Hi everyone, hope this is the right thread to post this on. My dad sold his Jeep to a dealership in Florida on Monday, handed over the title, signed the paperwork, and they told him that the main office is who had to write the check, and so it would be mailed to him. Then by Thursday they called him saying he had to take his Jeep back because there was rust in the frame. He doesn’t see much of anything let alone something that could make the car unsafe, as they’re claiming. Not to mention they had it for 3 days before calling him — who knows if they could’ve damaged it somehow themselves?

My dad isn’t much for confrontation and gives in kind of easily, so after talking to them and to the general manager, they agreed to drop back off his Jeep at his house and cancel the sale, and they are going to mail him back his title. The entire thing sounds super sketchy to me, and I think he should’ve sued because he signed paperwork and they accepted the sale of the vehicle and then later retracted on it. Has anyone heard of anything like this happening?

Side note, as a concerned daughter, I can’t believe he even sold the car without receiving a check… If they weren’t going to give me the check right away, I would’ve held onto the title at the very least until I receive payment. And the fact that they mailed the title back to him makes me nervous as well because the mail isn’t always reliable. Whole thing is bizarre. He doesn’t even seem concerned much.

I should clarify that I am not a car salesman. But I have noticed that car buying social media content creators have been becoming very popular recently. And they are giving tips and showing how to get a great deal at a dealership.

Do you think these content creators have made the average person better at buying cars? Or have you salespeople not noticed a difference?

Long story short, 2024 CPO Audi, with 2 year left of its 4 year mfr warranty, and 1 year of CPO warranty. only 7000 miles on the odometer. Been in service for 5 months straight after having the car for about 10 days. i feel like it's 'unfixable' at this point. can I legally initiate lemon law for it?

I traded in a vehicle that had a loan on it and it's been 15 days and my Wells Fargo account still shows a balance and payment due in 5 days. So now I'm nervous there will be a late payment on a car I no longer have.

Does the dealership pay off the loan from their own pocket or do they have to wait for the loan on the new car to be funded first?

Which deal is better?

Went to see a pre owned vehicle on Friday with an appointment. I'll leave out full details, but it is a vehicle that has been on their lot 75+ days.

When we got to the dealer, which was a 90 minute drive one way, the vehicle was not ready for us. They went to get the car and the key fob was dead and needed gas. It was 30 minutes before we were able to test drive. Car is sitting on 6 year old tires with almost 35k miles.

When we get to negotiating, they present me with an otd 4000 over list on a $25k car. I get them to remove add ons and they are still $500 more than what they advertise online with their otd calculator.

I tell them I want the car at their internet price minus $800 to cover the cost of new tires. Manager wouldn't budge at all and lets me walk.

Dealer opens at 9am Saturday. They call, send and email, and text me at 8:58 AM and tell me they'll take my offer which was $1,300 less than what they offered otd friday. I tell them I can't make it back because the drive is too far and I don't have time until the next week. I also tell them I want another 300 off for wasting my time when I had an appointment and was ready to buy. They immediately accept, but I really can't make it back until Saturday.

I'm assuming someone messed up or maybe I was dealing with a new car sales manager or they just didn't want to be there on Friday, but they were blowing up my phone yesterday trying to get me to come back at a significant lower price than what they were giving me Friday. Does this happen often or was I just happened to have bad luck on the manager that was closing?

Looking at a car with a lemon-branded title, but I found some interesting.

The car was leased new on 09/15/2022 in Washington State

The car was issued a lemon title on 12/11/2024 In New Jersey???

The Car was then sent to auction on 04/24/2026 in Washington State

How can a car be issued a Lemon Title from a different state that it was never in?

I’m 24 in South Florida with 4 years of business ownership, and experience in sales, negotiating contracts, and working with third-party financing companies (Hearth/Foundation Finance).

I’m deciding between starting as a CarMax Sales Consultant or applying directly for an AutoNation F&I Manager position. I have no dealership experience, but the AutoNation posting doesn’t require prior F&I experience (maybe they are desperate). I’m very confident in my sales skills and I know anything will beat the 70 hours of roofing I’ve been doing per week.

Is going straight into F&I at AutoNation or CarMax Sales the Better Play?

Just as the title says. Recently found out that they want to onboard EliteBDC to mine our orphaned clients, longer term follow up, etc. In my experience, off site BDC is just to hammer the phones and often times, can easily cause more of a headache than they're worth. Does anyone have any experience working with them and did you find success?

After way too many spreadsheets and random test drives, we've finally figured out what we want. Problem is, it's the end of the model year and there's not that many left on lots . With our exact config and no geographic restrictions there's 8 (according to visor.vin) and if we compromise on interior color, that jumps to 13.

We've mostly been talking to our local dealer and they've been very helpful. They're supposedly seeing if they can arrange a dealer trade for one and I'm not super patient.

Options are:

See what dealer can do/offer on one about 600 miles away.

Visit the closest dealer that actually has one on the lot (not the one my dealer is trying to get because we decided we could compromise on interior color after our last visit) and negotiate directly with them.

Ask my dealer to trade for the closer one. I'm assuming I'd have heard if they managed to get the one we really wanted since it's been a full business day.

Buy the cheapest listed one, which has been on the lot long enough to be a service loaner and is priced about 15% under MSRP. We would have to ship it but it's still less expensive with shipping added. We'd have to buy it without seeing it.

Order a 2027 version for 5% under invoice and have that shipped. That requires waiting which I'm bad at. We're also finally getting off our butts to buy a new car since the one we're replacing is at the steadily increasing problem stage of ownership (11 year old jeep) and the heated seats don't work going into a new england winter.

I'm fine with negotiating whatever, I'm fine with getting up and walking out but I suck at waiting patiently when there's multiple potential paths. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated, even if it's "sit tight no one would have gotten back to you this quickly. "

We're in Central MA and we're financing, but probably only about 50 -60% of the purchase price. Trading in our car would be easiest but I would sell to carvana or whatever if we can't arrange anything local. We can make the purchase without selling the other car but obviously would prefer to.

Hold the judgment.,

In northern Michigan, looking to finance a used car.

My credit is 504. I had a 725 score in 2023, I lost everything and had to default on my credit cards and loans. I’m currently rebuilding.

I am living in a rural town and walk 4 miles just to get to the nearest bus stop and have to take 2 buses just to get to my job. I saved up $2,800 for a cash car and engine blew 3 months later.

I need a reliable car.

I been online looking at vehicles and I found a 2023 Jeep Compass for $21k at a dealer ship that says they work with bad credit. I haven’t called them yet.

But I was wondering if I put down $4500 with bad credit would this help?

My plan:

I know my interest rate will be high, I get it! But i prefer a newer car, and continue to build my credit and refinance once my credit improve.

Trying to do my due diligence on this thing before I buy it.

SH-AWD A-Spec w/Tech 47K miles. Has good service history except I don't see any record of the initial diff fluid change at ~15k. I called the dealership that received the car at the end of the lease and it had 15k on it at the time. They did their standard maint, but did not specifically call out the diff change. They then sold it as CPO. Should i assume it was done and covered under standard maintenance?

My question is, is it possible the MDX has been running the entire 47k without the service light coming on? Would this concern you?

I recently went into a Nissan dealership looking to buy a new car. All was going well except that they only had two cars left in the colour and trim I wanted, one was new and the other a demo. The salesman said they would get the new one for me from their sister store, they just had to call them, and I signed a bill of sale. Today I got a call that the new one had been sold - unsure if it was sold after I had bought it or before and there was a lack of communication between dealers, leaving me with the option of the demo car in the colour I wanted or getting a colour I don't like.

The demo only has 226km on it but I also paid for an extended warranty, as I thought I'd be buying a new car, and am not sure of when the in service date is. They offered me free winter mats and a free winter trunk liner as I had not intended on buying the demo.

What are your opinions? Would you be upset with this? And what would you do - buy the car or find something else?

I am located in Ontario Canada and am financing the car.

EDIT: To rephrase, I am not bothered by this. Just curious if what they offered is a good deal or not and wanted to get the opinion of others. I have never bought a demo before and am not sure how it usually goes

TIA

Currently considering buying a Tacoma. It’s a 2015 TRD off road with the manual transmission, with 100k miles. And all I’ve ever heard is 2015 is THE YEAR for these trucks. Always wanted a Tacoma, and I’m a self admitted Toyota fan boy even tho I’ve never owned one. Dealer has it listed at 23.9k and I planned on financing it. I looked at the KBB and
it’s right in the middle of the book price. It’s a southern vehicle, not a spot of rust in the thing and it’s clean in the car fax. Honestly any thoughts would be appreciated. Cause my first reaction is fuck yeah, but I got burned by a truck earlier this year and I might just be gun shy lol.

Hey guys,

Little bit of context:
-This is for my younger brother
-He has a criminal record (3rd degree felony)
-Record won't affect him getting the job as I used to be a manager and recommended him

My younger brother needs a job and I spoke with a few of the manager at a dealership I used to work at, and they basically said they'd hire him despite the record.

Base Salary is $40k and hitting monthly benchmarks (I reviewed and they are very achievable) can push him to $60k. Their top BDC rep averages $87k and was transitioned into full WFH by request.

I had a few questions:

1. Is it possible to make this a sustainable career? He doesn't want to have to job hop and restart repeatedly.

2. He used to work at a call center for a while and made about 150 calls a day. Do you think that would transition well into BDC?

3. How is the salary relative to other BDCs?

4. What are the opportunities for advancement (if any)? I worked in sales/management when I was there so I have very little insight into the BDC side besides me asking them to do certain promotions.

Thank you in advance!

Yes, Jaguar. I currently own an F-Type, which I love, but I'm looking to go with an F-Pace for more space and versatility.

I originally planned to buy pre-owned, but my specific preferences on options (including a few I specifically don't want) narrowed the field to a single vehicle across all new and used inventory, and it happens to be a brand new 2026. It retails for about $71k, and the dealer has already applied a $5,500 "retailer incentive," which I suspect is factory money they're presenting as their own discount.

Given everything going on with the brand, the steep depreciation, and the fact that this is an outgoing model, I'm wondering how much leverage I might have to push the price below the existing incentive. Lightly used examples of the same model year, essentially demo units with very few miles, are selling in the low-to-mid $50s. I'd prefer to be in that price range, but unfortunately none of them check all my boxes.

The vehicle has been on the lot for close to 100 days, possibly longer by now. It's at one of the largest Jaguar dealerships in the country though so I'm not too concerned about issues from sitting, since I believe they take steps to prevent them.

I should also add that while the dealer knows I’m interested in the car, they do not know that it’s the only one left in the nation with my preferred options.

In any event, just curious if anyone might have any tips or strategies for negotiating this one down further? I’d greatly appreciate any thoughts you have : ) Thanks so much.

Edit: One thing I forgot to mention is that I plan on doing ALL negotiation via email so that I’m not caught blindsided by whatever tactics they might try if I physically go to negotiate. I’m only interested in going there (almost two hours away) if we have a deal, and I’m still thinking about potentially getting it delivered if I can. I just don’t know if it’s recommended to physically inspect the car beforehand, but I suspect I can still do that upon delivery before signing off on anything.

Edit 2: If I’ve learned anything from this post , it’s that there’s a good reason the general public is not fond of car salesman. The vast majority of you are just unhelpful, condescending douchebags. To those who were actually cool: I greatly appreciate your input and wish you all the best. The rest of you need to take some courses on etiquette.

And if any of you think I’m being a jerk, don’t come at me with your shitty little jabs. I match tone. If somebody comes at me with a shitty tone, as many in here have, then you’re gonna get it right back. Not sure if it’s a Reddit or a car salesman thing, but most of you people are rude as hell and then point the finger at me for responding in kind. No, sorry, maybe you all should be a little more friendly and less condescending to people seeking advice. The little jabs about pretending to know what my budget is and all of that. The Camry line was 100% appropriate. I was actually being nice! My advice to you and others is: don’t be a condescending douche to others seeking help and maybe you won’t get responses like the ones you’ve been seeing.

Turning off replies since I don’t have the time nor desire to read a bunch of unhelpful replies from a bunch of low IQ people who should probably go find some cars to sell instead of being dick bags to people on the internet. Perhaps there’s some proof to the general public seeing you people as a bunch of slime balls.

Hello, I had a question regarding the language of this contract. Could you explain this to me like I’m 5?

I’m located in Southern California if that helps.

“You may prepay part or all of your unpaid part of the Amount Financed at any time. If you do so, you must pay the earned and unpaid part of the finance charge and all other amounts due up to the date of your payment. As of the date of your payment, if the minimum finance charge is greater than the earned Finance Charge, you may be charged the difference; the minimum finance charge is as follows: (1) $25 if the original Amount Financed does not exceed $1,000, (2) $50 if the original Amount Financed is greater than $1,000 but not more than $2,000, or (3) $75 if the original Amount Financed is more than $2,000.”

I am looking at a 2016 Subaru Outback Limited with 73k miles they are asking 18k for it but I want to try and get it for less but I don’t know how the negotiation process would work with it being a dealership. I am paying cash and I’m in Idaho. Any advice?
I did a test drive of it the other day and plan on doing another one tomorrow so I can have an independent mechanic look at it.

There is a car that I like, a CPO SUV, and unfortunately it is around 600 miles away. The local dealership advertises that they find vehicles for you, and that they are able to do dealer trades. How does that process work? If they are able to do a trade, an I still able to negotiate the price? Also, am I stuck if the vehicle isn't as described? I'd much rather have the dealership get the car here for me to look at and complete the deal in my home state than fly to this other state and complete an out of state purchase.

I have a 2011 Nissan versa hatchback that just hit 48,000 miles. It’s religious maintenanced and is gently driven but the paint on it is hit or miss, clear coat is coming off and I was hit and ran on the front and back bumper causing some of the paint to come off but other than that no damage.

I recently decided to put the OEM fog lights on it since I live in a pretty rainy area which also gets foggy sometimes and to add some extra brightness to my car since it has halogens. My dad wants to get a hybrid, give me his car and trade my car in when he gets the hybrid. I am curious if the dealer would raise the value at all seeing the OEM fog lights since they’re pretty rare on this car or should I return them and get my $80 back?

Hourly Rate:
$16.90 / hour or current minimum wage
Against:
Customer reVieWs:
Used Car Bonus:
Unit Bonus:
Individual Score at or above the PAR average score for the current month. $50 additional commission per New vehicle sold (2 completed surveys to qualify for the bonus)
4 Used Cars: $100 additional commission per New and Used car sold
Units 0-7 = $100 each
Units 8-9 = $200 each
Units 10+ = $250 each retro to car 1
In the event of a split deal the delivery Salesperson will be responsible for and receive the benefits of the Customer reVieWs survey.
Refer to the Employee Handbook for other Company Benefits.

Hi all, looking for a reality check on a lease quote before I sign. Ontario, Canada, all figures CAD, taxes included where noted.

Car: 2026 Lincoln Nautilus Premiere AWD, gas, Equipment Group 102A, Infinite Black Metallic, brand new (12 km). No trade-in, $0 down, 16,000 km/year allowance, Ford Credit.

The dealer quoted me two programs on the same car (they don't stack):

**Option A — Fall Event rate 1.49% (no factory cash):**

- List $69,772, dealer discount only $1,447.60, financed amount $68,324

- 36 mo: $464.93 bi-weekly (~$1,007/mo incl. HST), residual 56% ($38,618), due on delivery $680

- 48 mo: $408.27 bi-weekly (~$885/mo incl. HST), residual 49% ($33,790), due on delivery $632

**Option B — $8,000 factory allowance + 6.49%:**

- Financed amount $60,324 (after $8,000 + $1,447.60 discount)

- 36 mo: ~$984/mo incl. HST

- 48 mo: ~$914/mo incl. HST

So at 48 months the low rate wins, but at 36 months the $8,000 wins. My questions:

1. Is the discount weak? $1,447.60 on a ~$70k car seems thin — what dealer discount should I realistically push for on a new (non-demo) Nautilus in Canada?

2. Is 48 months at 1.49% the right pick here, or is there something I'm missing on the $8,000 structure?

3. Anything in the attached quote sheet look off — fees, residual, or otherwise?

The Fall Event rate expires Nov 2, so I need to decide soon. Quote sheet attached (dealer/personal details removed). Thanks!