Proud owner of this gorgeous 2024 Cooper S 2-door.
I am not exaggerating when I say I’ve wanted one of these cars for 25 years. Been driving a 2014 minivan for a decade, and finally can comfortably afford it. Plus, our last kid graduates next year so practicality is no longer a concern.
I had been planning to really start shopping in December, but she popped up locally and checked damn near every box. I knew what needed to be done.
Just need to figure out her name!

I took my zesty to the tail of the dragon this last weekend and not only am I extremely impressed, but I cannot wait to go back with better brakes and rotors. i also hit the foothills, and the extra moonshiner 28!
I had an AMAZINGGGG time. The mini handles so much better than I anticipated and I got the wheels to bark at me at a corner or two. Honestly this thing was such a hit everyone complimented the color and it was so hot to hear the turbo spool up the entire 11 miles. Wow.

No regrets!

Huge respect to the Cooper…that handling literally felt like driving on Rainbow Road.. I loved it!🏎️💨

after a streak of bad luck for 6 months with my 2027 cooper, I made the switch to the Countryman I’d been eyeing all along. The comfort, drive, and space are perfection. So thrilled to stay in the MINI community!

Have owned several BMW,s over past 10 years. Now wanting to buy a used Mini 20-22 F56 S Model. I am a long drive to a mini dealer (80 miles) And no independent euro mechanics around that I know about. Looking for a 3rd car for fun drive and to shine on. Give your good experience over the years you have owned yours So I have positive vibes towards this car.

Guess you can watch amazon prime in your car.

Sigh... Guess I need to specify that you CAN ONLY watch video while PARKED.

My side mirrors are peeling (2019 f60) and I was thinking of sanding it and spray painting it with a black base coat, and adding sparkle color shift on it. Thoughts?

I want to get this info out to anyone whos willing to listen so I can save absolutely anybody I can from going through what I did.

I made the mistake in April of buying a Bootmod3 tune for my F56 Cooper S, I used the OTS 93 octane map without being aware of the problems it will cause. I used it for around 3 months without issue until XHP released their TCU tune for the 6 speed Aisin. I flashed stage 2 on July 3rd and by July 4th I had lost compression.

Why did I blow my engine? Because the BM3 OTS maps target insanely high boost and is only PARTIALLY kept in check by the EGS limiter, which XHP removed. With that limiter being removed my tune started targeting 25+ PSI. For context, at stock a 11:1 CR Cooper S B48/b46 will run 8-10 PSI of boost.

Remember when I said partially? That was on purpose, the BM3 OTS tunes even with a stock transmission tune will overshoot boost at spool and during shifts. I logged the tune on my engine for a short while just to see what it was running, and I discovered the engine spiking boost of 20-23 PSI on shifts and spool, insanely dangerous on a Cooper S engine on pump gas. Not only that, the boost curve in general is really bad, overshoots at spool, and tapers really fast in the mid range where you actually want the power.

The boost control isnt the only part of the tune with a problem though, the rated octane for the different OTS maps are basically wishful thinking from BM3. At WOT on the 93 octane tune was pulling around -6 degrees of timing and experiencing a knock event, almost every pull. If you were on the 91 tune running 91 Id suspect the same thing probably would happen.

Im on a JB4 now and it makes better power up top, and doesnt overboost like BM3 does. Kinda crazy that BM3 makes a ECU tune worse than a piggyback for the same car. Thats my rant, I just would hope to save anyone else from making the choices I did and end up with a 5k+ repair bill.

Just threw a set of spacers on the Clubman JCW (13mm front/15mm rear), and while it definitely looks better, it also definitely needs to get dropped a bit. Been looking at AST ASTLS-19-075 as well as H&R 28790-5, but can’t seem to find definitive answers on the actual drop for this car. It sounds like with the 10mm lower factory height, the AST should give about 25mm front/15mm rear. I spoke with someone at ECS who said the H&R set would drop 20mm front/15mm rear, HOWEVER Google is telling me that the H&R set is specifically for the JCW, and the drop would be 30mm/25mm. Does anyone have experience with either of these sets, or can someone confirm these figures? I’m mainly concerned about keeping the daily drivability of the car, and not having issues with most speed bumps if possible. Also are new bump stops required for either of these, and what additional hardware is needed (stretch bolts etc.)?

Went for a spirited ride up to Canyon lake in AZ.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/CqCppG4kQqZ9sRek6

About 10 miles outside the lake it is curves and turns that fold on each other. The damn car is amazing for stuff like this. it holds the yellow line like my old slot car AFX cars did as a kid. What fun!!

I’ve had her for a year and I don’t think I could ever own another car . Why are minis so addictive

Very proud to say I'm joining the club !

Welcome Blue Steel (f60 countryman se all4) to the family! Clapton (f55 cooper s) will watch out for you!

I’ve been looking at Mini Roadsters as they’re very reasonable at around 2.5k with VERY low mileage (sub 80k usually)

The road tax on petrol ones is £200 a year, however, on the diesel models, it’s £35. I could look at a sport model too.

As for years, I understand the 2011-2013 are the go karty feel ones, however, there’s some 2014-15s around the same price, do you definitely lose that feel?

Ultimately, I’m wondering if I could get a diesel Mini roadster either 2013 or 2015 and it still be as fun as a petrol one of those same years?

Thank you!

Hey everyone,

I’m currently having the in-tank fuel pump assembly worked on for my 2005 MINI Cooper S (R53), and the shop is telling me something that doesn't seem right.

They are claiming that the 90-degree black elbow fitting with the yellow sliding lock (Photo 1) is actually for an R56, not an R53.
Instead, they showed me a straight quick-disconnect connector attached to a rigid metal guide rod (Photo 2) and tried to tell me that’s what an R50/R53 uses.

From my understanding:
1. The 90° elbow with the yellow slider lock is the factory Gen 1 (R50/R52/R53) siphon line fitting that clicks directly into the fuel filter housing inside the saddle tank.
2. The straight connector with the metal support stay is from a Gen 2 (R56).

Can anyone verify this? Is the 90° elbow with the yellow clip 100% correct for a 2005 R53 fuel pump setup?

Hey everyone,

I have a 2012 MINI Cooper S LCI (N18, Chilli Pack, 6-speed manual, Right-Hand Drive) located in South Africa.

The Problem:
When I bought the car, the lower bumper reverse lights and fog lights did not work at all. I found out the bulbs were entirely missing. I decided to install LED T15 replacements (Red and White). However, they still don't illuminate.

Coding Issues:
I am attempting to code the FRM module using NCS Expert and NCS Dummy (following a custom configuration for RHD/Manual/LED lines).

Even though I am following the correct protocol:

1. Reading with CODIERDATEN_LESEN
2. Modifying the FSW_PSW.TRCfile and saving it as FSW_PSW.MAN
3. Writing back using SG_CODIEREN
4. Note: I am already using Revtor's Expert Profile with manipulation enabled.

The symptoms:
The job finishes successfully, but the lights still do not work. When I cycle the ignition and do a fresh read (CODIERDATEN_LESEN) of the module, all my custom coding changes are gone and have reverted back to default. It's like the FRM is refusing to commit the .MAN file to its permanent memory.

Has anyone experienced an FRM module successfully accepting a code job but instantly reverting? Is this a sign of a failing FRM3 chip, a corrupt trace file, or is there a specific LCI master option I'm missing?

Any advice on getting these changes to stick or troubleshooting the physical circuit would be highly appreciated!

I’ve seen some pretty bad engine mounts, but never one this bad to where it’s worn down the aluminum section

So my grandfather was a mechanic for over 40 years, and he taught me how to work on cars. I know a thing or two, and I can pretty much do everything myself except pull a transmission or an engine.

I recently checked my brakes and noticed that my rear passenger-side brakes were pretty worn down. They weren’t at the point where I needed to change them immediately, so I figured I’d take care of them the following weekend since I didn’t have time that day.

Well as I was driving yesterday this warning popped up on the dashboard and the brake light came on.
I’m assuming the car is basically telling me “YOU NEED BRAKES ASSHOLE!”😂😂

Can anyone confirm?