Sehr geehrte Sales-Experten, ich brauche eure Expertise.

Ich will mein Auto verkaufen, welches noch in der Finanzierung steckt.

Es handelt sich um einen W176 Mercedes-Benz A 180 mit aktuell 150.000km.
Der Finanzierungspreis war, Insgesamt mit Zinsen, ca. 26000€. Hierbei sind noch ca. 12300€ offen, also Zinsen bereits getilgt und ein hoher Anteil der Kosten.
Da ich auf ein Firmenwagen umsteige, will ich dieses „loswerden“.

Welche Möglichkeiten habe ich um das Auto zu verkaufen, da ich bei Kleinanzeigen das Fahrzeug nicht verkauft bekomme, sprich: lange inseriert und keine Anfragen erhalten.
Ich verkaufe das Auto nur Verkaufen, nichtmal Gewinn muss dabei hängen bleiben. Ich habe auch bereits vieles erneuern lassen zb. Winterreifen und will fürs Fahrzeug eine Vollaufbereitung, TÜV und Service neu machen vor Verkauf

Ich bin über jeden Tipp dankbar.

Dealer in Wisconsin. This would probably fit better in insidecarsales (if that is still a thing) but I don't have access anymore since I created a new username a few years ago when I doxxed myself and had morons contacting my dealership. So remove if you want mods. I used to be one here and I know it's a pain in the ass.

Anyway. We just got in a 2027 TRX. We have never done market adjustments, just selling it at MSRP. Of course lots of inquiries.

First guy to put down a deposit and send us the paperwork we needed sent us this:

Driver's License from Las Vegas wants it titled to a business in Montana. Not that unusual so far as a lot of people use Montana to avoid some taxes.

Then he wants the paperwork sent to an office building in Chicago and the truck transported to Alabama.

So I knew instantly this was an exporter of course and told him there were too many red flags and cancelled the deal from going forward and refunded his deposit. No paperwork had been sent or signed yet. While he wasn't on the exporter list for the current company name he is using I am more than confident that is what is going on and I don't need Stellantis getting all over me for it.

He went off. In honestly a hilarious fashion. He claims to have called the CEO of Ram (doubtful) and called my local DOT rep. So I called the rep because I know him well and explained what went on and the rep started laughing and said this is getting to be more common.

And now he's threatening to sue for racial discrimination.

This is my first time owning a mini but not the first European car I’ve had.

I am taking home a loaner today to see how I feel with driving since I have an hour commute to work each day (50 miles to work/100 round trip). I haven’t negotiated the price much but will once they see my trade in. It’s estimated to be $3-6k trade in (my husband is a manager at another dealership and gave me a rough ballpark price).

They drafted a sheet and said it was $44,740 (fees/taxes included) before we negotiate.

If we negotiate and get a good price before finance, what should I negotiate for the warranty when I get in the back? I heard I can wait to buy an extended warranty later on years down the road but should I do that or get the extended due to the miles I put on my car (~20k a year).

Location: virginia and we plan to finance.

Looking to get a Tacoma for my job, gonna be off roading in winter and I’m set on a Tacoma. It’s a 2023 SR5 4WD in blue with 34000 miles. Price is $34,600, I got approved with 5700 down for 506 a month for 72 months. They’ve had it for almost 2 months now and have already dropped 5k off. It’s a CPO gold level, one owner. I would be paying off way earlier just looking to get into something before winter hits the Midwest. I currently drive an Accord. What are your guys thoughts? I’m currently working in Northern Iowa and gonna be moving to Minnesota for my job here soon.

In OH with a 717 Fico Auto 8 score and a 691 Fico Auto Score 2 with Experian. No collections, no public records, and no auto loans. I previously paid in full an auto loan and it looks like the tradeline fell off due to age.

I have a mortgage ($1700/month) on my home that I’ve lived in 10.5 years. My annual salary is $128k.

I’ve been at my current employer 2.5 years and have been in the same industry 25 yrs.

All credit cards are paid, never late.

I do have student loans that I’ve taken out for my kid, but they’re all in forbearance until 6 months after graduation. That’s a few years away.

I had some late payments on my mortgage when I lost my job due to COVID, but they’re are over 2+ years old and my score has rebounded. (Fico Score 8 is 712)

I would rather not put down a huge down payment. I don’t have a trade in. The car I’m trying to finance is a used 2026 BMW X6 with 9k miles. I don’t want the payments to exceed $1300.

Edit: No reason given, said I would get a letter explaining. My DTI is 27.7%. I plan to pay 3 cards off this week. Dropping my DTI to 22.1%. I can put down $10k if I had to, but wanted to see if it’s possible w/o putting that much down. I’ve been driving the same car for 14 yrs. It’s almost dead. My child is out of state in college and I finally want to do something for myself. I have emergency funds, a 401k, high yield savings.

Any insight?

buying in nj, 14k down trying to finance 15k max.
as a girl who lives on her own and am dealing with a total loss my time with my rental has expired so i’m now paying out out of pocket. the dealership knew all this and still decided to waste my entire day. they sent me a info packet via email stating price was 24.6k they did not show me a printed price breakdown until the 3 hour mark, despite my asking/reiterating every ~ 20 minutes that i need to see a price breakdown before im buying anything. i finally got in with the finance guy he’s congratulating me on my purchase i said i haven’t bought anything yet i’ve still seen no numbers he says that’s what we’re doing now. i literally couldn’t believe my eyes. let me break down the bs fees they added.
-4k reconditioning, 167 point inspection and certification fee…. (are we serious?) not optional i say if i have to pay this to get the car it should be listed in the online price
-1k “origination” fee to start the loan, the loan was through nissan…. at nissan, the financing bank was a nissan company…
-1k doc fee
-500 edge fee (he wrote theft deterrent, 20% insurance discount, 5k back if stolen)
-2k taxes
-11k interest on the loan AND
-14k down payment? i took my 14k and left.

this now has us at 33.5k so i still have no idea how we got to 49k which was printed on the paper. i have no pic of printed version they took it every time they left the room.
* they refused to give me a printed copy of the price breakdown, so he hand wrote it. the manager said it was an “internal document” and could only be taken if i made a purchase?? so you dont let people keep the price breakdown if they just test drove and are looking at multiple cars?

he told me car been there 2/3 months says on car guru 220 days??? lmao i see why.
emailed a couple dealerships asked for out the door price, if no out the door price in writing i’m not going in!

Trying to work at my local Subaru dealership and they’ve been giving me the run around (I think) for the past month almost.

Took the advice I see online and went in person dressed nice with my resume. Was told come back in two days for a quick interview. Met with the Sales manager and Floor Manager.

They told me they liked me and the Sales Manager gave me his number and said to call him in 3 days to meet with the GM

Call when he told me, no response. So I call the next day wait a couple days,then show up in person

He says the GM never came in and to meet with him next week as he’s going out of town and when he’s back I can meet with the GM.

Come on the day he specified. Met with another manager (they’d just hired not the GM) he says they love me and will give me a call in two days with a final decision and if not he’ll reach out personally.

It’s been two days since the day they said they’d call me. Is it weird to keep trying ? Should I show up in person tomorrow to see what’s going on ?

Been applying to dealership for 3 months and only two have even given me the time of day.

How do I get hired ? I have 3 years experience in cellular sales, I’m 23 open schedule, not sure why no one is letting me work for them ?

I started back in February at a Mazda dealership and got let go after three months cause they said I was “too green” and I was working 6 days a week. I was trying my best and I just got hired at a dealership a month ago. This is a used car dealership and I am learning way more here but I don’t know if this is for me, this month I have only sold one car so far. I like the aspect of sales but not sure if car sales is my thing or I’m not good at it
Idk. I’m doing everything the managers ask of me. If there would be something else like another sales industry I am open to that. I used to be in construction for years before sales I do not really wanna go back to that. I am just tired of people wasting my time and booking appointments and then canceling. I call people like I’m supposed to and then they get pissed cause I call them like
Idk what else I’m supposed to do. I got social media going and marketplace. This dealership is also kinda in a weird remote location as well so barely any foot traffic. We are told we have to bring our own traffic in to get sales. Anyone else in this situation or was in this situation what did you do?

Hello all,

I need some help regarding the dealership zoning in or near Miami. I'm looking to get a vehicle independent (VI) dealer license to sell used cars. However, I have found it almost impossible to find a place to rent or to buy that isn't absurdly expensive and that is properly zoned. From people that I know and dealerships that I see down here, a lot of them are in areas that are only allowed wholesale auto sales and not retail. I'm still not sure how they are getting away with this, but my best guess is that they are then given a vehicle independent dealer license from a state examiner that doesn't check or care about the zoning. Can anyone confirm that this is what happens, or suggest a better way to go about this, or let me know what I'm missing in general? Any information would help, as well as where to look or who to talk to, or if this is even the right forum to be posting this in. For reference, my dealer will mostly be a storage facility, and I will flip cars time to time, but nothing outside mostly online sales. Thank you very much.

Wondering what the repercussions could be or what my options are.

Drove away with a new pickup truck 2 months ago. Lease paperwork approved and signed and in hand. To date, GM Financial hasn’t received any documentation regarding the lease so I can create an account. I’ve called and checked multiple times, called the dealership who said they “will resubmit it”, now left messages they won’t return. So far 2 months have passed and nobody is asking for payment and nobody will give me an answer on who’s even looking for a payment. Just got the registration in the mail in my name. Loan isn’t even on my credit report.

I found a great deal from a dealership out of state. Traveled a few hours. So driving there and seeing them in person isn’t really an option.

I just don’t want the repo man to come looking for it since I’m actively trying to make a payment.

What could happen if this paperwork never gets submitted? I’ve leased and owned plenty of vehicles over my many years of driving. Never had this happen.

Bought a new SUV 3 weeks ago in NJ via a spot delivery. Paying cash via a USAA cashier's check. Signed a standard backup finance contract at delivery. The USAA check was delayed but has officially arrived at my house. However, I am currently locked down out of town for a Work/military obligation with the vehicle and won't be able to physically deliver the check to the dealership until next Monday morning. I called today and left a voicemail for the Finance Manager updating them on the situation. They haven't called or texted me back all day. For those in dealership finance, is an extension to Monday for military duty standard practice here, or should I expect them to push back?

Found a 2022 BMW X5 xDrive40i at a non BMW dealership. It has around 18k miles, absurdly low for a 2022. Premium and comfort packages withheated seats and sunroof.

Asking price is $39k before taxes and fees. I’m guessing after taxes ~44k.

State: MO
Financing available at 6.7%

The car has been sitting on the lot for ~60 days.

Questions:

1. Is the price reasonable, or is there significant room to negotiate?
   
2. KBB fair purchase price seems to be around $35-36k for this trim/year. Is low mileage a valid reason to price above KBB?
   
3. Any red flags buying a BMW from a non-BMW dealer? No CPO available obviously.
   
4. What would YOU offer on this car?
   
5. Factory warranty should have ~1.5 years remaining - does that add meaningful value?

First time luxury car buyer trying to make sure I'm not getting taken advantage of. Thanks in advance!

i know many people doing car export in Canada, so what are your opinions about those people? Not about those scammer with fake cheque or runaway morgage, but thouse buying with cash and ship the car away.

i am in the market for a different vehicle and have found a decent looking 2021 rav4 on drivetime and was wondering if there are certain things i should be on the lookout for when i go to test drive it Thursday? i will be financing it and have the appointment to test drive it already scheduled

Hi everyone, hope this is the right thread to post this on. My dad sold his Jeep to a dealership in Florida on Monday, handed over the title, signed the paperwork, and they told him that the main office is who had to write the check, and so it would be mailed to him. Then by Thursday they called him saying he had to take his Jeep back because there was rust in the frame. He doesn’t see much of anything let alone something that could make the car unsafe, as they’re claiming. Not to mention they had it for 3 days before calling him — who knows if they could’ve damaged it somehow themselves?

My dad isn’t much for confrontation and gives in kind of easily, so after talking to them and to the general manager, they agreed to drop back off his Jeep at his house and cancel the sale, and they are going to mail him back his title. The entire thing sounds super sketchy to me, and I think he should’ve sued because he signed paperwork and they accepted the sale of the vehicle and then later retracted on it. Has anyone heard of anything like this happening?

Side note, as a concerned daughter, I can’t believe he even sold the car without receiving a check… If they weren’t going to give me the check right away, I would’ve held onto the title at the very least until I receive payment. And the fact that they mailed the title back to him makes me nervous as well because the mail isn’t always reliable. Whole thing is bizarre. He doesn’t even seem concerned much.

Helping a dealer setup their policy account as it is currently being billed all over the place. They use DealerTrack and I am not too familiar with it.

Their current process is to change the labor type to Internal, then use an opcode designed to display who approved the policy repair (IPBOB, IPSARAH, IPFRANK), bill the parts and labor on that line, then close.

They have 4 stores, all on DealerTrack. Is there a better way to set this up or is this the only way?

It's a 2020 Subaru. How do I go about asking them to reduce the price? I'm in New England and I have financing via my bank.

I went to a dealership outside of chicago for a 2015 accord coupe. i meade a deal on it for 17,100 and had to get my check and bring it back monday because i went in Saturday to look and negotiate and the credit union stops cutting checks at 12. after shaking hands with the salesmen and sales manager i said id go get my downpayment to hold the car and we parted ways. THEN they chase us just after we leave the building and say no need to get the money we’ll hold your car for you till monday i think that’s great we shake hands again and i go home. monday comes around and i get a text that they sold the car to someone else and they got a deposit for it, so im pissed and go looking online at more cars and what not but later on the same night i get a call from them and they ask when i’m gonna be in to buy the car and so im confused and we go back and forth but i said i wanted to bring it to a mechanic to be looked at but they said they won’t let me and i can only have someone come to look at it. what do we say about this? i haven’t gone to get it and dont know if i should

Hi there I am just starting out in month two and was just wondering how this pay plan stacks up to what might be out there? Thanks in advance everyone!

Advisor position offers a base salary of $4,000 per month, paid in two installments of $2,000 on the 15th and the last day of each month. Bonus eligibility begins once an advisor averages 13 units delivered. Advisors can earn additional compensation through unit bonuses, F&I point bonuses, and product performance objectives.

Unit Bonuses (Non-Retroactive): Advisors earn $300 per unit for 14–17.5 units, $400 per unit for 18–20.5 units, and $500 per unit for 21 or more units.

F&I Point Bonuses: Advisors who deliver a minimum of 13 units can earn $250 for 4 points, $500 for 5 points, or $750 for 6 points. These bonuses are not stackable.

Bonus Qualification Requirements: Advisors must accumulate 3 points in F&I to qualify for bonuses. Vehicle Service Contracts (VSC) earn 1 point at 40%, 2 points at 44%, and 3 points at 48%. GAP must reach 50% of eligible deals for 1 point, maintenance must reach 25% for 1 point, and ancillary products must reach 10% for 1 point.

Bonuses are paid on the 10th of each month for objectives earned during the prior month. Bonuses paid before a deal is fully funded are considered wage advances and may be charged back if the deal does not sell or is unwound. Unit bonuses are not retroactive.

When multiple Advisors are involved in a transaction, the unit count is split equally between the first advisor and the delivering advisor, as determined by the sales manager. Management may offer additional discretionary bonuses, which will be included in the total monthly compensation calculation. Any changes to the pay plan must be made in writing and signed by the General Manager.

Long story short, 2024 CPO Audi, with 2 year left of its 4 year mfr warranty, and 1 year of CPO warranty. only 7000 miles on the odometer. Been in service for 5 months straight after having the car for about 10 days. i feel like it's 'unfixable' at this point. can I legally initiate lemon law for it?

I financed a car years ago through Santander. Recently I sold it to a dealership for $6000 my payoff amount was $4100 and change, the dealership handled the remaining payoff and sent them a ach for the total payoff amount. Yesterday the dealership said they received the title and I could come get the remainder they owed me. On Santanders website tho I still owe the 4100. I called them and they said they haven’t received any money and kept explaining to me that they won’t sent the title until it’s paid off but I seem the title in the dealerships hand and the envelope from Santander that they mailed it in. Santander is no help and when I call I get hung up on. This is my first car and my first time selling it. Anyone have any ideas?

I should clarify that I am not a car salesman. But I have noticed that car buying social media content creators have been becoming very popular recently. And they are giving tips and showing how to get a great deal at a dealership.

Do you think these content creators have made the average person better at buying cars? Or have you salespeople not noticed a difference?

Hi everyone! I’m planning to buy a new car in Massachusetts and would appreciate some advice.

Credit scores: TransUnion 770, Equifax 770, Experian 749

I’m considering Toyota Financial Services and DCU.
For those who recently got their first auto loan with a similar credit profile, what APR did you receive in 2025 or 2026? Did you get a good rate through DCU, a credit union, or the dealership?

I’d appreciate any real-world experiences or suggestions. Thanks!