is a much beloved leather: Horween's Chromexcel (it's lightly corrected). The amount of correction can vary widely but once the sander hits it, it's no longer full grain.

Genuine Leather is, admittedly, a term found on lots of low quality leather. That's because the bar for "genuine" is extremely low: It just means real. To a tannery it's all genuine. When you read the description for "genuine" that many online articles give, they're actually describing a leather called a "finished split", which is a usually cheap quality suede that's been painted or coated to look like smooth leather. Despite what is often said, bonded leather is legally required to be clearly labeled as such, in theory, you shouldn't see it labeled "genuine leather."

Put simply:

Genuine=Not fake

Top Grain=Not suede

Full Grain=Not sanded

Anything beyond that is an assumption.

The gold standard for getting good leather is tannery and tannage...everything else is easily exploited by meeting the minimum definition of each.


r/Leather • • 11h ago

Help with 40+ years old leather jacket

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22 Upvotes

This leather jacket is mythic in my family, it has been on my dad’s back for every bike trip he has taken for the last 40/50 years. Years ago after a bad accident he gave it to me to take care of it. However, months after I left to another country and the jacket was left in a closet for 7 years untouched. I finally got it back, and I want to wear it if that it fits me.
This jacket has a lot of sentimental values but I’m afraid without any sort of treatment or care it won’t last long. It’s has been in a few crashes, and has a some imperfections but it looks in good shape overall.
So I’m turning to Reddit to know if there are any care tips you could give me so it can last another 40 years! :)


r/Leather • • 1h ago

Paints for Leather Jacket

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• Upvotes

r/Leather • • 3h ago

Help

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1 Upvotes

I need help finding some hides that match this coat. I have been looking for hours.


r/Leather • • 12h ago

Ist das Schimmel? Oder Gerbsalze?

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3 Upvotes

Hallo :) vielleicht weiß ja jemand mehr.
Ich bin etwas ratlos. Dieses Fell lag einige Jahre im Semi-feuchten Keller, in dem ich an manchen Dingen leichten Schimmel gefunden habe.

Das Fell hatte ganz leichte helle Flecken. Daraufhin habe ich es für einige Wochen auf den Balkon gelegt, um eventuelle Sporen durch Sonne und frische Luft zu reduzieren.

Jetzt sind die Flecken mehr geworden und der Rest des Leders noch viel dunkler.

Sind das Gerbsalze? oder doch Schimmel?


r/Leather • • 7h ago

Help needed!

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1 Upvotes

I purchased this bag to restore it. This appears to water damage. I cleaned and condition the bag, but the spot is still there. How should I approach this?


r/Leather • • 8h ago

Genuine Leather?

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1 Upvotes

Found this suit bag for £2.50 in the charity shop, needs a bit of cleaning. Not sure what brand it is as no markings but it did have an unattached tag saying made in Korea. Should I clean it with saddle soap and apply beeswax? Thanks


r/Leather • • 9h ago

Vintage Gucci Bamboo Hobo Failing Sealer

1 Upvotes

I got a bargain on a Gucci bamboo leather hobo which I thought was just needing a conditioner. Unfortunately it’s powdery and since the leather is dry but still in good condition, I think it needs a reseal. I considered getting some resolene and attempting to do it myself. It’s around £100+ to get it professionally done so I guess I’m asking people’s experience. Is it worth storing it until I have the £100 or so, or is a DIY job a reasonable option?

Edit: it has a brushed jersey fabric interior so the interior is absolutely fine.


r/Leather • • 9h ago

Oiled vs waxed horsehide for jacket

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1 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 15h ago

Leather coasters

2 Upvotes

Hello all,

I imagine this subreddit is home to people who know far more about the leather market than I do. I wanted to ask if there’s a market for genuine leather coasters that are approx 10mm thick. Most you see online are 3-6mm and if I’m able to produce this what price do you think I could realistically demand for say a set of 2

Thanks


r/Leather • • 11h ago

Help with mold stains in leather.

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1 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 11h ago

Best leather care

1 Upvotes

Hello!

I've just purchased a second hand leather jacket with fur lining. It's lamb I'm pretty sure. What's the best product to upkeep the leather and make sure it doesn't get damaged if wet(rain)?

Thanks!


r/Leather • • 15h ago

Help regarding these air pocket things on my new bag

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1 Upvotes

Saw this on my new bag recently. could this be water damage of some sort ? does anyone know of a fix for this ?


r/Leather • • 1d ago

Wallet

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2 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 1d ago

Advice please

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1 Upvotes

Anyone know what these whitish marks are on this leather bag? Is it mold?


r/Leather • • 1d ago

[For Sale] My Latest Handmade Leather Wallet & Card Holder Set

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0 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 1d ago

Forget it or save it?

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3 Upvotes

Hey leather experts and lovers!
I thrifted beautiful Riani green lamb nappa leather pants for 5 euros. Leather felt like butter so could not leave it behind.
However the deal was not so great as there is oily looking stain on the hip area. I tried to search how to clean it, if to clean it. My research does not look promising. I haven’t tried anything yet, too scared.
Any cleaning tips? If no, any ideas where to reuse the leather?
Thank you in advance!


r/Leather • • 1d ago

As an Indian teen guy, I think I have leather dress shoes fetish :-| & any other Indian guy with similar interests ?

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0 Upvotes

Being an Indian Teenager, I find leather dress shoes (especially someone else's shoes) very exciting and intimidating. I love wearing different people's worn out leather dress shoes & live being intimate with them.

The attached leather oxfords of my male senior were so good on my feet & I loved being intimate with them.

I also try to find various reason for my attraction of buying leather dress shoes, pointed & heeled leather boots/shoes or even snip toe tall cowboy boots :)

I even begged my senior & friends to give me theirs/ their dad's dress shoes only to arleast WEAR them. I find walking in leather shoes actually very exciting & loving. It makes me hard. Especially seeing other's wear different kinds of laceup leather shoes. I love my precum coated all over my own first ever pair of brown leather derbies :) & I once even peed fully in this pair's right shoe 👞😍

What do I do ?


r/Leather • • 1d ago

Leather Belt Care and Discoloration

1 Upvotes

Hi! I bought a belt from the Belt Shoppe in CO a few weeks back. Overall I'm happy with it, but the finish is already splitting around the end where you buckle it.

I tried brown polish and Bick conditioner, but the cracking/splitting of the finish is still there. Should I try to get a refund, or is this normal?

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r/Leather • • 1d ago

Leather Thrashers Jacket

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1 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 1d ago

Real or faux?

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1 Upvotes

I own these and I think first is faux and second is real, but I'd like to know for sure


r/Leather • • 1d ago

Where can I buy leather chaps like this? Exactly like these.

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0 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 2d ago

Leather Jacket Cleaning Help

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1 Upvotes

Hi, everyone! I bought this leather jacket secondhand to wear as a Halloween costume to see Harry Styles. The jacket smells strongly of cigarette smoke, and I’m not sure how to get the smell out. I brought it to a professional cleaner who works with leather, and he told me he didn’t think it was worth paying the amount they asked to have it cleaned since it’s just for a concert (and I didn’t want to pay that much). He also said there’s always a risk of the color running. Does anyone have any tips for making it smell better or cleaning it at all?


r/Leather • • 2d ago

Advice needed for leather bag purchase

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2 Upvotes

r/Leather • • 2d ago

Help identifying leather type, care instructions

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2 Upvotes

Hi everyone, I purchased this bag in Europe at a flea market where it was advertised as real leather. It definitely smells and feels like real leather but I need help identifying the type of leather and as well as tips on how to care for it so that it lasts a long time.

I can’t tell if the leather looks dehydrated and requires some type of conditioner at the moment as well. What type of leather conditioner would work well for it?

Any comments would be greatly appreciated!