I know its TTY but come on, really. Can I not just tighten this mf down and call it a day? The crank is keyed so the pulley isnt going anywhere.

Does anyone know what I can put on this pocket thing? I keep trying to find things but it only seems that the only thought of modifications for this little slot are to add buttons for extra lighting, which I do not have. I'm wondering if I can slide in something cool like lighting for the interior or something.

I’m thinking about trading my 2021 Bronco Sport in on a 2024 Blazer LT. I drove a Trax, Equinox and MX5 and the Blazer was the winner hands down. Does anyone else have one? Do you like it?

I've got a 2002 Trailblazer 4wd with an intermittent driveline issue that sounds and feels exactly like you've veered off to the right and hit the rumble strip on the highway. The whole truck vibrates and can be felt in both the steering wheel and brake pedal. Seems to be coming from somewhere close to the front passenger wheel. It doesn't happen too often, once every month or so, usually somewhere between 35-65 mph. Most of the time it goes on for 10-15 seconds then stops before I get fully slowed down. It hasn't happened in a bit now, but when it does it seems to coincide with the 'Service 4WD' dash light coming on. Mileage is 265k with a newly rebuilt transmission with 10k miles on it. This all started well after the trans was rebuilt.

Any ideas what's causing it?

So no exactly repair help but kinda is. I wanna get some subs in my truck, it’s a 2020 Silverado crew cab. If possible I wanna get something that can fit under my backseat while leaving a little room for under seat storage, so nothing crazy big. Any suggestions?

I had been having issues with the car starting. I replaced the better and that fixed the starting problem. But now it shows ESC service, power steering reduced, parking break service, and the following in the dash. Has anyone experienced this?

Is this a good price? Any issues to look out for?
My plan is to use it for 2-3 years and sell it again without losing much.

Like title says. I'm looking at a Chevy Tahoe from 1997. 420,000km on it. Rebuilt engine and new Trans.

Any common issues I should be looking out for?

My wipers have had periods of not working since I got the car, just suddenly turn off and don’t turn on with the switch. Dealer never found anything wrong because they were working fine at the appointment.

Recently noticed that when it does this, it turns my headlights on and off (or at least the icon)

It’s a Chevy trailblazer 2021.

Anyone else experience this? How can I fix this?

The HVAC system on my 2001 Chevy Silverado works, but the directional control does not work. This is a picture of the mode door actuator (I think) and a picture of what I thought I needed as a replacement. I can’t seem to find another replacement part that looks like what is already installed. I am able to move the wheel manually and it changes modes and it twists the knob, but I can’t turn the knob to change directions. Help finding the part that I need here or a fix so that what I have here works would be greatly appreciated!

Hey everyone, hoping someone here has dealt with this before.

I have a 2018 Chevrolet Trailblazer LTZ 2.8L turbo-diesel, 4x4, automatic, and I’m trying to source the correct A/C compressor.

Important detail: this is the international/body-on-frame Trailblazer, not the newer North American crossover. Mine is the 2.8 diesel model related to the global Colorado/S10 platform.

I already tried ordering a compressor that was listed for a 2018 Chevrolet Colorado 2.8 diesel, but when it arrived it was way too large and clearly not the same compressor that came off my Trailblazer.

The OEM number I keep finding for the international Trailblazer is:

GM 52122496

I’ve also seen related numbers such as:
52122482 / 52122497 / 660869376

Has anyone here with the same generation Trailblazer 2.8 diesel successfully replaced the A/C compressor?

I’m specifically looking for:

• the exact compressor you used
• OEM or aftermarket part number
• brand
• where you bought it
• whether it bolted up and connected correctly without modification

If anyone has experience with the Thailand/Australia/South America market Trailblazer or Colorado 7, that would be especially helpful.

I’m in the Cayman Islands, so ordering the wrong compressor gets expensive very quickly once shipping is involved. I’m trying to confirm the correct part before ordering again.

Any help, photos, part numbers, or supplier recommendations would be appreciated.

This morning as I was driving my 2018 Chevy Imapala, about 85,000 miles on it. My car started to shake a bit then a noticed the stabilitrak light came on & the check engine light was flashing. Both went off a few seconds later. I had my car inspected & it passed with no mentions of any problems 2 weeks ago. I should also mention I have a leak, my car is leaking coolant every now and then. I had the water pump replaced in April when the issue first occurred but the guy said my car was still leaking and he would need to take the engine out to see where the leak was coming from. Which I didn’t go forward with yet. but haven’t had any problems or overheating since expect adding coolant whenever I see a little has gone out. What could be the problem?

Hey all, just want to get some advice so I know what to expect from a mechanic.

I've had my headlights burn out weirdly frequently since I got my car 2 years back (replaced 1 bulb at a time 5 times since I got it). I've needed to buy a new bulb this week to replace it but turned on my car to both bulbs out and my high beams not turning on either (light still comes up on the dash board).

Rear lights, internal lights, and amber lights on the front all work just fine, the light that activates when the door opens has been broken for at least a year but that's presumably unrelated.

Anyone have any clue what's going on? I assume it's an electrical issue but if there's anything more specific folks could advise so I know what kind of expense to expect that would be great

My regular mechanic (non dealership) is vastly cheaper, but this particular problem may be difficult for them to figure out. Wanted to get your thoughts. Yesterday while driving my car went into limp mode and threw the "Engine power reduced" warning, and shortly after first receiving this warning, at one point my accelerator pedal became completely useless. Car was at minimal RPM and I was unable to accelerate. I was close to home, fortunately. After parking for a few minutes I restarted the car. No warnings. I drove a a few miles around the neighborhood. No problem. I took it today to the auto repair shop to get a code check. No problem. Got it up to about 52 mph on the expressway, briefly. The code check came back with: P0016, P0089, and P228D. Apparently if a loose timing chain is the root culprit that cascades down to trick the computer into throwing fuel pressure code. A mechanic should be able to tell if the timing chain needs to be replaced by looking at it, and if it does, how will we know if the high pressure fuel pump needs replacing? If the chain is fine, then it's almost certain that the fuel pump needs to be replaced, but a bad chain could cause the computer to think the fuel pump is bad even if it's not. In other words, if the chain is bad, is there a way we can know for sure if the fuel pump is good or bad other than going by what the code says?

Also, does this sound like a job a regular mechanic can handle or am I better off spending the extra money and taking it to Chevy to be serviced?

Hey all. I have a 2024 Equinox, 40k miles on it that I've had for a few months now. Last night I was in stop and go traffic and it suddenly shut down on me. It wasn't the auto stop, it completely shut down with the message "Press Brake to Start". It did that three different times on me while I was in the stop and go traffic, every time taking longer for it start back up. The third time I was worried it wouldn't start at all with how long it took. But once I was out of the busy traffic it ran fine, didn't shut down any more on the way home.

There is no check engine light, nothing to suggest that the car is finding anything wrong but I'm worried. I don't know if it was just something odd happening or not. I drive long distances and would hate to end up stranded lol

I’ve got a late 90s model suburban with the 454 7.4L engine I noticed it was leaking by the rear main seal but once I took it off I noticed this broken section behind the crank shaft what is the fix to this? Do I have to pull the motor out? I’m I going to have to send the bottom end out to a machine shop?

Hey all.

TLDR: truck only stays in 1st gear, no reverse. When gas was applied in reverse, the truck continued to rev even with my foot off the gas and on the brake.

Just to preface, I’ll be taking the truck to the dealership on Monday. Also, I know very little about mechanics (I can hardly change my own oil). Please be gentle.

Backstory.

I own a 2021 Chevrolet Silverado trail boss 6.2L with 99,400 km on it. (Warranty is done @100k)

Last week on my way home from work, the truck started acting funny. It would rough shift every time the truck went from 2nd -> 1st or when it went from 1st -> 2nd. It didn’t appear to be affecting any other gears. I got home (about 5 minutes later) and pull up out front of my house. I turned the truck off/on and put it in drive. Now usually, when your foot is off the break, you slowly creep forward? The truck didn’t. I slowly started revving the truck, the rpm’s hit 1,200ish and the truck slams into gear (to the point I was jerked a bit in the seat). I take a video, turn the truck off and take it into the dealership the next day. The truck had 99,250k at this point. Dealership keeps the truck for a day, couldn’t find anything wrong, charge me $200. They tell me if I buy a transmission service for $700, they can take a closer look. I probably should have agreed, but I didn’t.

Tonight/last night

Went out to grab some food ~5 min drive each way. The truck started rough shifting again. Check engine light comes on, I get a notice on the dash saying reduced power. Cool. I’m basically at the food joint so I continue on my merry way. I notice the truck doesn’t shift from 1st to any other gear. Great. I go to do a 3 point turn in the restaurants parking lot so I could park on the street. I put it in reverse. Nothing. Rev it a bit. Nothing. Try to rev it again (probably about 1,500 rpm) nothing, this time though without me pushing the gas, the truck continues to rev on its own. It shoots up to about 3,000 rpm and I panic shut off the truck. Turn the truck back on, check engine light still on, put it in reverse, rev a tad, nothing. I end up just jumping out the drivers door and pulling the truck back just enough so I could get out on to the street. Grab my food, take the truck home. I’m not going to touch the truck until I can get it into the dealership on Monday.

Other info maybe relevant, maybe not. The 6.2L engine has a recall, the dealership looked at my engine and said it wasn’t affected. They changed my oil to 0-w40 and called it a day.

So I’m just wondering, would anyone have any idea of what I should expect when I take the truck into the dealership?

Is this what a “blown transmission” is?

Could I have done anything to prevent this from happening?

Thanks in advance.

What are common issues with this car and about how many miles until they fail? Buying one with 87k miles soon for $8200 so I’m wondering how they are

Hello everybody,

I have a 1993 Chevrolet Cavalier RS sedan that features the full Z24 interior appearance, motor, and handling packages. From what I understand, this fully optioned V6 sedan configuration is very rare, basically serving as a 1-year-only special package for the sedan body style to get all the Z24 performance goodies straight from the factory.

I was wondering if you guys could tell me what you like and don't like about these cars? What are your thoughts on the interior setup, the 3.1L LH0 V6 motor, or anything else?

I really want to keep this car stock but add some subtle, clean upgrades that don't ruin the period-correct look. If anyone has ideas on tasteful improvements or happens to have spare parts for a second-generation J-body V6 sedan, please let me know.

Everybody's opinion is greatly valued. Thank you all for the feedback!

Let me know if you want me to write a photo caption to go with this post if you decide to share a picture of your engine bay or interior!

2015 Malibu LT, 120k miles. Car's been great. Driving back home on the Expy, I got the engine power reduced warning, said it was limiting by speed to 35 mph, then shortly after said limit to 25 mph. Not long after the gas pedal did nothing. I coasted off the expressway, parked, turned engine off, sat there for 5 minutes, restarted car, and drove back home with no warning and no problems. The drive back home was 10 minutes at 35-40mph. I have two questions.

(1) Could this have been a fluky error that may not show up again?

(2) I'd like to have it evaluated. From my google search it seems others with this problems have gone back and forth to their mechanics to have this problem fixed because the mechanics don't always know exactly what's wrong given certain fault code errors---and it seems it's not their fault since Chevy cars don't always tell them the specific problem. I hate going to dealerships for repairs due to their crazy costs, but is this a time where it may make more sense to go to a Chevy dealership?