I made a prototype for a kitchen organizer a while back because I wanted to solve a couple of minor issues I had with my previous bag I used for this.

• The stuff sack I used before was a bit annoying because I always had to rummage through the chaos to find anything. This is way more convenient.

• I pack most of the cooking kit even for day hikes to be able to make coffee on the trail even on shorter hikes, so I can just grab this and throw it in the daypack or the large hiking pack. No need to assemble the essentials and throw them in the stuff sack.

• I always kept forgetting my pot cozy…

This bag fits my 550ml cup/pot including a gas cartridge, the equally sized titanium mug (I use it for coffee as well as for rehydrating meals, works great because it’s double walled), a Java drip coffee filter, stove, spork and tupperware for coffee and powdered milk.

Additionally, it’s padded with aluminium coated foam like pot cozies, but a bit thicker.

Materials are PU-coated 210D nylon ripstop and a generic nylon fabric for lining.

This was initially thought as a prototype, but I’ve been using it for a while now because it works well and it seems that I’m too lazy to make a proper one.

The kettle pouch and spice kit are also waxed, just rubbed a stearin candle on and heated them. I see the canvas becoming stiffer as a bonus.

Had a go at making a camera sling bag. Everything was going fine until I out the roll top on and realised it didn't work how I wanted.

Think I should of only done single layer for the roll top, seemed to thick to roll properly. Also somehow the webbing hadn't sandwiched between the layers properly so was half hanging out. Going to re make the top and will post the finished piece. But thought I'd share this. Quite please with how everything else turned out.

Pattern made by myself.

I’ve been practicing making the LearnMYOG Everyday Fanny Pack and feel pretty confident with the straightforward box shape/zippers. I’ve seen some bags like this Able Carry Core Sling where the zipper angles towards the front. I’m having a hard time visualizing the pattern pieces for this, anyone have some advice or a pattern that does something similar?

- If this kind of post is not allowed, mods are welcome to remove! -

Hello, I use this Sheffield storage bin/hard case for equipment and I wanted to make a pack attic for it (like the one in the Yeti Gobox, 2nd pic.)

My plan is to 1) sew a few nylon mesh pouches to a fabric panel 2) attach the fabric panel to a sheet of coroplast 3) glue the fabric+coroplast panel to the underside of the Sheffield hard case's lid. The additional storage would only be for light objects.

Does this seem like a good idea? Has anyone done anything like this before? I plan to work on this when I get off of work but I'd like some input from the community.

I wanted something versatile, and it's worked out well. Designed originally as a companion piece for a backpack I made earlier this year, it can function as a lid pocket or a chest pouch. Adding a few well-placed attachment points means it can also serve as a shoulder bag and as a handlebar bag for my bike.

The spacer mesh on the back works as a map pocket and the webbing that runs through on each side sits within that pocket and is adjustable using a triglide. This allows the lid pocket to "float" up if the backpack is fuller and taller.

It takes cues from things like the OMM Chest Pod. The triglide/D-ring fix on the lid pocket is an idea I lifted from a Prickly Gorse suggestion for removable waist straps. I used the Prickly Gorse rolltop handlebar bag as the origin of the pattern, adapting it to be a closed bag with a zip rather than roll-top. It needs a few bits and pieces (cord, bungee, straps) to make all the options work.

It's probably about 2-3 litres, which is all I need for accessible and delicate things like sunglasses that otherwise risk getting crushed in a roll-top backpack. Materials are leftovers from my backpack: EPX200 for the blue body, and venom gridstop eco for the sides and back, plus spacer mesh for the map pocket. Inside it's half lined with some 70D fabric to add a couple of phone-sized pockets, there's a key loop in there, and a stretch mesh pocket at the bottom half of each side that fits an earbuds case perfectly.

I’ve got a move new singer, but have aspirations for sewing a couple bags.

Fabric is Polartec Neoshell 66831 Soft Black from Discovery Fabrics. Zippers, zipper tape, sliders, glow in the dark zipper pulls, shock cord and cord locks also from Discovery.

Pattern is Greestyle Discovery Jacket pattern with added length, self drafted cuffs and additional storm flap on the zipper.

Packs up small and weighing in at 267.8g or 9.45oz

Hi :)
I want to make a waterproof Trousers. I want to use 3 Ply laminate and don’t need isolation.
It needs to be very durable because I need it for iceclimbing.
It would be my first project :) As an stencil I would use trousers that fit me very well.
So my Question is how do I use seamtape at very difficult spots like the zipper on front because there would be something like 3 layers of fabric. Can I just tape on the outside of the laminate. How do u waterproof something like that probably?
Or at the feet where I want to use condura as an Protection.
Can I just tape over the condura and than it’s water tight?

Hi everyone!

I made this edc waist bag as a birthday present to myself and wanted to share it.

Materials

Ripstop PVC 600D

Lining: polyester fabric

Hardware: WJ, except the Fastex buckle on the roll-top

Waist strap: car seatbelt webbing

3D front pocket with a waterproof zipper

Velcro panel on the front for patches (as you can see, I've already lost one 😅)

Extra MOLLE webbing, so I can attach a bottle holder and side compression straps that keep everything while I'm moving

3D spacer mesh on the back panel

30 × 18 × 9 cm (about 5 L), not counting the roll-top

The sewing itself took about 20 hours. Most of the time went into developing the pattern, especially the 3D front pocket.

With elastic drawstring. Not too happy about the fit but it works great.

I've been altering a molded external frame and mounted an ALICE bag on it now I want to add a shovit on it. I'm planning to attach it to the frame (sides & bottom). I have a good heavy piece of pack cloth but I need something to stiffen it. Any ideas?

I've been wanting to make a silpoly tarp. I have never worked with silpoly before though. Actually, I've never worked with any light-weight techy fabrics. I've only worked with heavy Cordura and such on my 1541.

I was scared to mess up a large tarp, so I decided to do a trial and I had a custom printed silpoly banner of my logo printed by RSBTR. So, I have my first printed thing, which turned out pretty well and seems more durable than I expected. I could definitely see myself using that service in the future

For various reasons I also bought a DDL-9000C FMS (lost my marbles my wife says). So, hemming the edges and doing corner tie outs on this banner was my first actual project on this machine. I'm loving this machine by the way. It's a joy to use. I never knew what I was missing not having the auto-cutter. (first world problem, I know).

Anyway, working with the silpoly is kind of a pain in a way. It doesn't fold very well and is very slippery. Basting tape won't really stick to it, at least not nearly as well as it will to your fingers and everything else. I finally skipped it and just did a double fold with clips to hold it, but it tends to want to slide around a bit while sewing.

Does anyone know the best way to get the creases out of silpoly? Iron, hair dryer, some other third thing?

Fabric is 40D silnylon, eyelet was installed with the corresponding pliers

Any ideas on how to solve this ? I've thought about putting some superglue before pressing the eyelet but it doesn't adhere to the fabric really well

Handstiched ikea project (3 bags) for winter touring. Mounts on external frame and fastens with rope. Only tested 20kgs.

The hook side seems to be all one single piece of plastic. It is not dual lock by 3M.

I am in the process of trying to market my range of dog collars. I do not have a great space for product photography or the budget to hire someone / space.

Is it acceptable to use ai in marketing shots?

Im just exploring this as a marketing idea.

I've been lurking on r/myog for 3 years now and have learned so much, so wanted to finally post this pack I've been making lately. It's a single fabric panel for the main bag, and has self-binding edges, which works with lighter pack fabrics that don't fray much (I used ECOPAK and X-Pac for these bags). I know there's trade-offs to that design choice, but it works for certain bags like these and makes binding so much easier, as binding is the part of bagmaking I dislike the most.

There's a printable PDF pattern and tutorial available at https://thirdplacethreads.com/u/Coomer/single-panel-self-binding-hip-pack, which is a site I built for people to share their projects. No registration or anything is required, but folks are welcome to join and share/document their sewing journey if they want.

It's the first pattern and longer tutorial I've made, so let me know what you think. I have a few more cool designs I want to share soon. Cheers!

I have a CORTECH Super 2.0 18L Tank Bag, it has magnetic flaps and sticks to metallic tank, it has a pocket where the shoulder straps get hidden/tucked away.

At the bottom (circled in red ) are 2 plastic D Rings that the shoulder straps hook into.

I want to add 2 more such D Rings to the top (circled in yellow).

This way I can use the bag as a tail bag using tie down strap that hook into the D Rings and then tie into the bikes grab rail etc. I can then also use the bag with Tank Vest on bikes that have plastic tanks.

I am lookign at suggestion on how to add those D Rings. The Tank bag cant be laid flats and has rigid sides , so machine sewing is out of the question. There will be a lot of lateral / pull dynamic stress on the D Rings.

Options I have considered (but not yet implemented):

1) D Rings with sticky base that are used on Kayaks etc and then maybe reinforced by hand stitching.

2) 2 D Rings on opposite end Nylon strap, strap hand sewed into the base of the bag. Base is soft.

3) Use Plastic Rivets to rivet the Nylon Strap to the base of the bag instead of sewing.

Looking for suggestions? Thanks in advance.