I bought it for the old tin but it came with extras. So many mysteries, what are 1/4 Grafs, No. M1 and No 3 threads? Also, regarding the parts, seems a tumbler, a sear, 4 springs of one type and one a little different. The springs are sort of like the springs for a frizzen but not quite. Looking for info if anyone has any.

While many shooters instinctively choke up close to the rear sight making the notch appear large and open, which can help with leading moving targets but forces you to juggle multiple alignment variables at once my preferred style for precision range work is to weld my cheek far back against the steel or brass butt plate. Increasing this eye relief makes the iron sights appear much finer and naturally locks in your rear alignment, eliminating the constant micro-management of the sights themselves. This removes a variable from the equation, allowing you to focus entirely on elevation and driving the center post directly onto the target with maximum repeatability.

I really hope this might help you. It sure helped me

I enjoy casting my own bullets and want to add a mould for my brown bess but have had no luck finding a Lyman or similar quality mould in stock. Can anyone suggest an online retailer that may have one in stock? Thanks.

After getting skunked in rifle season for three years running since I moved to PA, I gave muzzleloader season a try. Glad I did! I bought this older CVA Hawken 50cal percussion rifle expressly for this purpose but was unable to make the season last year.

After sighting it in this year, tragedy struck when I broke the threads off the old powder drum while reassembling it after cleaning. I got a new drum just in time and, after drilling and tapping it for the nipple (a first for me and kind of nerve-wracking), I got out in the woods and got it done.

Hunting load: .490 lead round ball, .010 lubed patch, 70gr H777. Achieved full penetration of the chest cavity on a front-facing shot at 30yds. Very little meat damage, missed the gut cavity, and narrowly avoided the tenderloin as it exited her back. Couldn't ask for better performance.

I've always enjoyed shooting black powder guns recreationally but I feel the connection runs deeper now that they've put food on my table. I think muzzleloader season may be my main effort going forward!

Special thanks to my improvised sling, the haversack I made from an old bank bag, the $12 flea market powder horn, and the beautiful possibles bag my wife got me for my birthday!

This recoil calculator says the baker rifle would kick harder than a 50 bmg my bullshit meter is going off the charts

Finished my barrel for my Traditions Kentucky rifle. Though a little browning solution did get inside but not very deep. Hopefully it'll be ok. Ignore the WD40. I coated with boiled linseed oil after 5 coats of Dangler's browning solution

My friend recently was given this japanese gun. We think its an ozutsu. We were wanting to see if anyone might have any knowledge on this. We aren't really sure what exactly it is, how old it is, and possible value.

I usually shoot real black powder in my percussion Hawken, but due shortages I could only get 777. I was shooting 250gr sabots and a really thick ring of crud started building up in the breech of my gun. So much that it actually blocked the flash hole and the gun wouldn't go off. I had to break it up with a cleaning brush and then flush it with water. I've shot hundreds of rounds with real black powder and never had a problem.

Anyone else have this problem?

Edit: only 4 shots.

Updated with more pics without doxing myself quite so bad.

Kind gentlemen in Smokey Valley Muzzleloaders taught me everything I know.

.625 caliber .60 ball and leather patching with bees wax.

Love the brass. Traditional brown, though synthetic. Sights adjustable. Probably have to file down. I'll also polish the lock internals.

Anybody else dabble in flint napping? This bad boy takes 1" suckers.

Open ramrod channel for easier cleaning.

I don't need the sword bayonet.

Cheers.

Hi all I was wondering where in Canada I can find a replacement lock plate assembly for a traditions Kentucky rifle as mine has broke and am in search of a new one can also be from the states just not sure if it can be shipped from state side as it is a gun part so if anyone could answer that as well it would be great

does anyone try to make and shoot clay bullets ? maybe someone made clay round balls , maybe someone try to shoot a ceramic slingshot bullets out of muzzleloader , maybe you made and shoot a clay conical , maybe you know a historical sources about clay amo

24 hours of milling, seemed to burn smoother and maybe hotter? Definitely felt denser than my fire pit charcoal variety.

Ive got a few black powder revolvers from Pietta, and they use #10 caps.

However I saw some stuff online saying it might be worth it to switch the nipples to #11, and use that. This would be nice because they'd use the same caps as my rifle.

So, 2 questions really:

1: is it worth it in any way to make the change?

2: if so, where can I buy #11 nipples that fit?

I have sourced a 1/4 inch pounds/N-M torque wrench that should work for a prototype it might have too high of a inch pounds it can go up to 200 in-lbs

Love the original finish that Cimarron/Uberti does. Something about it just interests me more than the factory new look

Hiii guys, how dangerous is shooting and reloading the muzzleloader, assuming you follow all the correct procedures? What are the chances of the musket going off by itself while you are ramming the ball down? Assuming I'm using the high grade black powders on the market like Swiss or Schutzen, and balls are lubed with historic receipes such as bees wax and mutton tallow, and follow the correct musket drill(replacing the spent cap last), could the musket still accidentally discharge while Im reloading the next shot?

New to real black powder and was wondering where to get it. Everyone is out online and the shops I found dont ship. The one in Texas I did find has a $75 hazmat fee.

A revolver that runs clean and has no cap jams makes for a great day.

I was able to test Arbutus Black Powder in a couple of my guns, and while the velocity wasn't the best I was happy with how it ran cleanest in my 36 Navy. With 25 grains of 3F and a .375 ball it was consistently right at ~1070fps accuracy was good at 25 yards freehand, and I was able to shoot 6 full cylinders without stopping to clean fouling or pick out cap jams. Caps stayed mostly intact and attached to the nipple, typically they blast into oblivion!

In my .58 Hawken 100 grains 2F produced a sedated ~1520fps with a 280 grain ball, but the benchmark for Swiss was only ~1460fps.

In the .54 Mortimer Flintlock 100 grains 2F produced ~1620 fps with a 230 grain ball, and Swiss benchmarked at ~1540 fps.

I didn't use my usual chronograph, but an old Chrony F1, I typically test with my Magnetospeed V3 chronograph but had no way to mount it on my pistol. I'm curious to recheck the rifle velocities with my usual setup. Was limited to the 25 yard range today so no point in putting the rifles on paper.