I wanted a used RDX, hopefully with tech pkg, in the $15k range so I could pay cash (which was impossible with decent mileage). I was only able to find this 2018 Base model (with the single 5" screen) with 123k miles for $14,000+tax through a private seller who kept meticulous maintenance records, so I knew the car had been well taken care of, including the timing belt, etc being done at 80k and in great condition. I felt it may be more reliable than one through a dealer with no service history. I also knew I would miss having the newer tech so I researched online beforehand about an aftermarket infotainment/bigger screen/CarPlay. I did find what I believed were a few options (one being Smarty Trend?) and felt it would be worth buying the car and upgrading the screen since the ones with tech pkg were out of my budget. As you probably guessed, car audio shops are telling me that due to the separate climate control display underneath, it cannot be changed. I do know about hooking my phone to the dash but that's not what I wanted.

I've only had it a week and am wondering if I should sell it, bite the bullet and get a loan for one with some tech. I'm a 70yo woman and have no one who can help me on this kind of thing and worried that I have made a really bad decision.

Am I now stuck with this car? I would appreciate any advice or suggestions as to what I can or should do. Thank you.

THANKS EVERYONE for commenting! I know this is a great car and want to keep it, so will keep looking into bigger screen options. Until then I will get by using my phone. I guess I've just gotten spoiled in my old age. 😬

2023 with 32k miles, appreciate any advice and support! Very happy with this purchase already!

I own a 2015 Acura TLX V6 and recently took it to Spreen Acura to have the crankshaft recall performed. The repair required the engine to be removed.

After removing the engine, the dealership told me that the threads for one engine block bolt and one transmission bolt were stripped. According to the service representative, Garet Cunningham, the bolts were present but weren't secure because the threads were damaged. He says the damage was discovered after the engine was removed and that the threads could only be inspected after removing the engine/transmission.

They are recommending a Time-Sert thread repair to fix both locations for $917 in parts and labor. They also said they could reassemble the vehicle without those two bolts, but that would leave one securing bolt missing from both the engine and transmission.

I haven't had any engine or transmission work done during my ownership, and I'm not aware of any previous repairs that would have caused this. The dealership hasn't clearly explained how they determined the threads were already damaged before the recall work.

The service representative recently messaged me saying there may have been a miscommunication between him and the technician. He also clarified that my vehicle is not a salvage-title vehicle and encouraged me to come to the dealership to inspect the condition of the engine block while the engine is still out.

I'm planning to go in and ask them to show me the damaged threads and explain their findings before agreeing to pay anything. What should I do or ask when I go?

Pictures from dealership

https://imgur.com/a/T94EEVP

I had a private inspector check this car I want and this came up. Needs a wheel alignment but idk how much these errors are going to cost or what the issue even is. I was looking at another car that had the same issue and I don’t think that dealer could fix it. Is this common on the 2020 TLX?

Just curious on what everyone’s mileage on there 3rd gen RDX’s are.

I have a 2020 RDX with 160k kms (99.5k miles)

Wondering if there are any 200k + kms 3rd gens kicking around.

Thanks!

Hi all,

I have a 2019 ILX with 170k miles.

Went to do my oil last night (every 5k) and noticed a decent amount of leaked oil/dirt around the transmission housing. I narrowed it down to being the transmission pressure sensors more than likely. Checked for possible rear main seal or oil pan and can confirm it isn’t either.

I saw this post and it’s basically the same. I’m getting under the car today to check the transmission fluid level as I have noticed a bit of harder shifting occasionally.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Acura/s/VcWIXeudXV

I was wondering if anyone knew the part number for new sensors or socket size needed to tighten the sensors down (assuming I’m correct). Largest socket I have is a 24mm and I’m getting mixed results on searches.

Thanks in advance.

I purchased a used 2015 Acura MDX not too long ago. Was in great condition, one owner, a little over 120k miles. I haven’t driven it much since I’ve had it. In the past week, I feel as though I’m getting a pull back, hesitation kind of response when I come off the acceleration at low speeds. If I let the car coast down to around 20mph or ease onto the break, I feel a noticeable response. Again, it feels like a pull back of sorts.

Anyone ever experience this? I haven’t taken the car in for any tune up or service yet. Should this be a concern or am I just not yet used to this vehicle? My other car is a 4 cylinder sedan and I’ve never experienced this.

I have my eyes on a 2007 Acura MDX SH AWD, 120k Miles, interior and exterior looks good, and solid/decent maintenance for 6.5k. I want your opinions, is this worth it, I’m sure I can get it down to $5k or $5.5k. Let me know any opinions you guys have and if it’s a good deal for $5.5k. I saw that they had a new alternator, o2 sensor, regular oil changes , a recent alignment.

They don’t have receipts of a timing belt, tensioner, or water pump or transmission service but they’ve said it was fully serviced. I’m going to go check it out anyways but if there’s some pointers to look out for let me know as well. Let me know if you think I can bring it down to or lower than $5k because they don’t have it.

Not sure what else I should be looking or asking for thats major but any help will do.

Please let me know your thoughts.

Hello,

I recently installed the prl hvi in my integra. I noticed the induction noise is very pronounced and quite loud with windows down, there is a slight push when the turbo gets up to speed and a satisfying woosh when letting off. The installation however was a nightmare. It was delayed a week because the screws on the oem maf wouldn't turn and I had no other tools that could grip, so I had to buy another. The hose was a struggle to install and there's a slight gap on the bottom by the manifold that im leaving alone as no error codes were thrown. Overall though it's satisfying to lay into the gas and then let off and hear it.

These two vehicles were apparently previewed ti dealers. Any leads on how they look? I’m pretty excited for these two cars. As a Lexus owner, I feel like Lexus has gotten lazy (look at the TX) because they own the reliable luxury market. Time for some actual competition.

Sidebar, the Pilot based car should be called SLX.

I'm reverse engineering my 2021 RDX (software D.1.6.4) to get full-screen Android Auto. On the 2021 it's stuck in a narrower picture with black bars. The 2022–2025 RDX has it: Acura's bulletin B23066 says software F.1.4.1 "adds support for full screen CarPlay and Android Auto", but 2021 isn't covered and Acura won't update it.

I've already done a lot of groundwork on the 2021: I have ADB access, I've decompiled Honda's Android Auto receiver and found where the smaller video size is set, and I've cleared the side panel with a reversible display command. What I'm missing is Honda's newer receiver from a 2022+ unit to compare against. That would show me exactly how Acura changed it, and whether it can safely be done on a 2021.

What I need from a 2022+ owner who has ADB access to the head unit (all read-only, nothing on your car is changed):

1. adb shell pm path com.honda.androidauto.projection.sink, and tell me the path it prints.
2. adb pull the APK at that path, plus any other .apk in the same folder.
3. adb pull the lib folder next to it (it contains libautoreceiver_jni.so).
4. adb shell getprop ro.build.fingerprint
5. adb shell dumpsys package com.honda.androidauto.projection.sink (the version lines are what matter).
6. If you can, adb shell dumpsys window | grep -i -E "mOverscan|mStable|mRestricted" and a photo of Android Auto running full width.

How to get ADB on the head unit (this is how I did it on my 2021; the 2022+ menus may differ a little, so tell me if yours does):

1. Ignition ON (or engine running), parked.
2. Press and hold these three physical buttons under the touchpad at the same time: Back + Home + Track/Card. Hold about 3–5 seconds until a screen appears with Self-Diagnosis Mode and Detail Information & Setting (that's Dealer Diagnostics).
3. Select Detail Information & Setting. On that screen, press and hold the same three buttons (the Track/Card button is the one that matters) for about 5 seconds. A hidden Developer Diagnostics list opens.
4. Switch USB Mode Switch from Apple CarPlay to ADB. It's the first item in the list. This turns the head-unit USB port into an ADB port until you switch it back, so Android Auto and CarPlay won't work on that port in the meantime.
5. Optional, for the normal Developer Options page: in that same list, scroll to the end and set Enable Developer Option. Then go to the regular Settings → System → About, tap Build Number 10 times, and a Developer Options line appears. Inside it, USB debugging does the same thing as step 4.
6. Connect your computer with a USB cable to the head-unit port. On the first connection the car asks Allow USB debugging? and you accept on the car's screen.
7. When you're done, set USB Mode Switch back to Apple CarPlay.

Careful: the Developer Diagnostics list contains items that can damage the unit, including Compulsion Loading, Factory Flashing, Bootloader Update and firmware updates. Don't touch those. Only use USB Mode Switch (and Enable Developer Option).

Please don't send a VIN, serial numbers, phone info or anything personal. None of the above contains any, but glance over before sharing. Please don't flash, delete or change anything on your car.

I'll share what I learn here, and I won't pass your files on to anyone else. If you don't have ADB access, even your Acura software version and a photo of Android Auto full-screen help. If you know how to reach the hidden developer or diagnostic menu on a 2022+ unit, tell me how you got there.

Thanks! Happy to answer questions and post my findings on the 2021 side.

EDIT
Also, if anyone has more experience with this or utilizing preexisting exploits, especially through codex or claude code please let me know!

Went from an Accord to this. Loving this car. I got it for a really good deal so I couldn’t refuse. Tons of utility, was able to fit a whole washing machine in the trunk with space to spare in the second row.

Ride quality is so smooth, night and day from my accord. And the leather seats are really good! Loving my MDX!

2008 RDX. 149,000 miles. I've had valve cover replaced. Drip pan and seals done. Oil is still dripping..Any ideas what is happening?

Mechanic says timing chain after he supposedly updated drip pan and sealed🤔

I like the car and it's been great for 2.5 years but I'm open to getting a new car if the maintenance is to much.

Ty all for your helpful replies"❤️

My acura mdx 2012 won't start. I tried to replace my own oil pan but all I did was loosen the bolts on the pan since the muffler won't let me remove the oil pan directly and I didn't want to mess with moving the muffler. So I tightened the oil pan bolts and I tried to start it afterwards and all the lights are and it cranks but the car won't turn on. I switched rhe battery and the battery on the key fob but no luck. Any advice? I don't think its the anti theft system. Thank you in advance.

Hello r/Acura. Long-ish time lurker, first time poster. Got in a little accident a few hours ago and while the other damage can probably be repaired a little easier, I need to know where I can possibly find a replacement right side mirror for a ‘16 RLX without having to pay a million dollars.

Blew the whole thing off and the motor is probably fucked too, so I’ll need the entire assembly. Problem is I cannot for the life of me find a heated, dimming, auto-folding mirror in Bellanova white pearl anywhere. (I’ve heard Bellanova and Orchid are the same?)

I’ve scoured everywhere in my immediate area online and can’t find one, so am I going to have to just bite the bullet and buy one & potentially prepare to have it painted? This is the first time I’ve had to deal with replacing something on a ten year old car so I’m feeling a little lost and worried about how expensive this is going to be. Thank y’all.

Just got a quote for 510 per month for the 26 MDX tech. 27 months. 7500 miles. 3100 down ( almost 2K in taxes then first month dealer fees etc )

Add around another 20 per month for 10K miles

Apparently since I have an RDX there are some big discounts for leases to try the MDX. No trade ins

Seems like a great deal honestly. Low 500 for the MDX with tech? I don’t think that can be beat

Might do it.

About to be three months with my ILX, and I absolutely love it. First car I bought from a dealership. Was initially gonna buy a white A-Spec trim, but the deal ended up falling through. Hoping to pay this off within 2-3 years and buying a tlx or integra after.

Hey there, I’m going to look at a 2003 Acura RSX Type-S at an estate sale today. I don’t have much information yet other than it is visually stock, has a 6 speed manual and has 130k miles. The owner told me it starts but hasn’t been driven in a year since the owner’s partner passed away.

It’s listed for $5k, which seems like a good price compared to what I’m seeing online and at past auction results. But was going to check it out since I’m concerned about how it hasn’t run in a year.

Is that a good price or should I go in with another figure in mind?